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  1. #301
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Bavard...our perceptions of vintage Diorissimo are SO different. I don't find it big or exciting, but I do like it. I find Diorissimo a little buttoned up and starched. I wear it when I want to project being well behaved.
    I imagine it achieving that effect for you. Is it something more floral, and being well behaved means embracing flowers?

    I imagine people being shocked if I were to wear it to the office. To me, it smells like several hanging baskets of flowers in full bloom.

  2. #302

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Beautiful ads, grayspoole! Love that manicure. It's funny, these days I think the younger generations would find Eau Fraiche startlingly not fresh. For me though, it's freshness with enough of a twist to stand out among its crowd.

    I can agree with "tamed Bandit"! Diorling's leather is nowhere near as tough or pronounced as Bandit. Bandit is top dog in that regard. Diorling is definitely in that family but much softer, more floral. I can also see purecaramel's Cabochard comparison. I'd say that one is in between Bandit and Diorling, with Diorling the most traditionally feminine of the bunch. Chanel's Cuir de Russie is less similar but also in the same vegetal ballpark. I've worn Cabochard and enjoyed it, though it was never a perfect fit. Bandit (like Mitsouko) is one I admire but is not me at all. Just never liked the Chanel. Diorling is utterly perfect for my nose. I've worn it several times since these arrived and looking forward to it again tomorrow!

  3. #303
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Bavard...our perceptions of vintage Diorissimo are SO different. I don't find it big or exciting, but I do like it. I find Diorissimo a little buttoned up and starched. I wear it when I want to project being well behaved.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I imagine it achieving that effect for you. Is it something more floral, and being well behaved means embracing flowers?

    I imagine people being shocked if I were to wear it to the office. To me, it smells like several hanging baskets of flowers in full bloom.
    I was wondering if gendered perfume stereotypes could explain our different perceptions, but I was hesitant to venture on this very fluid terrain. I think for me, a cisgender woman, wearing a slightly indolic white floral is to be expected, and Diorissimo seems ladylike and appropriate. For you, Diorissimo is adventurous. It's all good, however.

  4. #304
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Poor Diorling...I called it a "tamed Bandit" upthread, but vintage leather chypres are my jam, and I may be revising my opinion. I wore it yesterday in the vintage parfum formulation, from one of these 1/8 oz bottles (borrowed photo) and it was very enjoyable.

    Attachment 104312
    I'm on my third wearing of Diorling. It is definitely agreeable. It plays a mind trick on me. I keep thinking that it's really not that interesting, yet I keep wanting to wear it. I think I just want to make triply sure I'm not missing something while we're on the subject.

    I can smell it both ways: as ou est le cuir? (what leather?) or as a just right leather. In the latter case, it's a much more rounded (less sharp), more leathery, much less powdery version of Chanel No. 19.

    I'm so excited PerfumedLady is into Dior. The world makes sense to me when people like Guerlain, Chanel, and Dior.
    Last edited by Bavard; 18th June 2019 at 10:20 PM.

  5. #305
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm on my third wearing of Diorling. It is definitely agreeable. It plays a mind trick on me. I keep thinking that it's really not that interesting, yet I keep wanting to wear it. I think I just want to maker triply sure I'm not missing something while we're on the subject.

    I can smell it both ways: as ou est le cuir? (what leather?) or as a just right leather. In the latter case, it's a much more rounded (less sharp), more leathery, much less powdery version of Chanel No. 19.
    Y'all are making me think I've been unfair to Diorling. I'm going to wear it today with a more open mind, and banishing all thoughts of the kind of big, boisterous leather that I usually like.

    I'm so excited PerfumedLady is into Dior. The world makes sense to me when people like Guerlain, Chanel, and Dior.
    But didn't you always know she would be, if she just got enough proper exposure to them?

    I'd been intending to send her a starter kit for over a year, and I'm kicking myself for having waited so long. I mean, what if one of us had died in the interim?!?

    Incidental factoid: Epapsiou thought the neck ribbon on his Diorling bottle had become discolored, but looking at lots of vintage photos seems to confirm that this was the only Dior that didn't get a black or white ribbon; the Diorlings appear to all have ivory/beige ribbons.

    Diorling_16oz_Harmeet.1a.jpg

    As for the missing patch of houndstooth on the cap, I don't know if that was intentional or just a flaw, but I've seen it occur on several Dior bottles from the 1970-80 era.

  6. #306

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Lol! The important thing is that we didn't die, Cook.bot! That's all that matters. That, and Dior. I'm also cracking up because my intention was to try to smell Diorling through your nose next time. I'll be trying for the where is the leather aspect!

