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  1. #391
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    epapsiou's Avatar
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    OML - Green:
    Not as weird as notes sound. Citrus/cucumber . The Martha Stewart cucumber/mint/lemon infusded cold water that people in Hampton drink in summer,
    Not bad at all
    Last edited by epapsiou; 14th January 2018 at 05:32 PM.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Coriolan by Guerlain

  2. #392
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Oriane:
    Another good one. This is from Proust collection as is Swann. I wonder why this is called Proust. Is it because it is more "cereberal" or because these frags are Remembrance of things past?
    In any case a beautiful ethereal floral. And it is NOT all natural. There are synthetics here in perfect harmony. This one also has the Blue raspberry Jolly Rancher note but here it is muted and works very well.
    In a perfect world, I would have a restaurant in Sweden and my girl would wear this to bed.
    Orianne and Swann were the two stand-outs the that I received.

    I read your review on Beta a while back, you can tell from the tester being almost empty that I sampled it quite a lot trying to make heads or tails of it before really liking it at the end.

  3. #393
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Hello, fine fragranced friends! Apologies for my tardy arrival to the 4160 party. (Hopefully I’m still fashionably late? Maybe? / ) As the lovely and gracious PerfumedLady mentioned, I have in my hot little hands ~40~ (yes, forty→ F.O.R.T.Y.!!!!) pretty little samples from this quirky and creative perfume house. Thank you so much, PerfumedLady, for this sample pass and for including me! Thank you also to the kind and generous Kiliwia, for her contributions and inspiration! I am so happy to have survived the flu season (thus far, anyway) and the holidays and I am a little over 30% done with sampling everything, so the show is on the road and moving ahead, albeit thus far in the backstage. Poor lonely epapsiou! Sorry for not getting a chance to post sooner. You are such a dear and I agree with PL-- wonderful reviews and more than enough to keep this thread hopping with interest. (BTW, Kitty2Shoes, I didn’t think perfume could make me salivate, but the thought of an Advent calendar with samples very nearly did! lol!) Anyway, here are a few brief reviews to start. Due to the large number of samples and time constraints, I will try to be a bit more concise/ less rambling than usual, which is likely a good thing! Hopefully I will be able to send the West Coast set on to the East Coast in the next 7-10 days and then finish the other half.

    London 1969

    Opens with a fresh bergamot and tangy citrus that is heavy on the lemon. There are some crisp green, herbal notes, like some wet violet leaves crushed underfoot, and perhaps a cool floral such as LotV . In my notes, I have written “cocoa(?)” but to be honest, I have no recollection what that was! Lol! Apparently there was a phantom cocoa of some sort to my nose. The lemon becomes quite a bit stronger and green like lemongrass, and almost veers into functional lemon-scented-polish/soap/cleaning spray territory to my nose. However, this aspect soon softens and I was rather delighted to be reminded of the nostalgic clean, simple lemon musk of Love’s Fresh Lemon. A slightly sweeter floral becomes evident, and I was reminded a bit of honeysuckle or some delicately sweetened floral accord. As the scent wears on, a deeper, almost resinous herbal note comes to the fore, and it almost carries with it a humid feeling. This heavy, earthy, garden odor was perhaps patchouli, but not a headshop variety; it was much more subtle and blended into the composition. The scent developed a hint of woodiness, giving a whiff of dry cedar or pencil shavings, with maybe a tiny bit of spice. I happen to like these sorts of herbal and woody notes, (and all the more with some spice!) so this was a very nice surprise. As the dry down continued, it grew leathery and lovely, again just a wonderful surprise in the evolution. At this point, I was reminded quite a bit of the Courvoisier fragrance, which I like a lot. It wore on in this manner, a wonderful herbal, leathery skin scent for hours and it was so unexpectedly enjoyable.

    What Katie did on Friday Night

    Opens with a blast of sweet, fruity rose, citronella, and a green, rooty scent that reminds me of a peeled parsnip, of all things. A woody, leafy aspect grows and it smells like Katie had an awesome Friday night walk on the edge of some woods, with the remnants of her rosy perfume and citronella bug repellent still wafting lightly about her. The scent sits in this easy, comfy, quietly calm way and gradually grows a bit more citric, now juicier like oranges and lemons, but kept soft with some powdery, make up like notes. The face powder note is very slight, and could be some mix of rose, violet and iris. This aspect does not grow into a full fledged make up scent, as the prominent citrus plus rose bring to mind a lemon rose geranium as well. There is also something clean and bright and herbal at the edges, perhaps lavender. It grows deeper as it dries down and surprisingly has an increasingly perfumey feel, with something sparkly and shiny, with an aldehyde-like lightness sitting atop a berried fruitiness that has emerged from under the rose and other florals. It almost grows a bit boozy, and starts to have a very familiar feel of a fruity, rosy, vanilla/cocoa perfume that I feel like I must have in my wardrobe, but I cannot place it.

    Time to Draw the Raffle Numbers

    This one was an immediate and surprising blast from the past in the sense that the opening reminded me *exactly* of an herbal tonic loaded with minerals that an aunt gave me as a kid when I was misdiagnosed with chronic fatigue syndrome and everyone wanted me to take this supplement and that vitamin and eat red meat and also more raisins, and all manner of other maddening things. (In case anyone is interested, I was fine. My parents should have let me ride my horse more often. I think the condition is called “being a spoiled teenager.” ) After the herbal tonic note (an earthy, minerally thing, sweetened, but with bitter herbs) dissipated, a wonderful leather arose, as if one had just settled into an old, deep, cushy leather sofa, with a pouch of good pipe tobacco resting on the side table, next to a glass of Grand Marnier. A vanillic tonka and coumarin sweetness develops to keep things from becoming too bitter. This is joined by a medley of cedar, vetiver, pepper, and various spices such as cloves and nutmeg. As the scent dries down, the cedar becomes a bit drier and more like pencil shavings, and the pepper and vetiver remain prominent. Although I do not sense fig wood, the wood and pepper reminds me of two fragrances that I really like, Carbone and Lothair.

