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  1. #331
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Have either of you tried the parfum concentration and if so what do you think of it? I really enjoyed the EDT concentration.
    If you mean the parfum of Diorissimo, yes, I have. But I'm not the person to ask, since it's the only vintage Dior I don't like, purely because I can't abide LOTV.

    If you mean the parfum of Diorella, no, I haven't. I seem to recall that Grayspoole has, though.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I've got Diorella parfum, but have not tried the EDT.

    I have a bit of Dioressence esprit de parfum and Poison EDP as well. The Dioressence is not in the greatest shape, but it doesn't seem that different from the EDT (1979 version). As for Poison, I have only experienced the EDP, and thus can't speak to how it compares with the other concentrations.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by RoRo View Post
    I've got Diorella parfum, but have not tried the EDT.

    I have a bit of Dioressence esprit de parfum and Poison EDP as well. The Dioressence is not in the greatest shape, but it doesn't seem that different from the EDT (1979 version). As for Poison, I have only experienced the EDP, and thus can't speak to how it compares with the other concentrations.
    Do you consider Diorella parfum to be aromatic?
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    If you mean the parfum of Diorissimo, yes, I have. But I'm not the person to ask, since it's the only vintage Dior I don't like, purely because I can't abide LOTV.

    If you mean the parfum of Diorella, no, I haven't. I seem to recall that Grayspoole has, though.

    LOTV is a note that I can't pull off but I can still respect Diorissimo for what it is. As for the Diorissimo extrait, I found it be almost exactly the same as the vintage EDC that I smelled previously. The performance was a bit stronger though. Heavily LOTV based as expected.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Do you consider Diorella parfum to be aromatic?
    To be honest, I don't know what that means. That is, I don't have a grasp of what it is that makes a fragrance an aromatic.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Come to think of it, I've never seen any of the vintage Diors discussed here in EDP or PDT format. Have you, Grayspoole?
    I don't believe any of the vintage Diors were issued in the PDT or EDP formulation, except for Dioressence. There was a PDT in its first aqua blue packaging, which became the Esprit de Parfum in the lapis blue packaging that RoRo describes above. I don't have either of these, just the vintage EDT and parfum and the perfume oil or bath essence.

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Have either of you tried the parfum concentration and if so what do you think of it? I really enjoyed the EDT concentration.
    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Do you consider Diorella parfum to be aromatic?
    Vintage Diorella parfum is rare, but I managed to get my hands on a partial bottle. It's a beautiful parfum, but it is not substantially different from the vintage EDT. I may actually prefer the radiance of the Diorella EDT, which lasts just as long as the parfum. (I usually wear no more than three good sprays of the EDT--vintage Diorella is potent stuff.)

    I would say that vintage Diorella is equally "aromatic" in either formulation, and by this I mean strongly herbal and hesperidic. The parfum has a softer sillage than the EDT, so one could say it is actually less aromatic than the EDT, but in a different sense.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I don't believe any of the vintage Diors were issued in the PDT or EDP formulation, except for Dioressence. There was a PDT in its first aqua blue packaging, which became the Esprit de Parfum in the lapis blue packaging that RoRo describes above. I don't have either of these, just the vintage EDT and parfum and the perfume oil or bath essence.
    I have actually seen Miss Dior and Diorissimo in Esprit de Parfum concentration. So that would make four that I know of: Diorissimo, Miss Dior, Dioressence, Poison.
    Since it seems no one has run across Diorella in EDP, I'm guessing those might have been the only four. This is just a hunch, but I doubt anything else sold in the sort of quantities that would justify the creation of an EDP. Not in that period (mid- to late-'80s).
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    RoRo-

    I agree, there are more EDP and Esprit de Parfum formulations more recently. I was thinking about the original issues. Perhaps these are all from the 1980's or so? Not sure. I usually try to get no "e sign" bottles in the houndstooth packaging, so I am not familiar with these versions. The recent Diorissimo extrait is definitely good, though.

    Going to post some photos of these 80's or 90's? EDP's. If you have any of these, let us know what you think of them.

