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  1. #1
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    There are two list of AC at the forum frequently discussed- The start kit of 100 AC and Jean-Claude Ellena 200 AC list.
    Why don't we do a list of essential AC (not oil)(not mentioned in Chris Bartlett's 100 start kit) for modern perfumery everybody should try? may 50, may be 100....
    Imho, It would be helpful for those like me searching and exploring new AC...

    Amber Xtreme
    Ambrinol
    Dihydroambrate
    Polysantol
    Corps racine
    Corps Eglantine
    Caramel furanone
    Cinnamalva
    Florol
    Furfuryl Mercaptan
    4-ethylphenol
    Allyl Phenoxyacetate
    Bacdanol
    Bicyclononalactone
    Poivrol
    Bornafix
    Pandanol
    Jasmacyclene
    Citronellyl Nitrile
    Dihydrojasmone
    Filbertone
    Fleuramone
    Grapefruit Mercaptan
    Isovaleric Acid
    Javanol
    Liffarome
    Creosol
    P-Tolualdehyde
    Para-Methyl Acetophenone
    Hyacinth Body №3
    Trepanol
    Trimofix
    Ribes Mercaptan
    Nonadienal
    Isobutavan
    Lillyflore
    Adoxal
    Firsantol
    Methyl Cyclopentenolone

    Would be thankful for your addition....
    Last edited by Serg Ixygon; 14th August 2017 at 05:14 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    Not adding new items but commenting on ones you have mentioned: corps racine is crazy! It is so incredibly powerful that if you don't dose it perfectly you end up with the smell of burnt rubber. A truly great basenote green though. And cresol+vanillin gives you a close approximation of real vanilla absolute.

    You mentioned polysantol but left of something that I think is a must have to use with it: firsantol. Those two in concert with sandela make an amazing sandalwood accord. I would also add a touch of hindinol too.
    Currently wearing: Tabu by Dana

  3. #3
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    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    I'm baffled by this list as an aromachem beginner. I am interested in what hedione can do, how ambroxan works and what different musks add to the base.

    Oh, and aldehydes! I recently made an all natural reed diffuser that smelled gorgeous close up but just wouldnt project, and then i added some aldehydes and hedione and suddenly it was throwing scent everywhere and the first time i went "Ahhh! I get what they mean now".
    Last edited by Clare30; 12th August 2017 at 08:14 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    There are many in this list that I would not consider as part of the "50 Aromachemicals for modern perfume". Corps Racine has been mentioned as an ingredient that is so strong that it can only be used in tiny amounts by an experienced Perfumer. Many others in your list fall into the same category. They are simply ingredients that are used in trace amounts to boost an already existing perfume; something to make it stronger, or more interesting. The 50 essential ingredients, surely are those which are found in pretty well all contemporary fragrances. I realise that you have an antipathy towards Essential oils, although I do not understand why this should be, so we can ignore them. However, there are many vital ingredients that are missing. I do not wish to add to this list before removing many that are unnecessary.

    It seems to me that this list is merely a list of those ingredients that you have recently bought and that you like the smell of. An Essential list should, I feel, have something else to it.
    Last edited by David Ruskin; 12th August 2017 at 08:17 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    Quote Originally Posted by Clare30 View Post
    I'm baffled by this list as an aromachem beginner. I am interested in what hedione can do, how ambroxan works and what different musks add to the base.

    Oh, and aldehydes! I recently made an all natural reed diffuser that smelled gorgeous close up but just wouldnt project, and then i added some aldehydes and hedione and suddenly it was throwing scent everywhere and the first time i went "Ahhh! I get what they mean now".
    Careful with the Hedione with a Reed Diffuser; it will slow down the emanation drastically.

  6. #6
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    Jaimie, I'm very thankful that you mentioned corps racine at once somewhere so I can bought it. Crazy powerful - it means it's cheap in using! Mostly I do not buy expensive AC with moderate or weak strength because in that case you should better know why and how. For curiosity and training cheaper is better.

    David, I create that thread for experinced perfumers can recommend their list of 50 AC essential for modern perfumes. It's not for me , it's for forum and all of us. My supplier has more than 1000 AC, others have also thousands. We need a compass!

  7. #7

    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    There is already a list of 100 "essential" aromachemicls. Why not start from there? If you wish me to prune that list, I can do so, but surely it is better for you, and others, to try then all.

    UPDATE
    trying to find the 100 AC list; and cannot. Anyone know where it is hiding? It should have its own sticky, I think.
    Last edited by David Ruskin; 13th August 2017 at 09:14 AM.

  8. #8
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    David, I do have practically all AC from the 100 AC start list plus 100-150 others. Here it is 100 AC list-
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/374...Aromachemicals
    Some AC I don't have for some personal reason - I do have natural castoreum and 4-ethyl phenol- so, I don't want to buy castoreum replacer.

    Yes, David, It'll be great to have your list of any number AC essential for MODERN perfumes which were not included at 100 AC start list.
    Last edited by Serg Ixygon; 13th August 2017 at 09:28 AM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    Thanks for finding the list. I still think it should be highlighted so that it is easy for everyone to locate it. Quickly scanning it I cannot think of any others I would add, for a beginner.