    Goodbye Piccadilly


    Rather unexpectedly, this one opened with an almost minty cherry note that brought to mind a “Halls” throat lozenge, of all things. A sharp, camphoraceous lavender balanced the slightly sweet lozenge notes, and an added floral note with some vanilla also became apparent. The camphor element of the lavender or something else became stronger and combined with the mint-like note in the beginning to bring about a Vicks Vapo Rub scent. This all creates a somewhat unpleasant image of a sick room, fragrant with remainders of a floral perfume water and a calming lavender and vanilla linen spray overpowered by the scent of an abundance lozenges and the thickly applied chest rub one might use in mild desperation while ill, in the hope of achieving some comfort while waiting for a full recovery. However, it is much more than the smell of a sick person’s bedroom, and actually very pleasant! There is also a wonderful sensation of coolness like violet leaf and also that natural chill that comes with the menthol and camphor. This makes the cherry and spices that start to show in the heart and dry down seem light and bright. There is a vague similarity to L’elephant in the cherry and clove and peppery spices, although the fragrances are very vastly different on the whole. Some heavier oriental basenotes appear, also in diet version. Then a sort of delicious inedible aspect of lavender drizzled with caramel and vanilla that I found (and liked) in the first iteration of Guerlain’s Mon Exclusif and in the Lush scent, Twilight (incidentally also introduced to me by the wonderful PL!) It developed depth and heft and a seemingly inexplicable earthiness while remaining fairly light and happy hearted. I admired the scent more and more, and it also grew increasingly familiar and was strangely compelling. Then it hit me. I found myself unconsciously nodding and smiling and thinking of another dear BN friend once I figured it out. The dry down had turned into something very like the Lush scent, Lord of Misrule; I was given a lovely gift of the shower cream, and I loved it immediately. That scent is a weird, sweet, earthy patchouli, pepper and vanilla done in a synthetic, otherworldly way.

    Sleep Knot

    I am not sure what a sleep knot is, but the name initially made me think of the aria from Turandot “nessun dorma,” as in “no sleep” (sleep not), however, this scent gave me the sense that it might have been designed as a calming sleep aid, sort of helping you “tie the knot” with sleep. It also sounds like “slip knot,” but that made no sense, lol! After reading up on the scent when I was done sampling, I found that none of these were really at all what the perfumer had in mind! (LOL! Not surprised, though.) With most of these scents, the names are sort of quirky and so long that I often willfully ignored them and could not remember them fully after wearing the scents. I would abbreviate the names in my head, as they were so cumbersome, and without a backstory, they sound arbitrary and random instead of evocative of anything. Anyway, this one had a short name and it still created questions in my head, lol.

    Despite whatever my petty qualms and questions, I quite like this scent! In fact, the first spray almost stole my breath, and I immediately thought “Oh, this is so beautiful!!!!!” It opened with a gorgeous melange of ylang ylang and jasmine, rich and sultry and a bit indolic. It had tinges of orange blossom and a sweet, grapey fruitiness that some white flowers have, and I felt already that it was everything I love. A bit of earthiness gave character and kept it from becoming “too much” or too shrill, and then a pretty, refreshing green note, perhaps a facet of the ylang, shone through. I sighed softly. As it dried down, the lovely, clean, creamy sandalwood became stronger, and created a soft pillow of scent. Simple, and perfect.

    I am so in love with this perfume, it is not even funny. I feel like some kind of schoolgirl, and rather strangely, I might add, as even when I *was* a schoolgirl, I was too irritable and picky to have the sorts of schoolgirl crushes that everyone writes about.

    Mother Nature’s Naughty Daughters

    First impression: Pop rocks candy and L’Ombre dans l’Eau. First assessment: Yummmmmm! Lol. This fruity, rosy, musky, black currant filled scent reminded me of a few perfumes that I own and enjoy. The aforementioned Diptyque, as well as Balkis, Rose Muskissime, Amethyst, and Parisienne. This was a delightful scent, accented by a nice mineral, chalky note. The rose was lovely, the fruitiness was tart and mouth watering, and the currant never became urinous. The drydown was rich and boozy, the rose gradually reminding me slightly of the beauty that is La Rose Jacqueminot. This was nicely potent, wafting from my wrist for hours, even with a single small spray from the sample. Another that I just love. (PL, I think your predictions were probably spot on!)

    More soon folks!
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    ~ Henri Matisse

  4. #394
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    epapsiou's Avatar
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Killer Rose:
    Start is screechy but moves on to Tocade+Spices very soon. Then the tocade-ness goes down and the fragrance settles in to a greenish smoky rose. Smoke is perhaps from cloves and or incense.
    A nice rose.
    Anyone here knows what rose is this. This rose is not Taif. It is thin and screechy. It is sued in Homage Attar too. Or is it perhaps a different extraction method ?

    Edit:
    Looking at my review after Cestrum's monster post makes me feel very inadequate.
    Last edited by epapsiou; 16th January 2018 at 03:03 PM.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Coriolan by Guerlain

  5. #395
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Oh, you are too funny, e! Sadly, however, quantity does not necessarily equal quality! And, if I took all the random jibber jabber out of my reviews, I am sure they would be quite short! Still not sure about quality though! Lol! However, I hear mine are very popular with people who want to know about the health supplements that I took as a child, or perhaps read my tired, semi-brain dead ruminations on perfume names. Anyway, I was hoping to keep your company here!!!! You are probably almost finished by now though. Killer Rose sounds really good--- is that rose like a Grosjman rose by any chance? I have a set of quickie reviews for two that I kind of hated.

    Dark Heart of Old Havana

    Opens like a cheap candle scent, filled with an overly sweet, synthetic mess of fruit and thin, unrealistic tobacco. I imagine that one could even find a dollar store candle that would smell better than this. The too sweet, too candied notes are accented by a very fake pine scent, thankfully fairly light, but still very reminiscent of a car freshener. In a last attempt to create something dark, a halitosis like smell arises. Perhaps this is supposed to be a cigar aroma. Dry down is an equally unpleasant synthetic coconut plus a waft of a dollar store version of Brut aftershave. (Because normally, Brut is so expensive and high quality, of course!) This smells indie, in the worst way. It is almost masterfully bad and has successfully consolidated many of the problems one anticipates when sampling an indie creation with a funny name that is only sold online or.on Etsy. Nothing about it smells good-- even vaguely, the notes seem thrown together in a bewildering fashion, and as for the quality, well, it is as if the very cheapest of fragrance oils were mixed in a blend filled with nothing redeeming, save for the hopes of the perfumer.


    Captured by Candlelight

    This is Havana’s good pal. Opens with a blast of artificial rum and candied, overly sweet orange and coconut. Then a revolting caramel note fills the entire space. I am not very fond of caramel in edible or perfume versions, much less such a poor quality one, and this smells like a cheap candle that smothers you until you can't breathe. This gross, synthetic caramel and rummy thing goes on and on until the same synthetic, plasticky coconut in the beginning returns for an encore in the dry down. Yuk.
    Last edited by cestrum nocturnum; 17th January 2018 at 09:11 AM. Reason: Thems is backstabbing backslashes i tells you!!!
    There are always flowers for those who want to see them.
    ~ Henri Matisse

  6. #396

    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    cestrum, those are superb reviews, extremely high quality and we must insist that you keep the jibber jabber! It's part of the fun!

