Code of Conduct
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 77
  1. #1

    Default My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Well I have had the great pleasure in sampling Papillon's range of fragrances and here are my thoughts on each of the scents they do.

    ANUBIS

    Notes: Suede, jasmine, pink lotus, immortelle, olibanum, myrrh and saffron.



    Dark smoky oily leather is what I get on first application, reminds me of Knize ten at this stage. Soon a light warm sweet treacle note appears behind the darky oily leather coming from the immortelle.

    Then you can start to smell a light jasmine floral note appearing within the smoky leather scent. This soon becomes stronger mixing in with incense and saffron which has now merged with the leather.

    Eventually you have a very smoky sweet floral leather scent wrapped up in lots of incense. You could imagine a temple in ancient Egypt where sweet incense is burning mixing with the animal skins that are on the floor and walls of the temple in a ceremonial fashion.

    It's a heavy fragrance you can tell that a lot of quality oils have been used. Just do not overspray or this scent could choke you out.

    I have to say I am impressed it smells very good and is very evocative. I like how the smoky florals and incense mix with the leather.

    Thumbs up, very good fragrance or should I say art.

    TOBACCO ROSE

    Notes: Bulgarian rose, rose de mai, oakmoss, ambergris, beeswax and peru balsam.



    On the opening I can smell a big lush red rose though I get no tobacco whatsoever within the scent.

    Now the rose is front and centre to this composition though facets of the smell have been changed with other notes that subtlety alter the smell. And this makes the scent very interesting especially if you love roses.

    The hay and moss notes give the rose a subtle earthy dryness whilst the ambergris adds a slight salty sweetness. And I believe the beeswax just rounds out the sweetness of the overall smell.

    So when you inhale this scent the rose almost smells mystical as you get a lush red rose which seems to be different from the usual rose scent that you are used to smelling.

    It is a very well crafted rose scent as it makes you stop and think that this is different but you cannot put your finger on it without much thought.

    For me as a man this rose fragrance though imo very good I just feel I could not pull this one off. And this is down to the rose been too lush and intense for my taste. I have the same problem with Lyric Man from Amouage.

    For rose lovers this is a great mystical lush red rose with different facets that makes sampling this one a pleasure.

    ANGELIQUE

    Notes: Mimosa petals, orris, champaca, osmanthus, cedar and olibanum.



    After application I'm enveloped in a buttery cloud of Iris coupled with a apricot like sugary sweetness coming from the mimosa petals. This is all on a woody backdrop which underpins the scent at this time.

    The scent is floral and a bit powdery though unmistakably feminine. I could appreciate smelling this on a lady but could not wear this one myself.

    All in all a nice fragrance.

    SALOME

    Notes: Jasmine, carnation, bitter red orange, Turkish rose, orange blossom, tobacco, hyraceum, styrax, vanilla, hay, patchouli, bergamot, oakmoss, cumin, birch tar, castoreum.



    Wow a civet floral sexy beast of a fragrance that reminds me a bit of Serge Lutens Musc Koubli Khan but better. The floral aspect gives the dirty civet aspect space to breath, it does not suffocate you out.

    This smells great and very old school, you don't get many of these anamalic scents on the shelves these days. This is real perfume here.

    Roja Dove has a very exclusive fragrance out called Diaghilev at Harrods thats costs about £750. Basically it's a very civet and mossy scent with a few florals and that does not come close to this one.

    Those who have a adventurous spirit and are a little bit daring will love this one. It's not for everyone but my god this fragrance is magnificient.

    10 out of 10. Wow!

    Ones I like best in order are:

    1. Salome - This is amazing, a floral civet & musk fragrance. Those who love Kouros will love this one. I feel like all the years that I have been collecting fragrances have culminated into this top of the mountain fragrance. It's not for everyone " be warned here be real perfume" those who are afraid of a bit of civet and cumin in their fragrances stay away from this one. But for the rest of us wow, I gotta get a bottle of this sometime in the new year.

    2. Anubis - I love this scent as well, a dark brooding leather scent. The way the incense and florals play off the dark leather is really good. Going to go for a decant at some point. The drydown on many of these fragrances is really good, here you get sweet woodsy incense, smells great.

    3. Tobacco Rose - I like the scent and the drydown is good with a dry rosy ambergris. The first few hours the rose is just to lush and intense for my taste. Good scent though.

    4. Angelique - I did not really care for this one, not a bad scent just too feminine for me to wear. I find that I just cannot get away with wearing mimosa, osmanthus & champaca notes.

