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  1. #31

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Final thoughts from me: really enjoyed Room1015, Unum, New Jul et Mad and a few others. Have lots of sniffing to do later...

  2. #32

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    At this Expo, does one have the chance to purchase bottles of new fragrances or not?
    I've been personally offered to buy bottles with a heavy discount - distributor's price, basically - from a brand, but I am not sure whether that would be officially allowed (I doubt that). I mean they don't have cash registers and stuff at the counters...

    - - - Updated - - -

    By the way also Rubini is a standout for me, there's something I really like in that fragrance they showcased.
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  3. #33
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by mumsy View Post
    I've tried the Chabaud line some time ago. There is a very nice fig one in that line.
    I have tried the entire line and felt that one was probably the best thing they did (along with the buttery Lait Concentré). Most of the line was truly awful though. There is a great tendency to sickening sweetness with many of the Chabaud offerings and that is a big "no-no" for me. My guess is folks that love their compositions super sugar candy sweet will enjoy them a lot more than I did.
    Last edited by drseid; 30th March 2015 at 10:40 AM.
    Current Top Ten:
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    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz)
    6) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    7) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    7) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
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    7) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie
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  4. #34

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by drseid View Post
    I have tried the entire line and felt that one was probably the best thing they did (along with the buttery Lait Concentré). Most of the line was truly awful though. There is a great tendency to sickening sweetness with many of the Chabaud offerings and that is a big "no-no" for me. My guess is folks that love their compositions super sugar candy sweet will enjoy them a lot more than I did.
    Nice if you like wearing biscuits and toffees. I thought their composition build was overall very good over the range but they were too quiet, soft and far, far too sweet. Might be designed for french young girls taste for all I know. My daughter liked them all but she's only just a teenager.
    The PONK club - gymnosium for perfumers (NOTE:- All club matters still on hold whilst I care for my dad now.)

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  5. #35
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by mumsy View Post
    I thought their composition build was overall very good over the range but they were too quiet, soft and far, far too sweet.
    Mumsy, where did you have a chance to try them - in the UK or in France?
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  6. #36

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Mumsy, where did you have a chance to try them - in the UK or in France?
    They were sent to me to assess a long time ago, but they originally came from France. I liked her work but the perfumes aromas weren't for me. I'm too old for such sweeties. I'm a green chypre sort. I did love the figgy one though. Like a fig grove in the sunshine.
    The PONK club - gymnosium for perfumers (NOTE:- All club matters still on hold whilst I care for my dad now.)

    Twitter - @PonkClub for regular twitter updates

    My Tincture list

    A perfumed life - Tinctures, perfumes, cordials, wines and ingredients
    Currently wearing: Charisma by Avon

  7. #37

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Hi everyone. OK, here we go. I'll try to be succinct.....(unlikely)

    Fist of all we had a fantastic weekend in Milan. There were six of us there and we have all been several times before but I must say that we really enjoyed Milan so much this time. The sun was shining and there just seemed to be a great atmosphere in Milan this weekend.

    So, Esxence. Well, I have a few things to say about it below but lets start with the fragrance. Bear in mind that there were around 160 exhibitors so you just have to target some and dip in where you can. I know that I will have completely missed a lot of great stuff.

    I have three absolute standouts (both in terms of the fragrances AND the people presenting them), and some honourable mentions. Here they are, just in the order that we discovered them;

    Masque Milano;

    Terrific! I am really blown away by this whole collection, and I also want to tell you that Alessandro Brun, co- founder and creative director, gave me a lot of time and he personally talked me through the whole collection one at a time. He understood that I was genuinely interested and he was informative and very pleasant in return. He gave me samples of the range. Favourites are Terralba and Russian Tea. Meeting him and discovering Masque fragrances was one of the highlights of my visit.

    Actually I need to dash for a while, be back later......

