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  1. #1
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    Default Women's Dior Circa 1980

    In thanks to and in honor of Basenoter extraoridnaire Cook.bot, who's celebrating a birthday this weekend - happy birthday, Cook.bot - I'm starting this thread with notes from five women's Dior perfumes she sent me to sample:

    1. Miss Dior edt - 1980

    2. Diorama edt - 1980

    3. Diorissimo extrait - 1980

    4. Dior-Dior extrait - 1978

    5. Diorella edt - 1985

    I'm starting with Miss Dior edt. Another Basenoter extraordinaire, Epapsiou, thinks this is unisex, perhaps leaning masculine, and I agree. It's quite good, arguably flawless, and sampling it is an experience on par with my first wearing of vintage Chanel Pour Monsieur - it's that good, not that it smells too similar, but it is similarly classic, effortless, safely irreproachable, and delicious. I could go on. It's on par with my favorites.

    This is a 1947 release, which is a match for the classic smell, and the 1980 version I'm sampling is impeccable. It's hard to imagine an earlier version smelling much richer or a later version smelling more pristine.
    Last edited by Bavard; 27th August 2017 at 01:08 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Happy birthday, Cook.bot!

    Couldn't agree more about Miss Dior. I have some from that period and it smells divine...so well blended, with a gorgeous spine holding it all together.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I'm so glad you're digging into these old Diors, Bavard, and really eager to hear your thoughts.

    We really need to pull BNer grayspoole into this thread -- she's the true Dior maven, and her collection makes me look like a piker. I'll PM her to see if I can lure her in. Just take a look at that vintage wardrobe of hers and you'll be swooning.

    And thank you and Bonnette for the birthday wishes. You know, of course, that I'm spending the entire weekend in lashings of my favorite vintage; so what could be better than reading about old Diors while absolutely swimming in old Eau d'Hermes?

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    Talking Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    This will be interesting Mon Ami.
    I just did a Roudnitska Dior favourites thanks to the fabulous Birthday Girl Cook.bot.
    I support drawing Grayspoole in if we can as she is a Dior PHD.
    Look forward to hearing all your impressions. Miss Dior Vintage sounds like a winner.

    Cook.bot you are scented Hot today!
    Last edited by purecaramel; 27th August 2017 at 04:27 PM.
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  5. #5
    Missing Oakmoss

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    You know, of course, that I'm spending the entire weekend in lashings of my favorite vintage; so what could be better than reading about old Diors while absolutely swimming in old Eau d'Hermes?
    Nothing that I can think of, offhand!

    Grayspoole does indeed have a marvelous wardrobe.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    This is the Miss Dior bottle that Bavard and Purecaramel have samples of.

    Surprisingly, I like it even better than the extrait. This edition of the EdT is to my nose the richest, most well-balanced of the Misses that I've smelled. Just the right amount of animal, subdued florals, and the right oakmoss punch in the base.

    MissDior1980sEdT.jpg
    Last edited by Cook.bot; 27th August 2017 at 08:16 PM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Wow, it looks completely full and pristine...like the self-replenishing bottle of sherry in The Bishop's Wife (don't we wish)!

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    Wow, it looks completely full and pristine...like the self-replenishing bottle of sherry in The Bishop's Wife (don't we wish)!
    Sadly, that's not my bottle, but a blogger's photo. Mine is about half empty.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Sadly, that's not my bottle, but a blogger's photo. Mine is about half empty.
    Ah, of course. Sometimes I'm too much of a literalist.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Diorama edt - This is another beauty. Searching for its Chanel analog, my mind is drawn to Cristalle edp, which I remember as being similarly thick and fruity, from sampling. This doesn't reach the heights of Miss Dior, for my tastes, but it's nice. I've already been bottle shopping for Miss Dior. For this one, I applaud the beauty and craftsmanship, but I'm not as drawn to it, although I could imagine it being a head turner worn by someone else.

    Similar to Miss Dior, this 1949 release is well-suited for men. Another fragrance that keeps coming to mind is Jacomo Silences. Diorama might be moving away from the innocence of the Cristalle edp opening into a darker territory, perhaps shared with Piguet Bandit, with the patchouli taking prominence.
    Last edited by Bavard; 28th August 2017 at 02:57 PM.