    All in a great range of fragrances where you can tell a high percentage of perfume oils have been used. Will be interested to see what other fragrance this house comes out with in the coming years.
    "There's No School Like The Old School."

    My Top Five

    1. Vintage Lauder For Men Cologne
    2. Eau de Rochas Homme
    3. D R Harris Sandalwood (Aftershave)
    4. G F Trumper Eucris EdT & Edp
    5. Guerlain Vetiver
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Reside in McLean, Va., Manhattan NYC, Manuel Antonio Costa Rica & Búzios Brasil
    Posts
    274,010

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Thanks for sharing your detailed thoughts and impressions Jack.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  3. #3
    Moderator
    rum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Land of the Chypre
    Posts
    12,365

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    I had my suspissions I would like Salome, but alas Jack came along with this post and ruined everything for me. That's Christmas present budget now cut in half.
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  4. #4
    Basenotes Institution
    sjg3839's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    41,622

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Great reviews Jack. Thanks.
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26148387.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26148387-7393.jpg"> Carven L'Eau Intense by Carven</a></div>

  5. #5
    Basenotes Plus
    Sniffers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Chicago,IL
    Posts
    978

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Only sampled Salome and Anubis so far...totally agree with your comments on both...Salome is going to be my December Luckyscent purchase and will get at least a decant of Anubis ...great reviews Jack...thank you very much...
    Currently wearing: Cabaret Homme by Grès

  6. #6
    Super Member ibrahimzen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Edinburgh, Scotland
    Posts
    238

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Papillon Perfumes is a house that I do appreciate. Thanks for sharing your thoughts Jack.

    I have tried them all myself except for Angelique, and my favorite is Anubis. Salome was something, but I could not love it from first sniff, I intend to try it more.

    Enjoy
    Currently wearing: Arso by Profumum

  7. #7
    Basenotes Junkie
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    576

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Thanks for this. Anubis sounds like it could be my style

  8. #8
    Basenotes Member JimB-MI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Royal Oak MI USA
    Posts
    56

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Great review!
    Memories, imagination, old sentiments, and associations are more readily reached through the sense of smell than through any other channel.

    – Oliver Wendell Holmes

  9. #9
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    19,202

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Excellent thread, Jack! Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

    I haven't tried this line, but now curious to try Salome and Anubis.
    Currently wearing: Green Irish Tweed by Creed

  10. #10

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    I had some samples of these some time ago and although nice, I don't remember being overly enamoured by them but maybe I rushed the testing. I shall dig them out again and resniff..
    The PONK club - gymnosium for perfumers (NOTE:- New club matters on hold whilst I care for my mum)

    Twitter - @PonkClub for regular twitter updates

    My Tincture list

    A perfumed life - Tinctures, perfumes, cordials, wines and ingredients

  11. #11
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    19,202

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by mumsy View Post
    I had some samples of these some time ago and although nice, I don't remember being overly enamoured by them but maybe I rushed the testing. I shall dig them out again and resniff..


    Would love to hear your thoughts.
    Currently wearing: Green Irish Tweed by Creed

  12. #12

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Well I've actually put my money where my mouth is as I have just ordered a 10ml decant of Anubis. Great thing is as the scent is very oily you only need a little amount to get good projection on your skin.

    I'm going to have to wait until next year before I purchase Salome which is glorious, it's really well balanced between the floral and musky civet notes. I only pray that it's not reformulated before I buy it next year. Fragrances this good that use top quality oils (and this is densely packed with them) are usually reformulated due to cost or IFRA. Fingers crossed.
    "There's No School Like The Old School."

    My Top Five

    1. Vintage Lauder For Men Cologne
    2. Eau de Rochas Homme
    3. D R Harris Sandalwood (Aftershave)
    4. G F Trumper Eucris EdT & Edp
    5. Guerlain Vetiver
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  13. #13

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Great stuff Jack! I've really enjoyed trying them too. To me Salome smells like Salome hasn't washed her pants since her gig in the first century AD, and simultaneously someone nearby in the twenty first century AD has shat themself. Honestly! Don't get me wrong. I do think that it is bold, and terrific, and I see that it is attracting a lot of praise. A contemporary animalic is hard to come by and I think that a lot of people will love it for that. The use of Hyraceum (African Stone) which seems to be coming through these days is really interesting (what says you mumsy?) Masque Milano use it too, and others I think. Salome is perhaps one for lovers of the more intimate aspects of fragrance I think. For me, the stunningly beautiful Tobacco Rose is the star of the show.