    - - - Updated - - -

    Hi again. Next;

    X - Ray Profumo. (The collection in it's new presentation seems to be called XRX Profumo). An oasis of FUN in a sea of snobbery. They are delightful! There seems to be little written about this brand. I don't know this, but I think that maybe the first launch didn't become that well known? They are being relaunched with a new presentation. But I tell you, the fragrances made us *smile*. They simply smelled great, and for me they stood out amongst some very sombre and serious collections. I think sometimes that we forget that above all perfume is meant to make you feel good! And this collection made my friend and I feel good. Ray Burns complete lack of pretension was so refreshing. Despite being very stylish, and handsome, and having a long history in a very chic business, he was fun, funny, and on the level. I didn't get the name of the woman that was working with him. I wish I had. She was lovely and she had lots to say about the fragrances. I'm looking forward to telling you more about these. And I can do that because they also gave us samples.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Jul et Mad;

    Beautiful, intelligent, and elegant. And the fragrances aren't bad either..........

    I was nearly done in when we decided that we had to stop at Jul et Mad, and I am so pleased that we did. We met both Julien and Madalina and they were charming and lovely. The fragrances are wonderful, elegant, very chic. I absolutely fell for Terrasse a St_Germain, on the spot, and my friend was crazy about one of the others ( I can't remember which one). They gave us each a "love dose" of our favourite, which is a beautifully presented little miniature. I must order samples of the others somewhere so that I can join in a chat about them.

    Honourable mentions to;

    Bruno Acampora. Lovely friendly women and very generous with their samples which were offered enthusiatically. (not a common occurrence I can tell you !) I can't say much about the fragrances yet but I am really looking forward to trying them at my leisure.

    Puredistance;
    Very helpful, and interested in customers. gave us lovely little sample sets and brochures which I much look forward to trying properly.

    Mark Buxton.
    Because my friends would kill me if I didn't mention him! I didn't have much time at his stand myself but two of my friends had met him before and were keen to visit his stand again. One of my friends has his whole collection except the new ones and she will definately get those too, and he is a laugh.

    Castle Forbes. The Scottish ones that I had never smelled! It turns out they stock them in a place about two miles from my house! Male grooming type. Old fashioned and gentlemanly. I really liked their Fougere, "1445" and I will buy it.

    Angelo Pregoni . An honourable mention for Mr Pregoni. I know, I know. Say what you like and yep there was an installation with meat and fish on it, and yep, there was a buzz in the cafe about him. But I can only say that I met him and he was very gentlemanly. He was talking me through his newer fragrances and the concepts behind them. Then the press came to film him and we had to skedaddle out of the frame, but he directed an assistant to continue to attend to us.

    More to come about the exhibition itself and someone else that I met.........



  8. #38
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Thanks for sharing your preliminary assessment of your time there. Appreciate it!
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  9. #39

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Thanks hednic. Very happy that you appreciate it!

  10. #40

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    OOOOOh so exciting. I can almost smell it. Deffo going in the diary for another time.
    The PONK club - gymnosium for perfumers (NOTE:- All club matters still on hold whilst I care for my dad now.)

    Twitter - @PonkClub for regular twitter updates

    My Tincture list

    A perfumed life - Tinctures, perfumes, cordials, wines and ingredients
    Currently wearing: Charisma by Avon

  11. #41
    Basenotes Junkie Mocha's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Thanks for this! I enjoyed reading it. And to think we can look forward to "more to come" as well.
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  12. #42

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    OK, here is the other bit.

    I missed iodine. She was there on a different day from me. I would have loved to have said hello, and I missed Basenotes, and Colin

    I missed UNUM. I do think that I saw the stand.

    I did meet Lucas briefly which was a pleasure. Some of you will remember the poster Lucasai? He is in the industry and he also has a blog called Chemist in the Bottle if you would like to read his reports.

    It was a fantastic experience and it was a privilege to be able to go, but here is the thing that you need to know. It wasn't all good. I don't want to give you the impression that it was perfume heaven and the be all and end all. The thing is that Exsence is a trade show. It's not a public event. It's a trade show which is open to the public for two days of it's run. If you have ever been at any kind of trade show you will know how it goes. It's very hard work for the exhibitors there, with long days, day after day, and it's usually costly to the company. They are there to promote their business. So, it's not that I don't understand or respect that. I do.

