The notes look interesting.
Thread: Cilice by Euphorium Brooklyn
Eau De Parfum
Country of Origin: United States
Fragrance Family: Woody Oriental
CILICE by Euphorium Brooklyn is sourced from the finest rare oils, tinctures and absolutes using the traditional euphoria komodo process. Handcrafted in Brooklyn, NY. CILICE features incense, beeswax, sweet balsam, wounded wood and leather accord.
Euphorium Brooklyn reimagines Victorian-era perfumery. Based on historical detail, fiction and non-fiction merge in this strange tale of three perfumers from the 1860′s. CILICE is the first chapter of this journey. Perfumer Monsieur Etienne Chevreuil created an immersive art form he called, “Tableaux Olfactif ” in which he would perfume an empty salon to recreate a specific environment and scene that would unfold over time and be told by scent and scent alone.
With CILICE, Etienne sought to capture and convey the sensuality of the environment and intensity of emotion when a young nun is encountered in her cloistered cell. An intimate and ecstatic moment is observed as she becomes transcendent.
“Velvet curtains, crisp linen, dusty gilt, crumbling plaster and parchment are exalted to a subtle perfume by warm shafts of sunlight. As fragrant tears are drawn from the wounds of ancient Agarwood, Benzoin and Olibanum trees, the Cilice releases a purer self that transcends her suffering. Bound tight by soft leather, a note of rusted metal sinks into deeper notes of warm skin and animal musk to discipline the flesh and release the soul. Her sweet release, an ecstatic moment of extreme emotion and sensation is captured in the deepest memory of scent. A child of the little flower, I now know her Ecstasy of Devotion…I am at once both soothed and intrigued by the dry air that carries in its memory a myriad of fragrant notes that weave an exquisite tapestry of incense, wax, wood and leather. Patiently crafted by countless wisps of rich incense, the patina of time is lifted by the soft, effusive light of sweet beeswax candles. Something darker, both sensual and primitive, compels a deeper breath.”
– Perfumer Etienne Chevreuil. The Ecstasy of Devotion (1856)
Benzoin, Labdanum, Frankincense, Elemi, Leather, Beeswax, Angelica, Cistus, Clove, Honey, Papyrus, Cloister Liquor, Ambergris, Oud, Cedar, Coumarin, Birch Tar, Castoreum
Okay, so that's their vision - a little over the top for me.
Now how does this hold up as a scent. What's cloister liquor? I think they're referring to some liqueur nuns made using some almond paste (marzipan). Obviously more nun fascination here.
When first applied (by the way this is an oil) you get a very nice blend with the frankincense just floating over the top with a nice smokiness. The fun starts in about 15 minutes as the scent begins to get absorbed into the skin. The absorption rates seem to be different for each of the notes. You will be able, at one time or another to experience all the notes listed. There's this slow, take- your- time evolution of this scent that is so beguiling. Pop in, Pop out - that's what these notes do during the entire time, never leaving you with a dull moment.
Sillage is perfect, it's there, but you won't offend or knock anyone down in passing. How about all day longevity with a heavenly morning after scent. Like great sex, it doesn't end after the climax. Cilice lives on longer than the day of application. Not just because you can smell it, but because you'll be thinking about it. There's a lot more going on here than mere scent.
I'm imagining most experiences with Cilice to be quite varied, but most will be shaking their heads after the experience. More profound than scent itself, Cilice moves slightly into a transcendental form, reaching into your soul. Presenting you with new thoughts and ideas. Even transporting you to bygone eras. I never knew smell could do those things. Thank you Cilice for giving me such a wonderful new experience.
Cilice is a scent made for aficionados of the art of perfume. If you like the style of Maai and Cologne Reloaded by Bogue Profumo, there's a good chance you'll appreciate and enjoy Cilice. Sold only at Twisted Lily - to the best of my knowledge.They offer it in two sizes. A 15ml bottle for $65.00 and a 30ml bottle for $120.00 Cilice smells like it would cost 2-3 times more. Heck 15ml is all you need. I love these Brooklyn newcomers offering us small sizes so we can all afford to own some.
Hey Paris, France - Look out for Brooklyn, NY. We just learned about Brooklyn Perfume Company's new unbelievable Oud, and now we have Cilice from Euphorium Brooklyn. Maybe Brooklyn is the new Paris. Since Guerlain has thrown in the towel on the art - I'm so glad someone still believes in it.
Last edited by thebeck; 24th February 2015 at 08:22 PM.
The notes look interesting.
