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  1. #2041

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    Not a regional thing at all - I know my oud well enough to eliminate that possibility, but that’s a good guess! And yes, the assumption is the oil is plantation in the absence of assertions or evidence to the contrary. Wild harvest... maybe. I am going to stick with my hypothesis that it’s about the maturity of the infection, and I would guess plantation oud would achieve this same scent if allowed to mature.
    What region is it from then? I’m curious to what it smells like! My favorites are Cambodians and Hindis right now but I’m not gonna lie I love the fruitiness of Thais especially the fruit from younger organic trees. I think on average most trees are allowed to be infected around 10 years of age with 1-2 years infection time. I’ve only ever smelled wild oud twice one was from Ensar and the other was AgarAssam’s Metei 2006. Both had wildly different scent profiles though.

  2. #2042

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    I bought some oud from Rising Phoenix (guy running it is a dime), but turns out I hate this tree product. It's 2015 Hindi oud if anyone wants it I have 2x 3ml for $80 a pop. I just want to get rid of it I don't like owning things that are never used.

  3. #2043
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    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    Hindi oud is the most challenging and funky of all the ouds. Depending on the producer it can have overtones of stinky feet, cheese, burnt notes, manure. Most definitely not an oud for novices. If you smelled a well distilled Vietnamese or Borneo oil, you would be feeling differently I suspect.
    Quote Originally Posted by stinkyriddle View Post
    Yeah this is spot on! Chinese, Cambodian and Thais are straight up beautiful. Zaza Zen is a great introduction to oud. Hindi’s are extremely challenging even when they’re done really well.
    Nope, this is spot off! Many generalize Hindi oils, and in fact every other region, based on the few they've smelled, then righting them all off, expecting the rest to be a certain way, or avoiding a region based on that; wrong. With no real thought I can name 10 Hindi oils that have zero to do with manure, barn, burnt, feet, cheese, fecal, or whatever. Furthermore, someone new to oud may love a cheesy, barny, feety, animalic one, while another who has known oud 50+ years may never like that type, or any other specific oil or profile.
    1. Agar Aura Nashila
    2. Agar Aura Chamkiela
    3. Agar Aura Shano Shokat
    4. Agar Aura Hindustan 1
    5. Agar Aura Basic Hindi
    6. Agar Aura ZBH, etc.
    7. Ensar Oud Assam 3000
    8. Ensar Oud Isa
    9. Ensar Oud Yoshi, etc.
    10. Imperial Oud Bahadur
    11. Imperial Oud Shah Jahan
    12. Several I've smelled from Agarwood Assam and at least 5 from Tajul Bakshi @ Assam Aromas, etc.

  4. #2044

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Looks like you are experiencing the very Zenith of agarwood oils, pearl. I am not blessed with the broad experience that you have. Fortunately you are here to set us all straight. I agree that in the luxury oud market anything goes as far as an oil from a particular region. That doesn’t surprise me. In my limited experience with something closer to the bottom end of the market, the Hindi ouds tend to be the most fermented and stinky. Bad luck I guess. I feel like this is the case with some of the samples I have sniffed from better vendors - nothing kicks the barn like a Hindi oud. You haven’t experience this at all?

  5. #2045
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    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    Fortunately you are here to set us all straight.
    That's funny

    My point is about generalizing region, it's better to consider the individual oil by looking at the notes. I've smelled barn, fermented, etc. oils and some were Hindi. It's not about which end of the market, some oils I listed were >$1k/3g and the ones from Assam Aromas were $360-380/tola (~12g).

  6. #2046

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Ok. In my experience the Hindi ouds kick the barn like no other region. Again I ask you: does this differ from your experience? I believe the answer is yes

    So now I have to reconcile this incorrect experience with the true nature of agarwood as revealed by you. I have come to guess that maybe Aquilaria agallocha does some funny stuff when fermented compared to crassna, malaccensis, etc.. no doubt this is way off, and I await my schooling! It also occurred to me that maybe there is a tradition of producing certain notes through fermentation to appeal to the Middle Eastern market, and these notes become associated with Hindi oud. I’m dwelling on this because my experience is pretty clear-cut as far as this goes and I’m trying to figure out what the cause might be if it’s not inherent to the region. One other thing: I have experience just as much funk in other regions but it’s a different kind of funk. In the agarwood oil that I have the funky ones that are not Hindi don’t really have any of that barn and leather note, they have more of a stagnant water swampy type of fermented note. And then some others go kind of cheesy. I have smelled swampy and cheesy from all regions including Vietnam and Cambodia which I often (erroneously?) think of is being associated with sweeter ouds. Actually I have also smelled the barn note in agarwood from Bangladesh as well.