    There were four us at the exhibition, three women and a man. We split into two's. On arrival I have to admit it was actually really overwhelming. We later discovered that we had all felt that. One of the girls thought that she wouldn't be able to stay, although she did. (A glass of wine in the cafe helped her!) The show is massive. There were around 160 exhibitors there. The stands are quite close together and some of them are small, so if there were two people at the stand, maybe four on one of the bigger ones, it was mobbed. The space seemed quite dark with the stands being lit up spaces. There is quite an intense atmosphere. Some stands are more lit up than others and there were pockets where we were really hot. Too hot to approach a stand in a crush of people and lights. I was really interested to read iodine's post about her visit. I had much the same experience. There were people there who were so generous with their time and there were people who were so disinterested that they were rude. We were asked countless times if we had a shop and when we said no, some people visibly disengaged and that was the end of that. We were wearing visitors badges and some people clearly noticed that straight away and backed off.

    Samples were not willingly given, with some very notable exceptions like the companies I mentioned above. I'm not good at asking. I did ask a couple of times when I really liked something but it was quite embarrassing. It was actually really clear that they didn't want to give you them. Le Manufacture does four Colognes. I did ask for a sample of one of them and she gave me it, but my friend liked a different one and when she asked politely if she may have sample the woman said "sorry, no we prefer to keep them for our distributors". My friend actually challenged her that customers buy the product from the distributors, and the woman gave her the sample. But it was really cringeworthy and later my friend said that she wished that she hadn't bothered. It was clear with some that the client/customer, is the buyer or distrubutor buying product and not the person who will eventually buy and love the fragrance. This was not the case for all, as I said before. Masque and Jul et mad actually seemed to enjoy customer contact and Ray Burns and his partner in particular were really great. Oh, and another very honourable mention for the guy on Piguet who was a hoot and was very generous with my friend in her never ending search for the perfect Gardenia. And he also gave me some of their Oud which is lovely, even in an ocean of Oud.

    So, I understand about trade shows but the thing is, if the individual customer is not important and not welcome then why open the show to the public?

    In terms of fragrance, I told you what my standouts were and they are incredible, and also I missed a lot of stuff which would have been great, I'm sure. But my other general impression from the small selection that I saw and smelled (and I would be interested to hear what other folk found, because this is just my humble impression), is that there was a lot of gloomy stuff. Heavy stuff with strong synthetic woody bases. And also loads of tuberose. Lots of fragrances with tuberose and norlimbanol or something.

    So, there you have it. Please go if you can, but just be aware not to expect total nirvana. Now I'll shut up. Well nearly..... forgot to tell you need to register before you go and you will be sent an invitation. It's free. But the catalogue is 20 Euro, but I did buy one. Had to.

    Happy if anyone wants to disagree, or to ask anything.

  13. #43

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    thank you, foustie! it's great to hear both sides of the experience. and i appreciate everyone's reviews so far. they've been great to read.

  14. #44
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Foustie View Post
    So, I understand about trade shows but the thing is, if the individual customer is not important and not welcome then why open the show to the public?
    I'm sure a lot of people ask themselves that same question and wonder.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  15. #45

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Foustie, I'm impressed by the clarity and completeness of your report!!! Yes, too bad I wasn't in town Saturday and couldn't meet you!

    This was my fourth Esxence and I must say I've seen it getting worse every year.

    In terms of brands presented.The market has surely expanded (exploded?!) in these years and some niche brands have become"classic" and don't need attending a show to promote themselves and their new releases (well, Creed is always there ), but the increase in houses that have very little to say in the perfume world or grossly equate niche with blatant, tacky luxury has been impressive.

    In terms of glamour and snobbery. Both exhibitors- though it's more the Italian suppliers than the perfumers or owners themselves- in the years I've had very pleasant chats with Neela Vermeire, Ann Gerard, a lovely assistant to my personal perfumer-idol, Marc Antoine Corticchiato and some other passionate and expert people who could tell an amateur from a shop retailer in search of exclusivity and totally uncaring of notes or styles- and among people attending the show (but, alas, this is Milan, a certain degree of superficial glamour and money related snobbery are unavoidable in many contexts). It could sound I'm speaking out of sheer envy , but as Foustie said, guess who gets samples and attention between me and a fully made up, dressed up PR girl or boy?

