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  1. #1

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    Default Osmotheque conferences

    Preview of the Osmotheque program in the fall.
    It goes without saying, all of the below makes me salivate and sorry that I am not in Paris.

    "In addition to the bimonthly history of perfumery classes in Versailles, the Osmotheque will propose a program of thematic conferences in Paris at the Ipag. Among the first themes: Christian Dior-70 years of perfumed creations, Maison Weil-hommage to Jean Pierre Weil, Patchouli, A century of chypres, Maison Caron, Iris in majesty."

    En complément des conférences olfactives "Histoire de la Parfumerie" ayant lieu 2 samedis par mois à Versailles, l'Osmothèque propose un programme de conférences thématiques mensuel sur Paris à l'Ipag. La programmation définitive sera communiquée à la rentrée. Ci-dessous, en images un aperçu des premiers thèmes qui vous seront proposés :
    Christian Dior : 70 ans de créations parfumées, Maison Weil : Hommage à Jean-Pierre Weil, Le Patchouli, Un siècle de Chypres, Maison Caron, L'Iris en Majesté...

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    They always offer such interesting lectures.
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    They always offer such interesting lectures.
    They sure do. I'd happily attend every one of them.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    It would be so nice to have this near ME!


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  5. #5
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Preview of the Osmotheque program in the fall.
    It goes without saying, all of the below makes me salivate and sorry that I am not in Paris.

    "In addition to the bimonthly history of perfumery classes in Versailles, the Osmotheque will propose a program of thematic conferences in Paris at the Ipag. Among the first themes: Christian Dior-70 years of perfumed creations, Maison Weil-hommage to Jean Pierre Weil, Patchouli, A century of chypres, Maison Caron, Iris in majesty."

    En complément des conférences olfactives "Histoire de la Parfumerie" ayant lieu 2 samedis par mois à Versailles, l'Osmothèque propose un programme de conférences thématiques mensuel sur Paris à l'Ipag. La programmation définitive sera communiquée à la rentrée. Ci-dessous, en images un aperçu des premiers thèmes qui vous seront proposés :
    Christian Dior : 70 ans de créations parfumées, Maison Weil : Hommage à Jean-Pierre Weil, Le Patchouli, Un siècle de Chypres, Maison Caron, L'Iris en Majesté...
    Thanks for the heads-up. I can't see any of this information on their (badly organised) website, alas, and only two events are listed beyond July. Am I looking in the wrong place?

  6. #6

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Sam

    I don't think they have been posted yet (see below), I got this from a preview email from their mail list. I assume the dates will be posted next month on the activite' part of their website.

    cacio

    Chers amis,

    L' Osmothèque s'apprête à fermer ses portes pour les congés d'été jusqu'au dimanche 20 Août 2017.
    Dès septembre, vous pourrez découvrir sur notre site internet les détails du programme et des activités proposés par l'Osmothèque et la SAO.
    La rentrée sera riche en rencontres et découvertes olfactives, avec un premier temps fort à l'occasion des Journées du Patrimoine le samedi 16 septembre autour du thème de la jeunesse.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Sam

    I don't think they have been posted yet (see below), I got this from a preview email from their mail list. I assume the dates will be posted next month on the activite' part of their website.

    cacio

    Chers amis,

    L' Osmothèque s'apprête à fermer ses portes pour les congés d'été jusqu'au dimanche 20 Août 2017.
    Dès septembre, vous pourrez découvrir sur notre site internet les détails du programme et des activités proposés par l'Osmothèque et la SAO.
    La rentrée sera riche en rencontres et découvertes olfactives, avec un premier temps fort à l'occasion des Journées du Patrimoine le samedi 16 septembre autour du thème de la jeunesse.
    Ah, that must be it. I did wonder. Thank you. There's quite a lot I wouldn't want to miss!

  8. #8

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Just received an email about the upcoming lecture on parfums Dior. This will be done by a Dior employee - and not a perfumer - I wonder what the job of the brand culture and heritage director is. Probably just a different way to say head of marketing. In fact, it seems they are going to talk about the chateau La Colle Noir, which I assume has been turned into a fancy resort for social media stars.

    That said, just smelling the old Diors would be worth it (provided one is indeed going to smell the old ones, not the reformulations).

