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  1. #271
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Yep Sous le Vent is, I think, my favorite chypre. I love it. Bavard have you smelled Philtre d'Amour by Guerlain? Which, IMO, is very close to SLV. It, and Aubepine Acacia by Creed are very similar and maybe *those* have more in common with the Dior.

    I will take note of both, next time I wear Sous le Vent and Diorella.
    I still consider Sous Le Vent my favorite in this green aromatic genre. It's not loud at the opening like Diorella or Aubepine Acacia.

    I will say that I enjoy Diorella more than Aubepine Acacia.

    A crazy thought I could sell off my flacon of Aubepine Acacia and stock up on vintage Diorella and or some of the other Dior if I enjoy wearing them.
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  2. #272
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    Same here! Excited for you to join in, N.Cal! That's a very interesting swap you two did; well done! I'm also enjoying your Neil Morris posts, grayspoole! Looking forward to more!
    PL if time allows a little later down the road you could participate as well. There's definitely a lot of names that I know you haven't tried yet.
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  3. #273
    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I will say that I enjoy Diorella more than Aubepine Acacia.

    A crazy thought I could sell off my flacon of Aubepine Acacia and stock up on vintage Diorella and or some of the other Dior if I enjoy wearing them.
    I think you could definitely wear vintage Diorella, N.Cal. I am astounded that vintage Diorella may be winning out over a rare Creed for you.

    So is this happening too?

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  4. #274
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I've just spent a delightful all-Diorama afternoon, comparing lavish applications of Grayspoole's, Bavard's and mine. This is perfume heaven for me....Tomorrow I'm going to move on to Diorling, my bottle of which came from Epapsiou's giant Vat o' Dior that he pictured here.
    Great comparisons of the Dioramas, Cook.bot. Did you have any thoughts on the Diorama-Mitsouko question? Or the Diorama-vintage non-cuminy Femme question? If memory serves, you like vintage Femme but you don't like Mitsouko. Is Diorama your favorite of the three?

    If I had to choose, in some hypothetical alternate world, I think I would have to pick vintage Mitsouko. Which is very strange since I didn't like Mitsouko at all at first, and I liked Femme and Diorama immediately.

    Anyone else want to play? Three vintage bottles..in your preferred vintage formulation...Mitsouko, Diorama, and Femme. Which would you choose?
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  5. #275
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I will say that I enjoy Diorella more than Aubepine Acacia.
    <THUD>

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Great comparisons of the Dioramas, Cook.bot. Did you have any thoughts on the Diorama-Mitsouko question? Or the Diorama-vintage non-cuminy Femme question? If memory serves, you like vintage Femme but you don't like Mitsouko. Is Diorama your favorite of the three?
    Frankly I see virtually no relation between the three of them. All three may have fruit accords, but the fruits are all very different. All three wear completely differently in terms of weight and texture. And Diorama is by a very long distance my favorite of the three.

    I don't dislike Mitsouko, in fact I own it and admire it very much. How could anyone not? It just isn't something I want to wear much. Without any hesitation the hierarchy for me goes:

    Diorama > Femme > Mitsouko

    And now I'm dying to know if you found my Diorama sample lacking the animalic quality that I sensed in yours.

  6. #276
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I'll be sampling for the first time ever Diorella later tonight.
    Just for purposes of clarity for anyone reading this thread 10 years from now:

    If I know anything at all about Grayspoole, I'll bet that N.Cal's sample of Diorella from her did not come from a bottle like the one in N.Cal's photo. I'm pretty sure she's houndstooth-era all the way, like this:




    Correct me if I'm wrong, Grayspoole.

  7. #277
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    ...What did you think of Dryad, Mike? The rapturous reviews had me almost ready to blind buy, but I found the sample did not live up to the hype.
    Dryad by Papillon Perfumes is a bit more rough-edged. Probably because it has more 'naturals' I guess? The top notes are very close to Vol de Nuit and Miss Dior but there is a green, raspy quality to the notes. And then the animalics arrive - not skanky, per se. Not poop. Not barnyard. But something else...the smell of dogs breath perhaps? Or the smell of an animal in the same room with you. I, of course, love the Guerlainade base in my fragrances, so the absence of this in the Dryad leaves me a bit dissatisfied. I have never worn it in cool, Fall/Winter weather, maybe it would wear a bit differently? I might put my decant away and come back to it later in the year. Let's see.

