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  1. #61
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Diorissiomo:
    I simply love it. I spritzed it last night and boy does it develop. The EDC may be the way to go with this.
    Citrus up top with some moss. During the mid and drydown there is some musk+wood thingy. Will have to wear it again for more clarity.
    And the mugeut plays a second fiddle throughout.
    Wife said - "Very Good"
    Miss Dior was - "Yuck"
    This is the best you are going to get out of her. Works for me

    I am wearing miss dior today. And it is good despite galbanum.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  2. #62

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Miss Dior was - "Yuck"


    I am wearing miss dior today. And it is good despite galbanum.

    Ha ha! Dear Epapsiou, I think I am part of the 0,000001% of Basenotes members that has never smelled Miss Dior until now! And as I have already talked about in another thread, I am trying to find a decent bottle of it. Why yuck? What was the shock factor, if there's any?

  3. #63
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilturko View Post
    Ha ha! Dear Epapsiou, I think I am part of the 0,000001% of Basenotes members that has never smelled Miss Dior until now! And as I have already talked about in another thread, I am trying to find a decent bottle of it. Why yuck? What was the shock factor, if there's any?
    With the Mrs I have learnt to not ask why. Makes for a blissful marital life
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  4. #64
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    You can count me among the fans of Dior-Dior. I have never associated it with Chanel No.5 in any way, but that's just me.

    Diorella is another standout. I have only smelled it in vintage extrait, and would love to experience the EDT.

    Diorling and Diorama are two that I've never had the opportunity to try. And my chances of getting lucky and scoring a bottle of either (on the cheap, that is) seem pretty low.

    Eau Fraiche: I have a splash bottle that seems to be in fine condition. It reminds me of Miss Dior with maybe a bit of Rochas Moustache in the mix. I have all three, so I'm thinking I should try a drop each of Eau Fraiche and Moustache on one arm, a drop of Miss Dior on the other, and see if the impression still holds.

    I am surprised no one has brought up Dioressence. That and Diorella are my favorites among the vintage Diors I've been able to try.

  5. #65
    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Hello Vintage Dior Crew-

    Hey! look at me--I figured out how to do the multi-person quotation thing...

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Miss Dior was - "Yuck"
    This is the best you are going to get out of her. Works for me

    I am wearing miss dior today. And it is good despite galbanum.
    Like Gilturko, I am tempted to ask Mrs. Epapsiou "Why Yuck?" but I will refrain. To each, her own, in perfumes.

    But since you write "good despite galbanum," I will dare to ask, sotto voce, "Is it the galbanum?" I have a crackpot theory about galbanum, you see. I think it is the vintage ingredient that generates the most negative responses, especially from noses who prefer the warmer, balsamic, gourmand-leaning compositions of today. I could wear galbanum straight up (try a tiny sample from Eden Botanicals if you are interested) but I get it--it's bitter, chalky-mineral, acid green...and I love it. I think that galbanum is often misidentified as civet or aldehydes by those who are unfamiliar with it. (Not you, Epapsiou, or others here.)

    Quote Originally Posted by RoRo View Post
    You can count me among the fans of Dior-Dior. I have never associated it with Chanel No.5 in any way, but that's just me....

    I am surprised no one has brought up Dioressence. That and Diorella are my favorites among the vintage Diors I've been able to try.
    Thanks for joining in RoRo. I'm with you. To me, Dior Dior resembles green-leaning chypres such as Givenchy III more than No.5.

    I was wondering when we would discuss Dioressence too! I find it very unique and enjoyable. The vintage EDT is very long lasting and the vintage parfum is one of my treasures. I typically wear Dioressence in cooler weather, since it dries down to a warm, incensey, spicey fume on me. Also, Dioressence is the only vintage Dior that suggests to me that it could have come from Guerlain instead of Dior--the vanillin or tonka or whatever it is in the base.

