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  1. #1
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    Default Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Maurice Roucel - “There sometimes is a misconception that Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur is my “musk” fragrance. This is not true; there is no musk in it at all, it is an animalic oriental. Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne is one of the muskiest perfumes on the market and is my musk masterpiece.....”
    https://tinyurl.com/l2g7n6k

    And:

    “......I met Frederic Malle in the 90s, in NYC. He was sent to me by Pierre Bourdon, because at that time Frederic wanted to be an editor of perfume. I told him I had something in my drawer, it was a finalist for Fragile by Jean Paul Gaultier. I gave it to Frederic, and we added a little fresh on the top, and it became Musc Ravageur..."
    https://tinyurl.com/mfenx5g
    Last edited by pluran; 19th May 2017 at 08:41 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    To my nose. MR contains Tonquitone, an animalic base designed to mimic aspects of natural Musk Tonquin. This base certainly contains synthetic musks.
    Perhaps he means the formula includes no synthetic musks as individual ingredients.

  3. #3
    Dependent saminlondon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    M.R. “There sometimes is a misconception that Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur is my “musk” fragrance.
    Mmm, I wonder how that misconception could possibly have arisen?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Interesting! And I love the Helmut Lang . . . cool
    “Anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge.'”
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  5. #5

    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Interesting story.

    MR has never really smelled of musc to me so no surprise other than the misconception of the name.
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  6. #6
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Quote Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post
    To my nose. MR contains Tonquitone, an animalic base designed to mimic aspects of natural Musk Tonquin. This base certainly contains synthetic musks.
    Perhaps he means the formula includes synthetic musks as individual ingredients.
    Sure would be great if we could see the formulas for all these things. I remember Chandler Burr was pushing for that a few years ago.
    Last edited by pluran; 19th May 2017 at 08:10 AM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    Mmm, I wonder how that misconception could possibly have arisen?
    Ha. No shit.

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Interesting! And I love the Helmut Lang . . . cool
    .
    Great to see you around mr. reasonable !

    Quote Originally Posted by adam090273 View Post
    Interesting story.

    MR has never really smelled of musc to me so no surprise other than the misconception of the name.
    Me neither, but supposedly everyone is anosmic to certain musks. I always thought MR had the feel of something with a drop of civet in it, but who knows. It never came across as something all that animalic but it sure smells good today. :-) Weird how orientals often work best in warmer weather. Hell, I've been wearing A*Men lately !
    Last edited by pluran; 19th May 2017 at 08:32 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    I remember back in the day when Musc Ravageur was first released. So many on the perfume forums going nuts over it, best musk fragrance ever etc! I finally got a sample and it was 'Okay, so what I am missing?' It was a pleasant fragrance but I considered Coty Wild Musk better, nothing earth shattering or outstanding.
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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    I remember back in the day when Musc Ravageur was first released. So many on the perfume forums going nuts over it, best musk fragrance ever etc! I finally got a sample and it was 'Okay, so what I am missing?' It was a pleasant fragrance but I considered Coty Wild Musk better, nothing earth shattering or outstanding.
    I've also not got the fuss about it, having tried it here in the UK several times.

    But last year I had an epiphany. I tried it whilst on holiday in the Mediterranean heat bang in the middly of July. Gorgeous scent. No comparison. Still not earth-shattering but way better in the summer heat than what I could imagine here in the UK.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Whatever it has, I love it and will always be in my collection.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    animalic? Hmmm

    This is almost a dissertation on MR by Kafkaesque -- very good indeed imo

    http://www.kafkaesqueblog.com/2014/1...musc-ravageur/

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    I thought the same thing.