    I'm so happy that you liked Mother Nature's Naughty Daughters; I did have this picked as a possible cestrum scent. Bavard and I also noted the vintage vibe and felt it could have been part of Retro Roses. I love that you brought up La Rose Jacqueminot; these two scents do seem to run parallel in time to my thinking. Both are just bursting with non-rose notes with all of it heading toward a perfect boozy rose. Worth noting that this is probably the most popular of the pass. These are some tough noses to please and it hasn't failed.

    Sleep Knot did surprise me! I was meh on it, though it is pretty. I should probably revisit this one later. Your Time to Draw the Raffle numbers review cracked me up and I agree you should have been allowed to ride your horse more often. Parents just don't understand.

    Love your negative reviews too! These two sound like we're even on that J.Lo from the blind sniff. (JK; we were even as soon as I ate the Pocky. Speaking of, I found Pocky mecca. A great big tall stack of cases of Pocky at Costco!! I wanted to hug it.)

    Looking forward to more monster posts please! But at your leisure only. I don't want you to get totally burned out!

    Killer Rose, you know I've been waiting for your thoughts on this one, epapsiou! I'm intrigued by the Tocade connection. I can deal with and even love a screechy rose opening. "Greenish smoky rose" sounds awesome. You did not disappoint! Nowhere near "inadequate"; expert sample passer is the proper term. You know what you think when you smell it. I believe you and Kitty2Shoes are the only two here who have tried this so I can't say what sort of rose. "Not Taif" is good enough for me; will definitely try to smell this.

    Green sounds like the sort of thing I like to put in the refrigerator in summer for cool spritzing. These scents have a usefulness, and this one actually sounds interesting.

    Thank you both; I had such a fun read!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 17th January 2018 at 10:30 PM.

  7. #397
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    cestrum, those are superb reviews, extremely high quality and we must insist that you keep the jibber jabber!
    Agreed, on both accounts

    cestrum is always a good read, monster post or not. We all love the monsters, but know there are so many hours in a day. Glad you're here!

  8. #398
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    OML - Indigo:

    Indigo is not just a dye. It is world history in a word - cause of revolutions, wars, nobel prize, countless deaths and suffering and riches. Scratch that. Indigo is older than history. The original Blue Gold used to be ubiquitous. It was with you when you gazed at the rainbow and when you wore your first denim.
    Unfortunately, last few years have not been too kind and it is being slowly forgotten. Pink Floyd didn't care for it in Dark Side of the Moon and Gay Pride tossed it out .
    I am glad Sarah brought it out of its shell and tried to do justice to it.
    Inky,Incensey, not dry but fresh cut wood.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Coriolan by Guerlain

  9. #399
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Hello everybody
    I have Who Knew to swap, and some other stuff probably in due course.
    Anyone in the EU interested?
    Can't do the US or the UK because of mailing restrictions, sorry.

  10. #400

    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    The sampling group members are all in the States but we have lots of Europeans following along. The right person might just see your post, Wild Gardener. Off topic-I love your username!

    epapsiou, that's a beautiful post on Indigo. You have me very excited to sniff!

    I'll be sampling the Advent calendar soon; epapsiou kindly offered to send them on. I'll begin posting thoughts in February on these and Eau My Soul. Needless to say, I'm eager to sniff all those new releases after such great posts by Kitty2Shoes and epapsiou! Many thanks to both of you for your interesting thoughts and for the opportunity to sniff!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 22nd January 2018 at 05:39 PM.

  11. #401
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    OML - Indigo:

    Indigo is not just a dye. It is world history in a word - cause of revolutions, wars, nobel prize, countless deaths and suffering and riches. Scratch that. Indigo is older than history. The original Blue Gold used to be ubiquitous. It was with you when you gazed at the rainbow and when you wore your first denim.
    Unfortunately, last few years have not been too kind and it is being slowly forgotten. Pink Floyd didn't care for it in Dark Side of the Moon and Gay Pride tossed it out .
    I am glad Sarah brought it out of its shell and tried to do justice to it.
    Inky,Incensey, not dry but fresh cut wood.
    epapsiou, see, here you manage to be both full of thoughtful content and poetic. That’s an art. Bravo, man, bravo!

    Wild Gardener, I love your user name, toooooo!!! (You probably didn't know it, but you stumbled upon some avid gardeners in this thread!)


    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    cestrum, those are superb reviews, extremely high quality and we must insist that you keep the jibber jabber! It's part of the fun!

    I'm so happy that you liked Mother Nature's Naughty Daughters; I did have this picked as a possible cestrum scent. Bavard and I also noted the vintage vibe and felt it could have been part of Retro Roses. I love that you brought up La Rose Jacqueminot; these two scents do seem to run parallel in time to my thinking. Both are just bursting with non-rose notes with all of it heading toward a perfect boozy rose. Worth noting that this is probably the most popular of the pass. These are some tough noses to please and it hasn't failed. [...]
    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Agreed, on both accounts

    cestrum is always a good read, monster post or not. We all love the monsters, but know there are so many hours in a day. Glad you're here!


    PerfumedLady and IsoE, thank you both for your kind words and encouragement!

    PL, I am glad that you and Bavard also found a vintage feel in MNND. That was a surprise for me and such a pleasant one! In fact, I have felt surprised by many of these, lol! Part of this might not be entirely due to the artistry of the perfumer... I was really sick for what seemed like 2 months, so I do wonder if my nose is off still. Sometimes I feel like it is not quite right. I am really curious about Goodbye Piccadilly. I really questioned my nose on that one after I read other reviews! (Violets and leather? Where?!? I have and love Jolie Madame, and all I got was Halls and Vick’s Vapo Rub! And I doubt that was the desired effect! I feel cheated now! LOL!) At any rate, I may take another quick sniff of that one. PL, a mountain of Pocky sounds wonderfully delicious!!! God, I hate Costco! But Pocky may have partially redeemed them- finally something good in big box format!!!!


    Ok, anyway, here are a few more reviews! Sorry for the delay in posting-- I gave it a shot over the weekend, but the lag times just getting the multi-quotes to work was excruciating and I did not want to waste time trying to post things and then lose it all. Oh, and I do believe that I am done sampling the first half and I will be sending them off to epapsiou soon.


