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  1. #61
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Comparing red vs black box Tribute.
    I find black box better composed. And it lasts longer.
    The smoky vetiver-incense is more prominent.

    - - - Updated - - -

    No 19 Parfum:

    I love No 19. I had tried EDT earlier and loved it. This Parfum seems a bit more dense and preferable.
    This is what I wrote about it a few months ago and I still believe it to be true

    "Starts green and while it has the dreaded galbanum, I enjoy it. Very well blended.
    The green gives way to florals - soft and beautiful.
    I think unless one is a frag head one does not realize how rare and beautiful this soft ethereal floral accord is. Not many can do it.
    I think this is better than the big brother No. 5
    A big thumbs up."

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    Godet:

    I was not aware of this line till this pass. I am really grateful to mixerscent for introducing this to me. I really like this house. A shame they are gone.
    I find them better than Chanel/Guerlain.
    Their Cuir de Russie is a much better leather than Chanel. Florals in Chanel's version (and most otherRussiona leather like Elsha) are too overpowering and the leather is lost. Not so with Godet. The balance is just right here.
    But what is weird is that their Chypre is closer to Chanel's CdR than Coty's Chypre. Don't get me wrong. It is a nice Chypre but has that CdR floral-leather accord.
    And then there is Petit Fleure Bleue. For some reason (most likely the name) made me compare this to L'heure Bleue. And I like Godet much better when I whiffed the vial. I will give it a full wear tomorrow.

    - - - Updated - - -

    sucks that vintage threads dont get bumped
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  2. #62
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Parfum Satori Iris Homme:

    A very nice iris. Much better iris than that Dior Homme line.
    The Iris is supported by citrus up top and dry spices.
    For someone looking for Masculine Iris, this is a must try.
    Bumping it for you ..... is this a vintage? I thought it's a 2016 niche release.
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  3. #63
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    Bumping it for you ..... is this a vintage? I thought it's a 2016 niche release.
    This one is not vintage.
    And thanks for the bump. My posts were just getting buried.
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  4. #64
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    Bumping it for you ..... is this a vintage? I thought it's a 2016 niche release.
    It's not Vintage. Mixerscent decided to add the Satori at last minute, to this already oversized pass.

    The Elie Saab's are also Contemporary.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Comparing red vs black box Tribute.
    I find black box better composed. And it lasts longer.
    The smoky vetiver-incense is more prominent.

    I have to agree the composition of the Black Box was a major eyeroller for me.

    - - - Updated - - -

    No 19 Parfum:

    I love No 19. I had tried EDT earlier and loved it. This Parfum seems a bit more dense and preferable.
    This is what I wrote about it a few months ago and I still believe it to be true

    "Starts green and while it has the dreaded galbanum, I enjoy it. Very well blended.
    The green gives way to florals - soft and beautiful.
    I think unless one is a frag head one does not realize how rare and beautiful this soft ethereal floral accord is. Not many can do it.
    I think this is better than the big brother No. 5
    A big thumbs up."

    I was wondering how you would like this. I've been a No.5 lover for years. Particularly Vintage No. 19 is just plain gorgeous. Gender-less and superior to the No.5 to my nose.

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    Godet:

    I was not aware of this line till this pass. I am really grateful to mixerscent for introducing this to me. I really like this house. A shame they are gone.
    I find them better than Chanel/Guerlain.
    Their Cuir de Russie is a much better leather than Chanel. Florals in Chanel's version (and most otherRussiona leather like Elsha) are too overpowering and the leather is lost. Not so with Godet. The balance is just right here.
    But what is weird is that their Chypre is closer to Chanel's CdR than Coty's Chypre. Don't get me wrong. It is a nice Chypre but has that CdR floral-leather accord.
    And then there is Petit Fleure Bleue. For some reason (most likely the name) made me compare this to L'heure Bleue. And I like Godet much better when I whiffed the vial. I will give it a full wear tomorrow.

