Code of Conduct
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 58
  1. #1
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    279

    Default Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    From the FB page:

    Coming soon.

    Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Turkish rose, jasmine, oakmoss, orange blossom, castoreum, Africa Stone, carnation, patchouli, bitter orange and styrax.
    Currently wearing: Flor y Canto by Arquiste

  2. #2

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    So, I tried this a little while ago but because I didn't know any of the release information, I kept quiet on it. I wasn't nearly as into Anubis (or the other two) as other folks were, but generally speaking, I liked what she was doing and I hoped that whatever came next would be a little more to my speed. Salome really impressed me (I've worn it a few times now), and, although I had no idea what was even in it, I knocked together a few words for some close friends. So, here's my thoughts on this one:


    When I tried Anubis, I was admittedly bummed. I'd read so many good things about it and I loved the tropes that it was engaging, but ultimately, I didn’t feel that the composition had the structural sophistication to carry the scent. I ended my review by noting that even though I wasn’t quite on board with Anubis, I was looking forward to see what perfumer Liz Moores would do next. I’m glad I did.

    The perfectly named Salome is a monster. It’s like a deeper, more dramatic Muscs Koublai Khan that folds in aspect of Musc Tonkin, Fleur Poudrée de Musc, and Anubis and manages to pull it off perfectly. Given the references I just laid out, I’m sure you can already guess that this is animalic scent. It’s essentially a floral chypre with a salacious, lurid musk attached that knows the limits of decency and just how far it can push up against those limits. Expect grandiose, weighty floral notes suspended over a full, woody-chypre base. The musk splits the difference between MKK’s cozy civet and Musc Tonkin’s metallic-goat shimmer. Some of the more aggressive textures of Anubis — specifically the gasoline jasmine and the leathery motor oil — make cameo appearances, but they’re part of a larger, more cohesive whole. Salome hits some of the same melodramatic chords of the line’s other releases, but the form is more refined without coming off as overly coiffed. There's some textural action going on (meaning that it’s not a perfectly smooth blend — so prepare yourselves, purists), yet overall Salome is far more tucked in than that of Moores' past releases. Over time, the musks turns a bit scratchy-powder akin to Les Nereides’ Fleur Poudrée de Musc, but the carnality holds strong and the scent persists for long time. At points, it reminds me a little of Neil Morris’ Gotham. It’s less-rose driven than that one but Gotham’s excellent moodiness is all there. Adding this to her line was a smart move, and, although there are plenty of musky florals already buzzing around, there’s always room for something with this much sex and drama involved — and this has both in spades. A castoreum, gasoline, resinous, civety, lurid floral musk with the right amount of imperfection in all the right places. It’s dark, risky, and supremely moody — it’s fantastic.
    Last edited by deadidol; 24th June 2015 at 10:50 PM.

  3. #3
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Reside in McLean, Va., Manhattan NYC, Manuel Antonio Costa Rica & Búzios Brasil
    Posts
    274,027

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Quote Originally Posted by iris&oud View Post
    From the FB page:

    Coming soon.

    Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Turkish rose, jasmine, oakmoss, orange blossom, castoreum, Africa Stone, carnation, patchouli, bitter orange and styrax.
    Is this marketed as a woman's fragrance? Thanks.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  4. #4
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    13,222

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    A castoreum, gasoline, resinous, civety, lurid floral musk with the right amount of imperfection in all the right places. It’s dark, risky, and supremely moody
    Sold...But I'm on a pause right now from buying - damn, what a situation...grrrrrrr

  5. #5

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Is this marketed as a woman's fragrance? Thanks.
    Hednic, I don't think the line really subscribes to gender assignation — her other scents are all fairly flexible. Ultimately this is a floral scent, but it's a fairly butch floral. The jasmine is quite gasoline-like, and the overall feel of the scent is more aggressive / heavy than petal-like. It almost has a countercultural feel to it — a tad head-shoppy, I guess. The musk spins the whole thing a bit leathery as well — which I would assume is castoreum. All in all, I wouldn't say it's traditionally masculine — but it's not a pretty-pretty floral either.

