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  1. #301
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Thanks.. So mine is not spoiled...

  2. #302
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    There is not much info about linalyl benzoate. Givaudan calls it beatifull tuberose. Is it true? longetivity 12 hours. Not cheap one.

  3. #303
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    I got linalyl benzoate but it was packed together with crazy dimethyl phenols and they poisoned it. Anyway it's not strong.

    I tried Tilianol Supra which is purified alpha Terpineol. Dissapointed. It's SO weak and has no face of Terpineol. Better I use old and dirty one.

  4. #304
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Fleuranil (nitrile)- did somebody try it?
    thanks.

  5. #305

    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    Fleuranil (nitrile)- did somebody try it?
    thanks.
    Yes. A bit like floralozone, but somehow more salty. Fresh, ozone. A little bit of a celery/herb/seaweed aspect. Very strong and quite pleasant.

  6. #306
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Thanks. So, it's not actually floral? in comparison with Peonile- another floral nitrile?

  7. #307
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post

    The best Hyacinth fragrance I can think of is Penhaligon's "Bluebell". A simple Hyacinth soliflore. ".
    Today I try Bluebell. For me it's direction of Diorissimo- hydroxycitronellal, lyral, terpineol, hyacinth body, phenylacetaldehyde.With the melis accord in the end. It's strong and straight, well balanced. I like it it's kind of Time Machine of Herbert Wells. I took a blotter and after a few minutes show it to the young women in the office. All they said- it's awful. It's simple, it's oldfashion, it's boring and explicit. The end of story.
    Last edited by Serg Ixygon; 9th November 2017 at 07:44 PM.

  8. #308
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Mysteriuos AC from the past...

    IMG_3168.JPG

  9. #309

    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    where did you get that? i'm curious how you would describe its aroma and performance.
    apparently, pell wall is offering it too.

  10. #310
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    I heated it a ittle bit ... Neat- it's odourless for me. 10% alcohol sol - odourless for me. Tommorow I try 1%.
    I got a sample from industrial supplier. They do not sell to private person in small q.

  11. #311
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Uhmm...Chris bartlett write about ""According to Arcadi Boix Camps this is one of the top five woody-amber ingredients describing it as “one of the best chemicals I have known and smelled � One of the sublime odours, the best of the best”""...
    See here, maybe you have the second version, odorless and fixative ?
    http://www.leffingwell.com/chirality...ylpropanol.htm

  12. #312
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Geco, there is the only producer of Hyrdoxyambran now at the market. So , there is no chance to get another H. I will give samples to other perfumers and let's see what happens...

  13. #313

    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    seems that you shouldn't sniff it straight from the bottle, because it fatigues your nose instantly ... but you should let it dry on a blotter and then sniff the air around it ...
    From freedom came elegance:
    in the Finnish man we trust

  14. #314
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    My first ready perfume (Jasmine). 5 ml.
    IMG_3170.JPG

  15. #315
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Congratulations Serg!
    have you already done it to your friends?
    is it a pure jasmine or with other nuances?
    Last edited by Geco; 3rd March 2018 at 06:11 PM.

  16. #316
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Thanks, Geco! It's pure Hedion with jasmine nuances... I tested it on my friends already with positive feedback , now I did it for sale.

  17. #317

    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    Thanks, Geco! It's pure Hedion with jasmine nuances... I tested it on my friends already with positive feedback , now I did it for sale.
    looks great!
    are you allowed to sell homemade perfumes in Russia?
    From freedom came elegance:
    in the Finnish man we trust

  18. #318
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    It depends what do you mean under the word SALES. As an unique individual art craft from hands to hands- yes, it's not a crime. As a over counter mass product in the beauty or perfumery shop- not, of course, not. You should get a product registration and certification. It's possible but it's another story- it's a business.
    Last edited by Serg Ixygon; 4th March 2018 at 12:11 PM.

  19. #319
    Basenotes Junkie Dmitriy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    Geco, there is the only producer of Hyrdoxyambran now at the market. So , there is no chance to get another H. I will give samples to other perfumers and let's see what happens...
    Serge, gave me a sample for evaluation. To my nose in 10% dilution it is not a strong,(three times weaker than Amberextreme in 1%) clean,dry, woody, not rough amberish, material, like a very light mixture of Norlimbanol, Cedramber with a slight metallic tint as from rose oxide, the animalistic aspect for me is also very insignificant (less than in cedramber and others ) Probably it has its own application, but such materials as Ambercore, Amberextreme , cedramber I like more ))

  20. #320
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Caramel Furanone, aka Sotolone, is certainly used for fragrance, but start with heavy dilution, even at 0.1%.
    Hi Paul, I've seen you working with that material in some bases. I've received it as a sample from PSH and honestly don't know what should i think about it. Smell is so strong at 0,25%, reminds me Maggi sauce. Shall diluting it to even 0,1% help ? What kind of effect does it give in Your opinion to the fragrances? Is that really sweet and caramel / burn coffee ?