    I am still somewhat confused by your intentions Serg. Firstly you say that the list is "not for me, it's for forum, and all of us". Then you say that you have all of the aromachemicals mentioned on the 100 list, and seem to want more. You have spent a great deal of time asking our opinions of various new ingredients you have come across. Isn't that enough for the moment?

  10. #10
    Dependent NebelGeīst's Avatar
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    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    When reading the topic I thought I knew a few ACs that would surely show up, but I am missing them all. I do not like all of them but would consider them as essential for modern perfumes. Ambroxan, Iso E Super, Hedione, Cashmeran, Dihydromyrcenol, Evernyl are among them. But I'm only a hobbyist with limited experience, not an expert who's opinion was called.
    Though, I have Filbertone but haven't worked with it yet. Is it of any use for anything else than hazelnut/pralinés accords? Maybe it has a totally different ecceft when paired with the right AC? But if not, personally I'd say it's not versatile enough to show up in a list of 50 essential ACs.
    "A small joke (admittedly a subject of debate) became an affair of state, a fart became a tsunami" (Oliver Kalkofe)

  11. #11

    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    Quote Originally Posted by NebelGeīst View Post
    When reading the topic I thought I knew a few ACs that would surely show up, but I am missing them all. I do not like all of them but would consider them as essential for modern perfumes. Ambroxan, Iso E Super, Hedione, Cashmeran, Dihydromyrcenol, Evernyl are among them. But I'm only a hobbyist with limited experience, not an expert who's opinion was called.
    They aren't listed because they are already in that "100 ACs"-list that Serg mentioned and linked to. Everynyl is listed as Veramoss.
    Last edited by Nasenmann; 13th August 2017 at 12:43 PM.

  12. #12
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    Dear friends, please, do not mention and discuss ACs which are already in the 100 start kit like Hedion or Iso E Super. Let's go further.

    No, David, it is not enough! I met new and new ACs on the streets from people wearing perfumes and I don't know what is it while I usually recognize main ACs in perfume. There is a huge bulk of AC which I don't know. Yes, part of them are captives but I believe that there are some left to get known and bought :-)

  13. #13

    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    Quote Originally Posted by NebelGeīst View Post
    When reading the topic I thought I knew a few ACs that would surely show up, but I am missing them all. I do not like all of them but would consider them as essential for modern perfumes. Ambroxan, Iso E Super, Hedione, Cashmeran, Dihydromyrcenol, Evernyl are among them. But I'm only a hobbyist with limited experience, not an expert who's opinion was called.
    Though, I have Filbertone but haven't worked with it yet. Is it of any use for anything else than hazelnut/pralinés accords? Maybe it has a totally different ecceft when paired with the right AC? But if not, personally I'd say it's not versatile enough to show up in a list of 50 essential ACs.
    Filbertone, like several other aromachemicals on this new list, is a modifier; a very strong smelling material which can often have an unexpected effect. Try small amounts with something gourmand and Vanilla based. Try some with a woody and/or herbal fragrance. I hope you will be pleasantly surprised.

    Several others should be smelled at very low concentration (<0.1%). Then let your imagination go free. Several will work with Floral and Fruity notes, to create a profound effect. They are like the small pinch of a spice that makes all the difference when cooking.

  14. #14

    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    Dear friends, please, do not mention and discuss ACs which are already in the 100 start kit like Hedion or Iso E Super. Let's go further.

    No, David, it is not enough! I met new and new ACs on the streets from people wearing perfumes and I don't know what is it while I usually recognize main ACs in perfume. There is a huge bulk of AC which I don't know. Yes, part of them are captives but I believe that there are some left to get known and bought :-)

    We must agree to disagree. I think you should spend time learning and learning how to use the materials you already have. You think that the more ingredients you have the better Perfumer you will be.

    We must agree to differ.

  15. #15
    Basenotes Junkie Serg Ixygon's Avatar
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    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    David, there are problems which could be easily solved with one AC. Today I read the thread made a few years ago about making sandal by AC. I was shocked by advises, which AC to use. Now, when a lot good sandal AC is available the advises are totally changed. Yes, the more ACs you have the more problems could be easily solved.
    Nobody can tell me due to what AC Ralph Lorenn Safari for Men has so diffusive and longlasting sandal note. It's masterpiece of craftsmanship!!!!!! No, it's Polysantol.

  16. #16

    Default Re: 50 AC essential for modern perfume you must try

    Quote Originally Posted by Serg Ixygon View Post
    David, there are problems which could be easily solved with one AC. Today I read the thread made a few years ago about making sandal by AC. I was shocked by advises, which AC to use. Now, when a lot good sandal AC is available the advises are totally changed. Yes, the more ACs you have the more problems could be easily solved.
    Nobody can tell me due to what AC Ralph Lorenn Safari for Men has so diffusive and longlasting sandal note. It's masterpiece of craftsmanship!!!!!! No, it's Polysantol.
    Very, very few. In all the years I was working I never found one magic ingredient. Safari for Men has that note because of certain ingredients, used correctly. You seem to think that if you have all of the ingredients found in a particular fragrance, you will become as good a Perfumer as the one who created that fragrance. Let me tell you something, you won't. It is like thinking that if you had all of the paints, and the brushes that Van Gough used, you would be able to paint like him; of course you would not.

    You always like to have the final word, so no doubt you will come back to this. Again, we must agree to differ.

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