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  1. #1

    Default Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Here we are again.

    A new edition of Esxence in a couple of weeks, a new (?!) looooong list of brands, (http://www.esxence.com/it/edizione2015/brand.php), super tacky or super pretentious websites that put immediately me off further inquiring, no clues what could be worth smelling... Can someone help me?
    If you have tips, if you're expecting some new interesting launches or you are aware of new, worth sniffing brands, please tell me, I'll report back.
    Thanks in advance
    "Your fragrance with a fume of iodine" L. Cohen
    Currently wearing: Patchouly by Etro

  2. #2
    Basenotes Member Roberto Duran's Gloves's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    The 2 new O'Driu releases Satyricon & Ven-de-ta should be well worth a sniff. Also, Vero's Rozy Exrait & Mortal Skin by Stephane Humbert Lucas
    Last edited by Roberto Duran's Gloves; 15th March 2015 at 12:47 PM.

  3. #3
    Dependent Francolino's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by iodine View Post
    Here we are again.

    A new edition of Esxence in a couple of weeks, a new (?!) looooong list of brands, (http://www.esxence.com/it/edizione2015/brand.php), super tacky or super pretentious websites that put immediately me off further inquiring, no clues what could be worth smelling... Can someone help me?
    If you have tips, if you're expecting some new interesting launches or you are aware of new, worth sniffing brands, please tell me, I'll report back.
    Thanks in advance
    with Fuffas Scent Lab, the list would be complete!|

  4. #4
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    You are fortunate that it is in your city. Just experience anything new from the houses you like and share your thoughts. I'm sure anything shared would be greatly appreciated.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    I'll be there too - nothing in particular makes me curious, it's just free and a bunch of subway stops away from my place.

    Nonetheless - pardon the "promotion" - a stand I'd suggest you in particular would be Rubini - I suggest that because it's totally new & obscure, so it may go unnoticed. I know the guy which owns it, he's a young and passionate shopkeeper which finally managed to launch this perfume (called "Fundamental"). I smelled a test on paper and it was really good, it has really little to do with niche trends - it's a really interesting sort of grapefruit/violet scent. Cristiano Canali (IFF) composed it. Not sure about the final result and how it smells on skin, but it may likely be worthy a sniff.
    Last edited by Colin Maillard; 15th March 2015 at 05:00 PM.
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  6. #6
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Maillard View Post
    I smelled a test on paper and it was really good, it has really little to do with niche trends - it's a really interesting sort of grapefruit/violent scent.
    I am a sucker for violent grapefruit scents.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    I am a sucker for violent grapefruit scents.
    LOL.

    Sorry, working day
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  8. #8

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    I'm going too! I've wanted to come over to Esxence for ages! Two of my friends were there a couple of years ago but I couldn't go at that time.

    I'm probably well behind you, Iodine and Colin, with things I want to try, because availability in the UK is nowhere as good as Italy. I will be heading to Masque, did I not see Bogue on the list? Don't see them now, O'Driu (although I'm not new to Pregoni, but would want to see the stand), Nicolai, Jul et Mad, Le Manufacture, Stephane Humbert Lucas, Titziana Terenzi. ........ and on and on.

    I would REALLY appreciate any tips if there are houses that you think we should be having a look at.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Is Vero Kern going to be there? I don't see her on the list of exhibitors either...?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Foustie View Post
    I'm going too! I've wanted to come over to Esxence for ages! Two of my friends were there a couple of years ago but I couldn't go at that time.

    I'm probably well behind you, Iodine and Colin, with things I want to try, because availability in the UK is nowhere as good as Italy. I will be heading to Masque, did I not see Bogue on the list? Don't see them now, O'Driu (although I'm not new to Pregoni, but would want to see the stand), Nicolai, Jul et Mad, Le Manufacture, Stephane Humbert Lucas, Titziana Terenzi. ........ and on and on.

    I would REALLY appreciate any tips if there are houses that you think we should be having a look at.
    Great, Foustie! Haven't decided when I'll be going, yet, but I'd love to meet you!

    Yes, many brands are currently distributed in Milan, or in Italy so- except for fragrances that haven't been released yet- I can easily test things in shops, in a quieter and less crowded atmosphere. My problem is that I easily lose my patience and my sense of smell grows quickly tired, so I can't just walk and smell everything!

    No Vero this year. I guess some houses are there only if they have new products and I think she has none.