  7. #2047
    Super Member joe king's Avatar
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    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    Ok. In my experience the Hindi ouds kick the barn like no other region. Again I ask you: does this differ from your experience? I believe the answer is yes

    So now I have to reconcile this incorrect experience with the true nature of agarwood as revealed by you. I have come to guess that maybe Aquilaria agallocha does some funny stuff when fermented compared to crassna, malaccensis, etc.. no doubt this is way off, and I await my schooling! It also occurred to me that maybe there is a tradition of producing certain notes through fermentation to appeal to the Middle Eastern market, and these notes become associated with Hindi oud. I’m dwelling on this because my experience is pretty clear-cut as far as this goes and I’m trying to figure out what the cause might be if it’s not inherent to the region. One other thing: I have experience just as much funk in other regions but it’s a different kind of funk. In the agarwood oil that I have the funky ones that are not Hindi don’t really have any of that barn and leather note, they have more of a stagnant water swampy type of fermented note. And then some others go kind of cheesy. I have smelled swampy and cheesy from all regions including Vietnam and Cambodia which I often (erroneously?) think of is being associated with sweeter ouds. Actually I have also smelled the barn note in agarwood from Bangladesh as well.
    Mr.P my experience aligns very much with Pearls. In my opinion the barn note is more about distillation technique than region or species. For example I consider Feel Oud's 777 to be a barny oil with similar notes to what you would call hindi oils yet it is from a Crassna tree from Thailand. I would recommend sampling from a broad range and forgetting some common myths around oud smells per region.

  8. #2048
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    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    Ok. In my experience the Hindi ouds kick the barn like no other region. Again I ask you: does this differ from your experience? I believe the answer is yes

    So now I have to reconcile this incorrect experience with the true nature of agarwood as revealed by you.
    Mr.P the most barn, fermented oils I've smelled were IO's Sasong Sungsud, a Laotian, EO's Zachariyya, which IIRC was Burmese, one of EO's Chinese that I can't recall the name, and a private distiller Chinese. Would it be fair or correct for me to make a blanket statement that Laotian or Chinese oils are the most barn, fermented? I'm not trying to reconcile your experience, I believe you if you say the most barn oils you've smelled are Hindi . I want to dispel the generalization that makes many new to oud or never tried a Hindi avoid Hindi oils or feel like, as you said, Hindi oils are not for novices when the fact is Hindi oils can be sweet, lemony, and vanillic; skanky, fermented, and everything in between. It depends on the individual oil, not the region.

    Some say that Hindi wood that is barn, fermented inherently when heated exist, I can't challenge that, I can only say I've not smelled ANY wood that was that way when heated. They say Hindi wild wood is rare, so one that is barn, fermented when heated must be much more rare and with the number of barn, fermented oils, I'd have to say it's more about distillation/soak parameters than something inherent to ANY wood.

    It's also interesting that you say it may be something with Aquilaria Agallocha that's different from crassna, malaccensis, etc. I had a convo with a hunter friend about species and he said the trees aren't labelled and the hunters he knows don't speak Latin, they go in and indiscriminately harvest what's harvestable, then come out, clean and separate by grade at most. You may have read a wiki quote that said A. Agallocha has been found in India and assumed that any agarwood found in India is A. Agallocha. It's the equivalent of saying Valencia oranges were found in Florida then assuming all oranges found in Florida are Valencia; it's wrong. How do you know that the barn Hindis you smelled were not from crassna or any other species? Have you ever had any oil that the raw materials were verified to be a certain species, verified by DNA barcoding, cell and leaf morphology, etc.? If not, then it's just a guess. Dr. Rozi Mohamed one of the leading authorities on agarwood with nearly 100 published research studies and editor of the book Agarwood: Science behind the Fragrance has discussed ad nauseum the difficulty of species identification through scientific methods. Not to mention the exponential difficulty of being able to do it by visual indicators, which takes years of experience and familiarity with known and proven species as a reference and is still not an exacting process. We have some in the community who've never been in a jungle, never seen a standing agarwood tree, didn't see the wood used for distill, etc. yet they claim to be able to know the species from smelling the oil; huge bull manure. Poorly misinformed about agarwood to say the least and way overzealous about their abilities and knowledge based on the misinformation.

  9. #2049

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Eh doesn’t matter

  10. #2050

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Wearing two generous swipes of Feel Oud Bengal Royale today.
    It is very spice heavy with a base of pure hindi leather/barnyardy stank.
    The saffron and cumin up top are kept from ever becoming too sharp as the seem to be infused with a nice dark chocolate note (one which is supported by the chewy tobacco underneath.)
    When you first apply it you are almost knocked off your feet by a strong Laphroaig smoky/spicy quality which quickly vanishes into the more leathery base from which the spices pop as if seeds on a fire.
    Truly amazing.
    YT: Jess AndWesH

  11. #2051
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    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Zaza Zen by Ensar Oud. A very very enjoyable, easy-going cultivated Thai oud. I love it. It is also priced so well.
    Currently wearing: Bracken Man by Amouage

  12. #2052

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    For me my mukhallat of the day is Ward attar by Al Shareef. This is just an amazing blend - very primal and showcasing individual ingredients like saffron, rose, sandalwood and real musk while also being a very balanced blend. The oil goes through stages - balanced saffron shamama rose top, a very sweet and jam-like rose heart that emerges surprisingly; then the musk kicks in and creates a strange sweet harmony. This is great stuff - really impressive blend.

