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  1. #241

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    Brilliant post! I'm glad you did get into the philosophy; that paragraph is just wonderful! You tied all the ends together for me here, articulating just what I was getting at (better than I ever could!) while explaining the whys and hows of liking what I like. Mind blown! The more abstract and intangible aspects of perfume wearing are endlessly fascinating to me. Without this understanding we are missing out, reducing artistic perfumes to mere toiletries. They are indeed grooming products but there's so much more to it than that. Especially when considering these obviously lovingly-composed old Diors!

    A little sidetrack- for excellent narcissus and nothing else, I think it would be hard to do better than Dame Perfumery's Narcissus from their Soliflore line. Narcissus is a pretty complex smell on its own, so I'm wondering if this may scratch an itch for you, Lellabelle? I have to say, Vol de Nuit is the one I reach for when I just want to wallow in the Guerlainade, which makes me think you assessed it correctly for your own tastes the first time. The narcissus note is fabulous but again, quite similar to that of Miss Dior, which sounds as though it does fit you just perfectly!

    And thank you for the welcome; the dark side smells great!! I think I'll be happy here.

    Cheers to our brave, two-scent-wearing gents! Now that's the spirit of exporation!

    I'm twins with Bavard today! Farting Diorama has had some sprays released and several days to rest so I thought this is a good time to compare side by side with Cook.bot's sample. This time, I am convinced the aldehydes have turned in the Farting example. I do get more of a resemblance to Cook.bot's today, but a faint, ghost-like resemblance. The fruits in non-farting Diorama seem downright voluptuous by comparison. Still, I maintain that there is some very pretty floral powder in Bavard's sample and I enjoy that but I do see why your gal wasn't terribly pleased with it. I still think I wouldn't guess it as Diorama. Having known Diorella and read about Diorama prior to this sampling group, Cook.bot's Diorama sample smells pretty much exactly as I had imagined.

    I'll wrap up my Miss Dior thoughts tomorrow and move on to Diorling and Eau Fraiche next week! Bavard, I've been thinking about a list. It's going to be the hardest preference list I've ever made! Can I put them all at #1?
    Wow. I don’t know what to say, but thank you.

    Thanks for the Dame Narcissus suggestion. I’m not familiar with it, but will add it to the test list! I have Ostara, and enjoy Au Dela Narcisse from time to time, but there’s something in the dry down of that one that tends to turn a little funky. I love the LMR narcissus absolute, which I know features prominently in both of these. They’re handled totally differently though, with Ostara’s dry down being all about the clean musk. If I could scrap that and just have the opening portion, I’d be thrilled! You’re right that it’s a wonderfully complex material and I love it’s marshy, rooty, dank, earthy, wet green elements alongside the fresh, bright, crisp, sharp yellow of the flower. Those contradictions we were appreciating captured in a single essence
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  2. #242
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Need to fix the pic to text ratio of this thread
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
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    Currently wearing: Coriolan by Guerlain

  3. #243
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    And this is the one that got me into vintage Dior hole. I think this is Grayspoole signature scent.
    I think I am partial to the EDT here.
    Last edited by epapsiou; 14th June 2019 at 02:04 AM.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
    Currently wearing: Coriolan by Guerlain

  4. #244

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Beautiful, Epapsiou!
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  5. #245
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    I had a bottle of Diorissimo that was labeled "pour le voyage". Do you know what this signified? My thought was that these bottles may have been sold only at duty-free shops.

    Here's a bottle of Eau d'Hermes with a similar designation (modele voyage).


  6. #246
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    ...I adore narcissus in perfume. I struggle with the Guerlainade base, so haven’t given Vol de Nuit the attention she probably deserves. I should start a thread at some point for exploration of the note, as I’m sure there are many beautiful narcissus perfumes that I’ve yet to discover.
    Try Tabac Tabou by Parfum d'Empire. Huge narcissus note!
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

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  7. #247
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by RoRo View Post
    I had a bottle of Diorissimo that was labeled "pour le voyage". Do you know what this signified? My thought was that these bottles may have been sold only at duty-free shops.
    ]
    I thought it was for the long voyage on a cruise ship.
    That is the only voyage where one can possibly need 16 oz bottle of Diorling
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
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  8. #248
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    I thought it was for the long voyage on a cruise ship.
    That is the only voyage where one can possibly need 16 oz bottle of Diorling
    Sixteen! I had forgotten it was that size.

