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  1. #1

    Red face Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Hi everyone!

    I've posted a similar thread on the 'Female Fragrance Discussion' subforum.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/406...quired-tastes)

    To those that I haven't had the pleasure to make your acquaintance

    I'm an (independent) commercial perfumer working mostly for big brands and businesses. While I love my job, I am working on developing another page of my portfolio called 'acquired tastes'. So I'm looking to you, guys, experts in masculine fragrances for inspiration.

    What kind of perfume would you be intrigued by? What would tickle your curiosity?

    Please describe your wishes as elaborate as possible, something that engages all senses. Just 1 small request: I'd like a real challenge, meaning I will focus on unique blends only (no duplicates).

    When I'm ready I'll roll out the blends that turn out the best and I'll send around a sample envelope (1 for Europe and 1 for countries outside of Europe). Then I'd very much appreciate your brutal honest feedback.

    Whatcha think?

    Thank you for your time and input, much appreciated!
    Last edited by Irina; 24th May 2015 at 06:44 PM.
    @SomethingSmelly

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Nice project. I'm interested in a soapy perfume. Not in the "clean" sense but rather the kind of soap that you'd find in a hotel in Paris in the 1920ies. A soap that has been used several times before. Floral, with some dirty animal undertones. Slightly sweet, incency but fresh.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Ok, I will try this, with an older fragrance idea have personally fantasized about: a "barbershop-style" iris fragrance for men, like a crossover between YSL Rive Gauche pour Homme and Dior Homme (perhaps with hints of YSL L'Homme thrown in).

    Again, a fragrance centered around soap- in a cleaner, more-office like, even business-style, daytime/workplace wear style. But far more a good quality bar soap, both very clean and fresh, combined with a "floral scented shaving cream". A fragrance both dandified and very clean at the same time. A hint of almost laundry-like freshness during the opening, with a more complex and unsettling floral base, just edgy and dark enough to be masculine, yet again still remaining balanced and smooth enough to be office-appropriate. In fact, one of the most unusual, yet well-crafted and believable combinations between white collar understatement and bon vivant floral extravaganza (iris being perhaps successfully complemented by a hint of jasmine, orchid and other floral notes that have the gift to be unisex in a versatile way).

    Good luck and all the best for this fascinating project!
    Last edited by Ken_Russell; 24th May 2015 at 08:10 PM.

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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    I would be interested in a tropical masculine fruity scent blended well and incorporating some of the more exotic fruits found in the Amazon Basin and other tropical regions like; umbu, pitanga, physalis, ackee, guarana, jabuticaba, and aguajefruit.
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  5. #5

    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    A really well done green fragrance would be of interest to me.
    Good luck with your project.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    I was thinking recently about whether a perfume could be created entirely from roots.

    So the obvious ingredients would be Orris, Ginger and Vetiver, but what about top notes? do you need them? and there are probably hundreds of interesting but lesser known roots.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Iris and sandalwood with some subtle florals like jasmine in the heart. I'm thinking something not as plush as Bois de Iles - fewer florals overall and with a greater sandalwood focus in th base.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)


    Mangosteen


    Persicaria odorata

    If you can incorporate the above as the main notes.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  9. #9

    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    A line for men who grew up with flowers. A masculine jasmine, a masculine freesia, a masculine rose, a masculine narcissus, a masculine tuberose, and/or a masculine honeysuckle.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Back in the old days, when we were crazy kids we used to ride around in a buggy that reeked of beer, coconut car spray, cigarettes and gasoline. Combine those accords and you got yourself one hell of a fragrance!

    ...I'm completely serious.
    "If consequences dictate a course of action, than it doesn't matter what's right, it's only wrong if you get caught." MJK.
    Currently wearing: Grey Vetiver by Tom Ford

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    A dark tea based fragrance with iris, saffron, tobacco, birch wood and oud.


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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Quote Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post
    A really well done green fragrance would be of interest to me.
    Good luck with your project.
    I second this.

