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  1. #1

    Default Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Kind of old news but after a search nothing came up so ill start this for discussions sake.
    i was surprised but not really to see that Luca wasn't impressed with the Frederic Malle range and didn't award a single 5 stars to any of the house perfumes. He goes on to say they're all good but not a single keeper let alone masterpiece and the brand could have done better with the line of perfumers he used. From all, Noir Epices was his favourite.
    So the question here is, do you agree or disagree and if so which, if any would you award 5 stars to?
    Personally, i would have given Parfum de Therese a 5 star.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Musc rav

  3. #3

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    I agree with his assessment for himself. As to whether I would blind buy based upon his recommendations, the answer is a "big no." I would want more than that, such as several other reviews and notes that I like (though at these prices I'd have to sample first, unless it was a swap).

  4. #4
    Basenotes Junkie Twilight99's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Yes. After many samples I have not found any worthy of a purchase.

    Except Musc Ravageur. But after reports of major reformulation and gutting of the performance, I decided not to buy this one either.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Peckerhead View Post
    Luca wasn't impressed with the Frederic Malle range and didn't award a single 5 stars to any of the house perfumes. He goes on to say they're all good but not a single keeper let alone masterpiece and the brand could have done better
    This is exactly my take on the house also. I've never understood what all the fuss was about, to be honest...

  6. #6
    Basenotes Institution dougczar's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    The only one I would give a 5-star to would be Vetiver Extraordinaire.
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  7. #7
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    I agree with Turin. No 5 Stars here. Good fragrances but lacking in emotional appeal.

    IMHO the Frederic Malle house suffers from a lack of brand identity due to its emotion-free, curatorial approach. Hire a bunch of noses and let them do their thing. There's no creative direction. As a fan of Malle scents incl. Vetiver Extraordinaire, French Lover, Carnal Flower, Iris Poudre, etc I just can't seem to muster the same level of enthusiasm for Malle the house.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Peckerhead View Post
    Kind of old news but after a search nothing came up so ill start this for discussions sake.
    i was surprised but not really to see that Luca wasn't impressed with the Frederic Malle range and didn't award a single 5 stars to any of the house perfumes. He goes on to say they're all good but not a single keeper let alone masterpiece and the brand could have done better with the line of perfumers he used. From all, Noir Epices was his favourite.
    So the question here is, do you agree or disagree and if so which, if any would you award 5 stars to?
    Personally, i would have given Parfum de Therese a 5 star.
    I'm more with Peckerhead on this one. Noir Epices, to me, is the worst fragrance in the line. Parfum de Therese is an interesting one, I like it. I also like Une Fleur de Cassie and Portrait of a Lady.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Luca Turin has a nose.

    So do you.

    Trust YOURS.
    I smell marshmallows!
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  10. #10
    Dependent RedRaider430's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    I agree...no 5 stars that I've smelled.

    Vetiver Extraordinaire and Bigarade Concentree are my favorites, but I wound up selling both of them.
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  11. #11

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by VanillaCloud View Post
    Luca Turin has a nose.

    So do you.

    Trust YOURS.
    ^ This.
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    i could not go without Malle's Monsieur.

    Luca Turin is an odd guy, his views are entertaining but they are not indicative of majority views. His recommendations are a bit pointless to follow, but he discovered Tauer's LDDM so there is a certain invincibility that came with that.
    Currently wearing: The Dreamer by Versace

  13. #13

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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    From the book, I wouldn't say that he was not impressed. I think he was, and says so. Most were 4 stars, except a couple. But he didn't give any 5 star masterpiece, perhaps because none was unique or original enough.

    As for me, Vetiver extraordinaire gets close to being a perfect vetiver (though it's true vetiver, per se, is not particularly innovative). And I'd say Portrait of lady deserves the masterpiece ranking (this was not ranked in the book).

    As with guerlain and any other brand, I suspect some will suffer some ratings change post reformulation.

    cacio

  14. #14
    Basenotes Institution rynegne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    This...but I'd go with a 4.5. The rest of the line I've tried was good...but nothing too memorable. Thought Dries Van Noten was "up there" too but a solid 4.

    Quote Originally Posted by dougczar View Post
    The only one I would give a 5-star to would be Vetiver Extraordinaire.
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  15. #15

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    "Luca Turin is an odd guy, his views are entertaining but they are not indicative of majority views. His recommendations are a bit pointless to follow, but he discovered Tauer's LDDM so there is a certain invincibility that came with that."

    I have never claimed to express a majority view, nor it is my intention to be "invincible". As for odd, have we met?
    Last edited by luca turin; 9th May 2017 at 06:22 AM.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post

    I have never claimed to express a majority view, nor it is my intention to be "invincible". As for odd, have we met?
    Hello Mr. Turin. Will you update us with a brief thought on Portrait of a Lady?
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    ...The Frédéric Malle line is mainly overpriced mediocrity: for me the only one that at least has a nice opening is l'Eau d'Hiver: unfortunately it dies after half an hour...!
    Currently wearing: Oud Immortel by Byredo

  18. #18

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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Carnal Flower, Une Fleur de Cassie & Une Rose all get 5 stars from me. All modern classics, stunningly beautiful, & outstanding examples of their respective notes.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    It was reading The Guide that turned me onto Frederic Malle's line, and (if I recall correctly) part of the reason I was intrigued was the 'backstory' - that Malle (a) contacted perfumers who might have ad something that didn't get picked up but they personally stood by, and (b) that he put their names on the bottles - which, to this day, I think is cool.