    What do you like best about Dioressence, RoRo?
    Currently wearing: Scandal by Lanvin

  6. #66
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by RoRo View Post
    so I'm thinking I should try a drop each of Eau Fraiche and Moustache on one arm, a drop of Miss Dior on the other, and see if the impression still holds.
    You definitely should try that and check back in with results. I'm very fond of Moustache.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I was wondering when we would discuss Dioressence too! I find it very unique and enjoyable. The vintage EDT is very long lasting and the vintage parfum is one of my treasures. I typically wear Dioressence in cooler weather, since it dries down to a warm, incensey, spicey fume on me. Also, Dioressence is the only vintage Dior that suggests to me that it could have come from Guerlain instead of Dior--the vanillin or tonka or whatever it is in the base.
    We did overlook Dioressence, for shame. I have a small 1980s parfum somewhere, and neglected to include it with Bavard's sample pack. I need to hunt it down today and remind myself what I think of it. My recollection is that its oriental-spiciness put it outside the "Roudnitska family" of Dior scents for me (like Miss Dior), so I'm inclined to give it short shrift.

  7. #67

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Dioressence.

    A friend time ago sent me a sample to test, from her bottle: the one in the metallic blue canister, I do think early 80s.
    A beautiful ambergris with a feral growl underneath. I picture the image of rich brocades in rust, red and dark green hiding a beast -a feline without doubt- that you can't identify and leaves you uncertain whether it is going to lick your hands or tear off your whole limb.

  8. #68
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post



    Thanks for joining in RoRo. I'm with you. To me, Dior Dior resembles green-leaning chypres such as Givenchy III more than No.5.

    I was wondering when we would discuss Dioressence too! I find it very unique and enjoyable. The vintage EDT is very long lasting and the vintage parfum is one of my treasures. I typically wear Dioressence in cooler weather, since it dries down to a warm, incensey, spicey fume on me. Also, Dioressence is the only vintage Dior that suggests to me that it could have come from Guerlain instead of Dior--the vanillin or tonka or whatever it is in the base.

    What do you like best about Dioressence, RoRo?
    Givenchy III is another personal favorite. I love the late drydown when it turns into a skin scent. When I wear G III, I like to have some on my forearm so I can keep going back for more!

    Dioressence, for me, has a hint of the mysterious that makes it special. Dioressence is warm and spicy, but there is a green earthiness to it as well. In some ways it reminds me of Rochas Mystère and her olfactory cousin, Magie Noire. But whereas the Rochas and Lancome strike me as being somewhat otherworldly, Dioressence is very much of this earth.

    I should clarify that the above relates to Dioressence 2.0, by which I mean the version released in 1979. The bottle of EDT that I have dates to either 1989 or 1979. The batch code is 9874N, and is etched into the glass. It's the ribbed bottle that we're probably all familiar with.
    The original Dioressence (1969) is noticeably different. I find it has a creamy quality, and a sweet nuttiness that I think might be ambergris, which seems to have played a key role in the creation of Dioressence when Guy Robert put it together in the late '60s.

    I'm not too clear on the history of Dioressence. Seems like I've read that Dioressence was released in 1969 and had been discontinued for a few years before being reformulated and re-released in 1979.
    My bottle of original Dioressence looks like this.



    I'm not sure if Dioressence 1.0 was ever packaged any other way, but I'm fairly certain that these blue bottles were long gone by the time D2.0 was released.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    You definitely should try that and check back in with results. I'm very fond of Moustache.
    Well, you should probably forget what I said about Moustache. My impression of Moustache was based on the aftershave. But as it turns out, this is a case where the aftershave and the cologne smell markedly different. I learned this by opening a sealed, vintage bottle of EDC that I had.

    I didn't realize the herbs were so prominent in Moustache. The aftershave is basically all about the citrus notes.

    Christian Dior Eau Fraiche is heavy on the citrus, but has no herbal dimension at all. I do pick up a touch of oakmoss.

    With that said, I do still see Eau Fraiche as a distant cousin of Miss Dior, though. Much lighter and fresher, as you'd expect, but with a distinct air of Miss Dior whispering in the background.