    Wish you all the best with your fascinating project.
    "just a smile would lighten everything"
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  13. #13
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Coconut and incense.

    Virgin Island Water meets Avignon
    Seasonal favorites:

    1. Xerjoff - Nio
    2. Creed - Aventus
    3. Tom Ford - Grey Vetiver
    4. The Different Company - De Bachmakov
    5. Dior - Homme Sport 2008
    6. Montale - Aoud Legacy
    7. Creed - Virgin Island Water
    8. by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
    9. Creed - Original Cologne
    10. Clive Christian - 1872 for Men

  14. #14

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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    I've been intrigued by the rotten citrus note that Christine Nagel has employed in Archive 69. it smells rotten and somewhat disgusting, but makes you want to go back and smell. i wonder if it can be incorporated in other contexts, for instance a big narcissus floral, or a leather.

    another thing I'd be interested in is the salty focaccia and figs of Womanity. Not sure it comes together there (there's a cookie note somewhere I don't like), but the hope is that this novel idea is perfectible.

    cacio

  15. #15

    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    1. edp strength, this is your first concern, as it doesn't matter how it smells as an edt, it will always smell better to BN if its an edp
    2. make the bottle heavy. nothing quite enhances the smell of flavorants emanating from your skin surface quite like the mass of the nonreactive glass it was in contact with 6 hours ago.
    3. keep it above $2/ml. otherwise it may cause cancer upon skin contact.
    4. oud
    5. incense
    6. more oud
    7. iris
    8. leather
    9. hell, just rebottle the Dior of your choice
    10. don't sell it through any popular online retailers, that will only mean there's a 98% probability that it's fake and has been stored in a warehouse built inconveniently in the crater of an active volcano with direct sunlight hitting the juice for 23 hours a day through an elaborate system of mirrors and fiber optic cables. Shipping will also be slow and the bottles will invariably leak.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    One thing the male community is missing is a really high quality sandalwood heavy scent that lasts.
    Make it creamy with some good warm spices (maybe a touch of cinnamon, nutmeg and coffee) and a touch of sweetness and you'd have a big winner here for sure.

    Really, the benchmark scents here are Santal Noble which has been reformulated, Tam Dao EDP which is OK but a bit floral for some, and Wonderwood which is peppery and a combination of cedar and other woods as well. My sandalwood of choice really is Costume National Homme which is pretty spicy, too spicy for many I'd imagine.
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  17. #17
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Quote Originally Posted by Lomaniac View Post
    1. edp strength, this is your first concern, as it doesn't matter how it smells as an edt, it will always smell better to BN if its an edp
    2. make the bottle heavy. nothing quite enhances the smell of flavorants emanating from your skin surface quite like the mass of the nonreactive glass it was in contact with 6 hours ago.
    3. keep it above $2/ml. otherwise it may cause cancer upon skin contact.
    4. oud
    5. incense
    6. more oud
    7. iris
    8. leather
    9. hell, just rebottle the Dior of your choice
    10. don't sell it through any popular online retailers, that will only mean there's a 98% probability that it's fake and has been stored in a warehouse built inconveniently in the crater of an active volcano with direct sunlight hitting the juice for 23 hours a day through an elaborate system of mirrors and fiber optic cables. Shipping will also be slow and the bottles will invariably leak.
    "If consequences dictate a course of action, than it doesn't matter what's right, it's only wrong if you get caught." MJK.
    Currently wearing: Grey Vetiver by Tom Ford

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Quote Originally Posted by silentrich View Post
    A dark tea based fragrance with iris, saffron, tobacco, birch wood and oud.
    Make it recognizably English Breakfast, please!
    Some favorites, Year released
    1. Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme, 2012
    2. Chanel Platinum Egoiste, 1993
    3. Dior Homme Intense, 2007
    4. Chanel Allure Homme, 1999
    5. Chanel Allure Homme Sport, 2004
    6. Dior Fahrenheit, 1988
    7. Chanel Egoiste, 1990

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Alternatively a floral woody scent that accurately recreates the aromas of 1st flush Darjeeling. Make sure to have some dry bitterness in there to approximate the effect of the tannins. It can have some green, bramble notes in the opening but the heart and base should be focused on the woody and white floral aspects. Keep citrus to a minimum - making it an Earl Grey tea is cheating.

