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Thread: Ashes accord?

  1. #1

    Default Ashes accord?

    I'm really interested in created an ashes accord for a perfume I'm working on, and I know some of our more talented members have used such accords in their work. Would anyone be willing to point me in the right direction regarding how you build that kind of thing?

    Thank you!

  2. #2
    Manuel's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    I'll give it shot. Just for the hell of it:

    Methyl cedryl ketone 4.10
    Sage EO 0.05
    Trimofix 0.30
    Choya nakh EO 0.05
    Cyclamen aldehyde 0.50
    Currently wearing: Derby by Guerlain

  3. #3

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Hey, thanks! Quick question: Which kind of sage? Dalmatian?

  4. #4
    Manuel's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Dalmatian, yes. Tinker with the proportions, but overall you ought to get a "white ash" effect. I've found the above items, minus the choya, remind me of the dry ashy-like top notes in One Man Show.

    If you're looking for something like black charred wood ash you can try

    Cedarwood China 2
    Cedarwood terpenes 1.80
    Norlimbanol 0.50
    Cyclamen aldehyde 0.50
    Galbanum EO 0.20
    Currently wearing: Derby by Guerlain

  5. #5
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Cade oil not rectified is real ash.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    I don't have an accord to hand, but I would say mature cedar, norlimbanol, white sage and guaiaicol would be things I would be reaching for. Maybe traces of birch tar. I've only got rectified cade, but it smells way too oily and rich for ash to me.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    I just wanted to say thank you, Manuel, for the lovely accords you posted. I was missing a lot of things and so tried to do replacements and merge the two together. It's quite lovely and great food for thought .I cant stop sniffing my hand super lovely! I wanted to post my little sketch since it's in the theme. I do have guaiaicol but havnt tried it yet.

    Vetiver Bourbon 2
    Sandalwood FO BB 3
    Clary Sage .05
    Ambroxan .4
    Rectified Birch Tar .05
    Salty Beach ACC RB 2
    Cyclamen Aldehyde 1
    Virginia Cedar 4
    Fossilized Amber 2
    Galbanum .2

  8. #8

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Wow, terrific! Thanks for the help, everyone!

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    Cade oil not rectified is real ash.
    I've only ever seen the rectified stuff. Who carries unrectified cade?

  9. #9

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by Naia View Post
    I just wanted to say thank you, Manuel, for the lovely accords you posted. I was missing a lot of things and so tried to do replacements and merge the two together. It's quite lovely and great food for thought .I cant stop sniffing my hand super lovely! I wanted to post my little sketch since it's in the theme. I do have guaiaicol but havnt tried it yet.

    Vetiver Bourbon 2
    Sandalwood FO BB 3
    Clary Sage .05
    Ambroxan .4
    Rectified Birch Tar .05
    Salty Beach ACC RB 2
    Cyclamen Aldehyde 1
    Virginia Cedar 4
    Fossilized Amber 2
    Galbanum .2
    I'm not familiar with Salty Beach ACC RB 2. What is it?

  10. #10
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Cade oil sold by Liberty Naturals is not labeled as nonrectified but it is so infact. It's crude and black with high viscosity.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Salty Beach accord made by me. It was just made to be as salty dry and oceanic as possible. It doesn't have any Trimofix, Choya nakh, or norlimbanol in it but has plenty of melonal, precyclemone, salicylates, musks, calone, helional, aldehyde c-12 both of them, iso e super, pink grapefruit, clonal, lovage, and styrax. *Shrug

  12. #12

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Salty Beach accord made by me. It was just made to be as salty dry and oceanic as possible. It doesn't have any Trimofix, Choya nakh, or norlimbanol in it but has plenty of melonal, precyclemone, salicylates, musks, calone, helional, aldehyde c-12 both of them, iso e super, pink grapefruit, clonal, lovage, and styrax. *Shrug

  13. #13
    Basenotes Junkie jsparla's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    i've tinctured smoke once, it could be a nice addition to an ash accord...
    https://sites.google.com/site/perfum...h-frankincense
    On my formulation blog, you will find free perfume formulations and accords. We also provide bespoke perfume formulations.