    Attachment 104631

    And here's Neil Chapman discussing this version:
    https://theblacknarcissus.com/2014/0...rit-de-parfum/

    Attachment 104632
    Attachment 104634
    Attachment 104635

    ..

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    RoRo-

    I agree, there are more EDP and Esprit de Parfum formulations more recently. I was thinking about the original issues. Perhaps these are all from the 1980's or so? Not sure. I usually try to get no "e sign" bottles in the houndstooth packaging, so I am not familiar with these versions. The recent Diorissimo extrait is definitely good, though.
    Ah, now I see what you mean. No, I think all the esprits de parfum were introduced in the 1980s. Poison *may* have been available in EDP right from the start, but I'm not sure about that.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I'll bet that someone, somewhere, is specializing in collecting only Miss Dior, in all its seemingly infinite variations and bottlings.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I'll bet that someone, somewhere, is specializing in collecting only Miss Dior, in all its seemingly infinite variations and bottlings.
    I'm sure there is. I'm just grateful that my interest ceases once it is no longer recognizable as Miss Dior. Dior seems to reformulate "Miss Dior" every year, just for kicks and giggles. On the other forum, I see folks trying to track down the 2012 version with the caramel popcorn note...or something like that.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I was planning to wear Diorama again today, but then I picked up the bottle of Miss Dior sitting next to it; I had forgotten that my Miss is one of the 'atomiseur' types that we gave such a thrashing to upthread. Then I realized it had been much more than a year since I'd worn it (please don't slap me, Grayspoole), and I went back and read Grayspoole's description of it in this post. That talk of a blast of galbanum and costus (which I love) and the leathery, musky drydown inspired me to spray myself thoroughly with Miss Dior and just see where it takes me today.

    Mixed in with that dark green botanical mid-phase I'm sensing a touch of warm spice, maybe just a waft of nutmeg, or mace -- one of the woodier spices, anyway. Now I'll just wait for that nitromusk drydown.

    First thought: I really need to wear this more often. I've neglected the Miss in favor of the fruity/green Roudnitska Diors that I prefer, but this deserves a more prominent spot in the lineup. Second thought: my atomiseur is in fine condition, emitting perfectly measured sprays with no dribbling, and the perfume itself is pristinely preserved. Thank heavens for that. And just for RoRo -- it's 112mls!

    Attachment 104644

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post

    Vintage Diorella parfum is rare, but I managed to get my hands on a partial bottle. It's a beautiful parfum, but it is not substantially different from the vintage EDT. I may actually prefer the radiance of the Diorella EDT, which lasts just as long as the parfum. (I usually wear no more than three good sprays of the EDT--vintage Diorella is potent stuff.)

    I would say that vintage Diorella is equally "aromatic" in either formulation, and by this I mean strongly herbal and hesperidic. The parfum has a softer sillage than the EDT, so one could say it is actually less aromatic than the EDT, but in a different sense.
    That's quite interesting I wonder if the parfum concentration was discontinued quite early on given it's rarity.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I'm sure there is. I'm just grateful that my interest ceases once it is no longer recognizable as Miss Dior. Dior seems to reformulate "Miss Dior" every year, just for kicks and giggles. On the other forum, I see folks trying to track down the 2012 version with the caramel popcorn note...or something like that.

    At what point would you say Miss Dior was no longer recognizable to the original release?
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Second thought: my atomiseur is in fine condition, emitting perfectly measured sprays with no dribbling, and the perfume itself is pristinely preserved. Thank heavens for that. And just for RoRo -- it's 112mls!
    I'm definitely still on team atomiseur, when they can be had for a price that justifies the risk. I've been pretty lucky with CD atomiseurs so far.

    And while the 112s are nice and all, nothing will ever top 57ml. Oops, I mean cc.


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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I’m trying to get Jules to wear more classic aldehydic florals, so I sprung for some Dior-Dior.

    Attachment 104729

    It's another aerosol, but it's in fine shape. I like this bottle style. I have a weakness for the clear, ribbed glass.