    Tart’s Knicker Drawer


    Opens with a leathery, makeup blast. The rose, violet and iris are the main players, but the leather provides a nice tableau for them. This smells more like a leather purse with makeup than an underwear drawer. Candied berry notes bring to mind the candy in that purse. The powdery make up note continues through the heart, and a sort of floral, lotiony scent, similar to a sunscreen fragrance. As that lotiony aspect grows stronger, I begins to sense a benzyl salicylate, chemical type of floral, with perhaps some LotV, clean floral. It reminds me of Coppertone sunscreen. This has a bit of the harsh chemical aroma that these lotions tend to have, but eventually, a creamy peachy note comes out and it is much more pleasant. The powdery iris and candied notes are still there with the overall makeup like scent, but these take the center stage and it now reminds me the tiniest a bit of an HdP, although I can’t really place which one it might be… maybe one of the Tubereuses-- perhaps 1? To be frank, I forgot I was even sampling this one, so I may have missed some of the evolution by neglecting to check, but
    the drydown seemed uneventful and it did not seem to develop much, save for perhaps growing a fading into a still sweet, musky, vanillic thing.


    Sex Goddess

    Upon first spray: Allure Sensuelle. To me, this smells very similar to AS. It is less sweet, and has a sharper opening, soon to be all filled in with flowers such as rose, jasmine, and magnolia, sweets, patchouli, powdery iris, warm amber, vanilla and musk. As the heart emerges, the differences between the two become even starker, and this has some smoky, bitterness that is absent in the Chanel. Some woody, pencil shaving note and spicy pepper and incense also create more complexity. It feels more “natural” and less polished than the Chanel, and in the dry down grows soapy, but like that weird, dried powder hand soap. As time passes, it seems lactonic and creamy, and it brings to mind heavy creams, such a Nivea. After a while, it takes on another heavy cream scent, but this time, it is surprisingly like one heavy in lanolin. I am not fond of the smell of lanolin, so this was not entirely pleasant, but it was mercifully light and disappeared fairly quickly. I am thankful for the Chanel, which I own and enjoy.

    Inevitable Crimes of Passion

    Begins with a boozy orange note, not unlike the Grand Marnier aspect in Raffle. However, this is overlaid atop a layer of cocoa powder and dry dusty herbs and coniferous notes. Then this citrus-conifer takes on more of a salty ambergris like scent, but also grows more woodsy. It soon developed a smoky, acrid, burnt aroma and a stronger and increasingly bitter dark cocoa. In the end, this slightly strange scent reminded me most of composted redwood chips, with heat rising into cold air as it decays into the earth. This was the character of the fragrance for the rest of the wearing.

    Lady Rose Lion (Monkey Unicorn)

    Well, I'm back to some jibber jabbering here. I know it is irrelevant, but I have to say that I really dislike this name. These are all cute words-- some of my favorite things, really. However, each time I read it, I cannot shake the image of a bratty, none-to-smart-yet-still-a-smart-ass kid answering a question with this nonsensical string of words in a stupidly defiant and irritating gesture. Now that I’ve gotten that off of my chest, I can admit that I really like this perfume. A lot. I drew a little heart next to it in my notes. (Ok, confession: I did that to a few of the samples so far. I’ll let you guess which ones.) So I suppose I would add a penciled in heart beside the string of words. LOL!

    This one opens with a hard, sharp leather, rose and saffron. For me, this was very pleasant and easy to love. It has a creamy feel even though the leather, rose and saffron all have substance and depth. The raspberry note becomes apparent, but it is not syrupy to my nose. (This stage brings to mind DYLEEDP of retro roses fame, lol.) It accents a lovely plushy, chewy iris note and makes a delicious accord. I sensed some patchouli, and together with the iris, I was reminded of another favorite perfume, Shalimar Parfum Initial. That flanker is often panned, but I love it. The beautiful rose continues and seems partnered now with ambrette and yet another favorite is brought to mind, Ce Soir ou Jamais. As the dry down begins, a wonderful peachy, lactonic mossy combination becomes evident. This is just lovely, and I am awed by McCartney’s skill and ability to create this stunning base, which is similar to Mitsuoko, and of course, is also just amazing in Doe in the Snow, from this same perfumer and house. The late dry down is still great, a solid vanilla musk, which I know sounds uninspired, but is so well done, I can only appreciate it all the more.

    Mrs. Gloss & the Goss

    I am going to copy and paste epapsiou’s excellent and concise review of Lemon Sherbet here. It fits perfectly.


    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Lemon Sherbet:

    I don't think Sarah has made real Lemon Sherbet
    his one is Vanilla+Lemon. Musk later on.

    Lemon Meringue Pie is what this should have been named. [...]
    I will just add that this did also have a stand out grapefruit note that was gorgeous. It really was everything I would want in a grapefruit. The drydown smelled like a delicious vanilla cake after the citruses faded. Overall, it reminded me of La Vanila Lemon Vanilla and DKNY Sweet Delicious Lemon Meringue. I do love these for a light hearted, cheap thrill on a hot day, and this is one that would fit right in with the others. Perhaps too well, as I have both and this would really be a bit redundant, and further, I think I like the DKNY best of the three for a gourmand lemon vanilla fragrance. However, the grapefruit note is so excellent, it may warrant a bottle as well!
    There are always flowers for those who want to see them.
    ~ Henri Matisse

  12. #402
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    You are too kind Cestrum.

    A neighbour and a good friend of mine has a lot of allergies. Food, seasonal, gluten etc. And the most dreaded of them - perfume allergies. I have to be careful around her. But she loves perfumes or at least the idea of it and more importantly her daughter wanted her mom to have some so she can steal a few spritzes
    She tried a few so called natural ones and no go. I gave her hermes guerlain samples but no go.
    And then I let her try Beta - the hypoallergenic one from Sarah. Well let us just say that sample is not returning to this pass .
    It really made her happy and I guess that is what this hobby is about.
    And Beta has a new fan
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Coriolan by Guerlain

  13. #403
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Quote Originally Posted by cestrum nocturnum View Post

    Mrs. Gloss & the Goss

    I am going to copy and paste epapsiou’s excellent and concise review of Lemon Sherbet here. It fits perfectly.




    I will just add that this did also have a stand out grapefruit note that was gorgeous. It really was everything I would want in a grapefruit. The drydown smelled like a delicious vanilla cake after the citruses faded. Overall, it reminded me of La Vanila Lemon Vanilla and DKNY Sweet Delicious Lemon Meringue. I do love these for a light hearted, cheap thrill on a hot day, and this is one that would fit right in with the others. Perhaps too well, as I have both and this would really be a bit redundant, and further, I think I like the DKNY best of the three for a gourmand lemon vanilla fragrance. However, the grapefruit note is so excellent, it may warrant a bottle as well!
    For the Americans - have you tried the British Lemon Sherbet - the hard candies? That is what is it trying to emulate, not the frozen lemon sherbet you get in the ice cream aisle or a sweet American style pie. When I get Lemon Sherbet drops from the local sweet store, that is what the perfume smells like to me.