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Thank you for the review! I'm so happy you like how it works over time. I took a long time playing with how to make note "reappear" and am super-duper glad you noticed! "Cloister Liqueur" I wanted to get the scent of a cloister liqueur that I smelled as a little kid in Germany. The secret sauce in that liqueur ( also in Benedictine and Absinthe ) was Angelica Root ( I'm using a small/ safe amount! ). You are so right with the 15ml decant. Ha! Yes, we really want to have an easy to "entry" to the collection and we all know how sad the last spritz of a 0.7ml tester is.......
Last edited by Euphorium Brooklyn; 24th February 2015 at 10:08 PM.
The notes look pretty good.
Hoping to get to Twisted Lily this weekend and try this one! Sounds fantastic. Brooklyn stand up!!!
Thanks for the info. What are the dominant notes?
My favorites in no particular order:
Vintage Antaeus, Vintage Bel Ami, Puredistance M, Vetiver Extraordinaire, Tauer L'Air du Desert Marocain, MDCI Invasion Barbare, Morabito Or Black, Geranium Pour Monsieur, Avignon
By the way I just heard Euphorium Brooklyn has two other scents coming soon. One is called WALD, and has notes of ( Forest Needles, Artemisia Syrup, Smoke, Balsam and Forest Floor Accord ) due out in March at Twisted Lily and another called USAR with notes of ( Indonesian Citrus, Oriental and Earthy Accord ) due out in April.
I have high hopes for WALD. Sure this is a crowded field for sure considering the notes. Why would I look forward to another FOREST SCENT?
Norne by Slumberhouse - too cloying and morphs into nasty
Winter by Dasein - just way too Los Angeles - don't get me wrong, I love L.A. since I spent my first 45 years there.
Forest Walk by Sonoma Scent Studio - has a ton on positive reviews, but I found it fleeting and disappeared more rapidly than it should
So for me, even though Forest scents are abundant - none really fulfill my soul. So I'm curious to see if WALD will.
Ordered 15ml bottle today. Will try and review once received.
The notes fascinated me when I first saw them. Spoke via email to a very nice staffer there about it. I purchased the 15ml bottle. With an oil it should last quite a while. Also, a sample of Wald is on the way. This is my first experience with these nice folks and it won't be the last.
Not my circus, not my monkeys.
Not my circus, not my monkeys.
WALD is looking so enticing that I am about to blind buy the 15mL bottle. Has anyone tried it? Can they share their thoughts?
The bottle and label design are just smashing, right up my alley.
Huh, got samples of both of their creations when I ordered my samples of BPC's stuff from Twisted Lily. I'll have to give them a go when I'm done testing the others.
WALD - So WALD has a totally different note structure than Cilice, but they somehow smell very close to me. It's like Guerlainade or Tauerade. There's this common base smell that permeates both Cilice and WALD. I was expecting more forest needles and forest floor accord. What I got in the beginning was Cilice taken down a notch or two. Not as strong, not as tenacious or long lasting. The forest notes come into play during the dry down, and I prefer to have my forest up front. Overall WALD is a disappointment for me. Still love Cilice.
Twisted Lily are very fast. I received Cilice today plus a sample of Wald.
@thebeck-I agree that no one note dominates, but the frankincense(I think) seems to drift in and out.
Cilice is perfectly mixed melange of darker notes, smoke and boozy spice. Haven't been wearing it long enough to get the full drydown. This scent is definitely a dabber. No spray nozzles here. This is a wonderful scent. Definitely sample first though. Its not for everyone.(IMHO)
Wald is very green and is a scent that has some commonality with those of O'Driu (that dry herbal essence). Its nice but its composition is not on par with Cilice
The drydown is amber/honey/mild cloves(on me anyway) and does indeed last 24hrs. First rate fragrance.
Last edited by trex57; 7th March 2015 at 10:54 PM.
Not my circus, not my monkeys.
A nice post up at Ca Flueure Bon with some of the background to CILICE and the work I'm doing with Euphorium Brooklyn ( also a draw for free Frags.! ):
Last edited by Euphorium Brooklyn; 9th March 2015 at 04:45 PM. Reason: typo
Thanks thebeck! Not that I need yet another frag I must try but I trust your judgement
What a great idea to follow the journey of one tear of frankincense through that labrynth a la Rube Goldberg! To answer your question, "Is this the machinery used?". no. Beyond the reality contained in each bottle, Euphorium Brooklyn, its perfumers and perfumes is a fictional world for the perfume obsessed.
So, I'm wearing cilice for the first time now. Immediately it reminds me of winter woods by SSS. It has that ambery, cade smokiness that I associate with that fragrance. Maybe less sweet. This is just my very first few minutes with it though.
i'm wearing this as i type, and it reminds me of a musk-substitution oil i have from a uk seller.
that's what i smell the most: dark musk, labdanum, and frankincense.
nice and dirty at the same time.
and mild, surprisingly.