    - - - Updated - - -

    sucks that vintage threads dont get bumped
    I agree, we need more bumping for this thread as the pass is quite large and really needs more time to savour.
    Last edited by purecaramel; 4th December 2017 at 11:34 PM.
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  5. #65
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Emeraude:
    I find it very similar to Shalimar. The dirty vanilla, the musk , the amber.
    But not as good.
    And that makes sense cause this came 4 years before shalimar. Guerlain copied and perfected this Coty's oriental just like Mitsouko was a perfected version of Chypre.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Homage Attar:
    Homage is in same vein as the cheapo attars that you can buy from a local attar shop.
    The rose accord is thin and screechy and dominates the top for a while. This accord is very common in cheap attars and I dislike it a lot. This is not the typical rose oud accord. I think it is the "Amber" (blue amber) that is main offender.
    With time this mellows out and becomes bearable.
    Scrubber
    Last edited by epapsiou; 5th December 2017 at 03:25 PM.
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  6. #66

    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Agree very much, epapsiou, I've always thought Guerlain's talent lies in refining existing ideas rather than innovation. I like Emeraude, love Shalimar.

    I'm still looking into the thread bumping issue in this forum; am going to have to move it along to Grant. It may take some time but I haven't forgotten!

  7. #67
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Emeraude:
    I find it very similar to Shalimar. The dirty vanilla, the musk , the amber.
    But not as good.
    And that makes sense cause this came 4 years before shalimar. Guerlain copied and perfected this Coty's oriental just like Mitsouko was a perfected version of Chypre.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Homage Attar:
    Homage is in same vein as the cheapo attars that you can buy from a local attar shop.
    The rose accord is thin and screechy and dominates the top for a while. This accord is very common in cheap attars and I dislike it a lot. This is not the typical rose oud accord. I think it is the "Amber" (blue amber) that is main offender.
    With time this mellows out and becomes bearable.
    Scrubber
    So interesting, since Homage has all these rapturous reviews, right? This makes me feel bit better about never having been able to sample it.

  8. #68
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    So interesting, since Homage has all these rapturous reviews, right? This makes me feel bit better about never having been able to sample it.
    I found the Homage rather dull. Particularly beside the Rose TRO which I found rapturous.
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  9. #69
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    So interesting, since Homage has all these rapturous reviews, right? This makes me feel bit better about never having been able to sample it.
    Homage is not worth pining for.
    Tribute, I can see. I don't like it but I can understand. Not with homage.

    - - - Updated - - -

    TRO is good shit. Can't use that. Every Amouage attar will fail against that
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  10. #70
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    I too was deeply underwhelmed by Homage when I tested it. Too light, too bright, too soapy. I've read that it suffered from reformulation, so I suppose it all depends which version you're smelling. Plus of course Amouage is known for somewhat erratic batch variation.

    Rose TRO is completely unknown to me. I must give it a whirl, if I can ever find any!

  11. #71
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    I am nearing a month mark with this pass. And still not done.Will try to finish it next week so Bavard can spend christmas with it

    - - - Updated - - -

    Dia Man Khanjar:

    I have a sample of Dia man. I did not like it. It is thin and meh. Could not understand why people like it.
    Then I tried Khanjar version. And now I know.
    It is a masterpiece. Starts a lot like R de Capucci but then veers off to more floral, spicy path. It is very vintage (70-80s) in character and performance ( those who know me will know that this is a compliment).
    A shame they reformulated it to green vetiver-cumin mess.
    Over time it converges to the vintage version but the first hour is not good at all.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Nombre Noir:

    Everyone knows the history behind Nombre Noir so I won't bore you here. One thing though, it is supposed to be very fragile. Top notes suffer a lot unless stored perfectly. That was one of the reason why it was discontinued. I had the chance to sample it in pristine condition from a bavard sample(ty bavard). The one in this pass suffers from slight top note loss. It is fine after 10 minutes. I just want people in this pass who have not tried Nombre Noir to know this.
    And this is my review from earlier this year
    A great rose, patch and something else. Could not figure out what it was till I saw Bavard's review. Carnations from Ho Hang Club.
    I can see why people love Nombre Noir. It is a good fragrance to own but not at the current astronomical prices.
    - - - Updated - - -

    Vol de Nuit:

    Typical Guerlain. Moss, vanilla, animalic in that Guerlinade base. Did not like it when I first started. Now I am beginning to enjoy this Guerlain signature

    - - - Updated - - -

    Legendary Fragrance Iris Gris:

    Meh. I have not tried original but if this is a good representation then I have no desire to try the original.
    Iris+Jolly Rancher+musk
    Last edited by epapsiou; 11th December 2017 at 01:29 PM.
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  12. #72
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Conclusion:

    Thank you mixerscent for sharing your rare goodies with us. Most of the stuff here is so rare that I will never be able to sample them ever.
    Thank you Purecaramel for organizing this pass

    Concluding remarks:

    I never warmed up to Amouage's current offering (except XXV). I assumed that since they are from Oman , their expertise lies with attars and not modern perfumery. The hype of Tribute made this a plausible assumption.
    And I was dead wrong. After trying the vintage versions of Epic,Lyric and Dia I respect their modern perfume. It is the attars that were very disappointing. I am glad they stopped making them. They should stick to fragrances and fix the reformulation mess. Bring back the original Epic, Lyric, Dia and they will go right in front of my list of houses.