    In terms of atmosphere- in the past Esxence was hosted at the Permanente and the Triennale, two of the most prestigious modern and contemporary art galleries in Milan. So, there was a certain "arty" feel about it. This year, the new location, in the brand newly rebuilt district of Porta Nuova, which I personally like a lot, stressed the glamour and stylish side of the event.

    In the end, yes, Foustie is right, with her question on the opening to normal people when the show it's aimed to other subjects.
    I guess it's OK to go there if you don't expect too much and you don't invest much time and energies in it. Otherwise it could be a big disappointment.
    "Your fragrance with a fume of iodine" L. Cohen
    Currently wearing: Patchouly by Etro

  16. #46

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Foustie View Post
    OK, here is the other bit.

    I missed iodine. She was there on a different day from me. I would have loved to have said hello, and I missed Basenotes, and Colin

    I missed UNUM. I do think that I saw the stand.

    I did meet Lucas briefly which was a pleasure. Some of you will remember the poster Lucasai? He is in the industry and he also has a blog called Chemist in the Bottle if you would like to read his reports.

    It was a fantastic experience and it was a privilege to be able to go, but here is the thing that you need to know. It wasn't all good. I don't want to give you the impression that it was perfume heaven and the be all and end all. The thing is that Exsence is a trade show. It's not a public event. It's a trade show which is open to the public for two days of it's run. If you have ever been at any kind of trade show you will know how it goes. It's very hard work for the exhibitors there, with long days, day after day, and it's usually costly to the company. They are there to promote their business. So, it's not that I don't understand or respect that. I do.

    There were four us at the exhibition, three women and a man. We split into two's. On arrival I have to admit it was actually really overwhelming. We later discovered that we had all felt that. One of the girls thought that she wouldn't be able to stay, although she did. (A glass of wine in the cafe helped her!) The show is massive. There were around 160 exhibitors there. The stands are quite close together and some of them are small, so if there were two people at the stand, maybe four on one of the bigger ones, it was mobbed. The space seemed quite dark with the stands being lit up spaces. There is quite an intense atmosphere. Some stands are more lit up than others and there were pockets where we were really hot. Too hot to approach a stand in a crush of people and lights. I was really interested to read iodine's post about her visit. I had much the same experience. There were people there who were so generous with their time and there were people who were so disinterested that they were rude. We were asked countless times if we had a shop and when we said no, some people visibly disengaged and that was the end of that. We were wearing visitors badges and some people clearly noticed that straight away and backed off.

    Samples were not willingly given, with some very notable exceptions like the companies I mentioned above. I'm not good at asking. I did ask a couple of times when I really liked something but it was quite embarrassing. It was actually really clear that they didn't want to give you them. Le Manufacture does four Colognes. I did ask for a sample of one of them and she gave me it, but my friend liked a different one and when she asked politely if she may have sample the woman said "sorry, no we prefer to keep them for our distributors". My friend actually challenged her that customers buy the product from the distributors, and the woman gave her the sample. But it was really cringeworthy and later my friend said that she wished that she hadn't bothered. It was clear with some that the client/customer, is the buyer or distrubutor buying product and not the person who will eventually buy and love the fragrance. This was not the case for all, as I said before. Masque and Jul et mad actually seemed to enjoy customer contact and Ray Burns and his partner in particular were really great. Oh, and another very honourable mention for the guy on Piguet who was a hoot and was very generous with my friend in her never ending search for the perfect Gardenia. And he also gave me some of their Oud which is lovely, even in an ocean of Oud.

    So, I understand about trade shows but the thing is, if the individual customer is not important and not welcome then why open the show to the public?

    In terms of fragrance, I told you what my standouts were and they are incredible, and also I missed a lot of stuff which would have been great, I'm sure. But my other general impression from the small selection that I saw and smelled (and I would be interested to hear what other folk found, because this is just my humble impression), is that there was a lot of gloomy stuff. Heavy stuff with strong synthetic woody bases. And also loads of tuberose. Lots of fragrances with tuberose and norlimbanol or something.

    So, there you have it. Please go if you can, but just be aware not to expect total nirvana. Now I'll shut up. Well nearly..... forgot to tell you need to register before you go and you will be sent an invitation. It's free. But the catalogue is 20 Euro, but I did buy one. Had to.