    Hope tips and suggestions will keep coming!
    "Your fragrance with a fume of iodine" L. Cohen
    Currently wearing: Patchouly by Etro

  11. #11

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    So, after having gone through the whole list of brands, having browsed their websites- when available, having double checked here on BN and having given myself a certain set of rules (i.e.: avoiding all the brands I can easily find in regular shops; avoiding extra- luxury brands; avoiding brands whose website is IMO too tacky, or too pretentious or too obscure- I know I'm a bit selective, but my nose neurons are limited ) I've come to this test list:

    Pierre Guillaume Croisiere
    Le Galion
    Mendittorosa
    Miya Shinma
    Parfums Volnay
    Room 1015
    Maison Chabaud


    I'll be glad to hear any other suggestion, or any thought on these and others from you! Thanks
    "Your fragrance with a fume of iodine" L. Cohen
    Currently wearing: Patchouly by Etro

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by iodine View Post
    So, after having gone through the whole list of brands, having browsed their websites- when available, having double checked here on BN and having given myself a certain set of rules (i.e.: avoiding all the brands I can easily find in regular shops; avoiding extra- luxury brands; avoiding brands whose website is IMO too tacky, or too pretentious or too obscure- I know I'm a bit selective, but my nose neurons are limited ) I've come to this test list:

    Pierre Guillaume Croisiere
    Le Galion
    Mendittorosa
    Miya Shinma
    Parfums Volnay
    Room 1015
    Maison Chabaud


    I'll be glad to hear any other suggestion, or any thought on these and others from you! Thanks
    It will be interesting to hear if Le Galion has (somewhat) faithfully recreated their scents, or if they smell very modern.

    Room 1015 is getting hyped as something new and daring, but the notes sounds pretty standard to me. Looking forward to an honest assessment of the line!
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  13. #13

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Furrypine, ever heard of Malbrum? They appear to be Norwegian- they hint to a certain Norwegian joie de vivre....
    "Your fragrance with a fume of iodine" L. Cohen
    Currently wearing: Patchouly by Etro

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by iodine View Post
    Furrypine, ever heard of Malbrum? They appear to be Norwegian- they hint to a certain Norwegian joie de vivre....
    Never heard of the brand, thanks for telling me, I'll get them into the directory. None of the scents sound Norwegian-themed, but how could they be, we don't exactly have an abundance of native fragrant plants to be inspired by!

    If there's going to be a hint of Norwegian joie de vivre in the scents I think that's best expressed with a strong accord of Pilsner
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  15. #15
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by iodine View Post
    So, after having gone through the whole list of brands, having browsed their websites- when available, having double checked here on BN and having given myself a certain set of rules (i.e.: avoiding all the brands I can easily find in regular shops; avoiding extra- luxury brands; avoiding brands whose website is IMO too tacky, or too pretentious or too obscure- I know I'm a bit selective, but my nose neurons are limited ) I've come to this test list:

    I'll be glad to hear any other suggestion, or any thought on these and others from you! Thanks
    I am very familiar with these lines, in fact I have all the fragrances of these three lines in your list. I have owned Chabaud fragrances for over 12 years and don't believe anyone here on Basenotes has ever spoken about Chabaud except me, so I would love to hear what you think.

    Le Galion
    Parfums Volnay
    Maison Chabaud
    Last edited by hednic; 26th March 2015 at 05:43 AM.
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    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by iodine View Post
    Furrypine, ever heard of Malbrum? They appear to be Norwegian- they hint to a certain Norwegian joie de vivre....
    I've tried them — they were all done by Delphine Thierry. And, well, let's just say I'm interested to hear what others think. They all have a sort of gourmand / sweet / burned character to them.

    And have fun, everyone who's going!
    Last edited by deadidol; 25th March 2015 at 10:31 PM.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by iodine View Post
    So, after having gone through the whole list of brands, having browsed their websites- when available, having double checked here on BN and having given myself a certain set of rules (i.e.: avoiding all the brands I can easily find in regular shops; avoiding extra- luxury brands; avoiding brands whose website is IMO too tacky, or too pretentious or too obscure- I know I'm a bit selective, but my nose neurons are limited ) I've come to this test list:

    Pierre Guillaume Croisiere
    Le Galion
    Mendittorosa
    Miya Shinma
    Parfums Volnay
    Room 1015
    Maison Chabaud


    I'll be glad to hear any other suggestion, or any thought on these and others from you! Thanks
    Great list, Iodine! Can't wait to hear what you think of the different brands.

    So happy for all who are going to Esxence! Have a great time!
    No baiting/trolling. No insults. No politics. Read the Code of Conduct.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Le Galion perfumes are obnoxious, they did a terrible job with their "heritage". There's surely better exhibitors to give your time to.
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  19. #19

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    They all have a sort of gourmand / sweet / burned character to them.
    it must be the beer accord Furrypine refers to- though not Pilsner at all! . I'll check. Maybe. Very quickly.

    So, thanks to Colin, I'll check very quickly the obnoxious Galion (they are actually already distributed in Milan but I don't hang out at that particular shop) and see if some other inspiration comes.
    "Your fragrance with a fume of iodine" L. Cohen
    Currently wearing: Patchouly by Etro

  20. #20

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    I've tried the Chabaud line some time ago. There is a very nice fig one in that line.
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  21. #21

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Actually I have to admit the three new ones by Le Galion aren't that bad, especially an extrait I have not been told the name of. Cuir is nice but it kind of reminded me of Aigner's Black (some 20-eur mall's scent). The main flaw of all the three new ones is that they share a sort of cheap heaviness which I don't really enjoy, basically as in many low-profile designer perfumes.