  14. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kitty2Shoes View Post
    For the Americans - have you tried the British Lemon Sherbet - the hard candies? That is what is it trying to emulate, not the frozen lemon sherbet you get in the ice cream aisle or a sweet American style pie. When I get Lemon Sherbet drops from the local sweet store, that is what the perfume smells like to me.
    Gotcha. It makes sense now. Especially the sweet vanilla.

    For record there is just one Lemon Sharbat and it is neither the British candy nor the american ice Popsicle.
    And this is how you make it: https://www.saveur.com/article/recip...spiced-limeade
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Coriolan by Guerlain

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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    They have a sale on now. Im tempted to blind buy Amber Mambo
    But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.
    Currently wearing: Cucumber by Body Shop

  16. #406

    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Just a quick peek in today, though there’s so much more I want to comment on!

    Thank you for posting the sale, Lian! I hang on to a tiny little thread of hope that one day the mailing issues will be resolved so we can hog up those sales here in the States. Very generous discounts, and pretty often, it seems. For now, thank goodness for Luckyscent and Indiescents! Amber Mambo is another that’s new to me; did you make your purchase? I’d love to hear more about it if you’re so inclined!

    cestrum, your Tart’s Knicker Drawer and HdP comments have been on my mind! I thought it a sister of 1889 Moulin Rouge when I smelled it. It fits into that whole pinup/cosmetic scent family. However, it’s loud exuberance and youthfulness keep it miles away from say, Drôle de Rose even though technically, they’re family. Much more like 1889 or Lipstick Rose in personality, I think. It just so happens I’m craving a wear of Tubereuse 1 (also a potent scent with a bit of a makeup/leather purse aspect) after Chanuary; will wear it in a couple days and see if I get the connections there, too. Either way, it’s more the thought of a general HdP likeness in TKD that’s been kicking around in my mind. It’s definitely there, though I can’t put my nose on exactly what it is!

    We have a genetic disposition to love lemon in my family; thanks for the Sharbat link, epapsiou! It’s bound to go over well. The British Lemon Sherbets look good also but don’t think they could replace my Lemonhead addiction.

    Also, I loved the story about your neighbor and Beta, epapsiou! This is one of my favorite things in this entire wonderful thread you’ve all made here. That is exactly what this hobby is about. On the surface, it may seem a shallow hobby but a story like this goes deep. Beta gave a woman something she thought she couldn’t have and better still, an opportunity for mother/daughter bonding. Stealing spritzes from one another was actually one of my bonds with my own mom. It’s a lovely thing to have. Really happy news to read!

    I have the Advent calendar now (minus just a couple, and very pleased to let Beta in particular go to a good home) and will get going on it later this week!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 29th January 2018 at 12:57 PM.

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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    I tried the much-anticipated Eau My Soul and found it disappointing (sorry fans!). Like all of the line, it is well done. Unlike so many other 4160 scents though, it isn't particularly unique. Overall, it's an ooey-gooey, boozy patchouli for me; not my kind of patch scent.

    The listed notes had me expecting much, much more complexity. Bergamot, lavender, honey, cognac, tobacco, neroli, iris, tuberose, orange blossom, rose, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, woods, oakmoss, vanilla, amber, frankincense, benzoin, opoponax, myrrh, labdanum, tonka bean, leather and musk are all listed notes. Sounds fascinating but in practice, most of these notes are overwhelmed. I get patchouli, tobacco, vanilla, labdanum, benzoin and a general booziness. In the family of Tobacco Vanille, Vanilla Flash, Richwood, etc., etc. It does smell good; people will compliment this, I think. If it sounds like your bag, I can recommend a sniff. I just wanted more from it. Where are all those florals?

    I'm faring much better with the Advent samples; more on those coming soon. LOVE Killer Rose!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 7th February 2018 at 08:22 PM.

  18. #408

    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Rhubarb & Citrus Cologne-lovely rhubarb note; the best rendition of this note I've smelled. Sweetened enough, but not too much. The green snap of rhubarb comes through and not in the metallic, screechy synthetic way that I usually get from rhubarb notes. Excellent marks for being a natural smelling rhubarb. However, the opening grapefruit note went cat pee on me, and I already have Pamplelune for those times I feel the need to risk smelling like a litter box. The far drydown did start to become sort of harshly synthetic in feel. Excellent longevity and though not my perfect rhubarb, it does come close.

    Killer Rose-oh yeah. Not much to say on this as I've already spoken extensively on Raw Silk & Red Roses. As previously mentioned, this is that scent plus Felix Fixer. RS&RR is one of the best roses out there to me, and I don't care how it's decorated, apparently. Love this just as much as the original. Still the same stone-fruity, geranium laden musky rose but taken in an oriental, powdery direction. Felix seems to have some vanilla, warm spices and maybe a touch of benzoin and amber. Killer Rose seems more modern due to the base accord, yet still very obviously retro-inspired. This sample is staying with me.

    Swann-would consider leaving Mr. PL for a man in this. Or, would just take some for myself. What a gorgeous masculine! Herbs and citrus usually do make me happy and here they are paired with a truly fantastic traditional floral accord. Rose and jasmine I think, and maybe some iris. Abstracted to the extent that flower shy gents need not fear it. This floral accord is most impressive not because of the flowers themselves but for the sunny, fizzy, orange-y lift they're given. Very traditional EdC-inspired in the the top and heart, but with wonderful longevity due to the use of some (great smelling) modern synthetics. Very, very dandy and chic.

  19. #409

    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Mrs. Gloss and the Goss Lemon Sherbet EdP-something for the Shalimar lovers! Specifically, if you like Eau de Shalimar, I highly recommend giving this a sniff. Or if you like the idea of Shalimar but find it just too weird/old/dirty diaper. Such an old idea that it seems simple now; the fresh, sharp acidity of citrus against creamy, plush vanilla. The lemon here is like the sugar-dipped Lemon Drop candies to my American nose but the texture is powdered, again like EdS. This will be so much easier to love than any Shalimar for many though; Lemon Sherbet showcases just the pretty bits. No granny's cedar chest bergamot, no scary smoke or rough leather (I love Shalimar for its strangeness but realize not everyone agrees). Just completely lovely and well done. Worthy of modern Guerlain fans' attention.

    Bhodi Language-nope, nope, nope. It's not even right for me to review this one as it opens as just the sort of stinky oud-y poo that I utterly can't stand. For those who love oud, this may be a compliment. I do love a rooibos note and this red tea is very, very nice. That's the best I can do here.

    Shazam!-a revisit, and delightful to smell it again. It's such a luxurious gourmand, too much for me, I'm now certain. But so delicious and the cocoa note is addictive. The caramel note is just perfect, buttery rich without making the whole scent overly gooey. Really not my style but just smells dang good and I'd definitely urge gourmand lovers to give it a sniff. I think it'll offer a unique twist for gourmand-heavy perfume collections.
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 13th February 2018 at 05:30 PM.