    You can follow it up with the flanker , 2nd Flush which will have a more traditional black tea profile, but fresher. It should be lower pitched than 1st Flush and have some a subtle muscat accord and generally be more rounded and full bodied.

    Maybe after that target some Chinese black teas. These can go in a different direction with a focus on the wood, tobacco and leathery aspects.
    Last edited by Darjeeling; 25th May 2015 at 03:42 AM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    I grew up on a sugar cane plantation in South America.One of my most vivid olfactory memories involves freshly cut sugar cane. We used to sit under the shade amid freshly cut grass as well peeled our sugar cane. A warm breeze would pass over large irrigation channels before it visited us for a brief moment. The scent of the sugar cane juice, greenery of the sugar cane stalk and leaves, the smell of fresh water, and a background lightly diffused with freshly cut grass is what I remember. If only that could be reproduced in a bottle...

    Remove the sugar cane from the above scenario and add blancmange with nutmeg sprinkled on top. Thats the second bottle I would want.
    Current Top Picks:

    Dolce & Gabbana PH (Italy)
    Aoud Legacy
    Virgin Island Water
    Grey Vetiver
    Cedrat Enivrant
    Vetiver Fatal
    YSL L'Homme
    Lacoste Pour Homme

  21. #21

    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Wow, guys, I'm blown away!

    So many great and interesting ideas, you are truly an inspiration, thank you

    I'll get to work and please feel free to add on, the ideas are not limited to 1 per person

    I have a question:
    Quote Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post
    A really well done green fragrance would be of interest to me.
    What is the best you have encountered so far? And the worst? More descriptors to what constitutes 'green fragrance' to you would be most appreciated.

    p.s. I'm not planning on doing a line for sale in a (web)shop or something, this is a private project so when clients ask me for 'something outside of the box', I can let them smell them some examples based on something else than my own imagination.
    @SomethingSmelly

  22. #22

    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post

    I have a question:

    What is the best you have encountered so far? And the worst? More descriptors to what constitutes 'green fragrance' to you would be most appreciated.
    Hi Irina,

    I suggested a green fragrance because it seems to me a *relatively* un-explored genre, especially in masculine perfumery. Maybe because it doesn't have as wide an appeal as other styles.

    Some green fragrances I like are:

    Cartier's L'Heure Vertueuse for its super fresh, cut-grassiness. Basically an elaboration on cis 3 hexenol.
    Chanel's Bel Respiro - snappy, slightly plasticy galbanum scent that's overall more appealing to me than the current iteration of No.19.
    Trussardi's Trussardi - in vintage formulation. Again, galbanum but there's a lovely accord with coriander leaf that comes off as slightly urinous. It plays so nicely with the animalic labdanum base.

    Some green fragrances I tried recently that I didn't care for were Irish Leather and Italian Leather from Memo. It seems they tried to do a No.19, but the leather (IBQ dominated) was either too weak to notice, or so loud it was squeaking.

    A green incense could be interesting. Adoxal is also something that's been obsessing me slightly lately, and I can imagine it could push a green fragrance in a novel direction. I'm not a perfumer though, so these are just some naïve musings.

    Sounds like a fun project you've started!

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    I am fascinated by valerian root. It is sour but has a resinous quality. I think it could be worked into a woody masculine composition.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Something along the lines of a Chanel No. 5 but with a more masculine edge to it, if this is possible. Godspeed to you!