USAR - So far Cilice stands out over WALD and USAR. It's interesting the company released three frags within weeks of each other. Starting with the best one and getting progressively not as good. All three scent s have a similar base. The base so complementing to Cilice's other notes it makes it fantastic.
Cilice - Fantastic mesmerizing scent
WALD - Not enough forest and too similar to Cilice, but no where near as good
USAR - Goes on easy but turns funky, and not in a good way - by mid-day I wanted to wash it off
After being so over joyed with Cilice, it saddens me to say, I am less than thrilled with WALD and USAR.
To Stephen Dirkes - I know you tend to personalize reviews of your scents. Just remember I'm only one opinion, and they'll be many others that will enjoy WALD and USAR. Just not me. You are offering something to the art of perfumery, and I still look forward to sampling any new scents you offer in the future. Keep up the hard work.
Last edited by thebeck; 23rd March 2015 at 05:55 PM.
I've tried Cilice a couple times now, and the name is definitely fitting...
The opening is both awesome and daunting, Cilice hits you full force with it's entire array of notes, producing a complex cacophony that reminds me a bit of a Borneo oud oil, it's both sunny and bright, dark and powerful at the same time. It's one of the few frags I've tried that made me smile right at first sniff and go looking up the price on the net...
However, as Cilice dries down a couple of powerful synthetics dominate and make this very cilice-like. The mid/base of this perfume smells a lot like Nasomatto Duro, there is a ton of iso-e super and whatever that aromachemical is that reminds some folks of floor polish. And it is strong and unrelenting, it's spikes dig into my nose and make me suffer. The dark incensy vibe is also somewhat reminiscent of Puredistance Black, but a much more roughed-up, unrefined and synthetic-smelling version. As time goes on the drydown of Cilice and Duro converge to become very similar. I am wearing a bit of Duro on another spot now to compare, and Cilice makes Duro seem somewhat restrained, it is a real beast of a fragrance!
So while I enjoy the opening I do not enjoy the drydown and after an hour or so I'm ready to scrub it off, but this is easier said then done... Cilice is rather tenacious and it's not easy to remove it's hooks from your skin. This seems typical of many Niche brands, it's imaginative and beautiful in the opening but depends on powerful woody-amber aromachemicals for the base, which makes it an automatic no-go for me... My personal preference is for natural smelling frags, I can even handle iso-e in small quantities, but if I can smell it from the opening it's used in far too high of a concentration for me. Some people are going to really love this frag though, it's really very good, just not for me.
Thank you for the feedback! and yes, OF COURSE I take reviews personally (Ha!) It's still really great to hear what you think, even if it's not flattering. As it's all a strange and personal journey putting a frag. together, it's huge to learn how it works for others and what intentions of mine worked (or not) and what unintended effects were produced along the way. Thank you for the consideration and I will have a new fragrance launch every month this year, so there will be several more faves, not-faves and hopefully some surprises!
I very seldom write perfume reviews but I own several, mostly niche. To provide a little background I probably own 50+ bottles with my favorites being deep, dark and mysterious. Anyway, while doing some research on CB I hate perfume I came across Brooklyn Euphorium(BE). I like to try perfumes made in the United States versus my typical French style of fragrance, but i digress. BE struck my fancy with a mysterious story about cloistered nuns and dirty things. I love when a company links a fragrance to a story, even if the story is totally fiction. So I ordered a sample of Cilice from Twisted Lilly. They included a free sample of USAR, which was very nice of them.
I tried Cilice first. My immediate reaction was that it reminded me of Fetish from Roja or Hard Leather by LM perfumes. It has this dirty sex, leather and kinky vibe to it. It is strong and unabashed but with minimal sillage. It smells much more expensive than it is which is nice for a change. I noticed that it develops and changes as it warms on your skin. I have worn oils before and this has a similar progression, depth and warmth to it. I think all in all it's an excellent fragrance. It's different, in a good way. I don't think you'll run into too many people that will be wearing it, not yet at least. It's not like Santal 33 that everyone in SoHo wears and I smell it at every turn. It's unique and difficult to describe in individual notes and accords. I think it will be well received by fans of the dark side of fragrances. My only advice to the perfumers would be to endure any criticism and resist the temptation to re-formulate the fragrance to cut cost as time goes on and don't sell out to one of the big nameless companies that ruin fragrances(cough: Estee Lauder). I think your really on to something. Keep up the good work!!!
I will follow up with a review of USAR when I have the time.
Last edited by tcadaniel; 28th March 2015 at 04:55 PM.