  20. #410
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Hello again! Just a quick update: I’m digging into the second batch of 20 samples and have some more reviews from the first batch that I had not gotten around to posting yet. I still have a few to write up from my notes from that first 20, and of course the new ones, too. And the samples made it safely to Bavard, yay! (I swear I don’t wear a colander on my head, but I do think that USPS likes to scare me just for kicks.)

    PerfumedLady,
    I am really enjoying your reviews! How exciting that this house consistently offers so many interesting scents. Rhubarb sounds great, as does Swann. I think there may have been some question, but I think that the Mrs. Goss and the Gloss sample I tried is the same scent at the Lemon Sherbet that you and epapsiou have sampled recently. (?) The names are so confusing. The site seems to indicate that it is one in the same from what I can tell and the descriptions here and on the site are very similar. The one that I sampled did definitely have that creamy lemon that makes Eau de Shalimar so delish! I did not make that connection, but it fits perfectly! Mmmm, so yummy. That is definitely a favorite aspect of EdS.

    Ok, here we go:

    Flora Psychedelia

    This is another of McCartney’s lovely rose centric fragrances. Here we have a very boozy rose that smells so delicious that you almost feel compelled to taste it as it simply *must* also taste delectable. A doughy yet inedible iris saves us from temptation, balancing things nicely with some other slightly sharp citric notes. Then the profile shifts and lightens considerably, courtesy of a nice dose of bitter green herbal notes. Further adding to the bright feel, hairspray like florals give a nice sheen and polish. The green, cool aspect of the florals grows stronger and overall, the scent has a very refreshing but still cozy feel. This warmth is not only from depth of the iris, but also wonderful peppery spices and almost cocoa-like note that acts as a counterpoint to the greens. A touch of vanilla smooths the whole and as the fragrance dries down, the florals gradually grow softer and the powder notes also create a calming, serene feel. This one reminded me of Eau de Charlotte, and even Covet a bit. Those are both very interesting scents and likewise, this is certainly a unique beauty from the house.

    Rosa Ribes

    Annnnnnnd… yet another lovely rose. This one started with that fruity note that reminded me of fruit candy in McCartney’s other scents. This one is sort of like a synthetic strawberry/berry sweet, reminding.me of those strawberry candies that are wrapped to look like a strawberry. This leads into McCartney’s beautiful boozy rose with currant fruit and currant leaf, plus other green notes. This is much less fruity than Mother Nature’s Naughty Daughters, which I actually found more full of currant and fruity notes. However, in a similar fashion to MNND, this also reminded me of Ce Soir ou Jamais. It was a bit muskier, perhaps with more ambrette.


    Ealing Green

    In a departure from the fruit syrup drizzled fragrances that seem to dominate the house, this was a very unisex, green, herbal scent. It was green-grassy and mossy with accents of peppery herbs and dry florals. I thought I sensed some anisic notes, as well as a certain level of bitterness that provided a clean, fresh feel. The drydown was earthy, mossy and a bit woody. I would call this unisex, but it did remind me of some masculines, for example Pierre Cardin pour Monsieur.

    Sunshine and Pancakes

    Opened with burst of moss, herbs and spices. I was immediately reminded of star anise and culinary blends like five spice. Then a sharp, fresh blast of orange oil, as if a fruit was peeled and all of the lovely volatile alcohols and oils from skin sprayed from every little pore. A greenness took over, and it suddenly started to feel very vintage-y and unusual. My nose may have been tired from power sniffing multiple fragrances at a time, but it was very hard to dissect notes and place the seemingly complex blend of notes. It did develop a beautiful rosewood note, and it seemed accented by an herbal lemon-- citronella/lemongrassy lemon, not the actual fruit. Then in an unexpected twist, a creamy, fatty ylang note crept into the composition. As it continued to dry down, it took on a very natural cast, like a tonic of soothing, meditative essential oils blended to perfection. The rosewood remained and was softened by sandalwood, and perhaps cedar. All in all, this was one of the more unique fragrances, although I did not necessarily find it sunshiny, and as discussed by others previously, this is so not the American pancake. However, I am not sure I find anything crepey in it either! Lol.


    What I did on My Holiday

    This perfume confused me. It smelled like someone scrubbed wood floors with pine sol and used a lemon oil scented floor wax to polish it. Then after all of that work, he or she smoked some cherry pipe tobacco and ate some vanilla rum creme brulee garnished with syrupy berries. None of it made me think of a holiday, or a perfume for that matter!

    More to come soon. I'm getting there! lol
    There are always flowers for those who want to see them.
    ~ Henri Matisse

  21. #411
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Mrs Gloss & the Goss: Lemon Sherbet - I think this is the one I wore today (is there more than one Mrs. Gloss and the Goss?) It's really good. I'll read up thread to see impressions from others. It smelled different from a distance (beautifully sweet and inviting) than up close (sharp citrus).

    The sweetness was an amber-vanilla-chocolate type smell, really nice, almost like the sweetness in Egoiste or Dior Homme Intense, that agreeable, or like the Silk, Lace, and Chocolate fragrance that I liked so much from the first round of this pass.
    Last edited by Bavard; 14th February 2018 at 01:48 PM.

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    What I did on my Holidays - This had an exciting opening, with a coconut smell. It settles into something interesting, but maybe not completely satisfying, for my tastes, a mix of sharp (lavender and peppermint?), sweet (coconut, candyfloss, and vanilla), and salty (sea notes). It does smell like something from 4160 Tuesdays, which is nice, a familiar smell of fun and know-how. This is definitely fun to sample, and for someone wanting to wear something with a beach theme, this could be of interest.

    The base of this is good. It still smells like a coconut beach fragrance, but it gets more and more rounded in a way that's hard not to like.
    Last edited by Bavard; 14th February 2018 at 06:48 PM.

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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Captured by Candlelight - This is one of the less interesting 4160 Tuesdays fragrances I've tried. It smells like it's dominated by a single ingredient, a large, sweet, dark aroma chemical. There is a hint of the pop rocks candy smell.

  24. #414

    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Look at Bavard go! So fast, and I know you'll remember them, too. A real sample pass pro! cestrum, great to read your excellent reviews!

    Just popping in to leave a couple more reviews; have started on Our Modern Lives:

    Indigo-a jasmine blossom fashioned from black patent leather. Incense-y and dark as a starless night. Jasmine incense scents have a tendency to be headshoppy but this one is Proper Perfume. Has an inky, almost rubberized quality and some booze but despite the strangeness, surprisingly easy to wear. Another very clever idea executed flawlessly; when this house nails it, they really nail it. This is olfactory jazz.

