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  1. #1
    MrP
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    Default Agarwood oil thread. (Part 1)

    Taha -

    The vanillin aspect of Borneos is very soothing to me. Not at all feminine. It is a kind of smoothness that acts as a bridge across all the various little pungent notes of these oils. I LOVE it, so much so that it makes me tempted to do some experiments with some of my cheap oud and some vanilla absolute. This smoothness is epitomized in the 3000, though UNS had a select Borneo with this aroma as well. These good Borneos - they are sublime. Where are the UNS quality oils, though? Is Oriscent the only source??
    Last edited by furrypine; 12th March 2016 at 09:27 AM.

  2. #2
    MrP
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    Assam Kinam - I got a sniff or two. Basically very much like Amit's oud from last year but with a dose of the Royal Kinam mixed in (that's what I would have guessed it was, if not for Ensar's ads). Top note is some of the Royal Kinam blended about 50:50 with Amit's oud; basenote is almost pure RKSons DS oud to my nose. Sadly, I only tried it twice - I may be way off and it may have changed by now.

  3. #3

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    Borneo Select is one of my favorite oils, in large measure because of the vanilla note. The blend of the ethereal topnote, glissande sweetness of vanilla and soft woodiness is a delicate and graceful combination. I don't smell any vanilla in Borneo Kinam. To me it smells quite strongly of cinnamon (underneath the whistle top note)- it's emphasis is more on spices; to me it's slightly warmer and hums in a lower register.
    Please let us know how you vanilla/oud experiment works out, Mr. P.
    I have a sample of Oudhasi's Amber Oudh Attar. Although it's predominently a blend of oud and spices, there's a hint of vanilla which makes it purr.
    I don't know of any other supplier that has great Borneo oils. Incidentally, there's a delay in shipping Uns oils so it may be a while before his new stock is reviewed.

  4. #4
    MrP
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    Thanks, Bluemoon! That UNS Borneo select was FANTASTIC. I would say it could hold a candle to the Borneo 3000. If I had any idea at the time what a sweet oil that was, well, I would have found a way to get it.

    Agreed about the Borneo Kinam - very, very different. If I had to guess (and I would indeed be guessing) I would think it is a different species of agarwood altogether. It just smells like completely different molecules.

    I think i posted on how surprising it was to me that that oil was a Borneo, but given the range of aromas I have seen from Papua New Guinea (broadly speaking, including Irian Jaya, Merauke and Oriscent's Green Papua) I guess I shouldn't be surprised!

  5. #5

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    Thank you MrP for your insight on Assam Kinam. I must admit Bluemoon, the way you can describe Ouds is just wow! Sheer talent!

  6. #6

  7. #7
    evogel's Avatar
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    I was thinking that the "new" UNS oils were leftovers or re-acquisitions of the IJ Select and Merauke that Ibrihim previously carried.
    Both were very nice oils!

  8. #8
    evogel's Avatar
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    UNS had another lower priced Borneo that came in their sample set. It was called East Borneo #80 and while it wasn't as scrumptious as the Borneo Select, I still thought it was a nice, solid specimen.
    Oudselect has some Indonesian oil that are interesting. A kind soul sent me some samples and I hope to review them soon.
    The "new" board is quite timely.

  9. #9
    MrP
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    Yeah... I crave two things right now:

    Some diverse smooth Borneos in the style of 3000, UNS, at a variety of levels and qualities. The Borneo Bloom is a nice oil, but not the same style at all - there is a (not quite) chocolate and (not quite) vanilla smoothness - a sort of
    dessert like richness but not smelling like candy. I have 2 batches of chips
    like this.

    Also, some of those wild peppery muddy merauke oil. The UNS was ok but to muddled for my taste - I have some rougher meraukes that I prefer. They are more focused, simpler - vaguely patchouli and mud like but there are these separate notes that ring out clearly.

    Now what I reall want are some of these at the old WNF and Magnifincense prices.

  10. #10

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    I posted this over in the oudh fighting topic....but maybe I should ask this here....

