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  1. #91
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Is there a Basenotes equivalent for wine?

    What would be really nice are some Pomerol splits. A few decants arriving in the mail periodically.

  2. #92
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post
    It is my understanding that Parker fell in love with wine via the 1982 Bordeaux, which were huge all the way down to fifth rank Chateaux. Same happened to me. I like what he likes, but one thing's for sure: his really big wines flatten any food that gets in their way.
    If I remember correctly, he did some studying in France (I think he was a law student), and the Wine Advocate started some time in the 70'ies, but I can absolutely buy being seduced by a Bordeaux from a top vintage, the depth, density and intensity can be immense, yet still hold some measure of distinguished elegance and purity.

    And I agree, those bombastic wines can be hard to pair with food, as you need something that both matches the flavour, yet also can go a couple of rounds with its intensity.

    This reminds me, I really need to save up for some good Bordeaux...

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Is there a Basenotes equivalent for wine?

    What would be really nice are some Pomerol splits. A few decants arriving in the mail periodically.
    This is where tastings come in handy, as you can broaden your horizon and educate your palate for a small sum, compared to what it would cost if you had to find and purchase those precious drops yourself.
    Last edited by Norstrøm; 12th May 2017 at 05:49 PM.
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  3. #93
    Super Member Jaysin5506's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    I own Bigarade Concentrée & La Parfum De Thérèse.. they both are really good.

    I want Musc Ravaguer, Vétiver Extraordinaire, Carnal Flower, Cologne Indelible
    Currently wearing: Feuilles Vertes by Creed

  4. #94

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    From the book, I wouldn't say that he was not impressed. I think he was, and says so. Most were 4 stars, except a couple. But he didn't give any 5 star masterpiece, perhaps because none was unique or original enough.

    As for me, Vetiver extraordinaire gets close to being a perfect vetiver (though it's true vetiver, per se, is not particularly innovative). And I'd say Portrait of lady deserves the masterpiece ranking (this was not ranked in the book).

    As with guerlain and any other brand, I suspect some will suffer some ratings change post reformulation.

    cacio
    Haven’t tried VE yet, but agreed POAL deserves a 5-star. And based on a chat with The Perfume Society, it appears Luca thought it a masterwork as well—his impressions focused on Ropion’s extraordinary talents.

  5. #95

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    I think Superstitious is as nice as Monsieur is horrible

    More misses than hits is my verdict

    Ok, POAL is good, but there are equally nice rose fragrances out there at a fraction of the price imo
    What other roses do you think compare favorably? I love POAL, but the price hurts. What else should I try?

  6. #96
    Basenotes Institution L'Homme Blanc Individuel's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Bigarade Concentrée: I keep going back and forth on this one. Some days, I love it. On others, I don't. And it reminds me so much of Declaration that I'd have trouble justifying the price.

    Cologne Indélébile: I was surprised by how much this one did absolutely NOTHING for me. I only had a sample, but it seemed dull, and the base was cheap & scratchy.

    I don't think I've tried Cologne Bigarade yet. I need to sample that one. I also still haven't tried Musc Ravageur. I have a feeling I'd like it, but I'm also 99% sure it wouldn't suit me, which means I'd never reach for it.
    Current Favorites (in no particular order)
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    Currently wearing: H.M. by Hanae Mori

  7. #97

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Reading though this thread was a treat. Wish I'd been here at Basenotes 3-4 years ago. Seems like it was a very different place.

  8. #98

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Pmrp View Post
    What other roses do you think compare favorably? I love POAL, but the price hurts. What else should I try?
    Egoiste
    Paul Smith Rose
    Paestum Rose
    Opone
    Rose d'Homme and Rosissimo --- both by Parfums de Rosine

    I also love Rose of No Mans Land by Byredo -- but not sure if this is cheaper than POAL

  9. #99

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Pmrp View Post
    What other roses do you think compare favorably? I love POAL, but the price hurts. What else should I try?
    Diptyque Eau Capitale is very close, but cheaper.
    Watch my recent video review of
    Guerlain L'Homme Ideal - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-PW_V1G0aw

  10. #100

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    Egoiste
    Paul Smith Rose
    Paestum Rose
    Opone
    Rose d'Homme and Rosissimo --- both by Parfums de Rosine

    I also love Rose of No Mans Land by Byredo -- but not sure if this is cheaper than POAL
    To my nose, Paul Smith Rose is absolutely different (smooth, feminine, May rose soliflore) and can't be compared to PoAL at all.

