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  1. #1

    Default Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Auram international is the company of Arcadi Boix Camps who is often mentioned here. I wonít go into too much detail about the company or the man (though everyone needs to own his book Perfumery, Techniques in Evolution) except to say that he produces some of the most extraordinary bases available on the market to perfumers today and is very nearly the only source for 100% original vintage bases like dianthine, mousse de saxe (Kevin Verspoor also makes a version of this), ambreine samuelson, etc.

    If I am permitted, I would like to post a few small reviews of some of Auramís bases here. I am quite busy with my business (non-perfumery) but I will try to post a review as often as I can spend time evaluating the samples (I purchased over 40 bases so there is a lot to review).

    For my first review I am going to discuss Musk Tonkin, because there is really no single excellent complete deer musk replacer on the market today outside of Auram.

    Musk Tonkin 4768-6/D

    This is Auramís tonquin musk replacer (they also make a tibetan deer musk replacer which is also beautiful). It is full strength like musk absolute so you can dilute it to a tincture level, or use it straight (something that did occasionally occur in vintage perfumery). This is a scientifically accurate reproduction. I should also mention that they make Tonkin Musk 10236-2/D which is an animalic base (rather than a scientific reconstitution). To my nose the 10236-2/D has a labdanum like note, whereas 4768-6D is just pure tonkin musk.

    This is hands down the best tonkin musk on the market today. It has the odour of long-aged tincture. I own a fair amount of genuine tonkin tincture (aged a few years) and this base of Auramís is better than that. Imagine aging your tincture for a few decades - this is what you would get. No single white musk comes remotely close to this. And the likes of shangralide and tonquitone are poor imitations by comparison.

    As for its effect on a perfume. I used 0.5% pure (quite a big dose - though far less than the original musk tincture in Chanel No 5) in a violet perfume I am working on. The base is mainly white musks with some fruity naturals (black currant, etc), a touch of Rose Cetylia, a couple of other vintage bases (Irrozol, bouvardia de Laire, ambreine samuelson, opoponax doux, etc.). It also has an overdose of iralia (methyl ionone). The difference is not subtle; it is extraordinary. When the musk is added and the entire mix rested for an hour, the odour profile remains the same (albeit with a very slight animalic note and a better blended effect) but it explodes from the bottle. This is the single most diffusive ingredient I have ever experienced. Forget the likes of fixateur or muscone on its own - this musk is astonishing.

    My recommendation is that you buy this and use it in everything you do. I also strongly recommend the ambergris 44903/D for a beautiful ambergris note (absolutely true to nature) but more on that in another review.

    If you are particularly interested in hearing about a specific base, let me know and Iíll do that for the next review.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    How does one make purchases from Auram? Is there a retail website? Thanks.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by I.D.Adam View Post
    How does one make purchases from Auram? Is there a retail website? Thanks.
    You can email them here: auram@auraminternational.com

    I'll put that on future reviews too

  4. #4

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Sounds lovely; thanks for the review.
    By the way, I've always wondered why the sigla/identifiers of his bases always end with the letter D. Any explanation?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post
    Sounds lovely; thanks for the review.
    By the way, I've always wondered why the sigla/identifiers of his bases always end with the letter D. Any explanation?
    Actually I am not sure - I always presumed they were internal codes for versions - I'll ask him. I believe there is going to be a new website launch soon with new unified codes for the various products so my future reviews won't include serial numbers - just names for now.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by jfrater View Post
    You can email them here: auram@auraminternational.com

    I'll put that on future reviews too
    So you think they're ok selling to individuals? Cause I'd like to give them a try....as long as it's not cost prohibitive.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by Pharmacist_Blender View Post
    So you think they're ok selling to individuals? Cause I'd like to give them a try....as long as it's not cost prohibitive.
    It is pricey and they do have minimum orders but you can negotiate directly with them. They definitely will sell to individuals. Also, just to be clear, they supply all the bases as 100% original - they do not modify these to comply with IFRA or any national laws. But I am pretty certain they can make you special orders if you want something to comply with your country's cosmetics rules or even IFRA - but then you could just buy the latest hedione/galaxolide riddled bases from the big five

    Edited to say: not all the bases are expensive - some are because they have large amounts of floral absolutes or mysore sandalwood, but some (such as their Jasmin Grandiflorum replacer which is as good as any jasmin absolute are very well priced - particularly given the high quality!)