    In the meantime, I have only a few drops left of Vol de Nuit parfum. Then it's gone. So...that puts me in the market for some vintage Miss Dior. Right!?

    ((insert justification here))
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Dryad by Papillon Perfumes is a bit more rough-edged. Probably because it has more 'naturals' I guess? The top notes are very close to Vol de Nuit and Miss Dior but there is a green, raspy quality to the notes. And then the animalics arrive - not skanky, per se. Not poop. Not barnyard. But something else...the smell of dogs breath perhaps? Or the smell of an animal in the same room with you.
    That smell of animalic fur in Dryad was the thing I liked best about it -- so much like nosing a warm animal, or a human scalp. But like Grayspoole I felt the rest didn't live up to it, and like you I found it rough/raspy.

    So...that puts me in the market for some vintage Miss Dior. Right!?

    ((insert justification here))
    Absolutely. No justification needed.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Just for purposes of clarity for anyone reading this thread 10 years from now:

    If I know anything at all about Grayspoole, I'll bet that N.Cal's sample of Diorella from her did not come from a bottle like the one in N.Cal's photo. I'm pretty sure she's houndstooth-era all the way, like this:




    Correct me if I'm wrong, Grayspoole.
    My generic bottle image came from Fragrantica, so it may not be accurate anyways.
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  10. #280
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I will be doing a live sampling with Dioressence EDT right now if any curious minds are interested

    Dioressence EDT

    Spritzing some on my arm now, this is a departure from Diorella of where it has those strong fruity opening lemon/citrus, bergamot, and peach notes. I do get some bergamot and citrus but I'm met with the presence of patchouli that darkens the opening some. Then there's some aldehydes. Not bad so far. I'll see how this progresses.

    Update:

    So now some of the florals have made their appearance. Of the ones that I can identify, there's a bit carnation, rose, and geranium. The patchouli continues to hold it's ground although it has settled in the background.
    Last edited by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer; 16th June 2019 at 08:16 PM.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I think you could definitely wear vintage Diorella, N.Cal. I am astounded that vintage Diorella may be winning out over a rare Creed for you.
    Honestly, it's so much nicer overall. Once it settles to the drydown it's like heaven for me. The smooth oakmoss with the florals and what is left of the green notes in the background, what is not to like?

    Aubepine Acacia feels less smooth, somewhat disjointed, and also lacks the chypre feel that I find in Diorella as well as No 19 and Sous Le Vent.
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  12. #282
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Great comparisons of the Dioramas, Cook.bot. Did you have any thoughts on the Diorama-Mitsouko question? Or the Diorama-vintage non-cuminy Femme question? If memory serves, you like vintage Femme but you don't like Mitsouko. Is Diorama your favorite of the three?

    If I had to choose, in some hypothetical alternate world, I think I would have to pick vintage Mitsouko. Which is very strange since I didn't like Mitsouko at all at first, and I liked Femme and Diorama immediately.

    Anyone else want to play? Three vintage bottles..in your preferred vintage formulation...Mitsouko, Diorama, and Femme. Which would you choose?
    Is one the of questions whether vintage Diorama is like a non-cuminy Rochas Femme? If so, the answer is yes. There may be other differences in the openings. Diorama and Rochas Femme smell similar to each other in the base, to my nose.

    Mitsouko smells fairly different to me. It's my favorite style - an oak moss bomb - so Mitsouko is more of a favorite. Diorama is more of a fragrance to expand my horizons.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    So...that puts me in the market for some vintage Miss Dior. Right!?

    ((insert justification here))
    Correct. It's easy to find. Any concentration is fine. If it says Miss Dior, and you see houndstooth, you're good. Or the parfum. It looks vintage-y, but there's usually not houndstooth.

    I just got some of Cook.bot's 70's Diorama edt, a little earlier than the version of Diorama edt from the original post.

    It is impeccable. It smells like the vision of Diorama realized - warm, flowery fruit.
    Last edited by Bavard; 17th June 2019 at 02:32 AM.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I'm trying the 1980s Diorling edt. It's relatively forgettable. It's nice. It's light and savory. It's something light, and musky, and green. Harmless.