    I do really agree on Rose of No Mans Land and it is definitely a bit cheaper.
    Watch my recent video review of
    Guerlain L'Homme Ideal - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-PW_V1G0aw

  11. #101
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Reading though this thread was a treat. Wish I'd been here at Basenotes 3-4 years ago. Seems like it was a very different place.
    IT was a very different place!

  12. #102

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Bravo Colin. In my personal experience with USA life---generalizing, of course---there's a prevalent notion (sacrosanct, I'd say) that "everyone's entitled to (sic) their own opinion." Sure. However, it unfortunately doesn't end there.

    Again, in my experience, the idea that all opinions are not equal tends to make people uncomfortable here. This is interesting because it seems obvious that people have different expertise (and often no expertise). For much more on this, see one of my favorite books...a book that makes people extraordinarily uncomfortable, The Revolt of the Masses by Ortega y Gasset.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ortega y Gasset
    The characteristic of the hour is that the commonplace mind, knowing itself to be commonplace, has the assurance to proclaim the rights of the commonplace and to impose them wherever it will. As they say in the United States: "to be different is to be indecent." The mass crushes beneath it everything that is different, everything that is excellent, individual, qualified and select. Anybody who is not like everybody, who does not think like everybody, runs the risk of being eliminated.
    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Maillard View Post
    Because the whole point of reviewing is not about liking stuff. It's just a matter of broadening your perspective and knowledge about fragrances, by means of comparisons, insights and thoughtful considerations provided by people who are (supposedly) skilled and qualified for that. And this set of abilities does not come natural to you just because you own a nose, just like having hands does not make you a surgeon (unless you only "trust your own hands" when it comes to your appendicitis). You get that with studying (both history and theory), and with practicing and training your nostrils to recognize and correlate smells and materials. Is your background the same as Luca Turin's? If yes, then - cool! If not, well then no, having a nose does not make you equal tu Luca Turin when it comes to discussing fragrances and assessing their objective qualities.
    "I'm sure there are things that you like that someone else here dislikes."
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    Currently wearing: Allure Homme by Chanel

  13. #103
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    After testing all of the quite extensively, the only 2 i got full bottles of were cologne indelible and vetiver extraordinaire. Of which the former barely gets any wear.musc ravageur really grew on me but the mrs wouldnt have it!

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    1. Sandalo by Lorenzo Villoresi
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    6. Colonia by Acqua di Parma
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    9. Moon Safari by Memo
    10. Pour Homme by Paco Robanne

  14. #104

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Krycek View Post
    Bravo Colin. In my personal experience with USA life---generalizing, of course---there's a prevalent notion (sacrosanct, I'd say) that "everyone's entitled to (sic) their own opinion." Sure. However, it unfortunately doesn't end there.

    Again, in my experience, the idea that all opinions are not equal tends to make people uncomfortable here. This is interesting because it seems obvious that people have different expertise (and often no expertise). For much more on this, see one of my favorite books...a book that makes people extraordinarily uncomfortable, The Revolt of the Masses by Ortega y Gasset.
    All opinions aren't created equal. But it's equally true that developed critics can become fascinated by conceptual/analytical aspects in a way that becomes its own obsession, and that "expertise" can become an ouroboros where a critic becomes so enmeshed in their own critical frameworks that it's all that they can see.

    See, for example, the world of academic literary criticism, which is kind of an entirely separate enterprise from the act of reading for the pleasure of reading. Still a valuable enterprise, to a point, but not one that should be beyond question.

    So authority and expertise, valuable though they are, are not trump cards. The best experts are still marked by humility.

  15. #105

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by AntonPan View Post
    Diptyque Eau Capitale is very close, but cheaper.
    AntonPan is right on. Eau capitale is similiar (though frankly not nearly as good).