    September 26
    "Les 70 ans des Parfums Dior"
    Conférence Olfactive

    A l’occasion de l’anniversaire d’une maison très prestigieuse, l’Osmothèque est heureuse d’accueillir Frédéric Bourdelier, directeur Brand Culture & Heritage de Christian Dior Parfums, et Vincent Leret, chargé du Patrimoine et des Collections, qui donneront une conférence sur "Les 70 ans des Parfums Dior".
    Depuis 1947, les parfums Christian Dior ont marqué l’histoire de la parfumerie contemporaine. Les créations les plus emblématiques seront présentées (Miss Dior, Eau Sauvage, Poison, J’Adore…) ainsi que l’histoire de Christian Dior au Château de la Colle Noire et l’attachement de la maison Christian Dior Parfums au patrimoine grassois.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    It sounds like it would be interesting to be there. Thanks for the ongoing info about these conferences.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
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  10. #10
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    I received the email yesterday and am tempted ... but the fact that it's being presented by two Dior bigwigs, as you say, puts me off (plus mention of the Colle Noire). An objective but informed outsider view would have much more interesting.

  11. #11

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    New email: patchouli. Somehow, patch doesn excite me as much as some other lectures (cuir, muscs etc). But interesting it is.

    Tuesday 21 november 2017: The nobility of patchouli
    Patchouli was introduced to France from England in the middle of the XIX century. In this period, patchouli gains a sinful reputation being associated with "demi-mondaines". Its reputation didn't improve in the hippy period of the 1960s-70s, which abused essential oils of bad quality.
    Instead, patchouli is a note that, delicately dosed, is essential in the numerous perfumes of the woody, chypre, and even oriental family.
    With the specialist of natural materials Daniel Joulain, the Osmotheque will make you discover the characteristics of patchouli, whose essential oil presents varied facets depending on the treatment of the leaves.
    You will smell a selection of perfumes in which patchouli has a big role. This beautiful material with an intense perfume, given new life in recent years, has not yet revealed its complete quintessence.
    Intervening: Daniel Joulain, old research director at Robertet and specialist of natural materials
    Patricia de Nicolai, perfumer and president of the Osmotheque.

    Mardi 21 Novembre 2017
    A 19h à l'IPAG (Paris)
    "La noblesse méconnue du patchouli"
    La senteur du patchouli s’est introduite en France et en Angleterre au milieu du 19ème siècle. Dès cette époque, le patchouli gagne une réputation sulfureuse en étant associé aux demi-mondaines. Sa réputation n’a pas été améliorée par la période hippie des années 1960-70 qui a fait un usage abusif d’huiles essentielles de mauvaise qualité, ce qui a contribué à sa renommée équivoque.

    Pourtant, le patchouli est une senteur qui, délicatement dosée, est essentielle dans de très nombreux parfums de la famille des boisés, des chypres, et même des orientaux.

    Avec la participation du spécialiste des matières premières naturelles Daniel Joulain l’Osmothèque vous fera découvrir les spécificités du patchouli dont l’huile essentielle présente des facettes particulièrement variées en fonction du traitement que les feuilles ont subi.
    Vous pourrez sentir une sélection non exhaustive de parfums dans lesquels le patchouli tient une place prépondérante. Cette belle matière première au parfum puissant, portée par un nouveau souffle depuis quelques années, n’a sans doute pas encore livré toute sa quintessence.

    Intervenants :

    Daniel Joulain, Ancien directeur de recherche chez Robertet et spécialiste des matières premières naturelles

    Patricia De Nicolaï, Parfumeur créateur et Présidente de l'Osmothèque

  12. #12

    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    I would love to attend...alas....
    Fate gives all of us three teachers, three friends, three enemies, and three great loves in our lives. But these twelve are always disguised, and we never know which one is which until we've loved them, left them, or fought them.

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    Currently wearing: Angel by Thierry Mugler

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    This one would be a dream: 100 years of chypres (monday dec 4)

    Participants:
    Parfumeurs Osmothécaires : Jean Kerléo - Patricia de Nicolaï - Christophe Laudamiel - Bernard Bourgeois - Thomas Fontaine - Bruno Hervé
    Parfumeurs invités : Edouard Fléchier - Marc Antoine Corticciato - Florence Idier

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    This one would be a dream: 100 years of chypres (monday dec 4)

    Participants:
    Parfumeurs Osmothécaires : Jean Kerléo - Patricia de Nicolaï - Christophe Laudamiel - Bernard Bourgeois - Thomas Fontaine - Bruno Hervé
    Parfumeurs invités : Edouard Fléchier - Marc Antoine Corticciato - Florence Idier
    Wow! What a lineup of participants!
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    I signed up this afternoon! Looking forward to this one immensely.

