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  1. #1

    Default Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Hey all,

    I have smelt costus ollifac and found it to be a rather poor imitation of the real thing. I haven't smelt Synarome's costus replacer yet (I have ordered a sample though). Has anyone got any experience with the synarome product or even making mods to the IFF replacer to make it closer to the real thing?

    Unfortunately the real thing is banned from cosmetics in NZ so I must use a replacer if I sell the fragrance that I am using it in.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Sorry I can't help you with your question, but I have a related one.
    What is the definition of the word Ollifac? I cannot find it.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Quote Originally Posted by julian35 View Post
    Sorry I can't help you with your question, but I have a related one.
    What is the definition of the word Ollifac? I cannot find it.
    Actually I have no idea - I have always presumed it is a made-up term used by IFF - hence ol-IFF-ac - perhaps IFF olfactory accord? Who knows?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Exactly so. IFF make a series of bases, all called Oliffac.

    Never smelled the Synarome Costus either; sorry.

  5. #5

    Default Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Ah.. the mystery is solved. Thank you for the elucidation. (It was probably only a mystery to me, LOL)

  6. #6

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    The question about a good replacer is still unaswered, unfortunately. Any updates on this yet?
    Currently wearing: Ébène by Pierre Balmain

  7. #7

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Quote Originally Posted by Nasenmann View Post
    The question about a good replacer is still unaswered, unfortunately. Any updates on this yet?
    Yes - Costus Ollifac is the closest you can get as a synthetic costus. I was extremely disappointed with the synarome product considering they have some really great stuff. Their costus replacer is really more of a general animalic base. The Ollifac is good but not amazing - it is definitely lacking the smoothness and richness of the real oil . . . but it is the best thing you can get that I am aware of.

    And, if you are going to use real costus (which I always do for my own use) you really need to get the costus oil from Firmenich (samples available from Vigon) as it is absolutely outstanding. Firmenich costus oil is hands-down the best on the market. And don't buy costus absolute (which some other places sell) as it is not really suitable for perfume due to its non-solubility.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Thank you, jfrater! I think I'll have to sample that Firmenich oil for a proper reference first before I look any further. I have Costausol (PFW) but so far never found that one useful at all.
    Currently wearing: Ébène by Pierre Balmain

  9. #9

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Quote Originally Posted by Nasenmann View Post
    Thank you, jfrater! I think I'll have to sample that Firmenich oil for a proper reference first before I look any further. I have Costausol (PFW) but so far never found that one useful at all.
    Costus (the real thing) is an outstanding oil - incredibly beautiful. It is found (surprisingly) in quite high doses (0.6%+ at 100%) in such perfumes as Miss Dior and Tabu and it was used in a lot of mens perfumes too.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    I read some discussion about the animalic aspects of Kouros and some people were guessing that Costus might be envolved. That's actually what renewed my interest in it.
    Currently wearing: Ébène by Pierre Balmain

  11. #11

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Quote Originally Posted by Nasenmann View Post
    I read some discussion about the animalic aspects of Kouros and some people were guessing that Costus might be envolved. That's actually what renewed my interest in it.
    Kouros used the animalis base which has been reformulated these days. It is possible that had costus in it originally - or Kouros may have had costus added directly into the formula.

    By the way, the reason that costus T Ollifac is better than the other copies is that it has costus acid which is a captive.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Quote Originally Posted by jfrater View Post
    Kouros used the animalis base which has been reformulated these days. It is possible that had costus in it originally - or Kouros may have had costus added directly into the formula.

    By the way, the reason that costus T Ollifac is better than the other copies is that it has costus acid which is a captive.
    Wow, never heared of that base before but it's super-interesting! Looking it up, Animalis seems to be quite famous and influential actually. Allegedly, the entire animalic-genre goes back to this base!