    That cap had been gnawing at me! I thought at first, a perfume smudge that ate away the black houndstooth. Looking closer, that seems unlikely given the lack of smearing. Would love to know what that's about!

    Oh my goodness, am I into Dior! I can't believe I liked all of them! And Diorling- I thought if I was going to straight up dislike any, this would be the one. But nope, it's a favorite! What can I say; when you folks are right, you're right. Bavard is onto something, anyone who likes classic houses with distinctive personalities would surely have room for some Dior and these are certainly worthy peers of Chanel and Guerlain. These three houses make a Bermuda Triangle of rabbit-hole vintage perfumery and I hope I'm never rescued!

  7. #307
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I just did a quick calculation and realized that the eight perfumes we've been discussing here, plus the masculine Eau Sauvage, constituted the entire* fragrance output of the House of Dior for the 33 years between 1947 and 1980.

    Miss Dior -- 1947
    Diorama -- 1949
    Eau Fraîche -- 1953
    Diorissimo -- 1956
    Diorling -- 1963
    Eau Sauvage -- 1966
    Dioressence -- 1969
    Diorella -- 1972
    Dior Dior -- 1976

    And 7 of those 9 scents were created by Roudnitska.

    Contrast that with Dior's output since then: in the 38 years from 1985 to 2019 the house has released 143 fragrances. That's almost one every 3 months. And we wonder about the diminishing quality from the great designer houses?

    ++++++++++++++

    *There was apparently a very short-lived scent called "Forbidden Fruit" released in 1951, about which I can find absolutely zero information online. It is listed in the BN directory (but not in Fragrantica's), and there is one BN member who claimed in 2014 to have bought a bottle of it, but she never followed up with any further information. Which is a shame, since with a name like that, you'd have to expect Roudnitska's hand on the tiller.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/392...Christian-Dior

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Diorama EDT

    The opening came off as fruity something that I've come to take note of in Dioressence and Diorella. A bit jammy feel to it that smelled like peach. Things started to take a turn as I began picking up what would be a strong cumin note. There's no cumin note listed is there? Perhaps it's a collaboration between some of the florals and spices present in the mid that contributes to this accord? In either case it doesn't quite sit well on my skin. In time thankfully this accord settled down with animalic notes emerging , I think I'm smelling the castoreum and civet. At the base I do get a nice oakmoss supported the animalic notes. While it was bold early on, it settles down to something soft and comforting. I'll probably wear it again before I draw any conclusions on Diorama.
    Last edited by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer; 19th June 2019 at 07:33 AM.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I will be doing another live sampling, this time with Diorama if anyone is interested.
    Is there a video feed for the event? Apologies if I just missed the link.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Is there a video feed for the event? Apologies if I just missed the link.
    Nope I don't do Youtube.
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  11. #311
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Diorama EDT. The opening came off as fruity something that I've come to take note of in Dioressence and Diorella. A bit jammy feel to it that smelled like peach. Things started to take a turn as I began picking up what would be a strong cumin note. There's no cumin note listed is there? Perhaps it's a collaboration between some of the florals and spices present in the mid that contributes to this accord? In either case it doesn't quite sit well on my skin. In time thankfully this accord settled down with animalic notes emerging , I think I'm smelling the castoreum and civet. At the base I do get a nice oakmoss supported the animalic notes. While it was bold early on, it settles down to something soft and comforting. I'll probably wear it again before I draw any conclusions on Diorama.
    Welcome to the Club of Vintage Diorama Huffers, N.Cal! It sounds like you found the experience interesting enough.

    And now for the very monumental cumin question (to us, only to us). Personally, I do not perceive the presence of cumin in vintage Diorama, but perhaps it is there. Diorama IS somewhat spicy and aromatic to me, especially when compared with Femme. I tested Diorama once while sniffing jars in my spice drawer, and I settled on cinnamon and cardamon. I also feel there's a natural kind of patchouli in there as well (not the modern fruitchouli patchouli stuff) which smells a bit like cumin to me. I should add that I don't mind cumin notes in perfumes.

    The current version of Diorama as reorchestrated by Demachy is advertised on the Dior website as containing "Essence of Egyptian Cumin, which they describe as "warm, spicy, slightly animal, and anise-like." (I must say is that I have never thought that cumin smelled like anise in my life, but whatever, Dior copywriter.)