    Whatever - we each have our own criteria for judging a perfume . . . so be it.

    I own quite a few, (mercifully the earlier editions) but even now some of them stand up despite any tweaks that may have been made due to the clowns and fools in the EU regulatory department.

    Just a thought, by the way. If you were a well paid, fed and housed scientist working for the EU and your job was to find ingredients in perfumes that MIGHT cause a rash or whatever - at what point do you think you would rush to your employers and say 'We're done here! Thanks for the gig but we can all go home now!'

    I digress.

    Personal faves include: Une Fleur de Cassie, L'Eau d'Hiver (wear it a lot in winter - gone thru countless bottles), Noir Epices, Carnal Flower, Geranium Pour Monsieur and Lipstick Rose (my office manager wears it as her 'signature' and it's fun on her). Not a fan of Portrait of a Lady or the more recent Cologne Indelible or Monsieur (or the relaunched Outrageous!).

    Still coming to terms with Superstitious - interesting nuclear rose / dirty white lily kinda thing. Yet another towering edifice from Mr. Ropion

    I reckon Carnal Flower & Une Fleur de Cassie warrant 5 Stars, FWIW, but not losing any sleep over it.
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  20. #20

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Twilight99 View Post
    Yes. After many samples I have not found any worthy of a purchase.

    Except Musc Ravageur. But after reports of major reformulation and gutting of the performance, I decided not to buy this one either.
    Exactly, I bought MR 7 years ago and was VERY different from now! Others are very good but not worthy considering RPP always growing..
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Francesco View Post
    Exactly, I bought MR 7 years ago and was VERY different from now! Others are very good but not worthy considering RPP always growing..
    My thoughts as well. I used to wear PoAL back then approx. Today's juice appears around ten times lighter than back then. I have gone through a few mind you: PoAL, VE and GPM - I moved on from all of these.

    The only one I own now is French Lover. Totally dry woods that I think is unique enough, given the sugar-syrup-sweet scents out there currently. Not a breathtaker, but a very inobtrusive chypre. Maybe that explain Luca's max 4 stars for the line.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    While not the only nor absolute favorite (not even by personal, subjective standards and rankings), French Lover might definitely be considered on the list
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  23. #23

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Two years ago if users had their top fragrances list attached to their posts it almost always contained Portrait of a Lady. Because of that I got myself a sample. Exquisite scent but I couldn't justify the price.
    “You must have a perfume. A perfume is the perfect type of a perfect pleasure. It is exquisite, and it leaves one unsatisfied. What more can one want?” Oscar Wilde

  24. #24

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Trauerkraut View Post
    The Frédéric Malle line is mainly overpriced mediocrity
    Exactly! It's as much pretentious as mediocre.

    Luca Turin was even too generous in his ratings for this house. It puzzles me that he appreciated Noir Epices most - it's a Troma splatter movie in a bottle for me.
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  25. #25

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    I think Superstitious is as nice as Monsieur is horrible

    More misses than hits is my verdict

    Ok, POAL is good, but there are equally nice rose fragrances out there at a fraction of the price imo

  26. #26
    Dependent Duke Smellington's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    I disagree; it is obvious to me that Mr. Turin does indeed like the line a lot. For example, he raves about the Ropion/Malle fragrances.

    If the Guide were to be updated, perhaps the elusive five star masterpiece rating would be awarded to some of the releases over the past ten years, such as Portrait of a Lady.
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  27. #27
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Good Advice!
    Quote Originally Posted by VanillaCloud View Post
    Luca Turin has a nose.

    So do you.

    Trust YOURS.
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  28. #28
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Duke Smellington View Post
    I disagree; it is obvious to me that Mr. Turin does indeed like the line a lot. For example, he raves about the Ropion/Malle fragrances.

    If the Guide were to be updated, perhaps the elusive five star masterpiece rating would be awarded to some of the releases over the past ten years, such as Portrait of a Lady.
    Perhaps.

    Though some have commented that recent releases of this one are weaker than it was originally (1-2 sprays maximum then, and avoid in the heat). I haven't smelled a recent version to know if this is true or not.

  29. #29
    Dependent NickZee's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    Perhaps.

    Though some have commented that recent releases of this one are weaker than it was originally (1-2 sprays maximum then, and avoid in the heat). I haven't smelled a recent version to know if this is true or not.
    The current formulation is a thin, powdery shadow of the original, hence why it isnt garnering any fresh discussion from new fans.
    Currently wearing: The Dreamer by Versace

  30. #30

    Default Re: Luca Turin on Frederic Malle

    Quote Originally Posted by NickZee View Post
    The current formulation is a thin, powdery shadow of the original, hence why it isnt garnering any fresh discussion from new fans.
    Estee Lauder giving them all a good rinsing out?




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