  8. #8

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by jfrater View Post
    You can email them here: auram@auraminternational.com
    And if you get a reply you are obviously more important than me.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade View Post
    And if you get a reply you are obviously more important than me.
    Arcadi spends a lot of time traveling around the world so there may be a delay due to that.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    I enquired about samples of their ambergris reconstructions a couple of times over the past six months or so and got no reply.

    Not to worry, I probably wouldn't be able to afford them anyway. Would have been interesting to smell though.

    Oh and thanks for sharing your review.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Thanks Jamie for the information and the interesting review. I look forward to more of your thoughts on other offerings. I appreciate your passion to dive deep into these older formula and bases. Do you know if there is any sort of listing or catalog for what Auram offers? I can't see anything on the website.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by julian35 View Post
    Thanks Jamie for the information and the interesting review. I look forward to more of your thoughts on other offerings. I appreciate your passion to dive deep into these older formula and bases. Do you know if there is any sort of listing or catalog for what Auram offers? I can't see anything on the website.
    Alas no - not at this point. But if there is something you are particularly interested in let me know and I'll let you know what I can find out.

    Having said that, Auram can produce pretty much any vintage base that was ever used and of course makes their own magnificent modern bases and essential oil replicas. Their French Jasmin Grandiflorum is as good as jasmin absolute - it is my go-to jasmin now and hugely cheaper than actual absolute (of which French is nearly impossible to obtain).

  13. #13

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    "It is full strength like musk absolute"

    could you explain what musk absolute is?

    "This is a scientifically accurate reproduction"

    how could this be possible?

    the minor constituents are not available

    "I own a fair amount of genuine tonkin tincture (aged a few years)"

    while it could be musk grains tinctured, it would be impossible for it to be genuine tonquin.
    in the first place there is no such thing as tonquin musk, that was a name given to the musk pods coming from one tribe
    and their method of processing the pods decades ago, that tribe peoples have long passed.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by luigi_g View Post
    "It is full strength like musk absolute"

    could you explain what musk absolute is?

    "This is a scientifically accurate reproduction"

    how could this be possible?

    the minor constituents are not available

    "I own a fair amount of genuine tonkin tincture (aged a few years)"

    while it could be musk grains tinctured, it would be impossible for it to be genuine tonquin.
    in the first place there is no such thing as tonquin musk, that was a name given to the musk pods coming from one tribe
    and their method of processing the pods decades ago, that tribe peoples have long passed.
    Musk resin is the term i should have used probably. My understanding is that it would be the same as extracting the ethanol from a tincture - the resin that is left behind is the "absolute".

    It is scientifically accurate in that it is made of the constituents that are available (including some that may not be available on the general market but do exist) and it is not a "fantasy" type musk base like shangralide for example.

    To get a musk tincture that mimics a vintage musk tincture you dilute this product in ethanol - at 2%, 3%, etc.

    The deer musk tincture I have is from deer in tonkin (Vietnam) which was the source of the name as far as I am aware. I believe it was named for the deer from the region not the human's who harvested those pods. Just as tibetan musk was not named for Mr and Mrs Tibet, but the fact that the pods were harvest from Deer in Tibet.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Hi ,
    i have small amount of Auram Deer Musk 44570/D and it is very very strong and weird smelling blend. I have diluted it to 1% and tried it with my sandalwood fragrance ( 0.03% in concentrate ). Even at this small concentration strongly improved diffusion and amplified sandalwood notes.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by Milhaus View Post
    Hi ,
    i have small amount of Auram Deer Musk 44570/D and it is very very strong and weird smelling blend. I have diluted it to 1% and tried it with my sandalwood fragrance ( 0.03% in concentrate ). Even at this small concentration strongly improved diffusion and amplified sandalwood notes.
    I believe that one is the Musk Tibet reconstruction. It is extremely beautiful - in fact my mother and sister preferred its odour over the musk tonkin when they sampled both side by side. I prefer the tonkin myself but the tibet is really amazing as well and I have used it in one perfume.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Are these his own interpretations? I also have the real thing and it would be very interesting to compare them. The site is a fine maze....
    The PONK club - gymnosium for perfumers (NOTE:- All club matters still on hold whilst I care for my dad now.)

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  18. #18

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by mumsy View Post
    Are these his own interpretations? I also have the real thing and it would be very interesting to compare them. The site is a fine maze....
    These are meant to be scientifically based - replicating as best as possible (with existing ingredients) the actual musk.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    I'm Wondering if Christine at perfumer Supply House is or could order from these people. I doubt many of us are big enough to be able to deal with them, but I for one would certainly buy small amounts. Sounds wonderful.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Hi All,
    I am working with Arcadi Boix Camps to find a way to make these available commercially.