    I've never sniffed the modern version of Diorama, but I've always thought it was an odd move to add or amp up cumin in its reformulation, just as was done with the reformulation of Femme. I'm now wondering if the references to "cumin" in the notes for these reformulations is a shorthand for an aromachemical that is being substituted for nitromusks or oakmoss or eugenol, perhaps something like caramel furanone, that has a cumin undertone, but I am just spitballing here.

  12. #312
    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I just did a quick calculation and realized that the eight perfumes we've been discussing here, plus the masculine Eau Sauvage, constituted the entire* fragrance output of the House of Dior for the 33 years between 1947 and 1980....

    Contrast that with Dior's output since then: in the 38 years from 1985 to 2019 the house has released 143 fragrances. That's almost one every 3 months. And we wonder about the diminishing quality from the great designer houses?
    Very sobering...

    *There was apparently a very short-lived scent called "Forbidden Fruit" released in 1951, about which I can find absolutely zero information online. It is listed in the BN directory (but not in Fragrantica's), and there is one BN member who claimed in 2014 to have bought a bottle of it, but she never followed up
    Very intriguing...I can't find anything about this mysterious perfume either.

    While we're at it, it looks as though Eau Fraiche was distributed in the US as Fleurs Fraiches, in the same wicker packaging...

    IMG_3158.JPG
    Last edited by grayspoole; 19th June 2019 at 04:20 PM.

  13. #313

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I knew N.Cal would like all this oakmoss!

    The slower output of early Dior doesn't surprise me but it is indeed sobering to see the list. What better argument for quality over quantity could there be than these classic Diors? While I do still find new things I enjoy (though less often now), I do think perfumery is currently in the sorriest state it's been in my approx. 30 years of collecting. Fortunately, there are just enough bright spots to keep me somewhat interested in perfume current events. Not nearly to the extent I once was, though.

    Remembering the talk of sticking to the positive upthread- Diorling! Wearing it now and revisiting it after all these other beauties, yes, I still find this one is something to get excited about. Cook.bot, I have failed. It's leather to me right from the opening. Do note that this is usually a challenging a category for me. I wear leathers but I tend toward the modern floral suedes (I like your BV! Glad you sent a lot; this will be great in our autumnal weather). The closest thing to old school badass leather I have in my collection is the re-issued Cuir de Lancome, which is as much about iris, saffron and amber as it is leather. In other words, not close at all. The greener, more realistic leathers with chypre backbone are among my fragrant challenges. Galbanum + leather is just difficult for my nose, in spite of liking the smell of both. What I am trying to say is, pay no attention to me! What satisfies me will most definitely not satisfy a true leather aficionado. I'm the same way with tuberose.

    I've always wanted a REAL leather though, and Diorling is enough of one for me. The hyacinth note is no doubt making it easier for me, I love this note. The iris probably doesn't hurt, either; as good as that of any vintage No.19 I've smelled, if more blended. I really think it's this iris that sucks me in most of all, wafting up to the nose just when I've forgotten it. This one makes me wish I could smell my own scent trail, it must be gorgeous!

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I will be doing another live sampling this time with Miss Dior later this evening.

    The notes looks very promising, I'm looking forward to it.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Nope I don't do Youtube.
    Hmm. Facebook Live, just for followers?

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    SOTE: Iquitos by Alain Delon
    Tee hee. Wrong thread, Hednic!

  17. #317

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Tee hee. Wrong thread, Hednic!
    Just popping in to direct traffic!

  18. #318
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Miss Dior Parfum

    This fragrance closely resembles a fragrance that I've smelled sometime ago called Woto by a brand Deviline. This was a release that Cytherian had mentioned previously and I had the privilege of getting a rare sample of. Great stuff Woto was. Back to Miss Dior, the opening consisted of bergamot for a brighter opening along with strong galbanum notes with some aldehydes blended in. Some of the florals emerged in the mid notes. The strongest of the notes for me was the powdery iris and orris notes. The drydown consisted of oakmoss with the infusion of a gentle powdery amber accord. A little bit of labdanum, a little bit of leather, and a little bit of musk could be detected. Very comforting and sensual.

    As for the EDT it's a bit more brighter, transparent, and refreshing. At the base it develops into a nice mossy feel with a warm ambery accord. I will go as far to say that this is very similar to Rogue Perfumery Chypre-Siam. It's very addicting to smell.

    Even though I haven't written all of my impressions for all five Diors that I've tried, this would be my favorite out from the bunch by far.