    Are there certain ouds that smell terrible on your skin? some reason Borneo's all smell like gasoline on me! on cloth its sweet creamy and wonderful....but as soon as any of them touch my skin it instanly smells like I was just fillin up my car and spilled gasoline all over myself.

    does anyone else have this problem with certain ouds? no others do that to me. although some smell and progress better on cloth.

    BTW this is pretty exciting...I dont know why I never tested a borneo on cloth...I have every other oudh...no idea why I never did the Borneo I just ruled it out.....anyway its like I am smelling a borneo for the first time! its incredible! I am excited

  11. #11

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    Oh very good idea MrP! I did my share of watering down the oud thread, and I missed the input of the 'regulars'. I will continue to post about my oud layering experiments on the other thread and use this thread to discuss/read about pure ouds. Carry on...

  12. #12
    MrP
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    There are some that definitely change in aroma on skin vs. clothes. I am trying to remember - oh yeah - the Royal Kinam. If I applied this to my neck or collar, the smell really bugged me - it was like nagarmotha oil - not so oud like (it has gotten better with age though!). If I applied it on a piece of silver jewelry - a bracelet - it smelled STUPENDOUS and lasted several days. Really weird, I guess.

    Good Borneos are my absolute favorites, hands down.

  13. #13

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    It sounds like I would really like a good Borneo oud. Smooth, sweet, vanillan...oh yeah!

    I am sampling Taha's Borneo Bloom (all by itself) this morning, but I realize it is not a top of the line Borneo.

  14. #14
    MrP
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    divinemama - I wanted to express myself but not make you feel bad. You have always been positive, respectful, kind. There really SHOULD be a place for sustained focus on scent layering, using natural materials to enhance and adjust commercial fragrances, and oud is a perfect substance for this purpose.

  15. #15
    MrP
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    The Bloom is very nice but is different - not sure how it ranks in terms of quality (Taha is very humble, which is nice). It is, I think, a great deal - surprisingly inexpensive really.

    It has a strong resemblance to an oud oil from Oudline called "Malinau" which is similar to but different from the UNS and Borneo 3000 oils. While the UNS /3000 were dense, sweet, heavy and smoooooooooth, the malinau and Bloom are swampier (in a great way), still have some of that vanilla smoothness; to my nose the Bloom has an additional distinct note of pipe tobacco. It's a tobacco smell I have ONLY smelled when people were smoking pipes - there is something they add to those sweet pipe tobacco mixtures that makes it incense-like - sweet, rich, absolutely pleasant (unlike cigar or cigarette smoke). My wife in particular likes that note in oud.

  16. #16

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    No worries Mr P. I do not feel bad at all. I agree with you completely. I will continue to post about my Amouage, etc and oud experiments on the other thread and post about oud oils here. I am actually relieved that someone is addressing the changing tone of the thread and making positive steps to make everyone here happy. I embrace this change.

    Thanks so much for your input on the Bloom. Maybe I will have courage to post later how I find its progression on my skin. :wink:

  17. #17

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    hmmmm when i wore Borneo bloom on its own, I got a vague sweetness at the start, and it soon dried down to a "wet earth" aroma. It reminded me of the times when I was in the millitary. I had to trudge through jungles right after a thunderstorm and the scent is pretty similar, except that the bitter earthniess is tempered somewhat by a lingering sweetness. I take it that this lingering sweetness is the vanillin note?

  18. #18

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    Uns' Borneo No 1 is very similar to Oriscent's Borneo Kinam. It shares the same ethereal top note, warm spicy cinnamon note, a barely perceptible hint of mustiness, and has a similar slightly thick consistency. It smells somewhat thinner than the Oriscent oil, though the cinnamon note in the Uns oil is a bit sharper- it tickles my nose the same way pepper does. Like Borneo Kinam, it's an alto. There's no vanilla, yet it's very sweet and buoyant.

  19. #19

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    cck- The next time you're in the supermarket you could check out the baking or spice section and smell the vanilla that's used for baking.