    Diorling is feeling almost too light for my tastes. It's a musky, green skin scent within a few minutes. It's nice, but light. It's sort of synthetic smelling - an almost-soapy woody musk, but warm and even sexy and /or addictive. I do like it, so I'll give it a thumbs up, but it's one of the least interesting in this series, for my tastes.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm trying the 1980s Diorling edt. It's relatively forgettable. It's nice. It's light and savory. It's something light, and musky, and green. Harmless.

    Diorling is feeling almost too light for my tastes. It's a musky, green skin scent within a few minutes. It's nice, but light. It's sort of synthetic smelling - an almost-soapy woody musk, but warm and even sexy and /or addictive. I do like it, so I'll give it a thumbs up, but it's one of the least interesting in this series, for my tastes.
    Agreed. It's the least distinctive of the Roudnitska Diors. And it's supposed to be a leather. Leather? Où est le cuir? I'd like to try a different bottle of it to see if it's any more substantial.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    It’s interesting to think of Diorling as a green leather. It does have some nice, warm animalic, I think castoreum.

    What I don’t like is the evergreen/conifer/car air freshener vibe. This has a touch of that. It also has some men’s shaving cream and/or deodorant. It leans masculine.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Frankly I see virtually no relation between the three of them [Diorama-Mitsouko-Femme], All three may have fruit accords, but the fruits are all very different. All three wear completely differently in terms of weight and texture. And Diorama is by a very long distance my favorite of the three. Without any hesitation the hierarchy for me goes:

    Diorama > Femme > Mitsouko

    And now I'm dying to know if you found my Diorama sample lacking the animalic quality that I sensed in yours.
    Very interesting! You are making me rethink my overly broad comparison, since these three perfumes are certainly very different. The fruit note (Prunol/aldehyde C-14/whatever) is the connecting link for me. Turin and Sanchez said this about the newest version of Diorama:

    The present Diorama bears no relation to the stupendous 1949 original, a sunny orange peel version of Mitsouko, and is instead related to Diorella and Le Parfum de Therese, only less good.

    And I have been trying to parse that description for a long time now. At first, I thought vintage Diorama was entirely different from vintage Diorella, but now I am beginning to see their connections, Diorama definitely much greener than either either Mitsouko or Femme, and the peach in it has some of Diorella's melon. Cook.bot, I am now wearing your Diorama EDT on one elbow, my Diorama EDT on the other, and a bit of my Diorama parfum on my wrist. I think your Diorama EDT brings out the connection to Diorella more than mine does--it's tarter and fresher, and mine is muskier, and resembles the Diorama parfum a little more closely. In another crude generalization, I'm going to say Diorama is like a cross between Diorella and Mitsouko, and here's my ranking. Diorella and Mitsouko > Diorama and Femme. In reality, I love and wear all four.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I'll bet that N.Cal's sample of Diorella from [Grayspoole] did not come from a bottle like the one in N.Cal's photo. I'm pretty sure she's houndstooth-era all the way...Correct me if I'm wrong, Grayspoole.
    You are absolutely right! And no "e" sign, either. The Diorella bottle in N. Cal's post is the next version of the packaging, followed by the Les Creations bottle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Is one the of questions whether vintage Diorama is like a non-cuminy Rochas Femme? If so, the answer is yes. There may be other differences in the openings. Diorama and Rochas Femme smell similar to each other in the base, to my nose.

    Mitsouko smells fairly different to me. It's my favorite style - an oak moss bomb - so Mitsouko is more of a favorite. Diorama is more of a fragrance to expand my horizons.
    Yes, Bavard, I was seeking comparisons between vintage Diorama and vintage Femme. Are you comparing the sample of Diorama to the sample of the vintage Femme PDT that I sent you when you find connections in the bases? So Mitsouko is on top for you. What is it in Diorama that is expanding your horizons?

    Meanwhile, I'm going to sacrifice any credibility that I may have by saying that I don't perceive vintage Mitsouko as very oakmossy. There's so much else going on, that the oakmoss barely registers with me. Or perhaps oakmoss is so common in the vintages I wear, that I don't notice it anymore.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Yes, Bavard, I was seeking comparisons between vintage Diorama and vintage Femme. Are you comparing the sample of Diorama to the sample of the vintage Femme PDT that I sent you when you find connections in the bases?
    Yes, the vintage Rochas Femme pdt you sent is the only version I know.