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    I signed up this afternoon! Looking forward to this one immensely.
    Lucky you!
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Another treat for those lucky guys:

    tuesday jan 23, 7 pm, 184 bld Saint Germain, Paris
    Iris in Majesty
    Bernard Bourgeois
    Iris is probably the most unique and precious material in perfumery. Seeked by perfumers for its floral woody alchemy, for its provision of richness and density, for its contribution to a rare and elegant signature. Prized for its disturbing sillage. Iris, a material that requires patience and whose olfactive character develops and refines over time. A material that one needs to be able to tame.

    L’Iris est probablement la matière la plus singulière et la plus précieuse qui soit. Recherchée par les parfumeurs pour son alchimie florale boisée, pour son apport de richesse et de densité, pour sa contribution à une signature rare et élégante. Prisée pour son sillage troublant. L’Iris, une matière qui implique un savoir faire patient et dont le caractère olfactif dominant s’affine et se construit avec le temps. Une matière qu’il faut savoir apprivoiser. Dédiée à une parfumerie de noble tradition et d’excellence.

  18. #18

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Somehow, I'm less drawn to this than to other lectures, but still ...

    Petite histoire d'une grande matière première : la lavande (par Ange Zola)

    In the course of the XIX century, lavender cultivation developed in the south of France. The great english perfume (English lavender, Yardley...) attest the development of this family. In the 60s, the competition of import lavender and the development of functional perfumery, determine the decline of this essential oil. It took all the effort of the agricultural and professional industry to relaunch this material in the 2000s.

    Tuesday february 13 2018 - 7pm, IPAG business school

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Wednesday march 21
    The Huets, a dynasty of perfumers at the court of Versailles
    During the Ancien Regime, the glovers-perfumers (gantiers parfumeurs) produced several goods: gloves, scented waters, powders, pommades, makeup. Among the many artisans, some primarily served the court of Versailles. Among these, the Huet dynasty, fom the kingom of Luis XIV to that of Louis XVI. The Huet family, whose store A l'Orangerie Royale was in the heart of Paris, sold its perfumes to a large part of the court and the royal family. Through the history of this family, one can learn the history of a whole social and professional environment, the organization and the evolution of a century of perfumery business as well as the the relation that these artisan had with their suppliers and clients and the socio-cultural environment in which they lived.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    That sounds absolutely fascinating.
    October rotation : Knize Ten, Gomma, Yatagan, Gucci Guilty Absolute, Tuscany, Elixir, Avignon.
    October samples : finishing Hermes Bel Ami, Bel Ami Vetiver, Lalique Encre Noire a l'Extreme. Sampling TF Ombre Leather, ELdO Je Suis un Homme, Eloge du Traitre, Odin 07 Tanoke.
    Currently wearing: Knize Ten by Knize

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    At esxence Milan. For once, not in Paris-still, I'm not there either, but if somebody is going there:
    100 year of Chypre -a hommage. Saturday april 7 1230.

    Pour une conférence olfactive exceptionnelle :
    "100 ans de Chypre - Hommage" par Bruno Hervé
    Samedi 7 Avril 2018 à 12H30
    https://osmotheque.us10.list-manage....8&e=af3e35ceae

  22. #22

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    More goodies from the osmotheque. The Beaux one sounds really intriguing. More findings on Chanel No 5, and the Rallet, and the relation between the two?

    Thu may 24 2018
    IPAG 184 bld Saint Germain 75006 Paris, 19h - 20h30
    "Moscou, Cannes, Paris ... L'incroyable parcours d'Ernest Beaux"
    Olivier David, enseignant-chercheur à l'Université Versailles-St-Quentin
    Patricia de Nicolaï, parfumeur-créateur et présidente de l'Osmothèque.

    Tue 18 june 2018
    "La Bergamote de Calabre, un produit agricole équitable"
    IPAG 184 bld Saint Germain 75006 Paris, 19h - 20h30
    Gianfranco Capua, CEO Capua
    Thomas Fontaine, parfumeur - osmothécaire

    History of perfumery in Versailles
    - Mercredi 16 mai à 14h Intervenant : Bernard Bourgeois
    - Samedi 26 mai à 10h Intervenant : Bruno Hervé
    - Samedi 2 juin à 14h Intervenant : Daniel Molière

    June 7, 8 et 9 2018, in Grasse, Galerie Olfactive: " 25 trésors des collections de l'Osmothèque".

