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  1. #91
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Diorama (from a 1978 EdT)

    Opens fresh and green/white, perhaps more lily of the valley? Pretty sure there is some jasmine involved too. It’s quite mellow. Watery isn’t the best descriptor, but this has a fresh watery quality to it. Light on its feet. I have to say, this has survived remarkably well, being almost 40 years old. It doesn’t smell old at all, quality nor composition wise. There is a clear bouquet of fruit that starts to come out but is never sugary, heavy, or cloying – strikes me as peach and red berries. It’s complimented by the florals and offset by an increasingly noticeable green character that strikes me as a bit vegetal, perhaps a small dose of galbanum and/or violet leaf. It's not astringent, though.

    Maybe 45 minutes in, the fruits have receded, the white florals have come forward more, and the jasmine is clear as a bell…but instead of smelling like straight indolic jasmine, it smells like jasmine incense. Very lightly, but I get an unlit incense vibe or some kind of resin. It has started to take on an oh-so-slight powdery feel, like super fine talcum powder. It’s so fine that “powdery” strikes me as the wrong word to use, but I’m at a loss for a better one. 90 minutes in now and everything in pretty much status quo, except there is now a leathery component to the base. Given the time period, my bet is on castoreum.

    Roudnitska is no slouch, that’s for sure. This is an expertly balanced fragrance. Fruit that is never too heavy, jasmine indoles that purr rather than growl, on an airy yet substantial base of powder that isn’t powdery. The good old days, am I right?


    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I just broke these out again Wednesday for a sniffing session, dabbing on paper. Diorissimo has huge personality.
    Quote Originally Posted by purecaramel View Post
    Wonderfully descriptive ISOe!!
    Thank you sir. As Bavard said, huge personality. I find these well-crafted, nuanced Diors of yesteryear quite easy to go on about. So many notes come through with ease and such a high degree of clarity that I barely have to think about it. I preferred Diorissimo, but Diorama has plenty to like as well. It seems more complex. And I'm seriously impressed by how well these held up to the relentless march of time.

  2. #92
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    I preferred Diorissimo, but Diorama has plenty to like as well. It seems more complex. And I'm seriously impressed by how well these held up to the relentless march of time.
    I agree they smell fresh off the shelf. Diorama is especially nice, for my tastes. I like your smelling notes on the development, and the transition to a more leathery base.

  3. #93
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Roudnitska is no slouch, thatís for sure. This is an expertly balanced fragrance. Fruit that is never too heavy, jasmine indoles that purr rather than growl, on an airy yet substantial base of powder that isnít powdery. The good old days, am I right?
    I really hope Grayspoole comes by to read your notes, IsoE, because I think you just assembled the best description of Diorama I've ever seen, and I've been wearing it and studying it for years. It continually vies with Eau d'Hermes for my favorite Roudnitska of all time.

    It's the green, vegetal quality among the florals that so appeals to me. And your "jasmine incense" comment just put a finger on a element in the mid-notes that I've never been able to quite pin down.

    The freshness these old EdTs have retained has always made me hunger for the extraits of the same era, but I despair of that happening, due to their rarity and expense now.

    (For anyone craving vintage Diorissimo but not relishing the hunt for it, Grayspoole mentions in Post #40 of this thread that she found a 2014 "extrait de parfum" version of it that lived up to the standards of vintage, and she provides a photo of it too.)

  4. #94
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Hello Fellow Vintage Dior Fans--

    Thanks to a cold that I acquired over the weekend, I can't smell a thing, but I have been enjoying reading the latest posts here.

    @IsoESuperman

    I agree with Cook.bot--that's a very beautiful analysis of Diorama. I have the vintage parfum, in two of those little 1/8 oz cylinder bottles. It's a beautiful scent, and when I have worn it, it reminded me both of Miss Dior (the galbanum, the touch of leather, the musky finish) AND Femme/Mitsouko. So Diorama somehow occupies a middle ground between green/musky chypre and fruity chypre. I remember being struck by the presence of Prunol--that dried peach fruit leather stuff that is so addictive.

    What's not to like? Diorama is gorgeous. When I get a nose back. I'll try the parfum again. I would have to say, IsoESuperman, that Diorama didn't feel as green to me as the EDT you described, but perhaps that is easily explained by the difference in formulation. (Note to self: perhaps I really need some vintage Diorama EDT!!! ) Also, I favor really strong greens, so subtler green notes sometimes don't register with me as green.