  14. #14

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    lol..... That's a funny description Foustie, I nearly splurged my coffee over my laptop laughing. Funny thing about animalic scents that contain musks and civet like notes you always get polarizing views. I remember having a laugh reading the reviews of Musc Koubli Khan, you got a lot of people saying it was a beastly disgusting scent and others who thought it was tame. I was in fact one of the ones who did not see what the all the fuss was about but then I love dark musky fragrances. I think anyone who can wear Leather Oud, mkk and Roja's diaghilev could easily wear this one. Though it's not for everyone, and I would not wear this to church.lol

    I agree with you on the Tobacco Rose scent, it's very nice especially the added ambergris. Though it's too rosy for me until the drydown.
    "There's No School Like The Old School."

    My Top Five

    1. Vintage Lauder For Men Cologne
    2. Eau de Rochas Homme
    3. D R Harris Sandalwood (Aftershave)
    4. G F Trumper Eucris EdT & Edp
    5. Guerlain Vetiver
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  15. #15
    Basenotes Institution
    CapriDog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Saigon, Vietnam
    Posts
    13,149

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Foustie. Lol.

  16. #16

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes


  17. #17

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    Aha! Thank you Dane. Very interesting!

  18. #18

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Thanks also for the link Dane, interesting article by Luca Turin. He's right imo, once you get past the opening salvo it is a beautiful oriental. I love jasmine and like carnation and this scent has those notes in spades as a good contrast to the sexy beastly notes.lol
    "There's No School Like The Old School."

    My Top Five

    1. Vintage Lauder For Men Cologne
    2. Eau de Rochas Homme
    3. D R Harris Sandalwood (Aftershave)
    4. G F Trumper Eucris EdT & Edp
    5. Guerlain Vetiver
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  19. #19
    Moderator
    rum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Land of the Chypre
    Posts
    12,365

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    Wow, that dude really does know to paint quite a picture with his words!!
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  20. #20
    Newbie
    Diamondflame's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    13,997

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Yes I thought Salome and Anubis were outstanding. But I doubt if these statement-making scents will get worn frequently. Salome is too raunchy for me to wear personally even though the civet used is of a tamer aromachemical derivative.

  21. #21
    Moderator

    cazaubon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Montréal and San Diego
    Posts
    5,157

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    I have and love Anubis and Tobacco Rose, will definitely sample Salome when I am in the US next month.

  22. #22

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hunter View Post
    I think anyone who can wear Leather Oud, mkk and Roja's diaghilev could easily wear this one.
    That's interesting Jack. I absolutely love Diaghilev but find Salome to be unwearable. The poopiness + dark churchy incense just doesn't work on my skin (at least the skin where I normally apply fragrances!).


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Current Go-To:
    Javanese Patchouli (Zegna), Vintage Tabarome (Creed), Vetiver Ext. (R Dove), Kobe (Xerjoff), M1849 (Creed), L'Air du Desert Marocain (Tauer), Colonia Essenza (Acqua di Parma), Musc Infini (Ex Nihilo), Bergamot Ext. (R Dove), Musk Oud (By Killian), Violettes du Czar (Legrand)

  23. #23

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Mandaguy View Post
    That's interesting Jack. I absolutely love Diaghilev but find Salome to be unwearable. The poopiness + dark churchy incense just doesn't work on my skin (at least the skin where I normally apply fragrances!).


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    I guess everyone's threshold for carnal animalic fragrances is going to be different, like Mkk it's definitely a polarizing fragrance. lol

    When I first sampled Diaghilev I was so disappointed as to me it was too tightly packed and the civet and oakmoss made it smell like something that had been mothballed in a museum for hundreds of years. And the floral's seemed flat and smothered by the dominating civet and oakmoss.

    Well Salome is all that I wished Diaghilev was, it's glorious imo. After the raunchy opening not only do you get a wonderful dark animalic muskyness but the floral's really bloom within the fragrance. Lot's of quality jasmine (which I love since I smelled it watching a belly-dancer do her routine at night in Egypt years ago) and carnation. It kind of breathes life into the scent. I guess what I'm saying is after been on a long search for a dark musky fragrance even buying real Deer Musk in Sandalwood which was too feral and wild to wear this fragrance for me hits the spot.

    It's also quite potent as I get all day longevity and it even survives showers, I can still smell it on my jumper which I wore. Anyway love it or hate it, it's a great fragrance to sample just for the sheer fun factor. lol
    Last edited by Jack Hunter; 2nd December 2015 at 10:11 AM.
    "There's No School Like The Old School."