  16. #106

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    So authority and expertise, valuable though they are, are not trump cards. The best experts are still marked by humility.
    Holy words! Thanks Brooks.

  17. #107
    The Devil in the Details
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Reading though this thread was a treat. Wish I'd been here at Basenotes 3-4 years ago. Seems like it was a very different place.
    Basenotes was still waist-deep Aventus shills, but the "compliments/beast mode/fresh and modern" fragrance army types hadn't yet invaded because Jeremy Fragrance hadn't reached the apex in his YouTube activities. There was more of the "old guard" keeping an air of academia here (for example, folks like Colin above were still active in forums), but at the cost of being not so approachable to newcomers, which is how Fragrantica forums got so big. All the kids wanting to know where to go next after their first designer experiences ran over there.

    Now most of those old esteemed names have moved onto private blogs or stopped talking perfume in general, or make the rare cameo guest star post here when envoked like Beetlejuice (keep saying his name...), but the overall environment here is really segregated, particularly in men's perfume. You're either a vintage gang member, an artisanal gang member, a luxury/niche boyo, or someone who is all about one brand (e.g. Creed or Guerlain). We don't get many compliment bro types here because they get chased off by all the vintage/artisanal/luxury hardline talk, but they exist.

    I guess where Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle fits into all this is it's expensive enough to register as "quality" to the luxury guys, and has been around enough for reformulations the vintage guys can argue about, and also makes a good punching bag for artisanal fans who are obsessed with naturals and anyone resenting the current state of niche perfume as basically where designers once were creatively but with 3 times the price tag. In this last regard I side with Turin, even if he initially praised the line in 2004. We're all allowed to change our mind.

    I lurked since 2012 here and let me tell you, the talk about perfume was more "elevated" in some ways, but also stifling and pretentious in others, as it can sometimes be now. The only difference was the people with the big learned opinions also engaged in forums as well as wrote reviews. Now the reviewers write reviews but don't socialize, while a lot of people socializing don't give 2 shakes about what reviews are written or by whom anyway, since everyone is so cordoned off in their own schools of thought. The only time "gang colors" mingle is to argue, and when folks with a background in the industry wade in, they get torn apart. Just my 2 cents.
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  18. #108

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    Basenotes was still waist-deep Aventus shills, but the "compliments/beast mode/fresh and modern" fragrance army types hadn't yet invaded because Jeremy Fragrance hadn't reached the apex in his YouTube activities. There was more of the "old guard" keeping an air of academia here (for example, folks like Colin above were still active in forums), but at the cost of being not so approachable to newcomers, which is how Fragrantica forums got so big. All the kids wanting to know where to go next after their first designer experiences ran over there.

    Now most of those old esteemed names have moved onto private blogs or stopped talking perfume in general, or make the rare cameo guest star post here when envoked like Beetlejuice (keep saying his name...), but the overall environment here is really segregated, particularly in men's perfume. You're either a vintage gang member, an artisanal gang member, a luxury/niche boyo, or someone who is all about one brand (e.g. Creed or Guerlain). We don't get many compliment bro types here because they get chased off by all the vintage/artisanal/luxury hardline talk, but they exist.

    I guess where Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle fits into all this is it's expensive enough to register as "quality" to the luxury guys, and has been around enough for reformulations the vintage guys can argue about, and also makes a good punching bag for artisanal fans who are obsessed with naturals and anyone resenting the current state of niche perfume as basically where designers once were creatively but with 3 times the price tag. In this last regard I side with Turin, even if he initially praised the line in 2004. We're all allowed to change our mind.

    I lurked since 2012 here and let me tell you, the talk about perfume was more "elevated" in some ways, but also stifling and pretentious in others, as it can sometimes be now. The only difference was the people with the big learned opinions also engaged in forums as well as wrote reviews. Now the reviewers write reviews but don't socialize, while a lot of people socializing don't give 2 shakes about what reviews are written or by whom anyway, since everyone is so cordoned off in their own schools of thought. The only time "gang colors" mingle is to argue, and when folks with a background in the industry wade in, they get torn apart. Just my 2 cents.
    Astute analysis all around.




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