    I thought I would mention Granola357's observation upthread that Diorama has a "orange peel note." Next time I wear Diorama, I want to see if I can find that, too. Did you get that, IsoESuperman?

    Enjoy your day, friends!
    Currently wearing: Scandal by Lanvin

  5. #95
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Since today is Christmas, I'm giving myself a special treat of wearing some of my last 5mls of Vintage Dior-Dior Extrait - 1978.

    My idealized Santa's workshop would be full of elves pumping out oceans of this stuff and of Diorama.

    Dior-Dior_parfum_quarterounce.small.jpg

  6. #96

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Since today is Christmas, I'm giving myself a special treat of wearing some of my last 5mls of Vintage Dior-Dior Extrait - 1978.

    My idealized Santa's workshop would be full of elves pumping out oceans of this stuff and of Diorama.

    Dior-Dior_parfum_quarterounce.small.jpg
    Wow, what a beauty! I'd love to have a sniff of that.

  7. #97
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    ::::
    Last edited by Cook.bot; 24th April 2018 at 04:03 AM.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    This is the Miss Dior bottle that Bavard and Purecaramel have samples of.

    Surprisingly, I like it even better than the extrait. This edition of the EdT is to my nose the richest, most well-balanced of the Misses that I've smelled. Just the right amount of animal, subdued florals, and the right oakmoss punch in the base.

    Attachment 70785
    I’ve been smelling the vintage parfum version (extrait) of Miss Dior this morning, and it’s also really nice, more feminine to my nose, thicker as I would expect, powdery, woody, and glamorous.

  9. #99
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Iíve been smelling the vintage parfum version (extrait) of Miss Dior this morning, and itís also really nice, more feminine to my nose, thicker as I would expect, powdery, woody, and glamorous.
    Bavard, do you find the parfum version too feminine for a man to wear? Seems like lots of guys find the vintage EDT perfectly suitable for a male.

  10. #100
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Bavard, do you find the parfum version too feminine for a man to wear? Seems like lots of guys find the vintage EDT perfectly suitable for a male.
    The parfum is more of a stretch. I think the edt can smell unisex-ish. The parfum smells more feminine. But, no, I wouldn’t call it too feminine for a man to wear. Sometimes it can across as leathery, which is a more unisex aspect. The powder in the parfum smells feminine to me.

    It’s such a great perfume.

  11. #101
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    This is the Miss Dior bottle that Bavard and Purecaramel have samples of. Surprisingly, I like it even better than the extrait. This edition of the EdT is to my nose the richest, most well-balanced of the Misses that I've smelled. Just the right amount of animal, subdued florals, and the right oakmoss punch in the base.

    Attachment 70785
    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I’ve been smelling the vintage parfum version (extrait) of Miss Dior this morning, and it’s also really nice, more feminine to my nose, thicker as I would expect, powdery, woody, and glamorous.
    Always a pleasure that read about vintage Miss Dior--my #1 perfume. I agree about the beauty of the vintage houndstooth EDT, which is the bottle I would grab if I could have only one perfume (in an alien abduction perhaps?). Vintage Miss Dior EDT has everything I crave--galbanum, greenery, flowers, musk, and oakmoss, and it wears beautifully over the course of a long day. It's potent but never overpowering. The vintage parfum is also wonderful, more subtle, closer to the skin, "thicker" as Bavard says, and muskier. I wear the parfum more in the winter. Sometimes both.
    Currently wearing: Scandal by Lanvin

  12. #102
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Bump
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Here is Purecaramel's full review on Dior Dior.

    Sample of the Dior Dior Parfum.
    Great thanks to Cook.Bot for this opportunity to taste a vertical of Edmond Roudnitska.

    Eye roll! There is a giddiness that comes about and tickles the same spot as orgasm. I'm back to 10 years old and my first bottle of Eau Sauvage. Did Roudnitska ever produce anything ugly? Gosh this is lovely!

    Oakmoss is such a magical thing. For me it pairs with the Citrus to create a Savon which then, puffs in a dimensionality, unmistakeable. Oakmoss Singular identifies itself for me as Butter Oil like clarified.

    The Narcisse draws a rigid stripe through the centre. Muguet is there and then gone to return as a pulse after the Jasmine narcotics my brain cells.

    As Parfum does, it produces a bubble or halo over my skin, a voluminous cushion of sumptuous-ness.

    Although there is a Feminine tilt, I find it quite wearable as a dude.