    In reviews, some people draw a comparison between Eau Fraiche and Eau Sauvage. Yeah, I don't see it, myself.
    Last edited by RoRo; 5th September 2017 at 12:46 PM.

  9. #69
    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by RoRo View Post
    Dioressence, for me, has a hint of the mysterious that makes it special. Dioressence is warm and spicy, but there is a green earthiness to it as well. In some ways it reminds me of Rochas Mystère and her olfactory cousin, Magie Noire. But whereas the Rochas and Lancome strike me as being somewhat otherworldly, Dioressence is very much of this earth.

    I should clarify that the above relates to Dioressence 2.0, by which I mean the version released in 1979. The bottle of EDT that I have dates to either 1989 or 1979. The batch code is 9874N, and is etched into the glass. It's the ribbed bottle that we're probably all familiar with.

    The original Dioressence (1969) is noticeably different. I find it has a creamy quality, and a sweet nuttiness that I think might be ambergris, which seems to have played a key role in the creation of Dioressence when Guy Robert put it together in 1969
    Hello everyone-

    I hope there is still interest in continuing our vintage Dior discussions. I have been wanting to respond to your post, RoRo, where you provided such a wonderfully detailed answer to my query regarding your impressions of Dioressence. Thanks so much. I've been thinking about the complex history of Dioressence for a while. It's an unusual perfume, and its history is a bit confusing.


    There is an oft-retold birth story for Dioressence involving Guy Robert, a bar of soap scented with a Miss Dior dupe, and a lump of ambergris which I believe originates in The Emperor of Scent. Let's just say, I think it's a great story. Dioressence was launched in 1969 as a spa scent along the lines of Matchabelli's Abano. (The blue mosaic patterned packaging is even similar.) I have the Dioressence bath oil version--"concentree pour le bain bath perfume" --in the aqua blue spa packaging. RoRo's photo of the aqua blue Dioressence 1.0 atomiseur is from this period.

    Then we get Dioressence 2.0, the 1979 relaunch, with reported reformulation by Max Gavarry, although I have also read that Gavarry was involved in the 1969 launch. The aqua blue spa packaging was dropped for packaging with darker blue mosaic accents. I have the Dioressence bath oil, parfum, and EDT from this era, and all are absolutely outstanding. Here are photos of the bottles from this era that I found online:

    IMG_2632.JPGIMG_2555.JPGIMG_2631.JPG

    But--here's the deal--I don't see much of a difference between Dioressence 1.0 and 2.0. My Dioressence 1.0 bath oil and my Dioressence 2.0 bath oil/parfum/EDT smell like the same composition to me. RoRo, it seems that you do find differences, based on your memory of the original aqua blue bottle that you had and the Dioressence in the "ribbed bottle" that you currently have, which I infer is like the vaporisateur in the first photo. Perhaps the differences are more evident when comparing the aqua blue "Eau Parfumee" and the 1979 EDT. Does anyone have additional evidence for the 1979 "Gavarry reformulation"?

    After 1979, things get even murkier, and there is a evidence of substantial reformulation in recent years. Elena Vosnaki writes on her blog that Dioressence was "thinned beyond all recognition"in the early 2000's. In 2011 Fragrantica's Sergey Borisov asked Francois Demachy to account for Dior's terrible reformulations of its classics and Demachy stated outright, "As for modern Dioressence, I do not like it either, and I am working on it right now." (This is quoted by Victoria Frolova on her Bois de Jasmin blog, but I have not been able to track down the original interview, which was published in a Russian GQ). I have not read anything to confirm that the improvements Demachy mentioned were in the works in 2011 have taken place. Some more photos from the web:
    IMG_2553.JPGIMG_2556.JPG

    I have not tried Dioressence from these two newer bottles because I probably have enough Dioressence, but I am curious about them. I have some notes that the first one, which dates from the 1990's, is worthwhile. The second is the 2009 Les Créations de Monsieur Dior. If you have Dioressence in one if these bottles, please share your impressions of it, I'd love to hear about it!
    Currently wearing: Scandal by Lanvin