    Godet was a shocker. I am surprised it is not talked about much here. Probably cause it is truly gone. I will put them right besides Patou and Guerlain and Chanel. Maybe better than all these. Can't be sure as I have not tried a lot from them but these 3 were exceptional

    Elie Saab is a nice new player. Sticking to simple themes and doing it well. A good grilled cheese sandwich.

    Pass is on its way to Bavard.
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  13. #73
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    This sample set may take a year to do it's rounds. I'm quite enjoying every person's impressions.
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  14. #74
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    I've started with (1) Godet Cuir de Russie (Russian Leather), a 1921 release, and seemingly an inspiration (the inspiration?) for Chanel's 1924 Cuir de Russie.

    This Godet is a treat. My strongest impression from the pass so far is that Epapsiou liked the Godets.

    Godet Cuir de Russie is vindicating his recommendation. It's a strong, old-fashioned smelling, realistic, thick, shiny, animalic leather. It's hard for modern leathers to compete with this combination of smoothness and richness.

    Update: This evolves more than I would have imagined, turning, somewhat, on skin, losing the sheen and becoming more gamy rough instead of gamy smooth.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (2) Legendary Fragrances Iris Gris - This is not in the Basenotes directory. It does smell like an iris fragrance, which is always nice. It also has some complex, fruity sweetness.

    The two I've tried so far are loaded with character. I imagine they were considered edgy in their own time; wearable, but bold.

    Iris Gris has a bit of a gourmand side, and a bit of a floral side. It's fairly strong, as was Godet Cuir de Russie.

    I'd be happy to have big bottles of both of these. They smell artful and historical, yet wearable and pleasant.

    As Iris Gris develops, it reminds me of 4160 Tuesdays Rome 1963 and Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille, with a kind of peppery leather smell, which I think comes, in part, from patchouli.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (3) Elli Saab Essence No. 6 Vetiver - This is a nice citrus vetiver. The opening few seconds are especially impressive. It quickly transitions, losing some of the magic from the opening. It's still nice, but prolonging the opening into the heart of the fragrance would make it one of my favorites, and likely my favorite vetiver.

    Update: The base is nice, and this has been on par with any vetiver I've tried. I'm going to keep an eye on this house.

    Update: The next morning, some of the Elie Saab Vetiver was still emanating from the shirt I had been wearing, and it has totally won me over. How long until this line hits the discounters? Right now, it's not sold in the US at all, that I can find, except second hand on eBay, and still at retail pricing of about $200 a bottle.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (4) Coty Émeraude (1921) - This smells like a 1920s release, in the realm of things like L'Heure Bleue, from 1912, and Shalimar, from 1925. This is the kind of perfume I expect to grow on me as I get to know it, as L'Heure Bleue did. This has a dark, woodsy, powdery vanilla smell, a real treat for smelling so historical, deep, and complex, yet smooth and wearable.

    Update: This develops just as I'd hoped, getting better and better, similar to L'Heure Bleue and Shalimar. It's nice and strong hours later from some small dabs on one hand.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (5) Ormonde Jayne Black Gold - This is an interesting fragrance, a better fit for a woman, to my nose. The first four I'd tried were instant favorites that I'd love to own, whereas this is one I'm happy to sample but not own. I'm happy to smell this kind of smell around, but it's really not for me as something to wear.

    I see Epapsiou has compared it to Jubilation XXV, and I do smell this connection, which is an interesting observation I don't think I would have remembered on my own. This is definitely a more feminine fragrance, to my way of thinking, a fruity floral, but backed with dark woods (and resins?) somewhat similar to Jubilation XXV.

    Deep into the wearing, I was getting some great moments in the projection from this. It was achingly familiar, I wanted to place what it was reminding me of and I couldn't. Smelled up close, it was its old self from earlier in the day, but in the projection from the base, it had an additional dimension that was intriguing.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by sciencegirl View Post
    Amouage tribute attars:

    Black box: Smoky (cigarette..like, crazy smoky), rose, with incense and salty skin dry down.
    Wearing (6) Tribute Attar from the black box is making me smell like a cigarette smoker, but an especially good smelling one, and I like it.