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Something fresh. Like being in a southern backyard. With a small touch of greenness. Didn't want to give any notes. Wanted to make this a real challenge. Best of luck on your endeavor.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Would it be possible to blend iso butil quinelone in such a fashion it won't smell "dated"? Somehow an updated version of a classic to be worn in a formal yet contemporary fashion: beards meet youngsters turning into hipsters without their flamboyance and effeteness (I don't mention flowers because Cuir de Russie comes to mind. As to the rest of leather-based fragrances, I love them and I also wear them, but they all smell Grandad to me. Dior Homme tries hard but it is too feminine, the Parfum is successful to some extent, but if I were a nose this is the project I'd work in).
    Sent telepathically from a mobile device located in the South Pole.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    A violet leaf & birch tar leather chypre, please. Or a significant upgrade over vintage Dior Fahrenheit.
    Currently wearing: 31 rue Cambon by Chanel

  28. #28

    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    Quote Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post
    Hi Irina,

    I suggested a green fragrance because it seems to me a *relatively* un-explored genre, especially in masculine perfumery. Maybe because it doesn't have as wide an appeal as other styles.

    Some green fragrances I like are:

    Cartier's L'Heure Vertueuse for its super fresh, cut-grassiness. Basically an elaboration on cis 3 hexenol.
    Chanel's Bel Respiro - snappy, slightly plasticy galbanum scent that's overall more appealing to me than the current iteration of No.19.
    Trussardi's Trussardi - in vintage formulation. Again, galbanum but there's a lovely accord with coriander leaf that comes off as slightly urinous. It plays so nicely with the animalic labdanum base.

    Some green fragrances I tried recently that I didn't care for were Irish Leather and Italian Leather from Memo. It seems they tried to do a No.19, but the leather (IBQ dominated) was either too weak to notice, or so loud it was squeaking.

    A green incense could be interesting. Adoxal is also something that's been obsessing me slightly lately, and I can imagine it could push a green fragrance in a novel direction. I'm not a perfumer though, so these are just some naïve musings.

    Sounds like a fun project you've started!
    Thank you so much for taking the time to explain in such depth, that really helps
    I will do my best!

    Quote Originally Posted by JDBIII View Post
    I am fascinated by valerian root. It is sour but has a resinous quality. I think it could be worked into a woody masculine composition.
    Sounds interesting. Valerian root essential oil is truly vile. Very very stinky. Thank you, the sour and resinous, that can surely be done!

    Quote Originally Posted by sjg3839 View Post
    Something fresh. Like being in a southern backyard. With a small touch of greenness. Didn't want to give any notes. Wanted to make this a real challenge. Best of luck on your endeavor.
    Wow this sounds beautifully 'personal'. Is this something from your smell memory?


    Quote Originally Posted by Pollux View Post
    Would it be possible to blend iso butil quinelone in such a fashion it won't smell "dated"? Somehow an updated version of a classic to be worn in a formal yet contemporary fashion: beards meet youngsters turning into hipsters without their flamboyance and effeteness (I don't mention flowers because Cuir de Russie comes to mind. As to the rest of leather-based fragrances, I love them and I also wear them, but they all smell Grandad to me. Dior Homme tries hard but it is too feminine, the Parfum is successful to some extent, but if I were a nose this is the project I'd work in).
    Sent telepathically from a mobile device located in the South Pole.
    The IBQ is probably not the only culprit in something smelling 'dated'. Dior Homme is a good example indeed, thank you, good starting point!

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    A violet leaf & birch tar leather chypre, please. Or a significant upgrade over vintage Dior Fahrenheit.
    Whooohaaa, that's a challenge! You sure know how to set the bar high

    Thanks again guys, you are the best

    (and keep them coming, please, I love reading your creative thoughts)
    @SomethingSmelly

  29. #29
    Basenotes Junkie hoschhti's Avatar
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    I wanted to post something but then I remembered your thread in the Lounge and thought it would be inappropriate.
    FAVOURITES:

    1. Dia Man
    2. Tawaf
    3. Skin Graft
    4. Vitrum
    5. Norne
    6. Hindu Kush

  30. #30
    Basenotes Member moharram's Avatar
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    Default Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    a green frag with dense egyptian basil oil and dark tea would be great.

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