    Quote Originally Posted by badarun View Post
    Sold...But I'm on a pause right now from buying - damn, what a situation...grrrrrrr
    Definitely sample ahead of time, but this reminds me quite a bit of a certain powdered champa scent that you'd sent me. Of course everyone's mileage may vary, but this one's going at the top of my "to-buy" list. I've been scouring eBay for an older MKK as of late, and when I tried this, I viewed it as good alternate. It doesn't smell like MKK per se, but it does "musky floral" really well. It's much heavier than MKK, I find.

  6. #6
    Basenotes Institution badarun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    13,222

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Definitely sample ahead of time, but this reminds me quite a bit of a certain powdered champa scent that you'd sent me. Of course everyone's mileage may vary, but this one's going at the top of my "to-buy" list. I've been scouring eBay for an older MKK as of late, and when I tried this, I viewed it as good alternate. It doesn't smell like MKK per se, but it does "musky floral" really well. It's much heavier than MKK, I find.
    Heavier shouldn't be a problem, we have a good winter out here, so it helps to have those around...Will see if I can sample before buying though.

  7. #7

    teardrop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The south of England
    Posts
    16,364
    Blog Entries
    3

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    deadidol, thanks for posting your thoughts on this one, it sounds right up my street. l love me a skanky floral with a head shop vibe!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  8. #8
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Reside in McLean, Va., Manhattan NYC, Manuel Antonio Costa Rica & Búzios Brasil
    Posts
    274,027

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Hednic, I don't think the line really subscribes to gender assignation — her other scents are all fairly flexible. Ultimately this is a floral scent, but it's a fairly butch floral. The jasmine is quite gasoline-like, and the overall feel of the scent is more aggressive / heavy than petal-like. It almost has a countercultural feel to it — a tad head-shoppy, I guess. The musk spins the whole thing a bit leathery as well — which I would assume is castoreum. All in all, I wouldn't say it's traditionally masculine — but it's not a pretty-pretty floral either.
    Thanks.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  9. #9
    Moderator

    cazaubon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Montréal and San Diego
    Posts
    5,158

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Sounds great, thanks for the review! I own and love Anubis and Tobacco Rose, so I look forward to smelling this one.

  10. #10
    Sound Scents
    drseid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Northern VA/DC Area
    Posts
    11,400

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Great write-up. This one unfortunately doesn't sound like something I will enjoy as I am not too keen on heavy civet and musk driven animalics. That said, I thought the perfumer did a pretty good job with Tobacco Rose, so I will at least give this one a sniff in future. Thanks for the heads' up!
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4)
    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6)
    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
    9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
    9) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie
    9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
    9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie

  11. #11
    Basenotes Plus
    Scarce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    3,995

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Sounds really intriguing, especially the addition of styrax to give it a darker character.

    The current version of Muscs Koublai Khan is far too tame from what I recall when it came out. Or perhaps I'm imagining things.

  12. #12

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Bangalore, Hyderabad
    Posts
    364

    Default Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post

    The perfectly named Salome is a monster. It’s like a deeper, more dramatic Muscs Koublai Khan that folds in aspect of Musc Tonkin, Fleur Poudrée de Musc, and Anubis and manages to pull it off perfectly.
    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post

    A castoreum, gasoline, resinous, civety, lurid floral musk with the right amount of imperfection in all the right places. It’s dark, risky, and supremely moody — it’s fantastic.
    ok, am hooked!! blind buy for sure and moves to the top of the list

  13. #13
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    279

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Release is set for August 1st, for those interested!
    Currently wearing: Flor y Canto by Arquiste

  14. #14

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    None of the others enticed me to try them, but I'd like to try this.
    Currently wearing: L'Attesa by Masque

  15. #15

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    great review! thanks for posting! i love anubis & tobacco rose & am really excited to give this one a sniff.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Most of the times this "scary dark animalic stuff" which many indie brands and their easily-satisfied fans seem so fond of is often so much weaker than the marketing tries to make you believe. And Anubis was beyond depressing for me. But well, some notes of this Salome sound interesting, e.g. that orange thing, so let's see...
    ______________________________