  23. #23

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Le marche' brasilien des parfums (Renata Aschar)
    tue sep 25
    Description below. I didn't know it's the second largest market in the world-seems strange. I think I remember reading (and our Brasilian BNers can confirm) that the market is special because of huge tariffs that make it really hard to import perfumes. Which explains the size of the local groups.


    Brasil is the second world market for perfumes in terms of value, just behind the US. It represents more than half of perfume sales in Latin America, with historically established groups: Boticario and Natura, true local cosmetic empires. What about other brands? What is the Brasilian perfume culture? What are the market tendeis? What future can one imagine for perfumery in Brasil?

    Le Brésil est le second marché mondial du parfum en valeur, juste derrière les États-Unis. Il représente plus de la moitié des ventes de parfums en Amérique latine, avec des groupes historiques très fortement implantés : Boticário et Natura, véritables empires cosmétiques locaux.
    Qu’en est-il des autres marques ? Quelle est la culture parfum du Brésil ? Quelles sont les tendances de ce marché ? Quel futur peut-on imaginer pour la parfumerie au Brésil ?

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Le marche' brasilien des parfums (Renata Aschar)
    tue sep 25
    Description below. I didn't know it's the second largest market in the world-seems strange. I think I remember reading (and our Brasilian BNers can confirm) that the market is special because of huge tariffs that make it really hard to import perfumes. Which explains the size of the local groups.
    In one of several documentaries on perfumes that I watched this year (I've forgotten the title, but it was made by the BBC and opened with a scene of Chandler Burr testing Mugler's Womanity on his leg), there was a long segment on a perfume marketing consultant from New York running focus group tests on young Brazilian males, and they talked a great deal about the characteristics of the market there. They mentioned that Avon has a huge footprint in Brazil, but I don't recall any mention of tariff problems.

    I'll bet Hednic would know more about this.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Le marche' brasilien des parfums (Renata Aschar)
    tue sep 25
    Description below. I didn't know it's the second largest market in the world-seems strange. I think I remember reading (and our Brasilian BNers can confirm) that the market is special because of huge tariffs that make it really hard to import perfumes. Which explains the size of the local groups.


    Brasil is the second world market for perfumes in terms of value, just behind the US. It represents more than half of perfume sales in Latin America, with historically established groups: Boticario and Natura, true local cosmetic empires. What about other brands? What is the Brasilian perfume culture? What are the market tendeis? What future can one imagine for perfumery in Brasil?

    Le Brésil est le second marché mondial du parfum en valeur, juste derrière les États-Unis. Il représente plus de la moitié des ventes de parfums en Amérique latine, avec des groupes historiques très fortement implantés : Boticário et Natura, véritables empires cosmétiques locaux.
    Qu’en est-il des autres marques ? Quelle est la culture parfum du Brésil ? Quelles sont les tendances de ce marché ? Quel futur peut-on imaginer pour la parfumerie au Brésil ?
    This one sounds very interesting.
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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Cook.bot
    I recall the documentary as well. Probably it must have been linked in a thread here somewhere. There was this consultant testing an axe/lynx type of thing with teenagers there, who apparently liked fruity and sweet (any difference with the US?). I found it strange too that it didn't talk about tariffs, but as usual when talking about perfumery people often miss the important points.

    cacio

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    Little history of aldehydes
    Date : 5 Novembre à 19h à Paris (IPAG)
    Synthesized at the beginning of the XX century and initially used parsimoniously, the aliphatic aldehydes have become fundamental molecules in all labs. Patricia de Nicolai and Florence Idier will retrace the path of the famous aldehydes with enigmatic names like C6, C7, C8, C12 and will explain how these molecules have influenced perfumers' work.

    Bases in perfumery - part 2
    Date : 28 novembre à Paris (IPAG)
    The use of bases in perfumery is primordial. After those of the maison De Laire, the osmotheque and synarome will show you some freshly recreated treasures. Isabelle Fritsch from Synarome will tell you the rich history of this firms and its famous bases. Patricia de Nicolai will present you perfumes from the collections of l'osmotheque built around these famous bases.