    At least according to these two Perfume Shrine-articles, Animalis did contain Costus (so we're not entirely off-topic ):
    (...) a feral, thick ambery yellow liquid, mostly insoluble in water but easily soluble in alcohol, with prominent civet and castoreum (both traditionally animal-derived products), a cluster of musks and with costus root, a plant essence that has an uncanny resemblence to a mix of unwashed human hair, goat smell and dirty socks. The presence of phenolic-smelling, para cresol molecules also indicates a tannery tar & barnyard "stink".
    It's also part of the mysterious urinous & musky allure of Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent (which indeed features a healthy dose of costus under phenyl acetate paracresol). But as much as it was favored during the classic era of perfumery, the traditional Animalis base fell out of favor in the middle of the 1980s.
    Perfumery restrictions, which have axed the use of costus and eradicated the use of real animal ingredients, required a recalibration of the actual formula of Animalis, now allowed to be featured in up to 4% of the compound for perfume making.
    Modern Animalis perfume base includes 10-undecanal, linalool, alpha-pinene, β-Caryophyllene, limonene, heaps of cedrol and cedrene alpha. Mysteriously enough the final result ends up smelling animalic (smelling the fragrances containing it confirms this).
    Synarome currently has not one but two distinct Animalis bases in their arsenal (the breakdown of ingredients above pertains to the first one): Animalis 1745-03 (which is Tonkin musk smelling, which is to say very warm, musky with a leathery nuance) and Animalis 5853 with woody & sensuous notes. The latest version of the former is Animalis 1745-03 TEC. International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) offers a similar competitive product, called Cherval, but that one is less cedary and even more powerful.
    Last edited by Nasenmann; 13th August 2017 at 11:38 AM.
    Currently wearing: Ébène by Pierre Balmain

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Hi All, I have requested a sample of the Firmenich Costus Root Oil and depending on how much I get, would be happy to sample it for a small fee.
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  14. #14

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    I'm not sure I have ever smelled costus root oil, only the absolute and CO2. It would be interesting to try.

    Jamie, if by "costus acid" you mean 4-ethyl octanoic acid, then it is currently available, I believe from Treatt. Christine very kindly helped me get a sample. Maybe she has some left, or if not I can send you a little of mine. It certainly smells of costus. Very strong, but in an oddly subtle way; no top note.

    I was looking to get Costaulon too, which I believe was the undiluted form of Costausol from PFW. Sadly, it seems this material is now discontinued.

    Firmenich have a costus base too, I think I have a little sample from Liaison Carbone. As far as I remember, it had a nice opening, seemed to have a guaiac-like note, different from the IFF base (which seems to me quite mossy) but didn't last as long as you might expect. I would have to test it again though.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    I made a mistake above - it is the Costus CO2 which isn't good for perfume use - not the absolute.

  16. #16
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Costausol is available from PA, I bought. It's very interesting material but I don't understand why you need it undeluted ? It's strong enough and I consider it usage in trace.
    Last edited by Serg Ixygon; 14th August 2017 at 07:30 AM.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    Costausol is available from PA, I bought. It's very interesting material but I don't understand why you need it undeluted ? It's strong enough and I consider it usage in trace.
    I bought it there too. But I'm told that PFW, the manufacturers, have discontinued it. So as they say, when it's gone, it's gone.

    For me, it's not that strong. I would use it in more than traces, certainly for anything animalic, and especially if I was making a base to be incorporated into another finished fragrance. So Costausol at 10% of the formula could become Costaulon at 1%, making more room for other things. But never mind, I'll get by without it.

  18. #18
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Is cedrol itself odorless?

  19. #19

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    Is cedrol itself odorless?
    No, it has a woody odour, somewhat like Cedarwood.

  20. #20
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Thanks, David. Does it have a practical use in perfumery? THere is another AC - Cedanol - is it different or about the same?
    Last edited by Serg Ixygon; 15th August 2017 at 06:39 AM.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Costus Ollifac vs Costus Synarome

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    Thanks, David. Does it have a practical use in perfumery? THere is another AC - Cedanol - is it different or about the same?
    It's an extract of Cedarwood. A bit like Vetiverol and Vetiver. I do not know Cedanol.

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