    I think / hope this will be a top five fragrance for her. Right now, she seems to love Miss Dior and Chanel Cuir de Russie the most, although No. 5 isn't far behind.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I’m trying to get Jules this to wear more jasmine, so I sprung for some Dior-Dior.
    Nice! I've been wanting one of those columnar bottles of DD for a long time. Do come back and tell us how it compares to the houndstooth bottle.

    Oh, wait -- do you have any samples of the EDT version of DD? I think originally I sent you only the parfum sample.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Nice! I've been wanting one of those columnar bottles of DD for a long time. Do come back and tell us how it compares to the houndstooth bottle.

    Oh, wait -- do you have any samples of the EDT version of DD? I think originally I sent you only the parfum sample.
    Do you find Dior-Dior edt being much different from the parfum? I know it from the parfum sample. I've sprayed the edt and it's the same fragrance to me, from memory. It smells exactly like I hoped.

    When I wear them side by side I'll make a comparison.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Do you find Dior-Dior edt being much different from the parfum? I know it from the parfum sample. I've sprayed the edt and it's the same fragrance to me, from memory. It smells exactly like I hoped.

    When I wear them side by side I'll make a comparison.
    No, I don't find much difference in the smell itself, just in the texture. The parfum is denser, richer, "thicker". I tend to prefer EDTs over parfums for just that reason, I like sharpness in my scents more than richness.

    Would love to hear a side by side from you.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    At what point would you say Miss Dior was no longer recognizable to the original release?
    No idea...perhaps the 90's? I just go for the old stuff. I'm going to quote the Fragrantica description of Miss Dior (2012)...with selected emphases:

    Sometime during 2012 the house of Dior renamed its already reformulated Miss Dior Cherie perfume line (the original Miss Dior Cherie was launched in 2005, the new version came out 2011, and there are also numerous other editions made on the same theme) as Miss Dior (which does not have any similarity with the original Miss Dior edition from 1947).

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    grayspoole, I bought a 100ml bottle of Miss Dior edt from......La Baie? Ogilvy?....in Montreal in the mid-2000s??.....before the “Originale” name tag, and yes, I can confirm smelling a funny popcorn note in the formula at the time, but there was something else I disliked about it. Miss Dior reminded me of the thick, plastic covers used on furniture, so I guess I may be due for a proper smelling vintage edt in the black and white houndstooth packaging.
    Shemelimelle, it sounds as though you may have tested the Miss-Dior-Cherie-renamed-as-Miss Dior. Popcorn and plastic vanilla-scented dollhead sounds about right...

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by RoRo View Post
    I'm definitely still on team atomiseur, when they can be had for a price that justifies the risk. I've been pretty lucky with CD atomiseurs so far.
    Honestly, I'm not sure anymore myself. After our last discussion, I rooted around in the perfume cabinet and found one of my backup Diorellas, which was, you guessed it, a houndstooth atomiseur 112mls along with a large atomiseur of Le Dix. Opened them up, both smelled fine and sprayed well eithout dribbling. Clearly, I'll buy an atomiseur when the price is right...and then forget I've done so.

    I've had more bad atomiseurs than either splashes or vaporisateurs, so I guess I would say that I still retain a prejudice against them. In the end, with vintages, I think it is all the luck of the draw. If something works for you, stick with it.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Full wearing of Diorella again today. Wow! Amazing juice.

    It smelled so much more 'chypre-ish' today. The peach practically leapt off my skin. Love it. A fun fragrance. Refreshing.

    For some reason, today I got very little melon notes and nothing 'rotten' whereas last time I did. Weird.

    I can't believe I like this one so much, seeing as I really don't like Eau Savage (even vintage). Maybe I should retry Eau Savage again...
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Jules loves the Dior-Dior edt, calls it a perfect 10.

    She finds something similar to Bois des Iles, a church smell, but minus the sweetness (marshmallow) of Bois des Iles (Egoiste also has no marshmallow; I asked).

    She also finds a house connection to Miss Dior.

    She says it's a wood. Cedar, maybe sandalwood.