    There are now four versions of vintage Diorama I've tried from this thread, and other than the older, metal bottle, they smell similar to me.

    To me, any of the three, intact vintage Diorama samples has a mid and base that smells similar to mid and base of Femme. I think the similarity is too strong not to recognize if someone is looking for it.

    What those writers may have meant, or actually smelled, is a question. Vintage Diorama circa 1980 does smell like Le Parfum de Therese, to me, but probably a better version (I like both). It's outside of what I normally wear with its big, gamy fruit notes.

    With Mitsouko, I smell aldehydes for a short while, and then oak moss. It's a stunner.

    Diorella and Diorama do smell related to me, like Miss Dior and Dioressence.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    To me, any of the three, intact vintage Diorama samples has a mid and base that smells similar to mid and base of Femme. I think the similarity is too strong not to recognize if someone is looking for it.
    I guess I need to re-try Femme, 'cause I'm just not feeling it. Maybe my bottle is wonky.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I'm on the final sample from the newer set from Grayspoole and Cook.bot: 1980s Christian Dior Eau Fraiche. It is a nicely balanced fresh fragrance. It's hard not to like.

    It smells like something that could be released today. I'm not getting a banned ingredients smell. Some fragrances I love are coming to mind as I wear this: the new Chanel Pour Monsieur edp, Villoresi Uomo, Eau Sauvage, Eau de Patou. It's another masculine from Dior marketed as a feminine.

    It's also on the lighter side, and just a touch synthetic, an "Eau" or "Cologne" type with something slightly heavier on top.

    It's another of the less interesting ones. It's nice. It smells like a bunch of other things, but it smells accomplished. It does have a light touch of Vicks vapor rub that's not ideal.

    Fragrances sampled in this thread:

    1. Miss Dior (three concentrations)
    2. Diorama edt (four versions)
    3. Diorella edt
    4. Dior-Dior parfum
    5. Diorissimo parfum
    6. Eau Fraiche edc
    7. Diorling edt
    8. Dioressence (current version at the shop)

    A bunch of good ones. Some more full bottles could be fun.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    Happy (belated) Birthday, Bavard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I keep missing people’s birthdays in the SOTD thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I only know the post-‘89 formula of Rochas Femme. I really liked it, with its stewed peaches and plums, except for the cumin note which I discovered would be amplified tenfold in the dry (not humid) heat.
    Thank you! You're not late. I don't mind cumin. Rochas Femme is definitely in the style of these old Dior's. I like the house base / finishing touches in the Dior's.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Happy Birthday, Bavard!

    I'm in your camp, I do feel like there's a similarity between Femme and Diorama. I also think of Mitsouko as the mother of these two and others in the genre. As I think of Coty Chypre as the grandmother of all chypres, I can see a genealogical line there as well, though Chypre was rather undecorated; more a bare-bones chypre. My preference of the fruity chypres we're talking about would be 1. Diorama 2. Femme 3. Mitsouko (nope, Mitsy is not one of "my" Guerlains. It was the Guerlain of a great-aunt, which is probably why it's not mine). For me, Diorama is the easiest to wear; the most relaxed and natural-feeling. I do really like Femme too, and have great respect for Mitsouko.

    Poor Diorling, I'll have some love for it (and Eau Fraiche too!) when I come back to post on that. I do find it to be a proper dry, leather chypre but then, my tolerance for the so-called butch leathers is admittedly pretty low. Diorling is a Just Right leather for me.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Happy birthday Bavard!
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    On to Eau Fraiche today- sunny, dirty oranges! I love citrus and traditional EdC style and this one is top-notch. I detect rosewood, one of my favorite but not-so-often used notes. Here, as in most cases, I find it provides a rounded smoothness against more angular notes. More of that tension I like so much. The patchouli here is earthy, really close to filthy, though not hippie-ish. Très French. Still very elegant, if one of the more sporty Diors. The citruses (orange and lemon mainly, to my nose) are in outstanding shape in this vintage sample.