    I didn't smell wet earth in Borneo Bloom but in it's mid stages it had a strong smell of musty woods to my nose.

  20. #20

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    bluemoon, is the sweetness in the Borneo Kinam and Uns Borneo No 1 more of a honey note, if not vanilla?

  21. #21

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    that is what I am wearing today Borneo bloom...I love it on cloth! sweet creamy and earthy all in one! its nice on cloth.

    I have that on my shoulder of my shirt...another borneo on my other shoulder....cambodhi atteq on one arm ...the gaoline smelling same borneo bliss on the other arm....so I can smell the same 2 side by side on cloth and skin....ASAQ aged smoked cambodhi on my shirt...and some on my neck...oh and maylay royal on my body...let me tell ya I have one HUGE agar aura going on right now! kind of a waste having so much on...I just hope my incense comes in the mail today....I bought some japanese jinkoh sticks to hold me over till I get some chips and a burner and charcoal.....I hope it even resembles the oil.....

  22. #22
    MrP
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    That's quite an array. Each gust of wind brings you a different scent. Sounds nice. That Malay Royale smelled nice to me but I only smelled a tad. I wish I knew what you meant about the gasoline scent - I don't connect with that description, but I've smelled most of the oils you describe, so I wonder what the note is you are referring to. Coming up with a common language for scent is no small task.

  23. #23

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    I mentioned in an earlier post...for some reason ALL borneos I have tried....turn into a gasoline smell on my skin...i dont know why no other oud does that....so I put some on my shirt and some on my arm....my shirt smells fantastic! my arm smells like I spilled gasoline on it. I have no idea why it does that with my skin.

    anyone else have that problem with any other kind of oud?

  24. #24
    MrP
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    Ok - what % of the ouds in your collection show some crystallization or wax precipitation?

    I would say 2 out of 20 in my collection, and the very cheapest oils.

  25. #25

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    Divinemama: It's the kind of "leathery" sweetness experienced when nuzzling in a cat's fur combined with the drier sweetness of mellow woods.

  26. #26

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    MrP- only 1 has "crystallized"- RK's new King Oud which I just received. After putting it under a lightbulb for a few hours the "crystallization" disappeared but some brown sediment settled to the bottom of the bottle. Amit said the crystallization was caused by cold temperatures (experienced in shipment?), but other oils that I've refrigerated never crystallized, clouded or gummed up.

  27. #27

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    Dred- Areej's Kamboudi Maliki has a faint note of gasoline, and Oriscent's Burmese Kinam is saturated with it.

  28. #28

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    Thank you bluemoon, your description of Borneo Kinam and Uns Borneo No 1's sweetness sounds wonderful.

    I do not know if Agaraura's Borneo Bloom is a mild oud or if I am just getting used to pure oud. I put a generous amount on each forearm and I just a lovely woody scent. Your musty woods description fits. Perhaps his next Borneo will be closer to Borneo Kinam and UNS Borneo?

    BTW, I love the smell of gasoline, perhaps I should try some Burmese Kinam. Unfortunately, neither Borneo Kinam or Burmese Kinam are included in Oriscent's current sampler.

  29. #29
    MrP
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    The Borneo Bloom is kind of mild - very much so in comparison to Lao or Hindi ouds that are more shocking to the senses. As far as Borneos go, the bloom has a little more edge to it than many I have smelled (note I have only smelled 4 or 5 decent Borneo oils in my life, so I am no expert). The UNS were smoother - denser, stayed closer to the skin. Again, there is a certain tangible tobacco note in the Bloom I have not encountered in the other oils which to me strengthens its initial impact a bit. Taha says it is something he has seen in oils he has sampled that were labeled as originating from central Borneo.

  30. #30

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    It looks like Burmese Kinam is no longer even offered on Oriscents site.

    I get a slight gasoline like note in the opening of Agaraura's Thai oil. Is that the note you get from Burmese Kinam, bluemoon? Or from your Borneo's on your skin, dred?




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