  10. #70
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    The second is the 2009 Les Créations de Monsieur Dior. If you have Dioressence in one if these bottles, please share your impressions of it, I'd love to hear about it!
    I'm not familiar with either of them, but this might be an appropriate place to drop in a quote from Basenoter jtd's review of them:

    Quite unfortunately, Dioressence’s lasting contribution [to] perfume history is that it started Dior’s trend of continual, unacknowledged reformulation. Look no further than the bottomless pit of Dior Homme and Miss Dior Chérie reformulations. Actually, look further. The unambitious reformulations of Dior’s classics like Diorissimo, Diorling and Diorama—‘Les Créatures* de Monsieur Dior’ I believe they’re called—are the logical and regrettable outcome of the repeated tinkering with Dioressence over the years.


    *(sp), but probably intentional

  11. #71
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I hope there is still interest in continuing our vintage Dior discussions.
    Always.

  12. #72
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole
    Hello everyone-

    I hope there is still interest in continuing our vintage Dior discussions. I have been wanting to respond to your post, RoRo, where you provided such a wonderfully detailed answer to my query regarding your impressions of Dioressence. Thanks so much. I've been thinking about the complex history of Dioressence for a while. It's an unusual perfume, and its history is a bit confusing.


    There is an oft-retold birth story for Dioressence involving Guy Robert, a bar of soap scented with a Miss Dior dupe, and a lump of ambergris which I believe originates in The Emperor of Scent. Let's just say, I think it's a great story. Dioressence was launched in 1969 as a spa scent along the lines of Matchabelli's Abano. (The blue mosaic patterned packaging is even similar.) I have the Dioressence bath oil version--"concentree pour le bain bath perfume" --in the aqua blue spa packaging. RoRo's photo of the aqua blue Dioressence 1.0 atomiseur is from this period.

    That story about Guy Robert, the lump of ambergris, and the bar of soap is the one I've heard. Is it true? Apocryphal? Either way, it is a great story.
    This is the first I've heard the term "spa scent". Could you elaborate? I do remember reading somewhere that Dioressence was first released as a bath oil.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole
    Then we get Dioressence 2.0, the 1979 relaunch, with reported reformulation by Max Gavarry, although I have also read that Gavarry was involved in the 1969 launch. The aqua blue spa packaging was dropped for packaging with darker blue mosaic accents. I have the Dioressence bath oil, parfum, and EDT from this era, and all are absolutely outstanding. Here are photos of the bottles from this era that I found online:
    . . . . . .
    But--here's the deal--I don't see much of a difference between Dioressence 1.0 and 2.0. My Dioressence 1.0 bath oil and my Dioressence 2.0 bath oil/parfum/EDT smell like the same composition to me. RoRo, it seems that you do find differences, based on your memory of the original aqua blue bottle that you had and the Dioressence in the "ribbed bottle" that you currently have, which I infer is like the vaporisateur in the first photo. Perhaps the differences are more evident when comparing the aqua blue "Eau Parfumee" and the 1979 EDT. Does anyone have additional evidence for the 1979 "Gavarry reformulation"?
    I still have the aqua blue bottle of Eau Parfumee seen in that photo. I actually sprayed some on my arm to reacquaint myself with the scent before sitting down to write my previous post. Dioressence 2.0 (EDT) was on the other arm. And yes, the vaporisateur in the photo you posted is what I call the "ribbed bottle".
    I've never smelled the bath oil, but I did own a dab bottle of the parfum (D 2.0). I kind of regret selling it now, because I'd like to compare it with the Eau Parfumee.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole
    After 1979, things get even murkier, and there is a evidence of substantial reformulation in recent years. Elena Vosnaki writes on her blog that Dioressence was "thinned beyond all recognition"in the early 2000's. In 2011 Fragrantica's Sergey Borisov asked Francois Demachy to account for Dior's terrible reformulations of its classics and Demachy stated outright, "As for modern Dioressence, I do not like it either, and I am working on it right now." (This is quoted by Victoria Frolova on her Bois de Jasmin blog, but I have not been able to track down the original interview, which was published in a Russian GQ). I have not read anything to confirm that the improvements Demachy mentioned were in the works in 2011 have taken place. Some more photos from the web:
    . . . . . .
    I have not tried Dioressence from these two newer bottles because I probably have enough Dioressence, but I am curious about them. I have some notes that the first one, which dates from the 1990's, is worthwhile. The second is the 2009 Les Créations de Monsieur Dior. If you have Dioressence in one if these bottles, please share your impressions of it, I'd love to hear about it!
    I haven't tried the Dioressence in those newer bottles, either. If I understand correctly, the Les Créations de Monsieur Dior version is still available, so maybe I can try it at a Dior counter around here. And Diorella and Eau Fraiche, while I'm at it.
    As for whether Dioressence has been "thinned beyond all recognition", and when it might have occurred, I certainly haven't been keeping up. My general sense is this: It all went downhill in the early 2000s.