  14. #14
    I drink and I know things Palmolive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Thanks for all the suggestions thus far, the smoke I'm seeking is that of a freshly lit cigarette. Subtle yet persistent at the same time.

    Any ideas?

  15. #15
    Basenotes Junkie jsparla's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by Palmolive View Post
    ... a freshly lit cigarette.
    There is a lot of usable suggestions in the previous posts, but specific for cigarette smoke, you could try stuff like cyclododecyl acetate, clover, tobacco blond absolute, tobacarol, tobacco absolute, kephalis and liatrix absolute.
    I would also try to impart some sweetness, as most tobacco use vanillin et cetera to sweeten up the tobacco.
    I think all the stuff i mentioned is available through creatingperfume.com.

    Let us know how it worked out for you
    Last edited by jsparla; 20th June 2017 at 11:05 AM. Reason: /autocorrect/
    On my formulation blog, you will find free perfume formulations and accords. We also provide bespoke perfume formulations.

  16. #16

  17. #17

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    You could always burn some cigarettes and do sparkla technique of tincturing the smoke maybe??

  18. #18

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Ethyl maltol+eugenol like molecules+woody molecules ( especially blend iso e super+vertofix) with touch of oak moss/evernyl and amber xtreme ( most rough ashy woody amber molecules necessarry cancel other molecules like cashmeran, evernyl) smell in this theme.

  19. #19
    Super Member aestheticindustrialist's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by Naia View Post
    You could always burn some cigarettes and do sparkla technique of tincturing the smoke maybe??
    If one does this you will be tincturing a bunch of carcinogenic chemicals -- and nicotine -- which are absorbed through the skin. Note bene.
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  20. #20

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Good point but it might make a great reference material.

  21. #21
    Super Member
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    A touch of nutmeg e.o.....

  22. #22
    Super Member aestheticindustrialist's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Certainly. Also could refer to Jasmin et Cigarettes by Etat Libre d'Orange.
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  23. #23
    New Member Moi Y.'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    I usually use styrax EO as a base for anything smoky or ashy in combination with other oil to achieve the intended ashy / smoky / burnt notes.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Indeed, styrax is sometimes added to tobacco as a flavouring. It is hard to find good styrax resinoid these days (much of it has been stripped of it's oil), so either the essential oil or the absolute would be a safer bet.

    Aside from those materials already mentioned, you can also try immortelle absolute, labdanum resinoid, clove oil and coumarin.

    Sugars are often added to tobacco to improve the taste, so you may want to consider adding a furanone or two for the burnt sugar note. They are very high impact materials so they must be dosed carefully.
    Last edited by Pears; 22nd June 2017 at 12:52 PM.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Yeah, definitely less interested in the tobacco facet of the idea, myself. I'm thinking more like wood or paper ashes. But there's a ton of info here. Thank you, everyone!

  26. #26

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Ah, I thought that it was you who mentioned cigarettes but it was in fact Palmolive.

    For a wood ash accord you can use crude cade oil or crude birch tar. However, kiln burned pine tar has more of the gritty, ash-like quality that you may be after.
    Last edited by Pears; 22nd June 2017 at 04:13 PM.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    maybe eaglewood EO might be useful for an ash-accord. the one i got from White Lotus has a very distinctive ash aspect in its drydown.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Forgive a question from a newbie, but what do the figures in the formulations represent.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Formulae, when written down correctly, should add up to 100.0 so that you can work in percentages. This makes it easier to convert the formulation to total any figure you want. Ideally the numbers refer to weight. If the formula doesn't add up to 100.0 it is a good idea to convert it so that it does add up to 100.0. Thus a small knowledge of arithmetic is required. Some people work in drops, and in that case the numbers refer to numbers of drops. In my opinion, this should be discouraged.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Ashes accord?

    Quote Originally Posted by leonardpayne View Post
    Forgive a question from a newbie, but what do the figures in the formulations represent.
    If you refer to the formula above, since it has fractional numbers, like 0.2, that would likely be in grams.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

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