    For a comparison take a look at Woto's composition:

    Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, green accord, galbanum
    Middle notes: geranium, lavender, myrrh, orris, opoponax, clary sage, labdanum
    Base notes: amber, oakmoss, resins, vetiver, sandalwood, cedar, civet, balsams, tonka bean, leather, musk (Iso E Super)

    Fragrantica: https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/...-Dior-223.html
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  19. #319
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I don't get anything like amber or anything sweet from Miss Dior, just aldehydes, moss, and powdery patchouli.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    I knew N.Cal would like all this oakmoss!
    It's one of my favorite notes along with sandalwood, iris, and vanilla.

    Update: Dior did reasonably well on me. I still have to provide my verdict on all five Diors though.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I don't get anything like amber or anything sweet from Miss Dior, just aldehydes, moss, and powdery patchouli.
    Different skin chemistry? On me there was a nice comforting amber along with the other notes in both concentrations.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Fragrances sampled in this thread:

    1. Miss Dior (three concentrations)
    2. Diorama edt (four versions)
    3. Diorella edt
    4. Dior-Dior parfum
    5. Diorissimo parfum
    6. Eau Fraiche edc
    7. Diorling edt
    8. Dioressence (current version at the shop)

    A bunch of good ones. Some more full bottles could be fun.
    Since I'm on a roll in Dior Land, I wouldn't mind wanting to smell some of the others that were featured here.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Welcome to the Club of Vintage Diorama Huffers, N.Cal! It sounds like you found the experience interesting enough.

    And now for the very monumental cumin question (to us, only to us). Personally, I do not perceive the presence of cumin in vintage Diorama, but perhaps it is there. Diorama IS somewhat spicy and aromatic to me, especially when compared with Femme. I tested Diorama once while sniffing jars in my spice drawer, and I settled on cinnamon and cardamon. I also feel there's a natural kind of patchouli in there as well (not the modern fruitchouli patchouli stuff) which smells a bit like cumin to me. I should add that I don't mind cumin notes in perfumes.

    The current version of Diorama as reorchestrated by Demachy is advertised on the Dior website as containing "Essence of Egyptian Cumin, which they describe as "warm, spicy, slightly animal, and anise-like." (I must say is that I have never thought that cumin smelled like anise in my life, but whatever, Dior copywriter.)

    I've never sniffed the modern version of Diorama, but I've always thought it was an odd move to add or amp up cumin in its reformulation, just as was done with the reformulation of Femme. I'm now wondering if the references to "cumin" in the notes for these reformulations is a shorthand for an aromachemical that is being substituted for nitromusks or oakmoss or eugenol, perhaps something like caramel furanone, that has a cumin undertone, but I am just spitballing here.
    I'm thinking it was a combination of notes that when conjugated created this cumin aroma. There's definitely a few spice notes listed: cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and caraway. I'd wish that I could understand better what exact notes could create this accord.

    Cumin is extremely difficult for me to wear, it's polarizing to my nose. It was fortunate that the cumin note only lasted a short while before I faded in the background. Nonetheless I have to get pass that unpleasing stage before i get to the drydown which is much more enjoyable.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Diorissimo EDC

    Although green like the others, it's a departure from the chypre concentrated styled scents that I've grown accustomed to in this batch of Diors. Diorissimo is a prominent floral from start to finish. The opening I got a strong lily of the valley note with a slight herbaly green feel. It reminds me of being in a garden with the aroma of florals in the midst and perhaps the smell of green plants in the premise. There were a bunch of other floral notes listed but I couldn't detect them all. Once the LOTV settled down I picked out the jasmine. Eventually all of the florals softened allowing for a subtle sandalwood drydown to emerge. This is a good LOTV scent, although it's not a note that I personally would want to wear. A nice composition overall and more importantly a good learning experience.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Excellent write-up of Diorissimo, N.Cal! I know this one is not really your style but you nailed it, anyway! Great work!

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    So I bought a 5 ml decant of some vintage Diorella just because. I look forward to really drenching myself in this one day and writing up a full review.

    Bottle looks like this...



    QUESTION: So Dior released Diorella only in EdT and Parfum?
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    QUESTION: So Dior released Diorella only in EdT and Parfum?
    Yes, as far as I know.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    QUESTION: So Dior released Diorella only in EdT and Parfum?
    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Yes, as far as I know.
    Come to think of it, I've never seen any of the vintage Diors discussed here in EDP or PDT format. Have you, Grayspoole?

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I plan to do my last live sampling of Dior - Diorissimo Extrait later today.
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  30. #330
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Come to think of it, I've never seen any of the vintage Diors discussed here in EDP or PDT format. Have you, Grayspoole?
    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Yes, as far as I know.
    Have either of you tried the parfum concentration and if so what do you think of it? I really enjoyed the EDT concentration.
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