    Aquamarine-Waves/WiFi-really enjoyed this, too. I'm not at all a fan of aquatics. I have a couple of scents in my collection that feature aquatic melon that I really like, but can't honestly say I love them. Never really felt the need to investigate the genre further. I have even less need now that I've discovered Sarah's woody/salty/seaweedy aquatic accord. No shrieking melons or cucumbers; more salt air, boardwalk and wet vegetation. I love it in What I did on my Holidays and Waves/WiFi seems to be even more focused on that accord. Starts off EdC style, reminiscent of Guerlain's Imperiale. Beautifully clear and refreshing. A perfect aquatic and one that surprised me by how much I liked it.

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    Inevitable Crimes of Passion - I'm pretty excited about this one. It has so much gravitas. It smells like something that could have a Basenotes following. It smells like something made with especially good ingredients. At first I was thinking it was made with a rare, expensive wood, but now that I've read that mushroom and coffee are listed notes, I think they might just be adding to the wood to expand it into a bigger accord.

    It gets a little sweet in the base, in a nice way. Mushroom is such an interesting note. I've now had it in Cepes and Tuberose, which I also liked, and in House of Matriarch Forbidden, where it was a little too much for me. I think this one has the most subtle mushroom note of the three.
    Last edited by Bavard; 15th February 2018 at 06:56 PM.

  26. #416

    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Inevitable Crimes of Passion - I'm pretty excited about this one. It has so much gravitas. It smells like something that could have a Basenotes following. It smells like something made with especially good ingredients. At first I was thinking it was made with a rare, expensive wood, but now that I've read that mushroom and coffee are listed notes, I think they might just be adding to the wood to expand it into a bigger accord.
    That is exciting! It sounds like you found your wow! Agree that this one, and all of the Crimes of Passion series, seem especially high quality. It is claimed that Raw Silk & Red Roses uses as much natural rose absolute as is currently allowed, and I don't doubt it. I also wouldn't doubt that Inevitable Crimes of Passion was given similarly luxurious treatment. It did seem to me to be the decadence of the entire series poured into one scent; in feel, if not in exact notes and materials. Really happy to read you enjoyed it so much!

    Our Modern Lives Green-a bit bummed out by this one. I love the spinach, grassy notes and jasmine/green tea. I don't believe anything could be too green for me; that's not the problem. My problem is the cucumber. It feels harsh to me and I just don't like it. Not surprising as I'm usually not a fan of cucumber. But here, it's more than that; it actually ruins the scent for me. I wish it were replaced with more herbs, or even more citrus. But cucumber fans may just love it. And I really enjoyed 3 out of the 4 Our Modern Lives scents, so I can't complain. Thoughts on Orange coming next week; want to wear that one again!

  27. #417
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Fruits of The Tree of Knowledge / What Katie Did On Friday Night - This is another nice, interesting fragrance. It smells edgy. It's high pitched, and oily, floral, slightly woody, and lemony. This would be a bold selection. It does smell feminine. It smells like summer. I imagine Katie out on a Friday night somewhere that's serving lemon slushies, maybe the State Fair, maybe a baseball game. She's leaving a lasting impression, and even breaking hearts.
    Last edited by Bavard; 15th February 2018 at 11:04 PM.

  28. #418
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Wow, Bavard, you *are* totally a sample pass-pro! How do you do it?!? I agree that Inevitable Crimes was really different! The mushroomy composting-mulch aspect was unlike anything I have ever smelled in a perfume and was so spot on to that extremely particular odor, it was absolutely transporting-- like walking over a crunchy layer of decomposing wood mulch on a cold day where the heat of the decomposition helps the scent plume up with each step. Very trippy! I think regarding the Mrs. Gloss sample, the labeling was just different on the different samples in the advent batch and the West coast package. The complete name is Mrs. Gloss and the Goss: Lemon Sherbet. 4160 has several different Mrs. Gloss fragrances, too. http://www.4160tuesdays.com/4160tues...-Editions.html Sorry if I added any confusion, but I think there was also a question about the samples previously upthread somewhere. I’m happy that you liked it! I really enjoyed it too. Have you tried Eau de Shalimar? I had to wear EdS again after PerfumedLady drew that astute comparison, and I was reminded of how much I love that fragrance! It’s one of those that feels like it could be an easy daily wear. BTW, I am so happy to be in your company as you are sampling! And of course with our lovely hostess, too!!! (((Group hug))))

    PerfumedLady, between you and epapsiou waxing poetic on Indigo, my interest is completely piqued! Lol! And I would be disappointed with Green too, from the sound of it! Hmmm, would not have guessed a huge cucumber note would be the chosen one, given McCartney’s artful and creative use of herbs and moss in other scents, but perhaps that is the Modern Lives take on green…

    Well, here are a few more reviews. See you guys later! I am sampling two more right now, as a matter of fact!

    Silk, Lace and Chocolate

    This was a limited edition for Valentine’s day, which I found out after researching the notes following my sampling. It opens with a sweet, fruity explosion that quickly becomes a very distinct alpine or wild strawberry note. It has some sharp bergamot to keep it perfume-like and not pure candied sweetness. A rich cocoa note with vanilla and cream creates a true to name and delicious chocolate accord. It is a really nice gourmand, fun and happy and yummy all at the same time, and with good quality that you can sense. This is the type of gourmand that Aquolinas want to be when they grow up, lol. At some point the strawberry note does become a tiny little bit more synthetic in feel, but it reminds you that it is a perfume not a food, so this aspect doesn’t really detract. Overall, it may seem a simple scent. Strawberries, chocolate, some vanilla, bergamot, maybe a bit of incense and amber in the base. It is pleasant and cute, probably just as it was meant to be. However enjoyable, the main notes are not the most interesting aspect of the scent to me-- the intriguing nuances that are barely there and hard to identify, and fascinate me. If one were to really sniff deeply at the point of application, there is almost a leathery, powdery iris and even perhaps a bit of sweet violet. The bergamot is obvious, but what about the sweet orange? It seems to be quietly lurking there in the heart. The vanilla and cocoa lend a sweet powderiness, very much like a cocoa dusted chocolate confection, but perhaps there is also a bit of a sweet, coumarin hay note as well, and a waxy bayberry like aroma. During the dry down, I even sense a creamy floral, one that is positively fatty, with thick tropical petals, like gardenia or tiare. The vanilla is always there and gorgeous, but the tiny bourbon note is the addictive part! This was so much fun to sniff, as it was almost like one of those visual picture games with little hidden images, but in scent form! Although I did not expect to like this one too much, I found it really enjoyable and I think wearing a large quantity would be a blast. I am not sure I would want to go out smelling like a chocolate covered strawberry, but it would be perfect for hanging out at home or with kids in the family. I must note that this one is potent! The sample vial was a dabber and really had just one big drop left, but it was definitely enough to get a wonderful experience!