    My fragrance reviews | Ye Olde Civet Cat

  17. #17

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Maillard View Post
    Most of the times this "scary dark animalic stuff" which many indie brands and their easily-satisfied fans seem so fond of is often so much weaker than the marketing tries to make you believe.
    I agree. Actually, my tastes have become less ~*dark, animalic*~ as time as gone on. I like brighter fragrances now, which can be so much more interesting (depending on the fragrance, obviously).
    But deadidol is actually what piqued my interest and not the marketing.
    Currently wearing: L'Attesa by Masque

  18. #18

    teardrop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The south of England
    Posts
    16,364
    Blog Entries
    3

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Quote Originally Posted by zeniba View Post
    deadidol is actually what piqued my interest and not the marketing.
    Same here! l take far more notice of a reviewer l trust than any amount of marketing spiel.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Kafkaesque posted a head spinning review of this just yesterday. I soaked up every word, and at least a few times texted quotes to my friends. I highly recommend everyone read K's review. An amazing piece of something close to literature!

    Based upon K's review, this is a blind FB buy for me, although I probably won't give it much play (one of those "a time and a place" parfumes).

    Has anyone in the US purchased? K says it is out sometime mid Sept, although iris&oud above suggests August 1st?
    Current Go-To:
    Javanese Patchouli (Zegna), Vintage Tabarome (Creed), Vetiver Ext. (R Dove), Kobe (Xerjoff), M1849 (Creed), L'Air du Desert Marocain (Tauer), Colonia Essenza (Acqua di Parma), Musc Infini (Ex Nihilo), Bergamot Ext. (R Dove), Musk Oud (By Killian), Violettes du Czar (Legrand)

  20. #20

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Should be any day now at Lucky Scent. I'm interested to see how others respond to this well. Salome and Bruno Fazzolari's Seyrig are holding down the fort for "best of 2015" for me so far.

  21. #21
    Dependent La Flâneuse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Up North
    Posts
    1,567

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    It's currently available at Les Senteurs website £98 for 50ml for those who are interested

    edit pre-order, sorry
    Last edited by La Flâneuse; 28th August 2015 at 11:01 PM.

  22. #22
    Dependent La Flâneuse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Up North
    Posts
    1,567

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    I've placed an order for a sample, what with Kafkaesques great write up with skin, sex and soiled kecks I'm interested...love a bit of skank

  23. #23

    thebeck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Biggest Little City
    Posts
    4,111

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Even though the first 3 offerings didn't get me too excited, I'm still anxious to sample Salome. Sample ordered.
    Last edited by thebeck; 29th August 2015 at 12:17 PM.

  24. #24
    Moderator

    cazaubon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Montréal and San Diego
    Posts
    5,158

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    I love Anubis and Tobacco Rose, can't wait to sniff Salome. Need to order a sample asap.

  25. #25
    Dependent La Flâneuse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Up North
    Posts
    1,567

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    Quote Originally Posted by thebeck View Post
    Even though the first 3 offerings didn't get me too excited, I'm still anxious to sample Salome. Sample ordered.
    My thoughts exactly, I tried Anubis and Tobacco Rose and unfortunately they didn't do anything for me, however I'm really wanting to try this. I love MKK and MT so if this is anything like either of those it will be an interesting scent, it's reassuring that there are perfume houses that still push the envelope when it comes to the more beastly scents, especially in a world drenched in sweet vanilla and clean musks etc

  26. #26

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    I love Anubis and own it and Angelique, with the latter using a light touch and freshness with orris. Tobacco Rose is excellent but I feel this niche in my wardrobe to be filled by Portrait of a Lady. This line does something for me, so I'm very excited to try this new release.

  27. #27
    Dependent La Flâneuse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Up North
    Posts
    1,567

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    @deadidol your review is spot on, I'm wearing my sample and I'm getting the gasoline/petrol like jasmine. It sort of shifts between the musk in MKK and MT (with MKK being a groiny musky man smell and MT having an almost oily, salty quality to it- for me anyway!)