    Discontinued. Therefore no reforms.
    All of which makes it quite dear.
    My eyes will be watching.

  14. #104
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Here is Purecaramel's full review on Dior Dior.
    Great review, as usual. What has you thinking of Dior Dior today, Bavard?
    Currently wearing: Scandal by Lanvin

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Great review, as usual. What has you thinking of Dior Dior today, Bavard?
    I'll bet it was that "20 Time Travel Favorite Vintages" thread. I was pleased to see it on Bavard's list, even if it was an also-ran.

    Am I right, B?

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Great review, as usual. What has you thinking of Dior Dior today, Bavard?
    I'm not sure how Dior Dior surfaced. I've been enjoying aldehydes lately. We're finally stocked on Miss Dior. We've been loving Chanel No. 5. Dior Dior came to mind as the next one to consider. (I'd also like some old Chanel Bois des Iles and Guerlain Vol de Nuit.)

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I'll bet it was that "20 Time Travel Favorite Vintages" thread. I was pleased to see it on Bavard's list, even if it was an also-ran.

    Am I right, B?
    Yes, it came to mind as one of the great vintage Dior's.

  17. #107
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    This is the Miss Dior bottle that Bavard and Purecaramel have samples of.

    Surprisingly, I like it even better than the extrait. This edition of the EdT is to my nose the richest, most well-balanced of the Misses that I've smelled. Just the right amount of animal, subdued florals, and the right oakmoss punch in the base.

    Attachment 70785
    Beautiful juice. Happy birthday, CB!
    Nobody puts POLO in the corner!

  18. #108
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Marand75 View Post
    Beautiful juice. Happy birthday, CB!
    Thanks, Marand. It was 2 years ago, but I wouldn't mind if the birthdays started moving backwards.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Thanks, Marand. It was 2 years ago, but I wouldn't mind if the birthdays started moving backwards.
    Haha I know what you mean!
    Oh, yes, 2017...
    Nobody puts POLO in the corner!

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    We’re going with this bottle for Diorama. Interesting that it doesn’t say Diorama on the bottle. Wearing the sample from Cook.bot again, it doesn’t last too long, but it’s amazing while it does.

    C6BFAE3B-BCEB-4F57-AF1A-F98CBBBF4F6C.jpg

    00686FAE-5A8C-40FE-8955-2BC75B4768F7.jpg

    2B8A8F95-0604-4787-B426-E4E35ADFB9D4.jpg

    Update: It says Diorama on the nozzle, which I can see now that I have the bottle.

    6EC3038E-6863-4489-AE83-60F2FA6E03BE.jpg
    Last edited by Bavard; 31st May 2019 at 04:00 PM.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    We’re going with this bottle for Diorama. Interesting that it doesn’t say Diorama on the bottle. Wearing the sample from Cook.bot again, it doesn’t last too long, but it’s amazing while it does.
    Eek! I've ever seen that bottle in the wild, and it's gorgeous! I hope Grayspoole drops by; maybe she'll know its age, because I sure don't.

    I hope that volume indicator means it holds 1/3 ounce. If it means 3 ounces, I might have a stroke.

    Diorama has been edging out Diorella lately as my favorite vintage Dior. And incidentally, my Diorama EDT lasts longer on me than my parfum does. But that might be a function of age ... the parfum's age, not mine.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    The biggest surprise of all was the recent tester of ďextrait de parfumĒ which dates to 2014, I believe. I stumbled upon this one, and itís the only modern version of a classic Dior that I own. I enjoy wearing this very much--it has excellent longevity and feels lively and refreshing--and it allows me to conserve my vintage Diorissimo parfum! I donít know if this is the same juice that is currently on the market--does anyone have more information on this version?
    We smelled the current versions of Diorissimo this weekend in Chicago (RHM, her sister, and me) and we liked them (edt, edp, and parfum). RHM's sister went with a 50-ml spray of the parfum, a savvy pickup.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    RHM's sister went with a 50-ml spray of the parfum, a savvy pickup.
    They sell extraits in 50ml bottles? That surprises me.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Eek! I've ever seen that bottle in the wild, and it's gorgeous! I hope Grayspoole drops by; maybe she'll know its age, because I sure don't.

    I hope that volume indicator means it holds 1/3 ounce. If it means 3 ounces, I might have a stroke.