    It would be cool if they made a bottle that could rock back and forth, like Johnnie Walker Swing.

  9. #249
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by RoRo View Post
    I had a bottle of Diorissimo that was labeled "pour le voyage". Do you know what this signified? My thought was that these bottles may have been sold only at duty-free shops.
    I've had several bottles marked "voyage", and the one thing they all had in common was they were all splashes, and all had a restrictor plug in the neck of the bottle -- presumably to prevent spills on the train or the ship. And they were all either Dior or Hermes.

  10. #250
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I've had several bottles marked "voyage", and the one thing they all had in common was they were all splashes, and all had a restrictor plug in the neck of the bottle -- presumably to prevent spills on the train or the ship. And they were all either Dior or Hermes.
    Restrictor plug. . . by golly, that's just what it is. I never would have known what to call it. My Diorissimo had one, and it didn't occur to me that it was unusual.
    I'm curious about the where "voyage" editions were sold. Seems like distribution would have been limited to certain locations.

  11. #251
    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Hi all-

    Inspired by our wonderful discussions, I wore my Dior Dior parfum yesterday. I have just one of those itsy bitsy pebble botttles, but for once, I applied my usual amount of a vintage parfum, rather than a stingy drop, and sashayed off into my day.

    And, yeah, Dior Dior was really good. I always wonder if I need to hunt for more Dior Dior, but once again, I felt that I could manage to survive without it. It always reminds me of vintage Givenchy III, which I admire and wear fairly often, but Dior Dior has a touch more of the Roudnitska fruit, while Givenchy III has more hefty oakmoss and woods. Does anyone else see this connection? And if you haven't tried vintage GIII, you really, really should.

    The estimable jtd reviewed Dior Dior here and on his blog:

    http://scenthurdle.com/digging-into-...ior-dior-1976/

    It's a delightfully cranky review:

    "Compared to Diorella’s sultriness and easy virtue, and Eau Sauvage’s cruisy Playboy After Dark vibe, Dior Dior is a prig."

    Illustrated with a photo of Up With People!!! (Younger folks cannot begin to imagine the horror of watching Up With People on TV in the 1970's. )

    I don't think Dior Dior is prim and mainstream, but perhaps its restraint makes it seem less essential to me?
    Currently wearing: Joy by Jean Patou

  12. #252
    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Today's a rare day in the office, and I'm fairly dolled up wearing Miss Dior and Vol de Nuit.
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    OMG we were on the same wavelength Bavard. Today I wore Vol de Nuit ('new' Parfum) and Dryad by Papillon Perfumes both in the span of a few hours.
    I love it! No one smells this interesting at MY office, except possibly little old moi...

    What did you think of Dryad, Mike? The rapturous reviews had me almost ready to blind buy, but I found the sample did not live up to the hype.
    Currently wearing: Joy by Jean Patou

  13. #253
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I don't think Dior Dior is prim and mainstream, but perhaps its restraint makes it seem less essential to me?
    Having something similar helps, as do the prices for Dior Dior. And perhaps it doesn't grip you as much as some others, say Miss Dior. I was noticing Epapsiou has Miss Dior in three concentrations.

    Do you consider Chanel No. 5 prim? I think there's an interesting prim / racy combination to Dior-Dior and No. 5.

  14. #254

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Up With People, lol! Haven't thought of that in ages!

    Stunning pics, epapsiou! I love the way the houndstooth makes your colorful trophies pop! And I especially love your choice of Diors. I haven't written on Diorling yet; will just say for now that I'm swooning with envy!

    Just yesterday, I noticed that Chanel is offering a "Le Voyage" set of their Eaux and then checked in to find le voyage talk here! Very interesting! I don't believe I've ever had a voyage bottle; I like the sound of the old Dior ones. I like splashes, though I know one must be careful when buying vintage splashes.