    Happy if anyone wants to disagree, or to ask anything.
    I agree with pretty much all that you wrote, this year I was there also in the 2 first days for press & business and the things weren't really different - the only difference was that there was less people and exhibitors weren't "tired" yet, so you had the chance to chat a bit more with them. But you did feel that the whole thing was about business and contracts. I met one exhibitor showcasing his new line, chatted a bit with him, quite enjoyed his 4 new scents; I saw a bunch of samples under his desk, he didn't offered me any although I made clear I was interested in writing about him (not that I am the NY Times, but still...), and I perfectly understand that samples cost (that's why I don't ask for them openly) ... but he didn't even want to give me his card because it was "for distributors"! Jesus, should I thank our Lord because words are still free then? I think the smarter exhibitors do understand it's important to be nice with press and normal visitors too, as in the end, they're the people which actually buy your fragrances and spread the word about them. And in fact some of them - especially the smaller ones - were uber generous and chatty. There's lots of brands which are really well distributed and still none cares about, precisely for their shit snobby public attitude.

    The guys at Unum which you missed Foustie - regardless of the quality of fragrances (which is great however), they were amazing people, easily among the nicest I've met there. When I went to their counter it was overcrowded with people but still one of the two guys guided me through the fragrances taking all the time it needed. He was really thoughtful, genuinely interested to speak with me, genuinely happy to hear I liked the scents. No samples there at that moment but I got them later on once the show ended.

    However I think that they open it to the public both because that way Esxence can "capitalize" on numbers of people so that it appears as an important "place to be" with lots of visitors... and above all because obviously the more exhibitors stay here, the more money Esxence earns, but I guess none would do a 4-days tradeshow for operators only - a couple of days would be more than enough for that, while adding two days means doubling the revenue.

    (By the way it was super easy to get a "press" badge, no checks and no verifications at all...)
    Last edited by Colin Maillard; 1st April 2015 at 08:55 AM.
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  17. #47

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    ^ Thanks for the reports, Foustie, Iodine and Colin Maillard. I enjoyed hearing about your experiences.
    Maybe I'll get there myself, one year ...

  18. #48

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    I'm sure a lot of people ask themselves that same question and wonder.
    We are not quite 'public'... we are 'freelance PR' and free to boot. In both senses of the word.

    Anyone going to a trade show and braving that lot is not just going out of indifference. That ought to be fairly obvious to those hosting stands who are rude. I have been at these things wearing the boots on the receiving end and it IS totally exhausting, but not enough of a reason to be abrasive. You never know who a potential client is by their looks.

    Thank you to all of you who have bothered to describe this so fully to us. If we haven't managed to be there, then we certainly have in our imagination because of these lovely descriptions. Really appreciated in full.
    Last edited by mumsy; 1st April 2015 at 09:51 AM.
    The PONK club - gymnosium for perfumers (NOTE:- All club matters still on hold whilst I care for my dad now.)

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  19. #49

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Morning! Thank you for your insights iodine and Colin. It's so important because you understand the cultural setting more than anyone else. I actually should have acknowledged that the kind and patient exhibitors that we met were speaking to us in English too which was very good of them. Some did ask if we had come all the way from Scotland just for the show and when we said that we had they were surprised and delighted. You know Colin it was in my mind that many sales will be made on the internet, PARTICULARLY for companies with limited distribution. People like yourself must be an important (and yes mumsy, free) resource for them. Do go *G*. Despite our honestly stated reservations it is a great experience and yes iodine the new exhibition centre is very impressive. BTW we had an amazing apartment right beside La Scala Opera with a roof terrace from where you could see the spires on the top of Duomo. If anyone is going you can give me a shout.

  20. #50
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by mumsy View Post
    We are not quite 'public'... we are 'freelance PR' and free to boot. In both senses of the word.

    Anyone going to a trade show and braving that lot is not just going out of indifference. That ought to be fairly obvious to those hosting stands who are rude. I have been at these things wearing the boots on the receiving end and it IS totally exhausting, but not enough of a reason to be abrasive. You never know who a potential client is by their looks.
    Well stated!
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.




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