  13. #73

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Of the classics, I wore Diorissimo, Miss Dior and Dioressence in the 80s-90s, and I have the current versions now. Yes, they've been reformulated for the worse, and if one had access to vintage versions, I wouldn't see any reason to replace those with the current versions.

    However, I do like the current versions for what they are. I thought Demarchy made a good effort to reproduce the DNA of the 3 whilst (sorry) modernising them a little. Both Miss Dior and Dioressence are less dense and less powdery now, IIRC Dioressence is less mossy, more clean patch now. I enjoyed wearing them, perhaps because I find them, even with reformulation, to be far better than 99% of currently produced perfumes (and definitely far better than most of Chanel's reformulations).

  14. #74
    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by RoRo View Post
    I still have the aqua blue bottle of Eau Parfumee seen in that photo. I actually sprayed some on my arm to reacquaint myself with the scent before sitting down to write my previous post. Dioressence 2.0 (EDT) was on the other arm. And yes, the vaporisateur in the photo you posted is what I call the "ribbed bottle". I've never smelled the bath oil, but I did own a dab bottle of the parfum (D 2.0). I kind of regret selling it now, because I'd like to compare it with the Eau Parfumee.
    Hello again RoRo-

    So you still have both bottles? Sorry, I misunderstood your previous post and thought the aqua blue bottle was in your past and the ribbed was current. And you sold the parfum?!?! How could you do it? They will have to pry mine out of my cold dead hands (along with quite a few others!).

    Yeterday, I wanted to redo the Dioressence 1.0 and 2.0 comparison so I put the aqua blue packaged oil on one arm and the darker blue packaged parfum on the other and went about my day. And...they smelled the same to me, yet again. I fear I am going to be tempted to buy an aqua blue Dioressence Eau Parfumee, just for the purpose of research, of course!

    "Spa scent"--I picked up that term from this post about Abano on the delightful blog The Vintage Perfume Vault (no longer updated, sadly, but oodles of great reading there):

    http://thevintageperfumevault.blogsp...no-prince.html

    When I read about Abano, I immediately thought of Dioressence, since this market for bath oils and products seems to have been the original target for its 1969 launch. I have some vintage Abano oil too, and there is definitely a connection.

    Here's a 1960 Abano ad with the bath tiles and an aqua blue towel, just for fun.

    IMG_2634.JPG
    Currently wearing: Scandal by Lanvin

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Hello again RoRo-

    . . . you sold the parfum?!?! How could you do it? They will have to pry mine out of my cold dead hands (along with quite a few others!).
    Now, was that necessary?
    Really, it's not something I regret. I thought it over, and decided it was one I could let go of. I still have the Eau Parfumee, the EDT, and even a few ml's of the Esprit de Parfum.