    I keep going back and forth between the two Miss Diors. I think I do prefer the 1970 EdT over the 1980 one. I hate to say it because both are gorgeous and I'd be thrilled with either as far as purchasing goes. The florals in the 1980 version are so beautifully preserved and normally, this would win me over. However, the drydown of the 1970 version is a bit different to my nose (possibly a change in the musks?) and it's just one of those elegantly earthy smells that hits the spot and is rarely found these days. Divine. Like the Diorella samples, they're both obviously Miss Dior, just made-up slightly differently.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Do you consider Chanel No. 5 prim? I think there's an interesting prim / racy combination to Dior-Dior and No. 5.
    Exactly! I think of this type of scent like I do Hitchcock blondes; icy, but with something smoldering underneath. Not a proper Bad Girl but not uptight, either. Just human, I suppose. "Prim/racy" is just right!

  15. #255

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    I thought it was for the long voyage on a cruise ship.
    That is the only voyage where one can possibly need 16 oz bottle of Diorling
    16 oz of Diorling? Oh my!
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  16. #256

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Try Tabac Tabou by Parfum d'Empire. Huge narcissus note!

    I should revisit this one. I’ve only ever tried it on test strips, back in 2015/2016, and again in 2018. It wasn’t what I expected, I remember that much. I really should seek some out and reconsider it as a narcissus, not a tobacco. Thank you, mikeperez23, for the suggestion!
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  17. #257

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Hi all-

    Inspired by our wonderful discussions, I wore my Dior Dior parfum yesterday. I have just one of those itsy bitsy pebble botttles, but for once, I applied my usual amount of a vintage parfum, rather than a stingy drop, and sashayed off into my day.

    It always reminds me of vintage Givenchy III, which I admire and wear fairly often, but Dior Dior has a touch more of the Roudnitska fruit, while Givenchy III has more hefty oakmoss and woods. Does anyone else see this connection? And if you haven't tried vintage GIII, you really, really should.
    I can see the parallels, certainly. More perhaps with GIII parfum, than other concentrations, where it’s a little deeper and richer. You’re right about the fruits. GIII goes in a different direction there. And I agree, it’s one to try if the opportunity arises. Here’s my parfum, which you have inspired me to wear today
    A6951E0C-2C71-4B4E-9337-8D768C6ED522.jpg

    “Delightfully cranky” is my modus operandi today. I get some vacation tomorrow, so “sultriness and easy virtue” are holiday goals
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  18. #258

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    I keep going back and forth between the two Miss Diors. I think I do prefer the 1970 EdT over the 1980 one. I hate to say it because both are gorgeous and I'd be thrilled with either as far as purchasing goes. The florals in the 1980 version are so beautifully preserved and normally, this would win me over. However, the drydown of the 1970 version is a bit different to my nose (possibly a change in the musks?) and it's just one of those elegantly earthy smells that hits the spot and is rarely found these days. Divine. Like the Diorella samples, they're both obviously Miss Dior, just made-up slightly differently
    Thanks for this reflection on the similarities and differences. It’s really helpful!
    Chypreish”:
    /ˈSHēpRAiSH/
    adjective
    (of a person or expression) to be desirous of an abundance of chypre.
    "Today, she was feeling chypreish”

  19. #259
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    16 oz of Diorling? Oh my!
    I know. The only thing I buy in that kind of quantity is milk.

    I tried to talk him into selling it to me when he found it, but he wouldn't budge. And really, who can blame him?

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    And so the learning process now begins
    GRAYSPOOLE DIOR SAMPLES.jpg
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  21. #261
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    There are currently two reports on Basenotes from members who attended the recent Osmotheque conference on Edmond Roudnitska. Both are virtually mandatory reading for anyone discussing the vintage Diors here, since he created all of them except Miss Dior and Dioressence.

    Wild Gardener's blog post:
    http://www.basenotes.net/entries/127...ing-Roudnitska

    Saminlondon's forum post:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/466...smoth%C3%A8que

    The notes on the "absent" Diorama lead me to believe that they couldn't locate the formula, since all of the 18 scents presented were completely re-created by the Osmotheque specifically for this conference.

    Most fascinating takeaway: Le Parfum de Therese was supposed to be the original formula for Fidji by Guy LaRoche!

    (It's outside the scope of this thread, but for me the most exciting revelation was that there truly was a "Grande Eau d'Hermes", since I'd only ever heard that referred to vaguely, and this seems to confirm that it really did exist. Perhaps the Osmotheque will be able to reconstruct it too one day.)