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Thanks for the review. Apparently, Diorama shifted a bit over time, so interesting to know that in the 80s it was a green chypre. Nowadays of course Dior cares about Diorama only because it gave the name to a successful handbag.

    cacio

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Apparently, Diorama shifted a bit over time, so interesting to know that in the 80s it was a green chypre.
    I'm inspired to join Bavard today, with Diorama as my vintage SOTD. I wouldn't call what Bavard & I are smelling a green chypre, but a fruity chypre, with definite green elements. It has the strongest punch of Roudnitska's famous rotting-melon accord, at least in this version (1980s EDT). That melon note is very strong from start to end, don't you think, Bavard? It's my favorite of the florals he did for Dior, even more so than the vaunted Diorella.

    There's a good article about the reforms on Perfume Shrine:
    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/20...010-first.html

    And here's the bottle Bavard and I are both smelling today:

    DioramaEDT_houndstooth.jpg
    Last edited by Cook.bot; 4th May 2018 at 12:36 AM.

  13. #13

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Happy Birthday Cook.bot and enjoy the Diors, all! Great stuff.
    Very clearly a case for corn flakes and classics
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Thanks for the informative link. Animalic fruity chypre - sounds delicious.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Last year at Manhattan Meetup, Bavard and I stopped at the Dior counter at Bergdorf. They had all their classics hidden away in special flacons and price was $600 or so each. Bavard was smitten by them. Much more than their Prive line. Rightfully so. All of them have been reformulated but I think they are still good and better than most new shite.
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I'm inspired to join Bavard today, with Diorama as my vintage SOTD. I wouldn't call what Bavard & I are smelling a green chypre, but a fruity chypre, with definite green elements. It has the strongest punch of Roudnitska's famous rotting-melon accord, at least in this version (1980s EDT). That melon note is very strong from start to end, don't you think, Bavard? It's my favorite of the florals he did for Dior, even more so than the vaunted Diorella.
    It has a lovely base. It is fruit-centric. Rotting melon could be a useful mnemonic device for the effect, but instead of smelling like rotting fruit, to me it smells like fruit with top shelf oak moss and patchouli. The idea of Diorama making its way onto my wish list has flickered across my mind a few times during the development.

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Last year at Manhattan Meetup, Bavard and I stopped at the Dior counter at Bergdorf. They had all their classics hidden away in special flacons and price was $600 or so each. Bavard was smitten by them. Much more than their Prive line. Rightfully so. All of them have been reformulated but I think they are still good and better than most new shite.
    That display at Bergdorf Goodman had slipped my mind, but while sampling these I do have a recurring thought similar to the one I had that day, that these perfumes are more interesting than most new releases by a comfortable distance.
    Last edited by Bavard; 12th May 2019 at 10:22 AM.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I'm inspired to join Bavard today, with Diorama as my vintage SOTD. I wouldn't call what Bavard & I are smelling a green chypre, but a fruity chypre, with definite green elements. It has the strongest punch of Roudnitska's famous rotting-melon accord, at least in this version (1980s EDT). That melon note is very strong from start to end, don't you think, Bavard? It's my favorite of the florals he did for Dior, even more so than the vaunted Diorella.

    There's a good article about the reforms on Perfume Shrine:
    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/20...010-first.html

    And here's the bottle Bavard and I are both smelling today:

    Attachment 70841
    I know it's been talked about before but I can't help thinking that Dior had a lot of cheek using the Chanel pattern.
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  18. #18
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by purecaramel View Post
    I know it's been talked about before but I can't help thinking that Dior had a lot of cheek using the Chanel pattern.
    Are you talking about a "pattern" (similarity) in the scents, or the houndstooth pattern on the packaging?