    Now she's placed it: It's the frankincense they use in Catholic Church - a mix of the oil and the burning frankincense in the gold ball that the priest swings.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    grayspoole, I bought a 100ml bottle of Miss Dior edt from......La Baie? Ogilvy?....in Montreal in the mid-2000s??....
    Quote Originally Posted by Shemelimelle View Post
    if anyone based in the Provence knows what I’m talking about, I do hope can chime in and give me a year approximation, so as to help me date the formula.
    Perhaps you should review the title of this thread. A post-2000 release would be outside the purview of this discussion.

    To get an answer to your question, you might consider posting it in the Female Fragrance Discussion forum.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

    I can't believe I like this one so much, seeing as I really don't like Eau Savage (even vintage). Maybe I should retry Eau Savage again...
    Did you find any differences between the two? I haven't tried the vintage myself.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Jules loves the Dior-Dior edt, calls it a perfect 10.

    She finds something similar to Bois des Iles, a church smell, but minus the sweetness (marshmallow) of Bois des Iles (Egoiste also has no marshmallow; I asked).

    She also finds a house connection to Miss Dior.

    She says it's a wood. Cedar, maybe sandalwood.

    Now she's placed it: It's the frankincense they use in Catholic Church - a mix of the oil and the burning frankincense in the gold ball that the priest swings.
    Does she pick up an ambery vanillin accord at the base? I recalled getting a church like smell from Angelique Encens. Frankincense aroma in the opening before drying down to an ambery vanilla accord at the base.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Did you find any differences between the two? I haven't tried the vintage myself.
    I really shouldn't comment until I am able to source some vintage Eau Savage. But, in my mind, they have only the hedione similarity.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Full wearing of Diorella again today. Wow! Amazing juice. It smelled so much more 'chypre-ish' today. The peach practically leapt off my skin. Love it. A fun fragrance. Refreshing.
    Glad you enjoyed it so much, mikeperez23. Peach leaping off skin sounds nice. My perception of Diorella does vary too, and I think it depends on the weather. I wore it once on a really hot and muggy day and I felt the animalic quality was perhaps too much.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Jules loves the Dior-Dior edt, calls it a perfect 10. Now she's placed it: It's the frankincense they use in Catholic Church - a mix of the oil and the burning frankincense in the gold ball that the priest swings.
    I agree, and I love that slightly tart, smoky church frankincense smell. It's in Givenchy III too, which I know I keep comparing to Dior Dior...

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Does she pick up an ambery vanillin accord at the base? I recalled getting a church like smell from Angelique Encens. Frankincense aroma in the opening before drying down to an ambery vanilla accord at the base.
    Ambery vanillin in Dior Dior? No, I think it stays dry, chyprish, woody throughout. Perhaps you're thinking of Dioressence?

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    Diorling pretty much heads the list for me. I don't understand others' references to Bandit here: there's no cracking galbanum, nothing green or sappy or redolent of rubber/harsh leather. What there is, is the bare bones of Miss Dior draped in the smoothest, butteriest suede accessorised with light florals. Of the classics this one speaks most obviously of Dior luxe, to my nose. I am, it goes without saying, referring to vintage here.

    Dioressence is a perfume that, on paper, I really ought to love (patchouli! ambergris!), but ultimately I find it too powdery in the drydown owing to (I imagine) the styrax. My wallet thanks me for once.

    Eau Fraiche - Good to see this one mentioned. It's most definitely on the same access as Eau Sauvage and Diorella, and is indeed very close the latter in terms of DNA and overall feel. In fact I've read that Roudnitska used it as a starting point for Diorella. It doesn't seem to be very well known so prices might be surprisingly reasonable. Lots of lemon, rendered very juicy thanks to hedione, on the trademark oakmoss base.
    Here are Sam's notes on Diorling from upthread. I wore some yet again yesterday.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I agree, and I love that slightly tart, smoky church frankincense smell. It's in Givenchy III too, which I know I keep comparing to Dior Dior...
    This Dior-Dior bottle supports your argument that the good ones outweigh the ones that don't work out.




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