    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole
    Yesterday, I wanted to redo the Dioressence 1.0 and 2.0 comparison so I put the aqua blue packaged oil on one arm and the darker blue packaged parfum on the other and went about my day. And...they smelled the same to me, yet again. I fear I am going to be tempted to buy an aqua blue Dioressence Eau Parfumee, just for the purpose of research, of course!
    It can get confusing. All I can say is that the Eau Parfumee smells different to me, and I've smelled it from a few different bottles.
    Maybe there never was a major reformulation. I will say that, based on what I've seen while trawling the online auctions, it seems very plausible that Dioressence was discontinued only a few years after its 1969 launch, before later being reintroduced in 1979. And on a side note, I don't think I've ever seen Dioressence EDT in an atomizer bottle, which is odd. Diorissimo and Miss Dior (and maybe Eau Sauvage) were still being packaged that way in the early '80s.


    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole
    "Spa scent"--I picked up that term from this post about Abano on the delightful blog The Vintage Perfume Vault (no longer updated, sadly, but oodles of great reading there):

    http://thevintageperfumevault.blogsp...no-prince.html

    When I read about Abano, I immediately thought of Dioressence, since this market for bath oils and products seems to have been the original target for its 1969 launch. I have some vintage Abano oil too, and there is definitely a connection.

    Here's a 1960 Abano ad with the bath tiles and an aqua blue towel, just for fun.
    Wow. That's another great ad. Funny how it shares the mosaic tile imagery with the Dioressence packaging.
    Thanks for the link, too. The concept of a spa scent is a little clearer now.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Love Dioressence and Diorella. Not a big fan of Miss Dior and I'm not quite sure why.

    Still need to smell Diorling, and am afraid to because I simply can't afford another vintage love affair with an-impossible-to-find-and-buy fragrance. :-(

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Still need to smell Diorling, and am afraid to because I simply can't afford another vintage love affair with an-impossible-to-find-and-buy fragrance. :-(
    Then whatever you do, don't ever sniff Dior-Dior. You will weep from the frustration of its elusiveness.

    Edit: Typing that made me crave Dior-Dior, so I sprayed on a little of Malle's 'Parfum de Therese' to tide me over, and you know what? It really is a pretty good anodyne for that itch, and for Diorella too. Just a little less rich than the old Diors -- like having to settle for a milkshake when what you really wanted was a malt.
    Last edited by Cook.bot; 14th September 2017 at 07:04 PM.

  18. #78
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Then whatever you do, don't ever sniff Dior-Dior. You will weep from the frustration of its elusiveness.
    I'll try valiantly to keep my snoot away from Dior-Dior!

  19. #79
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Then whatever you do, don't ever sniff Dior-Dior. You will weep from the frustration of its elusiveness.

    Edit: Typing that made me crave Dior-Dior, so I sprayed on a little of Malle's 'Parfum de Therese' to tide me over, and you know what? It really is a pretty good anodyne for that itch, and for Diorella too. Just a little less rich than the old Diors -- like having to settle for a milkshake when what you really wanted was a malt.
    Hi-

    I agree 100x about the elusiveness of Dior-Dior. If you look hard, you can pick up a tiny pebble bottle reasonably, but you will have to content yourself with droplets for evermore.

    On the other hand, I think you can get a bottle of the bodacious vintage Diorella for less than what you would pay for Malle's Parfum de Therese, which goes for, what, $300 for 100 ml? The resemblance is definitely there, but to me Parfum de Therese was more like nonfat milk when compared to Diorella's richness.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    but to me Parfum de Therese was more like nonfat milk when compared to Diorella's richness.


    Yeah, that's probably a more accurate comparison.

    My small Parfum de Therese was a gift, but you're absolutely right about the value-per-ml comparison.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post


    Yeah, that's probably a more accurate comparison.

    My small Parfum de Therese was a gift, but you're absolutely right about the value-per-ml comparison.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by JackTwist View Post
    Just noted that a number of Dior vintage bottles have been offered on Etsy by ParfumsdeParis, if anyone is interested.
    You have been talking a lot about this Etsy store. In various threads. Are you affiliated with them?
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I want to share my thoughts on two of the vintage Diors, Diorling and Diorama.