    Caron: perfumes and beauty since 1904
    Mardi 11 décembre à 19h à Paris (IPAG)
    Today more than yesterday and more so tomorrow, Caron is a house of excellence that conjugates its art of perfumes, luxury crafts, and its permanent need to preserve its olfactory identity in the cage of contemporary perfumery.
    Behind this name that sounds like a theatrical piece, two personalities created perfumes that were revolutionary in their era: Ernest Daltroff and Felicie Bergaud. Shocking and tempestuous couple, Ernest and Felicie orchestrated and signed perfumes that are still known and recognized not only in Europe but also in the US. The unforgettable sillages and the subtly provocating bouquets have the name of N'aimez que moi, tabac blond, nuit de noel, Bellodgia, without forgetting Fleurs de Rocaille and the famous Pour un homme.
    Jean-marie Martin Hattemberg and the osmotheque will make you rediscover this prestigious maison.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Little history of aldehydes
    Date : 5 Novembre à 19h à Paris (IPAG)
    Synthesized at the beginning of the XX century and initially used parsimoniously, the aliphatic aldehydes have become fundamental molecules in all labs. Patricia de Nicolai and Florence Idier will retrace the path of the famous aldehydes with enigmatic names like C6, C7, C8, C12 and will explain how these molecules have influenced perfumers' work.

    Bases in perfumery - part 2
    Date : 28 novembre à Paris (IPAG)
    The use of bases in perfumery is primordial. After those of the maison De Laire, the osmotheque and synarome will show you some freshly recreated treasures. Isabelle Fritsch from Synarome will tell you the rich history of this firms and its famous bases. Patricia de Nicolai will present you perfumes from the collections of l'osmotheque built around these famous bases.

    Caron: perfumes and beauty since 1904
    Mardi 11 décembre à 19h à Paris (IPAG)
    Today more than yesterday and more so tomorrow, Caron is a house of excellence that conjugates its art of perfumes, luxury crafts, and its permanent need to preserve its olfactory identity in the cage of contemporary perfumery.
    Behind this name that sounds like a theatrical piece, two personalities created perfumes that were revolutionary in their era: Ernest Daltroff and Felicie Bergaud. Shocking and tempestuous couple, Ernest and Felicie orchestrated and signed perfumes that are still known and recognized not only in Europe but also in the US. The unforgettable sillages and the subtly provocating bouquets have the name of N'aimez que moi, tabac blond, nuit de noel, Bellodgia, without forgetting Fleurs de Rocaille and the famous Pour un homme.
    Jean-marie Martin Hattemberg and the osmotheque will make you rediscover this prestigious maison.
    Sounds wonderful...wish I could attend.
    Fate gives all of us three teachers, three friends, three enemies, and three great loves in our lives. But these twelve are always disguised, and we never know which one is which until we've loved them, left them, or fought them.

    Gregory David Roberts
    Currently wearing: Angel by Thierry Mugler

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    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    The golden age of Italian perfumery - jan 23 7 pm
    http://www.osmotheque.fr/calendrier/...rie-italienne/

    Another juicy conference (if only I was in Paris). From the description, it's actually not clear what period, if any, it refers to. But clearly a very interesting one, with reference to some perfumes that I have never smelled. If any BNer goes there, I'd love to hear what was smelled.


    The golden age of Italian perfumery - jan 23 7 pm
    (by Hermano Picco & Bernard Bourgeois)

    The classic period of Italian perfumery began in the Reinassance with Catherine de Medici in Florence. Though Venice was also a great influence through the following centuries, it was in France that the perfume industry developed thanks to new techniques and fruitful contacts between arts and fashion. Perfumes enter daily life, and a golden age of perfumery begins.

    In Italy, the pefumery environment is atypical and it's composed by a multitute of small artisanal shops, and it is only starting from the 1930s that names like Bertelli, Adam and Gi. Vi. Emme enter the scene, thanks to innovative and abstract (?) creations that capture the attention of foreigners.

    1937 is a reference year - Elsa Schiaparelli, the "Italian artist who makes clothes", known for her impertinent creations, launches her first perfume, Shocking, and Vittorio Bertelli is recognized at the Exposition Internationale des arts e techniques in Paris for "Come tu mi vuoi" (as you want me).

    After that, Italian perfumery continues to grow, on the background of a "made in Italy" recognized for its quality and elegance, as illustrated by movies like La dolce vita.

    Some emblematic examples of the Italian style of the 60s and 70s are the creations of Emilio Schubert, Roberto Capucci, or Gucci, that open the gate to many other Italian brands.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Thanks cacio for this information!




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