    There are hundreds of bases to choose from so its been rather slow, but with Jamie's help and some feedback I am getting from perfumers in the industry, I should be able to have about 25 of them available in about a month's time (fingers crossed!!). The best scenario is to sell some larger quantities to big companies which will enable me to make smaller quantities available to the independent community.

    I will keep you updated!
    Christine
    Christine Daley
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    JOIN MY MAILING LIST AND DON'T MISS ANOTHER SALE!

  21. #21

    Default Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Fantastic news Christine. Thank you
    And thanks Jamie for bringing this forward.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Last edited by julian35; 8th September 2016 at 05:36 AM.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumerSupplyHouse View Post
    Hi All,
    I am working with Arcadi Boix Camps to find a way to make these available commercially.

    There are hundreds of bases to choose from so its been rather slow, but with Jamie's help and some feedback I am getting from perfumers in the industry, I should be able to have about 25 of them available in about a month's time (fingers crossed!!). The best scenario is to sell some larger quantities to big companies which will enable me to make smaller quantities available to the independent community.

    I will keep you updated!
    Christine
    Christine,
    Has anyone told you lately that you are wonderful?

    Thank you so much for allowing us to experience professional and rare products as small producers and learners.

    I will be very excited to see these new products.
    I must start saving...

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Hello Jamie ,
    Can you know something about the
    Base orriside 40770/d
    It's was an originally base Laire ? Givaudan?
    In wait with big interest ...
    Thanks in advance

    Tatania ....
    Last edited by Iris gris; 30th August 2017 at 03:07 AM. Reason: Name error

  24. #24

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Interesting to come back to this thread. Once again, thanks to Christine for making some of these bases available for evaluation to those who want to. I don't see this one offered on her website, but it sounds wonderful. I was surprised though at the cost of these bases even at a 10% dilution - which i am sure is reflecting the prices charged by Auram.. The jasmine base for example seems more expensive than jasmine absolute. Is it better than jasmine absolute?
    Last edited by Clare30; 30th August 2017 at 03:49 PM.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by Iris gris View Post
    Hello Jamie ,
    Can you know something about the
    Base orriside 40770/d
    It's was an originally base Laire ? Givaudan?
    In wait with big interest ...
    Thanks in advance

    Tatania ....
    Hey Tatania,

    All I can say is it was fundamental to Iris Gris (in fact perhaps the only thing that mattered in that perfume). Given your username I presume that's why you're asking Auram makes it and can sell it to you but they do have minimum orders required. I am not sure which company originally created it.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by Clare30 View Post
    Interesting to come back to this thread. Once again, thanks to Christine for making some of these bases available for evaluation to those who want to. I don't see this one offered on her website, but it sounds wonderful. I was surprised though at the cost of these bases even at a 10% dilution - which i am sure is reflecting the prices charged by Auram.. The jasmine base for example seems more expensive than jasmine absolute. Is it better than jasmine absolute?
    I have the jasmin absolute by Auram. At 1kg it was enormously cheaper than absolute and virtually indistinguishable from a natural oil. In fact it was cheap enough that I can use it at well over 10% of a few perfume formula I have. I suspect Christine is having to price this way because of scarcity and demand.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Hello Jamie ,
    Thanks your fast response,
    Can you send me in pm .. the adresse for ordering
    Or an phone number to contact the company for this specific question
    , because no phone or pesonal information on
    Facebook page and official website!!!
    Thanks in andvance
    Tatania

  28. #28

    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Quote Originally Posted by Iris gris View Post
    Hello Jamie ,
    Thanks your fast response,
    Can you send me in pm .. the adresse for ordering
    Or an phone number to contact the company for this specific question
    , because no phone or pesonal information on
    Facebook page and official website!!!
    Thanks in andvance
    Tatania
    auram@auraminternational.com - nice and easy to remember

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Interesting, have to check which bases Christine still has in stock. The musk recreations sound wonderful!
    Arcadi has posted in a rage on fb some weeks back, when he was frustrated by constant requests for selling formulas, that he might even raise minimum order quantities. Hope he did not.
    The synthetic perfume materials are supposed to enhance and support the use of natural raw materials, not to replace them, nor in any way to beat them off the market. The synthetic chemicals present a certain challenge to nature, and the perfumer can assist nature in her fight by utilizing the synthetic materials to the advantage of the natural raw materials. (S. Arctander)
    Currently wearing: Snuff by Elsa Schiaparelli

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    Bumping this thread -- very interesting!

    I'm wondering if Christine had success sourcing Arcadi's bases?




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