  13. #2053

    Default Re: What are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by Katatonia View Post
    LMK malay cola

    Wonderful dark oud incense.
    Wow I found this one at random ! I wish I kept some for myself lol !

  14. #2054

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    22F78B83-86D1-412D-93DF-C57C153A4821.jpg
    One oil that has to be experienced!

  15. #2055
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    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by kooolaid View Post
    22F78B83-86D1-412D-93DF-C57C153A4821.jpg
    One oil that has to be experienced!
    Oooh. Tell us more please
    Currently wearing: Sayat Nova by Bortnikoff

  16. #2056

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by oudaddict View Post
    Oooh. Tell us more please
    Typically like many Indian oils which have flooded the market, they have this one strong barnyard aroma which makes you think of a farm, slaughterhouse, or manure. The Burmese oils I have smelt in the past also had that barnyard smell. Then came AgarAura. Bhamo is sheer beauty in a bottle which has the piercing honey color of Hindustan 1 and the Oudiness of another beautiful oil from Laos called Keo. A mind altering and brain numbing oil. Simply stunning and beyond beautiful is Bhamo!

  17. #2057

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Today I have been sampling some imperial oud products. These guys really have some great oils, and their prices are not over the top. In spite of this, the most satisfying oil in my stash comes from Imperial oud. I haven’t sampled much of their current line but I always enjoy their super hoi an. I went with super hoi an on my left arm and a blend of rose oils on my right. Getting lovely wafts from both sides.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Imperial oud and Al Shareef have some very smooth Hindi and Assam types that lack the stench of over fermented oud. I have also heard many reports that a distiller named Tajul Bakshi is pretty much the premium Indian oud distiller, and he does this on a scale that allows for some economy. As a consequence, you are not going to be squeezed for $600 to get a decent bottle! Good prices that avoid the huge markup we see with the luxury niche resellers.

  18. #2058

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    Today I have been sampling some imperial oud products. These guys really have some great oils, and their prices are not over the top. In spite of this, the most satisfying oil in my stash comes from Imperial oud. I haven’t sampled much of their current line but I always enjoy their super hoi an. I went with super hoi an on my left arm and a blend of rose oils on my right. Getting lovely wafts from both sides.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Imperial oud and Al Shareef have some very smooth Hindi and Assam types that lack the stench of over fermented oud. I have also heard many reports that a distiller named Tajul Bakshi is pretty much the premium Indian oud distiller, and he does this on a scale that allows for some economy. As a consequence, you are not going to be squeezed for $600 to get a decent bottle! Good prices that avoid the huge markup we see with the luxury niche resellers.
    But the question is, is it wild or plantation? Plantation is understandable where they might not squeeze you a whole lot. Wild Indian wood is another story.

  19. #2059

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jcelello View Post
    Zaza Zen by Ensar Oud. A very very enjoyable, easy-going cultivated Thai oud. I love it. It is also priced so well.
    Man, just doing a full wearing of Zaza Zen right now and it’s blowing my mind that this a) is pure oud oil and b) is so cheap. This smells like a fantastic attar with a huge dose of oud in it. But I get so much incense and tobacco and raisins and honey and molasses with the tingly near-minty buzz in the top... it’s really a fantastic oud. This and Yusuf are the only two pure oils I’ve ever considered backing up. This one is no where near Yusuf (to me) but the price is just fantastic compared to the usual Ensar range.
    Currently wearing: Chypre Palatin by MDCI

  20. #2060
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    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Quote Originally Posted by Proust_Madeleine View Post
    Man, just doing a full wearing of Zaza Zen right now and it’s blowing my mind that this a) is pure oud oil and b) is so cheap. This smells like a fantastic attar with a huge dose of oud in it. But I get so much incense and tobacco and raisins and honey and molasses with the tingly near-minty buzz in the top... it’s really a fantastic oud. This and Yusuf are the only two pure oils I’ve ever considered backing up. This one is no where near Yusuf (to me) but the price is just fantastic compared to the usual Ensar range.
    Spot on my friend. For the price, this oil is a huge bargain. I enjoy wearing it so much.
    Currently wearing: Bracken Man by Amouage

  21. #2061

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    I am loving Junoon Leather by Rasai in the cold morning. One of the best oud/leather based fragrances.

  22. #2062

    Default Re: What Oud/Mukhallat are you wearing today?

    Oud Shibli by Ensar Oud. So sweet. Beautiful. Just the slightest barn kick left in it.
    Currently wearing: Chypre Palatin by MDCI




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