    I think it's really cool that Dior marketed this to women in 1953! It's so good; simplicity executed to perfection. I don't see how any obsessive, diehard EdC fan wouldn't put this on their list of all-time greats and I have adjusted my thinking accordingly. For my tastes, it's right up there with Guerlain's Eaux, Eau d'Orange Verte and Chanel's EdC. Eau Fraiche belongs in the traditional Eaux Hall of Fame.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    I do find it to be a proper dry, leather chypre but then, my tolerance for the so-called butch leathers is admittedly pretty low. Diorling is a Just Right leather for me.
    I can see this. I wore Diorling for a second time, and it was nice. My mood when I sample it is for something bigger and/or more exciting, like Diorissimo, but it's a subtle, well-behaved fragrance.

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    On to Eau Fraiche today - For my tastes, it's right up there with Guerlain's Eaux, Eau d'Orange Verte and Chanel's EdC. Eau Fraiche belongs in the traditional Eaux Hall of Fame.
    It's hard not to like. What is it missing that would make it smell even more traditional? Neroli?

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    Happy Birthday, Bavard!
    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    Happy birthday Bavard!
    Thank you!

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    It's hard not to like. What is it missing that would make it smell even more traditional? Neroli?
    Bingo! Also possibly lime and citrusy-scented herbs like lemon verbena. An Imperiale fan might especially miss and long for those last two. But neroli is the big one. I did note the lack of it in Eau Fraiche but in this case, I didn't feel its absence left a hole. Just made for a slightly different but enjoyable take on the idea.

    Diorissimo is indeed a truly exciting scent! Nothing else quite like it!

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    I only know the post-‘89 formula of Rochas Femme. I really liked it, with its stewed peaches and plums, except for the cumin note which I discovered would be amplified tenfold in the dry (not humid) heat.
    I don't think I would mind the cumin note getting loud in dry heat. It sounds like an interesting effect.

  28. #298
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Excellent comments on Eau Fraiche, Perfumed Lady and Bavard. The vintage marketing is indeed very interesting. I love the insouciance of the woman with her wet hair in towel (but please note the full maquillage and manicure):

    IMG_3154.JPG

    Eau Fraiche promotes an almost modern concept of "freshness" and wellness (this better "way of being" called freshness/ce "mieux-etre" nomme fraicheur). This next ad seems to be recommending application of Eau Fraiche to the armpit, while also celebrating Freshness as an "invisible pleasure."

    IMG_3156.JPG

    Tl; DR: Clean is good.
    Currently wearing: Joy by Jean Patou

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    Poor Diorling, I'll have some love for it (and Eau Fraiche too!) when I come back to post on that. I do find it to be a proper dry, leather chypre but then, my tolerance for the so-called butch leathers is admittedly pretty low. Diorling is a Just Right leather for me.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I can see this. I wore Diorling for a second time, and it was nice. My mood when I sample it is for something bigger and/or more exciting, like Diorissimo, but it's a subtle, well-behaved fragrance.
    Poor Diorling...I called it a "tamed Bandit" upthread, but vintage leather chypres are my jam, and I may be revising my opinion. I wore it yesterday in the vintage parfum formulation, from one of these 1/8 oz bottles (borrowed photo) and it was very enjoyable.

    IMG_3157.jpg

    Bavard...our perceptions of vintage Diorissimo are SO different. I don't find it big or exciting, but I do like it. I find Diorissimo a little buttoned up and starched. I wear it when I want to project being well behaved.
    Currently wearing: Joy by Jean Patou

  30. #300
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Purecaramel's review on Diorling:

    Leather Chypre. A Dior answer to Cabochard. I expect that my sample is Vintage as a Bitter Hyacinth and Oakmoss start, softens and billows. Severity moves to the background and reveals a beautiful, slightly green Rose. The edge of LOV slices through a vegetal and ever so slight,doughy Iris. LOV is shown similar to that of Lauder for Men. In fact, throw in a little Juniper, Clary Sage and it would turn to the Masculine from that of Unisex.
    Beautiful scent!
    I know I'm a bit of a Heathen here, however, I would wear this ahead of the more popular, genderless Diorella.


    It's the equal of his Dior-Dior review, although that one made me laugh more, the part when the muguet returns as a pulse after the jasmine narcotics his brain cells. I love that jasmine.




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