    Diorling is a classic leather chypre, and I'd agree with the poster who says it's a tamed Bandit. It is definitely close to both Cabochard and Bandit, but it's not as green as the former nor as animalic as the latter. Instead, it's smooth, velvety, and impeccably elegant.

    Diorama--the original formulation from the 1940s to the 1970s--is probably my favorite chypre of all time. To me, it occupies an intermediary position between Guerlain's Mitsouko and Rochas's original Femme, but is closer to the Femme. All three are classic fruity chypres, but whereas Mitsouko features peach and Femme plum, Diorama features a warm, citrus orange peel note. It has a very rich oakmoss base that's bitter and inky and is balanced by the sunny citrus note. If you want a crash course in classic chypres, you can't do better than these three, which to me are kind of a perfumery triptych.

    For this reason, as good as the 1980s or 2000s Diorama might be, I can't appreciate those formulations because the original Diorama really didn't have green notes.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by granola357 View Post
    For this reason, as good as the 1980s or 2000s Diorama might be, I can't appreciate those formulations because the original Diorama really didn't have green notes.

    I'm not sure where the Diorama that Bavard was testing would appear on your spectrum (see Post #12 for photo of bottle, circa 1980), but I can't honestly call this version "green". To me it's a fruity chypre (like Femme and Diorella) decorated with some green notes. But I'd dearly love to smell the earlier versions you reference.


    Quote Originally Posted by granola357 View Post
    If you want a crash course in classic chypres, you can't do better than these three, which to me are kind of a perfumery triptych.
    Now that's a statement with which I could never argue. Well put.

    And thanks for joining in, granola357. You've also made me salivate for some Diorling, which I've never experienced.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    A bit late to the vintage Dior party - sorry!

    DIorling pretty much heads the list for me. I don't understand others' references to Bandit here: there's no cracking galbanum, nothing green or sappy or redolent of rubber/harsh leather. What there is, is the bare bones of Miss Dior draped in the smoothest, butteriest suede accessorised with light florals. Of the classics this one speaks most obviously of Dior luxe, to my nose. I am, it goes without saying, referring to vintage here.

    DIoressence is a perfume that, on paper, I really ought to love (patchouli! ambergris!), but ultimately I find it too powdery in the drydown owing to (I imagine) the styrax. My wallet thanks me for once.

    Eau Fraiche - Good to see this one mentioned. It's most definitely on the same access as Eau Sauvage and Diorella, and is indeed very close the latter in terms of DNA and overall feel. In fact I've read that Roudnitska used it as a starting point for Diorella. It doesn't seem to be very well known so prices might be surprisingly reasonable. Lots of lemon, rendered very juicy thanks to hedione, on the trademark oakmoss base.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    DIorling
    the bare bones of Miss Dior draped in the smoothest, butteriest suede accessorised with light florals. Of the classics this one speaks most obviously of Dior luxe, to my nose.
    With every turn of the wheel, my craving for Diorling grow and grows....

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by granola357 View Post
    I want to share my thoughts on two of the vintage Diors, Diorling and Diorama.

    Diorling is a classic leather chypre, and I'd agree with the poster who says it's a tamed Bandit. It is definitely close to both Cabochard and Bandit, but it's not as green as the former nor as animalic as the latter. Instead, it's smooth, velvety, and impeccably elegant.

    Diorama--the original formulation from the 1940s to the 1970s--is probably my favorite chypre of all time. To me, it occupies an intermediary position between Guerlain's Mitsouko and Rochas's original Femme, but is closer to the Femme. All three are classic fruity chypres, but whereas Mitsouko features peach and Femme plum, Diorama features a warm, citrus orange peel note. It has a very rich oakmoss base that's bitter and inky and is balanced by the sunny citrus note. If you want a crash course in classic chypres, you can't do better than these three, which to me are kind of a perfumery triptych.
    Dear Granola357--We must be scent siblings, separated at birth, because I perceive these perfumes very much as you do. You have described them so beautifully.