  22. #262
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    We have three versions of vintage Diorama going in this thread, and the Osmothèque came up empty handed. I always knew Basenotes was hardcore.

  23. #263
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    We have three versions of vintage Diorama going in this thread, and the Osmothèque came up empty handed. I always knew Basenotes was hardcore.


    I'm licking my thumb and applying it to my hip while making a sizzling sound.

    But I do think they were talking about the actual formula, and not the commercially produced version of the perfume.

  24. #264
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Do you consider Chanel No. 5 prim? I think there's an interesting prim / racy combination to Dior-Dior and No. 5.
    In his review of vintage Dior Dior, Jtd calls it "prim" but I don't agree with this. At worst, I think Dior Dior is not as great a perfume as Diorella or Givenchy III, less original perhaps, but since I think Diorella and Givenchy III are among the top 10 vintage perfumes I have, that's not much of a criticism. I don't perceive much similarity between the vintage Dior Dior parfum and vintage No.5 parfum and vintage No. 5 EDC that I have. And I do not find vintage No. 5 "prim" at all. The waxy, makeup-y aldehydes, nitromusks, and civet in vintage No. 5 are 100% feminine bombshell to me. I am almost ashamed to wear it with my usual trousers and boots.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lellabelle View Post
    I can see the parallels, certainly. More perhaps with GIII parfum, than other concentrations, where it’s a little deeper and richer. You’re right about the fruits. GIII goes in a different direction there. And I agree, it’s one to try if the opportunity arises. Here’s my parfum, which you have inspired me to wear today.
    What did you think of it, Lellabelle? I always think Givenchy III should get more credit than it does. It's really the first and best of its kind (1970's chypre).

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    There are currently two reports on Basenotes from members who attended the recent Osmotheque conference on Edmond Roudnitska. Both are virtually mandatory reading for anyone discussing the vintage Diors here, since he created all of them except Miss Dior and Dioressence.
    Thanks for posting these Cook.bot: I would have missed Wild Gardener's summary otherwise.

    It will sound like sour grapes, but I can I still say that sniffing perfumes on paper alone never satisfies me? Scent on paper vs. skin can smell dramatically different. I don't care how they smell on paper.

    And while I am being "undelightfully" cranky, does anyone else think that there may be some creative license being used in the Osmotheque reconstructions? I first had this thought when I saw that a natural deer musk tincture was being used to recreate Evening in Paris instead of vintage nitromusks...that seemed really odd. Vintage Evening in Paris is a gentle, honeyed, ladylike floral and I would say the raunchiness of a natural deer musk tincture has no place in it. Given that so many vintage ingredients and, even more crucially, vintage perfume bases are long gone, perhaps the perfumers at Osmotheque sometimes resort to using the closest available equivalents? Wild Gardener is getting lavender and cumin in the Femme reconstruction, and I have to say that I have never perceived either of these notes in my vintage Femme. Curious to hear what you all think of this (admittedly) contentious suggestion.
    Currently wearing: Joy by Jean Patou

  25. #265
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    And so the learning process now begins
    GRAYSPOOLE DIOR SAMPLES.jpg
    Oh yay! Can't wait to hear what you think.
    Currently wearing: Joy by Jean Patou

  26. #266

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Oh yay! Can't wait to hear what you think.
    Same here! Excited for you to join in, N.Cal! That's a very interesting swap you two did; well done! I'm also enjoying your Neil Morris posts, grayspoole! Looking forward to more!

    I agree, just smelling scents on paper only goes so far. Good for a quick take or to refresh the memory on something you already know. It doesn't replace actual sampling on skin.

    As to the Osmotheque question, I admit I hadn't thought that deeply about it and hadn't read about the MiP reproduction's musks. I agree the deletion of nitromusks doesn't make sense, though! And Femme almost sounds like they're talking about the newer, reformulated version, what with the cumin. Except I never got lavender in any Femme I tried, either. Setting aside possible differences in olfactory perception, I don't think your suggestion is contentious, just fair and valid questioning. And I must insist that you are indeed DELIGHTFULLY cranky! Never undelightful!

  27. #267
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I've just spent a delightful all-Diorama afternoon, comparing lavish applications of Grayspoole's, Bavard's and mine. This is perfume heaven for me.