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    I remember back in the day when Musc Ravageur was first released. So many on the perfume forums going nuts over it, best musk fragrance ever etc! I finally got a sample and it was 'Okay, so what I am missing?' It was a pleasant fragrance but I considered Coty Wild Musk better, nothing earth shattering or outstanding.
    MadHat Scents

    Brineapple (Pineapple, Guava, Ylang Ylang, Marine Notes, Green Tea, Cade, Guaiacwood, Cedar Wood, Ozone) / Fur - (Vintage Musks, Woods, Leather) / Onsen Wood (Hinoki/Hiba/Cedar/Yuzu) / Vert Moss (Oakmoss Absolute, Cologne, Vetiver, Incense, Cedar) / L.O.M. Leather Oud Musk (Leather, Oud, Musk, Beeswax, Tobacco, Strawberry, Incense & Amber)

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    I found this more interesting than the musk info:

    “......I met Frederic Malle in the 90s, in NYC. He was sent to me by Pierre Bourdon, because at that time Frederic wanted to be an editor of perfume.
    I told him I had something in my drawer, it was a finalist for Fragile by Jean Paul Gaultier. I gave it to Frederic, and we added a little fresh on the top, and it became Musc Ravageur..."
    https://tinyurl.com/mfenx5g


    Last edited by pluran; 20th May 2017 at 01:39 AM.

  14. #14

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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Interesting. Hard to believe that there is no molecule of the musk class in MR. Perhaps he means that it is not predominantly musky, which is certainly the case, as he said, it's more a spicy oriental, after the opening.

    Not a fan of Lang edc, so evidently not a fan, or anosmic, to the big musk contained therein.

    cacio

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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Interesting. Hard to believe that there is no molecule of the musk class in MR. Perhaps he means that it is not predominantly musky, which is certainly the case, as he said, it's more a spicy oriental, after the opening.

    Not a fan of Lang edc, so evidently not a fan, or anosmic, to the big musk contained therein.

    cacio
    Yes. Hard to believe.

    Helmut Lang EDP is extraordinarily ordinary. The whole thing amounts to little more than a simplistic basenote accord anchoring any number of fairly banal fragrances. But maybe I'm just reading it wrong. mr. reasonable likes it (or the edc?) so it must be better than my perceptions are telling me. :-)

    I never wore Musc Ravageur much because it felt heavier than it needed to be, but it is a hell of a fragrance when I want a substantial oriental. Smelled some on a friend not long ago and it was soft, pungent, stylish, really beguiling.
    Last edited by pluran; 20th May 2017 at 06:34 AM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    pluran, Helmut Lang EdP is indeed nothing special. Powdery, sweet and woolly. Smells nice in a confused way, it lacks a reference point and character. Helmut Lang EdC, then again, is excellent. The herbs and lavender gives it an edge against which the good base (which these fragrances share) suddenly makes sense.

    I don't think Musc Ravageur is particularly musky either. It's almost banal in its directness, but I love it. The first time I smelled it, I thought it was just right. These ingredients together create a scent that is somehow elementary. There is nothing challenging, complex or particularly interesting here. But nothing too much or too little either.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    To me, early in the hobby, it smelled similar to Ambra by Etro, enough so that I had little interest in it, since I hardly ever wore Ambra.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny_Ludlow View Post
    pluran, Helmut Lang EdP is indeed nothing special. Powdery, sweet and woolly. Smells nice in a confused way, it lacks a reference point and character. Helmut Lang EdC, then again, is excellent. The herbs and lavender gives it an edge against which the good base (which these fragrances share) suddenly makes sense.

    I don't think Musc Ravageur is particularly musky either. It's almost banal in its directness, but I love it. The first time I smelled it, I thought it was just right. These ingredients together create a scent that is somehow elementary. There is nothing challenging, complex or particularly interesting here. But nothing too much or too little either.
    Johnny,

    Great to see you around. It's been ten years since I tried the edc. Didn't think much of it then, but as a newbie that probably wasn't surprising. Must try it again because it sounds like something I'd like a lot.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    I would just add that to my nose the musk (or 'musk') element is dialled back in the reformulation, and the spices amped up to compensate.