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    DIorling pretty much heads the list for me. I don't understand others' references to Bandit here: there's no cracking galbanum, nothing green or sappy or redolent of rubber/harsh leather. What there is, is the bare bones of Miss Dior draped in the smoothest, butteriest suede accessorised with light florals. Of the classics this one speaks most obviously of Dior luxe, to my nose. I am, it goes without saying, referring to vintage here.
    Dear SaminLondon--
    I also love your description of the vintage Diorling. The Bandit comparison is certainly not exact (I suggested the "tamed Bandit') and I agree that there is much less galbanum and greenness in vintage Diorling, but unlike you, I do not get "rubber/harsh leather" in Bandit, which would rule it out for me, because I truly hate rubber notes. I think the topnotes are different, but the drydowns of Bandit and Diorling converge for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    With every turn of the wheel, my craving for Diorling grow and grows....
    Dear Cook.bot--

    It's a very worthy craving. Get them all!
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    3. Diorissimo extrait - 1980
    Cook.bot was kind enough to spread some of the love my way (thank you!) and last night I had time to dig into some of the Dior - first, the 1980 Diorissimo

    This strikes me as a stripped-down floral done to near perfection with high quality materials. The opening is almost tropically floral without leaning into fruit punch territory (no surprise to see ylang listed). Rich, lush, deep - all without feeling heavy or cloying. In fact, it's alarmingly light and airy at the same time. Kind of hard to describe, as it is almost a contradiction.

    It prominently features a full-bodied lily of the valley note which is also not cloying, as it sometimes can seem to me. This lends a beautiful, crisp, dewy white/green vibe without feeling too stuffy. I found the tropical ylang to burn off fairly quickly, at which time the LotV pretty much takes over. There is a woody backbone to this that brings to mind sandalwood, not as a featured note but rather part of the matrix, providing attachment points for the florals.

    Great stuff. While very floral-forward and feminine (as far as my tastes go), if I had a craving for a LotV scent, I'd have no problem breaking this out and dabbing some on while I'm out and about on a spring day. It is also very much a time-machine scent. We had a large patch of LotV in my front yard growing up. My mom was a flower/gardening nut, as well as a wearer of this perfume oil called Rain from a local apothecary (which funny enough was called Lily's of the Alley) which was primarily a LotV soliflore, but way more heady/rubbery than this. It takes me back.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Cook.bot was kind enough to spread some of the love my way (thank you!) and last night I had time to dig into some of the Dior - first, the 1980 Diorissimo

    This strikes me as a stripped-down floral done to near perfection with high quality materials. The opening is almost tropically floral without leaning into fruit punch territory (no surprise to see ylang listed). Rich, lush, deep - all without feeling heavy or cloying. In fact, it's alarmingly light and airy at the same time. Kind of hard to describe, as it is almost a contradiction.

    It prominently features a full-bodied lily of the valley note which is also not cloying, as it sometimes can seem to me. This lends a beautiful, crisp, dewy white/green vibe without feeling too stuffy. I found the tropical ylang to burn off fairly quickly, at which time the LotV pretty much takes over. There is a woody backbone to this that brings to mind sandalwood, not as a featured note but rather part of the matrix, providing attachment points for the florals.

    Great stuff. While very floral-forward and feminine (as far as my tastes go), if I had a craving for a LotV scent, I'd have no problem breaking this out and dabbing some on while I'm out and about on a spring day. It is also very much a time-machine scent. We had a large patch of LotV in my front yard growing up. My mom was a flower/gardening nut, as well as a wearer of this perfume oil called Rain from a local apothecary (which funny enough was called Lily's of the Alley) which was primarily a LotV soliflore, but way more heady/rubbery than this. It takes me back.
    Wonderfully descriptive ISOe!!
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Cook.bot was kind enough to spread some of the love my way (thank you!) and last night I had time to dig into some of the Dior - first, the 1980 Diorissimo
    I just broke these out again Wednesday for a sniffing session, dabbing on paper. Diorissimo has huge personality.




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