    My nose finds very little difference between my bottle and Grayspoole's -- the snappy greens, a heart of blended florals that are mostly indistinct to me except for a watery lily, and all that delicious overripe melon. But there is one crucial difference: Grayspoole's sample seems to me to have an undertone of animalic growl that appears near the middle phase, and which mine doesn't have. In mine there's a skank element, but it's entirely botanical, like the sap from a broken green stem. Grayspoole's is more mammalian; not sweaty exactly, but a definite smell of warm skin. It's very appealing to me.

    Since both seem to be from the same era (1970-1980), I'm wondering if this means that her bottle is better preserved than mine, and retains its civet/castoreum base more intact. But on the other hand, mine lasted much longer on my skin than hers did, a good 90 minutes longer, so mine has retained at least some of its fixatives.

    And Bavard's gassy Diorama is, I fear, "exhausted" as Grayspoole said. There is powder, and there are florals, but that's about it. It doesn't smell sour, or turned, but there seem to be big blank spaces, whole chunks of the perfume missing. How sad that is, to imagine this beautiful perfume languinshing and dying inside a bottle instead of being enjoyed as it should have been. It encourages me to use up my vintage scents instead of just admiring them, as I too often do.

    Tomorrow I'm going to move on to Diorling, my bottle of which came from Epapsiou's giant Vat o' Dior that he pictured here.
    Last edited by Cook.bot; 16th June 2019 at 12:07 AM.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I'll be sampling for the first time ever Diorella later tonight. By notes this one seems to be similar in line with Sous Le Vent, No 19, Aubepine Acacia. We'll see how my nose decides. Dioressence also has some similar notes so that would be next up.
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Oh yay! Can't wait to hear what you think.
    Thank You grayspoole

    Also I received another batch of masculine Guerlains, Hermes, and a few others to try, all vintage. I'll be smelling these for the first time as well. I'll be going back and forth between samples
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm especially interested in Sous le Vent, so I did a comparison wearing with Diorella.

    Sous le Vent is a more typical chypre. Oak moss is the main note. It also has "heat" similar to Patou Pour Homme and Bandit, perhaps from galbanum? It's a spicy cinnamon heat in this case - maybe different from Patou Pour Homme and Bandit (there's some overlap among these three, I can't say what all).

    For my tastes, it does not get much better than Sous le Vent. Maybe vintage Chanel Pour Monsieur, or Mitsouko.

    Diorella has much more of the fruit / woods / playful accord - less serious, more of a unique style - rounded - vintage Dior - completely missing the heat of Sous le Vent - overly soft and inviting - it's all about the fruit. Without fruit, it's just a light, soapy woods.

    Switching back and forth - Diorella smells like a baby. It's that soft and innocent. Sous le Vent is like cinnamon sticks, almost dangerous.
    Diorella EDT

    This was my motivation to start with Diorella as the notes seem very similar to one another. Having Diorella on myself for a while now, some of the biggest differences between this and Sous Le Vent are at the opening. Diorella is a lot more luminous and bright. It has a stronger emphasis on the lemons and bergamot and the additional note of basil. The last time I smelled a heavily dominated basil note was in Jo Malone Lime, Basil, Mandarin. In the Jo Malone fragrance, the basil was too hard dense for my liking and so it wasn't something that I felt comfortable wearing. The basil in Diorella played more of a supporting role but it was definitely there. There was a stronger emphasis on fruit notes, I could detect a peach note one that was similar to 4160 Tuesday's Doe In The Snow. Unlike the DITS, it was much more natural smelling. Even with the strong bergamot and lemons that was present, the green aromatic remained the dominating note. Once the opening settled down, I could smell some of the honeysuckle florals one that is similar to Creed Chevrefeuille. Unlike the Creed the honeysuckle note here is more subtle which perfectly blends into the background. There was clearly some other florals present but my nose wasn't able to identify them in particular. Finally my favorite part is the oakmoss present at the base. It stayed close to the skin but it has a nice aroma aroma every time I placed my arm up against my nose. This was really good. I hope I find some of the other Diors likable as well.

    The question now is this worth buying and would I be able to wear it?
    Last edited by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer; 16th June 2019 at 04:17 AM.
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