    Other random stuff I've tested today: the new Etat Libre d'Orange (a negligible citrusy-sparkling scent), the three new Jul et Mad which as usual smell total quality, the new Unum line which is quite fascinating, terribly solid concept-wise and really well made (the Terenzi's produce them) yet somehow a bit trendy-ish (especially the incense scent); then Neela Vermeire's Pichola which is fine, and Jardin d'Ecrivains' new Marlowe, which as the rest of the line, is for me a kind of decently made and for me completely derivative boozy-musky-floral "dark" scent, a bit weak for the concept imho.
    Last edited by Colin Maillard; 27th March 2015 at 02:07 PM.
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  22. #22

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Maillard View Post
    Actually I have to admit the three new ones by Le Galion aren't that bad, especially an extrait I have not been told the name of. Cuir is nice but it kind of reminded me of Aigner's Black (some 20-eur mall's scent). The main flaw of all the three new ones is that they share a sort of cheap heaviness which I don't really enjoy, basically as in many low-profile designer perfumes...
    Three new ones from Le Galion? I'd be interested in checking them out.
    I'm not familiar with the original versions, but found the re-releases to be pretty decent (if a little conservative).
    Cheers for keeping us informed, Colin.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Good to know that there are three new Le Galion.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    So, in the end I went, this morning and in less than one hour I was outside.
    Some stands were already deserted (Le Galion, who was very generous with samples, a friend told me , and the Malbrum!); others were empty with people but full with photographers and film makers (Room 1015, Masque), so I skipped them. Some were run by very rude and scarcely knowing (Italian) people that didn't pay you much attention if you weren't a retailer or someone in the press (Chabaud, the distributors of Pierre Guillaume... Lui, Pierre, was in the background, submerged by people probably more interested in his business than in his fragrances). In a few stands there were nice people,very kind and informative with simple amateurs that didn't ooze money and glamour (Volnay, Rubini, Unum).
    The guy at the Osmotheque counter was super- nice and very generous with the precious strips imbued in vintage fragrances (this year I went with Aprčs L'Ondée, Liu, Chanel Cuir de Russie and the fabulous Tabac Blond).
    But- did I smell something good?
    Yes, the Unum line, as Colin Maillard promptely pointed out, is quite stunning.
    The Rubini is nice, fresh and unconventionally fruity.
    The Volnay are, I would say, correct but rather conventional. The lady at the counter- the owner of the brand, if my French assisted me well!- explained the history of the brand and told me: "all the perfumes here around descend from the ancestors of these fragrances". True, but in the end they all seemed a bit "deja- senti".
    The Minya Shinma- beautiful bottles and evocative Japanese names- all very watery, very pale, very fresh. I guess they are not intended for a Western or Near Eastern public.
    The Pierre Guillaume- hard to tell, the lady at the counter was quite irritating and knew almost nothing of the fragrances, except for the brief, she kept reading the notes from a brochure. I guess I lost her when I doubted I was smelling the fragrance she claimed... Anyway, the 4 fragrances due to be released now are overall quite nice and unusual, expecially Entre Ciel et Mer, really marine, almost fishy and Long Courier, a quirky vanilla. I gave a quick sniff to the other four, none striking me in particular.
    That's all.
    Thank you again for the tips.
    "Your fragrance with a fume of iodine" L. Cohen
    Currently wearing: Patchouly by Etro

  25. #25

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by iodine View Post
    The Pierre Guillaume- hard to tell, the lady at the counter was quite irritating and knew almost nothing of the fragrances, except for the brief, she kept reading the notes from a brochure. I guess I lost her when I doubted I was smelling the fragrance she claimed...
    I had the EXACT same feeling! Just to be polite and do a bit of conversation I tried to comment the fragrances while sniffing them, she looked at me as if I was a talking Muppet, just showing me that depressing brochure.

    Happy you like Unum and Rubini though, basically they're the nicest newcomers for me this year... and as you say, both adorable and humble people.

    Have you tried the new Jul et Mad's, and Angela Ciampagna line? I quite liked them both too.
    Last edited by Colin Maillard; 29th March 2015 at 05:12 PM.
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  26. #26
    Basenotes Member Roberto Duran's Gloves's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Anybody get to try the 4 new O'Driu releases ?

  27. #27

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Maillard View Post
    Have you tried the new Jul et Mad's, and Angela Ciampagna line? I quite liked them both too.
    Both fell in my very personal idiosyncratic ban-list: too expensive, J&M; with an offputting- to me- aesthetic the AC website...
    Glad you liked them, though!

    And O'Driu... I know I'm probably missing a lot, not having ever smelt his fragrances, I know I'm a cultural retrograde, but the mere appearance of him shrouded in a white blanket, this morning, just made me want to get out there faster... Sorry
    "Your fragrance with a fume of iodine" L. Cohen
    Currently wearing: Patchouly by Etro

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    Sounds like a very...mixed experience. Unum seems to be the name emerging from the dust as the brand to try! (They are listed for inclusion in the directory as we speak)
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  29. #29

    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    ugh. pregoni & his antics. i *wish* i didn't enjoy his fragrances (at least the newish ones) as much as i do. i'm most curious to hear reviews but can understand why folks would avoid him. i hope he left the chickens unmolested this year.

  30. #30
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

    At this Expo, does one have the chance to purchase bottles of new fragrances or not?
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    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.




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