    My Top Five

    1. Vintage Lauder For Men Cologne
    2. Eau de Rochas Homme
    3. D R Harris Sandalwood (Aftershave)
    4. G F Trumper Eucris EdT & Edp
    5. Guerlain Vetiver
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  24. #24
    Dependent La Flâneuse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Up North
    Posts
    1,567

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    @Foustie what a wonderful turn of phrase you have!

    @Jack Hunter I have Salome which is wonderous and well worth the price, I've noticed that it smells differently whether sprayed or daubed. My sample was a dauber vial and the gasolene Jasmine was very prominent, my FB when sprayed has a strong Orange note which lasts all the way through, I am just discovering it's facets at the moment so I'm sure my nose will pick up more of it's complexity as I go on...

    I think it's one of the best releases this year, and is a lovely little beastie sharing it's DNA with MKK and Musk Tonkin.

    I'm going to have to dig out my Anubis sample again, it sounds perfect for me, but as yet we haven't 'clicked'. Tabacco Rose is a lovely Rose, but I couldn't pick up any Tabacco and as it's one of my favourite notes was a tad disapointing.

    A question for those who have tried it...Is Angelique anything like Une Fleur de Cassie? I notice it has Mimosa petals in it and wondered if it was simillar or not? I'm probably going to have to get a sample of it, but any additional info would be welcome

  25. #25

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Did you notice La Flâneuse how a small amount goes a long way, my sample just spurts out a small amount of perfume but this scent just blooms like you get with the old vintage fragrances. And this is what surprises me in this day and age Salome is like a throwback to the old glorious vintage fragrances of times gone by. The scent is really a symphony of different notes. I will have to look out for that orange note as I am no where near in dissecting this scent, it has so much to offer.

    Anubis I found to be really evocative, the brooding dark oily leather and incense does evoke ancient temples and smoky altars. Though I'm sure the name of the scent has influenced me as the sense of smell is so subjective depending on your frame of reference. Scent samples is doing decants of Anubis and I found a small amount on my skin goes a long way in the projection department.

    I have not smelled Une Fleur de Cassie, maybe some else can chime in.
    "There's No School Like The Old School."

    My Top Five

    1. Vintage Lauder For Men Cologne
    2. Eau de Rochas Homme
    3. D R Harris Sandalwood (Aftershave)
    4. G F Trumper Eucris EdT & Edp
    5. Guerlain Vetiver
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  26. #26
    Dependent La Flâneuse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Up North
    Posts
    1,567

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    You're right a little does go a long way! I've not been fortunate to try any vintage fragrances, but I have tried Bal a Versailles, which I think shares the opulence of Salome. I think the complexity of Liz Moores creations is refreshing, they're definitely not boring or 'thin'. I'm looking forward to see what other gems she has for us in 2016.

    Thanks for the heads up, I didn't know Scent Samples were selling these, time to dig out the credit card methinks!

  27. #27

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    La Flâneuse, scent samples is only doing Anubis. If you want my Angelique sample you are welcome to it, it's the only one I found too feminine out of the range for my taste. PM me and I will get it in the post too you if you want.
    "There's No School Like The Old School."

    My Top Five

    1. Vintage Lauder For Men Cologne
    2. Eau de Rochas Homme
    3. D R Harris Sandalwood (Aftershave)
    4. G F Trumper Eucris EdT & Edp
    5. Guerlain Vetiver
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  28. #28
    Dependent La Flâneuse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Up North
    Posts
    1,567

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Thank you so much! I will PM you

  29. #29

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Well, a bit of nose fun. I have two unmarked samples left over. One darker yellow and one pale… should make the testing interesting. I shall do a blind sniff and you can guess which they might be. Always a good test for the nose.
    The PONK club - gymnosium for perfumers (NOTE:- New club matters on hold whilst I care for my mum)

    Twitter - @PonkClub for regular twitter updates

    My Tincture list

    A perfumed life - Tinctures, perfumes, cordials, wines and ingredients

  30. #30

    Default Re: My Thoughts On Papillon Artisan Perfumes

    Mumsy, if there are unholy expletives in your post's after sniffing then we will know you have sampled Salome.lol
    "There's No School Like The Old School."

    My Top Five

    1. Vintage Lauder For Men Cologne
    2. Eau de Rochas Homme
    3. D R Harris Sandalwood (Aftershave)
    4. G F Trumper Eucris EdT & Edp
    5. Guerlain Vetiver
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain




Similar Threads

  1. Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes.
    By iris&oud in forum General Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 57
    Last Post: 17th October 2016, 02:26 PM
  2. Papillon Artisan Perfumes Anubis
    By TheAntagonist in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 7th April 2015, 09:42 PM
  3. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 19th July 2014, 01:26 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000