  20. #20

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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Is roucel talking about the edc or the edp being his muskiest?
    Anyway, not a fan of either. The edp seems closer to Musc Ravageur.

    cacio

  21. #21

    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    I found this more interesting than the musk info:

    “......I met Frederic Malle in the 90s, in NYC. He was sent to me by Pierre Bourdon, because at that time Frederic wanted to be an editor of perfume.
    I told him I had something in my drawer, it was a finalist for Fragile by Jean Paul Gaultier. I gave it to Frederic, and we added a little fresh on the top, and it became Musc Ravageur..."
    https://tinyurl.com/mfenx5g


    That is interesting. Would also be interesting to know how successful it would have been under Gaultier. Even with no discernible musc the name Fragile would have been much less appropriate then the Malle chosen name.
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  22. #22
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Maurice Roucel - “There sometimes is a misconception that Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur is my “musk” fragrance. This is not true; there is no musk in it at all, it is an animalic oriental. Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne is one of the muskiest perfumes on the market and is my musk masterpiece.....”
    https://tinyurl.com/l2g7n6k

    And:

    “......I met Frederic Malle in the 90s, in NYC. He was sent to me by Pierre Bourdon, because at that time Frederic wanted to be an editor of perfume. I told him I had something in my drawer, it was a finalist for Fragile by Jean Paul Gaultier. I gave it to Frederic, and we added a little fresh on the top, and it became Musc Ravageur..."
    https://tinyurl.com/mfenx5g
    Interesting....

    I did find Helmut Lang (I think I tried the EdP) musky, but also rather uninteresting and completely forgot about it.

    I don't think of Musc Ravageur as a 'musk' perfume, though I do detect some musky notes underneath a compelling spicy vanillic oriental. After the dust has settled, it may not be 'musky', 'ravaging', 'complex' or any of that, however - to me at least it is one of the most charming perfumes out there that one can wear. I like perfumes with personalities - and Musc Ravageur treads the thin line between having a voice and wearing the wearer exceedingly well.
    Currently wearing: Full Incense by Montale

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    I always thought MR had the feel of something with a drop of civet in it, but who knows. It never came across as something all that animalic but it sure smells good today. :-) Weird how orientals often work best in warmer weather. Hell, I've been wearing A*Men lately !
    Yes exactly. Though I doubt I would wear MR in warmer weather - maybe to the art museum on a Wednesday evening when it has rained earlier and the air is at once warm, cool, and humid.

    Two that I do, however, are Ambre Sultan and Arabie - complex, dry, warm weather brings out nuances that are lost in the cold, and - like many others from Lutens - work best when worn completely out of context.
    Currently wearing: Full Incense by Montale

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Is roucel talking about the edc or the edp being his muskiest?
    Anyway, not a fan of either. The edp seems closer to Musc Ravageur.

    cacio
    Most of these interviews are so weak. It would be good to ask him about that and a lot of other things.

    Quote Originally Posted by adam090273 View Post
    That is interesting. Would also be interesting to know how successful it would have been under Gaultier. Even with no discernible musc the name Fragile would have been much less appropriate then the Malle chosen name.
    I think he's talking about one of the versions that wasn't chosen by Gautier and whoever decided on the final fragrance. All the white floral stuff doesn't sound anything like Musc Ravageur. Yeah, I doubt you'd have heard as much about it if it was a Gautier named Fragile. Fragile is by Francis Kurkdjian and it's supposedly pretty good for someone who's into that kind of thing.

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    Yes exactly. Though I doubt I would wear MR in warmer weather - maybe to the art museum on a Wednesday evening when it has rained earlier and the air is at once warm, cool, and humid.

    Two that I do, however, are Ambre Sultan and Arabie - complex, dry, warm weather brings out nuances that are lost in the cold, and - like many others from Lutens - work best when worn completely out of context.
    Far out, isn't it? Things like Kouros also start smelling really good when it heats up. Wore some of the vintage stuff the other day. Worn it a million times, but damn that stuff is relentless these days. Really does feel like some kind of "dissolving aqua regia". I think it goes better with some sweat to water it down. Like to mix it with some Kouros Fraicheur also.
    Last edited by pluran; 22nd May 2017 at 06:40 AM.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    MR to me smelled like various bakery products or a bakery. I really didn't find it very animalic or deep, just a very nice rich fragrance.
    I would say that Une Fleur de Cassie is a lot more "dirty" or "animalic" smelling than this one, someone described it as smelling like "sweaty buttcheeks" and I find that somewhat accurate albeit the fragrance as a whole is a lot more than that.
    Last edited by Heawns; Yesterday at 01:47 PM.

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