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Are you talking about a "pattern" (similarity) in the scents, or the houndstooth pattern on the packaging?
    The Houndstooth. I know it's not patented, however Black and White Houndstooth was sort of a Chanel whistle. Then again, maybe it's the other way around?
    As far as similarities in scents Bavard is the resident Chanel PHD. For as long as I have known him he's used Chanel Bois Noir, Pour Monsieur and CDR as a reference point. Pretty good standard in my books. Chanel has'nt really produced any dogs to my mind.
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  20. #20
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by purecaramel View Post
    .. Chanel has'nt really produced any dogs to my mind.
    Oh but they have.
    Blue, Allure line and Platinum spring to mind
    Last edited by epapsiou; 28th August 2017 at 09:08 PM.
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  21. #21
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Oh but they have
    Blue, Allure line and Platinum spring to mind
    I would add Chance.

    Their batting average is just so much higher than most, their flops fade into the background. And even the flops aren't out & out horrible, just 'meh' compared to their usual quality.

    Wish we could still say the same about Dior.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    I would add Chance.

    Their batting average is just so much higher than most, their flops fade into the background. And even the flops aren't out & out horrible, just 'meh' compared to their usual quality.

    Wish we could still say the same about Dior.
    Yes. They probably have the best average in this industry. When random acquaintances ask for my advice on what to buy, I tell them to try stuff at chanel counter and buy what they like.
    Last edited by epapsiou; 28th August 2017 at 09:14 PM.
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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Oh but they have.
    Blue, Allure line and Platinum spring to mind
    Well yeh, maybe those are not to my taste, however they have been very popular and hold there place snug up at the bar. Mind you I think the newest EDP in the Exclusif's are backing away from the bar with some generic Woody compound fixative.
    Dior has savaged my Eau Sauvage and insulted it with Sauvage. There's no way back for me at least with their Regular line.
    Hermes disappoints with the neutering of Bel Ami. I think I'm slipping into the Vintage Rabbit hole like old codgers do.
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  24. #24
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by purecaramel View Post
    Dior has savaged my Eau Sauvage and insulted it with Sauvage. There's no way back for me at least with their Regular line.
    Now, now. This is supposed to be a thread celebrating the OLD Diors. We all know the tragedies of the current abominations.

    Let's wait and see what antique glory Bavard has for us to revel in tomorrow. We can pretend, if only for a few minutes, that it's 1982 all over again.

    Happy thoughts, happy thoughts!

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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Now, now. This is supposed to be a thread celebrating the OLD Diors. We all know the tragedies of the current abominations.

    Let's wait and see what antique glory Bavard has for us to revel in tomorrow. We can pretend, if only for a few minutes, that it's 1982 all over again.

    Happy thoughts, happy thoughts!
    Just had a shower.
    Spritzed alittle Dior Dior.
    Everything's all rightin the world again.
    Hey I just read someplace that if you spritz Vintage Femme and Vintage Diorella layered you get Parfum de Therese.
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  26. #26
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by purecaramel View Post

    Hey I just read someplace that if you spritz Vintage Femme and Vintage Diorella layered you get Parfum de Therese.
    That actually makes sense to me. But why would you squander your vintage frags like that (both so good on their own), when you can still get Parfum de Therese at retail?

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    That actually makes sense to me. But why would you squander your vintage frags like that (both so good on their own), when you can still get Parfum de Therese at retail?

    True, however I like to dream that I was rich enough to frolic in this way!
    Scarcity is an illusion. Unlearn it.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    This is the Miss Dior bottle that Bavard and Purecaramel have samples of.

    Surprisingly, I like it even better than the extrait. This edition of the EdT is to my nose the richest, most well-balanced of the Misses that I've smelled. Just the right amount of animal, subdued florals, and the right oakmoss punch in the base.

    MissDior1980sEdT.jpg
    Awww, that was Mummy Beaverhausen's signature all throughout my childhood, before she went over to the darkside and Chanel No 5.

    I've a couple of bottles in my collection, it is exceptionally good and woefully underrated IMO.

    It shall be tomorrow's SotD.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    The photobucket trophy at work. Diorissimo came in today.
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  30. #30
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    Default Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    The photobucketbomber trophy at work. Diorissimo came in today.
    Oh good. Then you can play along with the home version when Bavard gets to it.

    Warning: it's the biggest blast of muguet your nose will ever experience.




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