  21. #321
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Depends upon if you already dilute your other materials as a rule.
    You may know, that as a rule, I do not dilute, but formulate at full strength for most things.
    I have dilutions of these percents for Sotolone:
    0.1%, 1%, 3%, 25%, and neat (for later)

    If you read the page on TGSC, it says:
    Odor Strength:very high ,
    recommend smelling in a 0.01 % solution or less


    When I first started using it, working on a Zoologist perfume, I used it too strongly, because I didn't know, it, and it took over the perfume.
    I kept diluting it until I found it a workable dilution for formulating. I might use a different higher dilution for compounding a larger amount, than for trials.

    Yes, sweet and caramellic, are pretty accurate.
    I used it in my PK Caramel Accord, since I didn't like how PA's caramel accord smelled of strawberries, because of a high dose of strawberry furanone.

    Coffee? Not so much. But coffee is complicated, and sure, it could get in there, especially if using it for the foamy sweet topping of the coffee drink. Burnt? a little, also depends upon dosage.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  22. #322
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    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Thanks Paul, I'm not affraid that much now so if I'll be working on something with sweet / caramel aspects. That's was pretty scary to me as I was just checking it out on the blotter. Anyway the sample was in such a little 1ml bottle, which cap I had to prise with my nail. The smell remained on them for around 2-3 weeks, and I was blaming different material for that

  23. #323

    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    I'm again in buying mode. There are some AC which I'm sure to buy, and there is a list for doubt and thinking:
    Doremox - improved Rose Oxyde?
    Floropal - chrizantheme?
    Okoumal
    Theaspirane
    I really like Doremox, it's so much brighter and less "musty" (for lack of a better word) than dihydro-rose oxide.
    Pretty sour, but beautiful, almost like the note is a sour green Reisling wine or unripe starfruit. Probably a lot of potential there. To just completely write it off as some cheaper version of rose oxide is, I think, a mistake. Maybe could be used in some tropical floral.

    Okoumal was a strange one, really difficult to describe. I got a yellow-beige gray color feeling from it. Strangely it reminded me of the rare and highly prized Japanese mushroom variety Matsutake (which in turn I would describe as having an exquisite mushroom flavor with almost a cinnamon edge). It gives the impression of oak, but I wouldn't really describe it as woody. It wouldn't be completely inappropriate to describe the smell as "exquisite", it's not just mushroom.

    Theaspirane was like eucalyptus but more mild and with an exquisite woodiness, better than eucalyptus. I also liked this one.
    Strangely I could sort of picture just the woodiness aspect in a mango fruit, but if it was a mango it would be an extremely dry mango, not fruity.
    Very subtle exquisite berry flavor nuance, and a hint of camphor as well, but not as cold as camphor. (It sort of had the same sort of feeling as tea, but not tea)

    Floropal was a strange one, difficult to describe.
    I read one review that said it had the feeling of body sweat on a hot day, and I think I could agree with that, but strangely in a fresh way, not animalic stinky body odor.
    In some way it has a very similar feeling to Pamplefleur (ruby red mouth-puckering rhubarb tangy grapefruit, rubbery vetiver nuances) but far more toned down. Maybe like Vetikone but without the dirt and earthiness. Floropal is definitely fresh, has a bit of flower-like "rubberiness", very subtle vetiver edge almost, but there's something about it that's sort of "stuffy" (not the right word, and I don't think there is a word for it) in a way I haven't smelled with others. It could be useful, I have mixed feelings about this one. It reminded me of something in a modern men's sports fragrance.

  24. #324

    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    Dimethyl Hydroquinone
    I would not describe this as "fresh". If it's hay it's the harsh aspect of hay, still green and not dried.
    I get a little bit of a plastic smell from an overheating computer, but don't necessarily let that put you off, other valued AC can sometimes have a bit of that aspect as well. (bit of anise as well)
    I'm thinking it might go with Veramoss (Evernyl, i.e. the synthetic oakmoss AC). Sort of that family of feel.

    I was hoping for the smell of hay, but this wasn't my thing.

  25. #325

    Default Re: Not popular AC part 1.

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    Jasmine is great but the price! Labdanum, costus- how to use it with so high price?
    Synthetic jasmine smells pretty much as good as the real thing. I really liked costus, it had an intriguing beautiful smell, that I get the feeling would not be possible to replicate with synthetics.


    I'll also mention Firascone and Givescone.

    To me Givescone had the feeling of pomegranate juice mixed with some opaque white salicylate, minty oil of wintergreen. A little bit of rose-apple smell. (talking about normal apples, the genus Malus)

    Firascone was more some sort of exquisite apple juice, and smelled almost twice as much potency to beta-damascone as Givescone does. It's also kind of herbal, like geranium leaves. This leaves an impression of rose potpourri, but real rose (with beta-damascone) and not just the cheap part in rose potpourri.

    Both of them smell very similar to each other, but a little bit more in different directions.

    They are some of the rare ACs that can actually substitute for beta-damascone in some situations, they do have that note within them as one of their aspects. They also do not have sensitivity limits.




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