    Diorama has been edging out Diorella lately as my favorite vintage Dior. And incidentally, my Diorama EDT lasts longer on me than my parfum does. But that might be a function of age ... the parfum's age, not mine.
    Dior.jpg

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    They sell extraits in 50ml bottles? That surprises me.
    They've done it in the past with Miss Dior Parfum, 50-ml aersol sprays.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    They've done it in the past with Miss Dior Parfum, 50-ml aersol sprays.
    I didn't know that. But I don't really keep up much with the current offerings.

    I'm thrilled for you (and Jules) that you got that 3-ounce EDT. Can hardly wait to hear your verdict on it.

    I blinked a couple of hours ago and missed out on this -- 6 ounces of vintage Diorling, boxed. Final price comes out to about $28/ounce. You can hardly get mediocre mall scents for that price.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-WIT...orig_cvip=true

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    vintage Diorling
    I'm making so much progress getting to know these Dior's, but I don't think I've tried Diorling yet.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm making so much progress getting to know these Dior's, but I don't think I've tried Diorling yet.
    We'll have to fix that. Since you started this thread two years ago, I've acquired Diorling, Eau Fraiche, and Dioressence.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Weíre not sure what to make of the new Diorama bottle. Mixed reviews so far. Not as easily likable as Cook.botís version.

  30. #120

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    We’re not sure what to make of the new Diorama bottle. Mixed reviews so far. Not as easily likable as Cook.bot’s version.
    That's disappointing! I was hoping for better news on that front; I'm loving Cook.bot's version, too.

    I think I'll be ok though; I'm loving everything else she sent, too. Thanks for inviting me to the Dior party, Cook.bot! I have a gorgeous bag of goodies here and am ready to really dig in. I knew/vaguely recalled a couple of these and had sniffed some reformulated classics, I guess around ten years ago- and didn't find what the fuss was about then. More recently, BNer Kotori sent me a pretty recent sample of Diorella, which I do remember from my youth; this reform was a vast improvement on the previous one, I thought. Outside of that, I'm really only truly familiar with Diors starting with Poison up until now. And even that sampling has been hit or miss. Not a Dior expert by any means! As far as this thread is concerned, I am a child learning to ride without training wheels. So here I go!

    I'm wearing 1980 Diorissimo parfum for the second day in a row. I almost never wear from a sample two days consecutively and when I do, it usually foreshadows a future purchase. A real indicator of lasting love. And I hope it is! I don't have a single lotv-focused scent in my collection. I want one; I do have a nice big patch of the real thing. It's one of those old, established lotv beds that's probably about as old as my 90 yr. old farmhouse. Here in Indiana, there's a long tradition of planting them where nothing else will grow. We have plenty of shady trees and crappy clay soil and lotv just love it here. I've been smelling them as long as I can remember and never want to live anywhere I can't grow them. My mom was equally swoony over these little guys. They're just so stinkin' cute and THAT SMELL!

    That smell is nothing like most modern so-called lotv perfumes. cacio always says the modern ones smell like functional perfumery and I agree. Unfortunately, I can get more descriptive than that- they usually smell like the same fragrance used in feminine hygiene products. Modern lotv=tampon. I'll pass.

    The closest I've ever gotten to real lotv satisfaction is Evyan's White Shoulders, which was my mom's signature, but was also as much about the aldehydes. Certainly not a soliflore. Penhaligon's has their Lily of the Valley, which is close if not terribly interesting to wear. Really, I can see now that I was just waiting for Diorissimo.

    All of that was just to say that Diorissimo is, to me, lily of the valley soliflore perfection. While I do occasionally pick out jasmine and ylang distinctly, these flowers mostly remain hard at work creating the lotv accord. It just reads as the most realistic lotv soliflore I've ever smelled. This is astounding to me and I can't stop marvelling at the fact that this was even possible. It feels delicate yet packs a punch, just like those charming little flowers.

    I think I do get what others call a streak of animalic but to me, it reads as inky. There's something quite dark here and that makes sense, as the real plant does thrive in the shadows. The area near a lotv patch will usually be shady and cool; this feeling is also captured in Diorissimo. It's simply gorgeous and it's absolutely obvious that a true lover of this flower was involved in its creation. I'm so glad I never caved and bought a lesser lily of the valley perfume. This is the only one that matters, for my money. If this had been the only scent in my package, I would still feel ridiculously spoiled. I only wish my mom could smell it; I'd bet money she never did. If she had, I believe she'd have worn it. Thank you so much for this, Cook.bot.

    To summarize, Diorissimo smells just like this!

    2018-05-23_10-05-12_216.jpg




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