    Sexiest Scent on the Planet. Ever.

    I have no idea who might find this sexy, but if one were to have a thing for creamy citrus-orange candy and creamsicles, this should do the trick. The opening is pretty tasty, if not exactly sexy. (Well, to me anyway-- on both accounts.) The orange does have a little bit of a cleaning fluid/air freshener thing going on but that is minimal and not enough to be offensive. As it develops, some spices, most notably pepper, become stronger and accents the citrus nicely. A soft cedar wood with vanilla and also a creamier wood, perhaps a sandalwood type of aroma chemical fills the body of the scent. It is pleasant and enjoyable in a simple way. As it dries down further, a sweet vanilla with a tobacco-ish note grows. The vanilla turns somewhat edible and cakey. Surprisingly, towards the end of the evolution, a lovely, creamy floral appears. To my nose, it reads most like a blend of lily, ylang, and maybe jasmine. It has a bit of a Samsara-like feel with the remaining woody notes, but it is both fresher and sweeter with the vanilla and much less rich and opulent than the Guerlain. In the very late dry down, it reminds me most of Sleep Knot, from this same house and I feel like they must share some DNA. The vanilla and florals also bring to mind Lys Soleia just slightly. It didn’t rock my world and make me feel like I smelled of the sexiest scent on the planet ever, but it was a nice, easy going fragrance, and it did remind me of two of my favorite Guerlains, so that in itself is impressive.


    Goddess of Love and Perfume

    Thanks to PerfumedLady, I had the pleasure of sampling this one well before this sample pass. I liked it then, and I like it now! It opens with sweet and lovely powdery florals-- to me it feels like the classic blend of iris, rose and jasmine. It grows a bit creamier, and although it is very well blended, it seems like some ylang ylang and lily of the valley may also be in the mix, adding to that classic floral feel, such as in the heart of Chanel No. 5, and Arpege. This is much more modern in fell thanks to a fruity undertone that lifts and brightens these weighty blooms. The fruit is not overly sweet and feel like the sugars have been crystallized on the surface in sparkly little diamonds. The florals and fruit are almost like teasers, and great as they are, the real beauty is yet to come. As the scent evolves, an amazing peachy lactone and moss combination appears. Paradoxically, it feels both vintage and modern like Mitsouko’s gorgeous great, great granddaughter. An earthy touch of patchouli and probably labdanum grounds the scent and complements the moss in the most beautiful manner. The peachiness remains for a long time, fuzzy and velvety, tucked into a soft, mossy chypre bed. As the scent continues to drydown, the peach becomes blushed with the warmth of myrrh and musk. In the very late stages of the dry down, a small, calming cloud of heliotrope seems to join the blend and rise from my wrist. After many hours, the remaining fragrance is like a dusting of floral powder, still with the lovely, mild chypre character. This is definitely one of my favorites from the sample pass, and I am so impressed with McCartney’s way of combining such vintage and potentially dated elements with modern ones, such as the fruity aspects that are in so many of her creations.


    Paris 1948

    What a delightful fragrance! This has been a favorite thus far, and quite pleasure to test. It opens with a lemony freshness that is given weight and depth with powdery orris and leather. The leather is not a hard type, but buttery soft and smooth. An old fashioned tea rose and geranium note complements the orris and leather and adds to the plush feeling. A hint of bitter, green herbs keeps the scent from becoming purse or makeup-bag like, and as it dries down a wonderful mossy note emerges. This McCartney has a skilled and artful hand with moss, and this is no exception. As the main notes of the fragrance fade a bit, a minty, refreshing aspect become noticeable. It seems to be accented with orange blossom or neroli, and it cool and floral and delightful. This phase brings to mind Green Water, and more shockingly, the limited edition Tauer, Hyacinth and a Mechanic, which pairs hyacinth and leather, with a good dose of mint in the drydown. After a few hours, the scent is faint but remains a fresh with the minty floral atop a hint of leather.
    There are always flowers for those who want to see them.
    ~ Henri Matisse

  29. #419
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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Quote Originally Posted by cestrum nocturnum View Post
    Wow, Bavard, you *are* totally a sample pass-pro! How do you do it?!? I agree that Inevitable Crimes was really different! The mushroomy composting-mulch aspect was unlike anything I have ever smelled in a perfume and was so spot on to that extremely particular odor, it was absolutely transporting-- like walking over a crunchy layer of decomposing wood mulch on a cold day where the heat of the decomposition helps the scent plume up with each step. Very trippy! I think regarding the Mrs. Gloss sample, the labeling was just different on the different samples in the advent batch and the West coast package. The complete name is Mrs. Gloss and the Goss: Lemon Sherbet. 4160 has several different Mrs. Gloss fragrances, too. http://www.4160tuesdays.com/4160tues...-Editions.html Sorry if I added any confusion, but I think there was also a question about the samples previously upthread somewhere. I’m happy that you liked it! I really enjoyed it too. Have you tried Eau de Shalimar? I had to wear EdS again after PerfumedLady drew that astute comparison, and I was reminded of how much I love that fragrance! It’s one of those that feels like it could be an easy daily wear. BTW, I am so happy to be in your company as you are sampling! And of course with our lovely hostess, too!!! (((Group hug))))
    I do two-a-days, back of the left hand for the first, and when it's sufficiently settled, back of the right hand for the second. I live-post impressions as they occur to me.

    I have not tried Eau de Shalimar, but I would like to at some point, and maybe some other Shalimar flankers as well. I have Mexique, but that's the only flanker I've tried.

    I was especially interested in your notes on Silk, Lace, and Chocolate, and we seem to agree about it, except I think I could easily wear it out and about. The comment about wanting to wear a bigger helping is telling, and I agree.
    Last edited by Bavard; 15th February 2018 at 10:51 PM.

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    Default Re: 4160 Tuesdays sampling group

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    It sounds like you found your wow!
    This round has been good so far. I've been wowed at various points in the developments of:

    1. What Katie Did on Friday Night (I might want to wear this one again. I think I have a crush on Katie, an oily floral.)
    2. Inevitable Crimes of Passion (A huge wood note that's actually part coffee and mushroom.)
    3. Mrs. Gloss & the Goss: Lemon Sherbet (Really tasty, wearable sweet notes.)
    4. What I Did on My Holidays (It gets so nice in the base, rounded, salty sweet coconut.)

    Today I'm wearing Ealing Green. From the initial opening, it felt like it might not be that interesting, but it becomes really nice within 20 minutes, a little Chanel No. 19-esque.

    Of the first six in this round, only Captured by Candlelight hasn't been a clear thumbs up. I enjoyed reading Cestrum's review upthread, I love the agreement.




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