    My nose isn't sophisticated enough to dissect the scent, however I get a mixture of really nice musks, something floral which I think may be the orange blossom weaving in and out, some slight powder- civet? And a hint of something urinous. It has a very sexy warm skin quality, like lying in a post coital glow. I don't get massive projection, but my test is a vial not spray, it has a refined and elegant quality- it's not 'dirty' in order to shock or offend, I think it would be more wearable than MKK which is a huge in your face beastly musk, which I love for precisely that reason.

    I so far have in my musk section of fragrance MKK, MT, Musk Ravageur, a small quantity of L'air d Rien which I'm not entirely sold on, and Kiehls Original Musk. I think I may be getting this as well

  28. #28

    thebeck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Biggest Little City
    Posts
    4,111

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    The notes:

    Turkish rose, Jasmine, Carnation, Oakmoss, Castoreum, Civet, Hyraceum, Styrax, Tobacco, Orange Blossom, Patchouli, Sweet Hay, Bitter Red Orange, Bergamot, Cumin, Clove bud, Birch tar, and Vanilla

    From the notes this looks like over the top animalic. It's not! For me this scent is extremely well balanced. I love jasmine and rose combos, and I'm not a fan of carnation. The interesting thing is the carnation in Salome just works to take the usual sweetness, sometimes feminine aspect out of the jasmine/rose combo,and turns it more ruff and masculine. Weird but nicely done. Reminds me of Egoiste Concentree a little bit in that respect.

    There's been mention of this being a monster scent. For me this is no where near monster because it's so well mannered and sophisticated. I also don't think comparisons to MKK, Musc Tonkin are relative either. Salome doesn't bark or shout it's animalic, it just purrs.

    This is not a challenging scent as the description would have you believe. It's a very easy wear IMO. It's very chameleon like, as each time you wear it there's subtle differences in its presentation. That's fun. Salome is easily Papillion's Crown Jewel. This is an artistic statement perfume that deserves high accolades, and rewards the wearer with a special day each time he or she wears it. Straight up the middle unisex to my nose.

    I don't get raunchy or stinky from this one. When perfumers' use even a wee bit too much hyraceum I don't like it. Here the hyraceum is just a supporting role used in the exact right amount. I have a hyraceum tincture that I got from Mandy Aftel from Aftelier Perfumes so I know what the pure stuff smells like - and it's nasty, raunchy, and just plain stinks to high heaven. Even slightly over used I don't like it. Used like Liz Moore did, it's simply just right to my nose.

    Is Salome musky? Yes. Overly musky? No. To me it's a big floral - jasmine, rose and carnation with some animalic and musky supporting notes with each material used in the exact right proportion. That's why it works so well. This had to be a nightmare to get it right. I bet Liz had many frustrating days, and sleepless nights trying to get Salome to come together like she imagined.
    Last edited by thebeck; 13th September 2015 at 03:51 PM.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    The musks really do seem to vary from person to person. To me, it's pretty damn raunchy — easily on par with some of the "big stinkers" of the last decade, but I totally agree that it's well-balanced and sophisticated as well. It actually has a lot of musks in it, but hyraceum absolute is the main one here which spins it a bit leathery. And La Flâneuse, I'm with you on the L'Air de Rien. That was a far tamer scent that the reviews had led me to believe.

    Looking forward to what others think as this is one of the best things I've smelled this year.
    Last edited by deadidol; 13th September 2015 at 07:21 AM.

  30. #30

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    England
    Posts
    3,945

    Default Re: Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.

    I'll certainly try this. Was also underwhelmed by Anubis, which started out well but then turned out to be just thin cedar on me. But deadidol and Kafkaesque (although her writing is so long, repetitive, and a bit dime store romance novel, her taste is similar to mine) have me convinced that I need to check it out.
    Currently wearing: Kalemat by Arabian Oud




Similar Threads

  1. Papillon Artisan Perfumes Anubis
    By TheAntagonist in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 7th April 2015, 09:42 PM
  2. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 19th July 2014, 01:26 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000