    I see Epapsiou is in the backlash against the hype. I'm more likely to contribute to the hype. It's not perfect, but it's quite interesting. It is something I would be interested in wearing from time to time. I would feel confident of making a positive impression wearing this. It's strong and memorable. It's an exciting sampling experience. It is indeed crazy smoky, in a good way. It's borderline overboard, but it's just the right side of tasteful. An enthusiastic thumbs up for this nuclear-strength, smoky, tobacco bomb.
    Last edited by Bavard; 25th December 2017 at 02:26 PM.

  15. #75
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    "An enthusiastic thumbs up for this nuclear-strength, smoky, tobacco bomb."

    I really like this statement. It captures, very well , my own impression.
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  16. #76
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by purecaramel View Post
    Amouage Dia Man Vintage

    I found that I had to lean in to this perfume. At once it seems a Whisper and Harmony, easy to dismiss. Leaning in, I found a space that was pristine, static. Movement in this perfume is precise Tick Tock around this pristine static.

    I have met this specifically in a few other perfumes Chanel Bois Noir, Hendley Jade, Lumiere by Aftel.

    Then again I speak nonsense and Dia is an incredible Amouage, that is unique, in that it is quiet, amongst all the pomp and circumstance. There is a Grandness in it's truthfulness.

    It smells wonderful on the skin.
    I'm trying (7) Dia Man, and it's subtle for me. I have to lean in. As nice as it is, it's just not quite for me. I think it might work better on a woman. I like it, but it has a note that gives me the feeling that I've been there, done that - a smell I know from childhood that I'm not excited to wear. I sampled another version of this a little over a year ago, and had similar impressions:

    "After an excitingly promising open, this transitions into a smell that's just ok, and not something I would want to project, like an overly fragranced lotion."

    - - - Updated - - -

    (8) Parfum Satori Iris Homme - I'm not familiar with this house. I've just applied this, a fair amount, and it seems ok, light citrus. Not too harsh. Light iris. A little cherry sweet. Ambery woods. Mostly iris. A little challenging. It smells like woods and roots. A little like carrots.
    Last edited by Bavard; 25th December 2017 at 02:26 PM.

  17. #77
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Look at you go Bavard. This is the fastest I have seen you go through a pass. Christmas vacation helps I guess
    Beauty needs no morality or righteousness.
    It, like nature, does not give a shit
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  18. #78
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    I'm trying (9) Guerlain Habit Rouge Eau de Cologne. I have this, in the same bottle as Mixerscent, and wearing a dab from his sample, I have confirmed they smell the same. I agree that it's worthy of inclusion in this fantastic pass. Citrus, oak moss, and vanilla are notes I pick up in this one.

    (10) Chanel No. 19 Parfum (vintage) - This is another one I have. I sometimes feel like no two bottles of this one smell quite the same. I know from experience that this develops and changes over a wearing. On my skin, it takes a while for it to peak. It's almost too feminine powdery for me at the start, but it turns more unisex leathery.

    To my nose, the marketing of these two is accurate, or at least persuasive, at least in the openings: Habit Rouge does smell masculine to me and No. 19 does smell feminine. Habit Rouge is calm and relaxing. No. 19 is louder and more intriguing, a better option for being noticed.

    Update: No. 19 gets better and better, although fainter, during a wearing, and becomes more and more of a rose fragrance.
    Last edited by Bavard; 26th December 2017 at 08:33 PM.

  19. #79
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'm trying (9) Guerlain Habit Rouge Eau de Cologne. I have this, in the same bottle as Mixerscent, and wearing a dab from his sample, I have confirmed they smell the same. I agree that it's worthy of inclusion in this fantastic pass. Citrus, oak moss, and vanilla are notes I pick up in this one.

    (10) Chanel No. 19 Parfum (vintage) - This is another one I have. I sometimes feel like no two bottles of this one smell quite the same. I know from experience that this develops and changes over a wearing. On my skin, it takes a while for it to peak. It's almost too feminine powdery for me at the start, but it turns more unisex leathery.

    To my nose, the marketing of these two is accurate, or at least persuasive, at least in the openings: Habit Rouge does smell masculine to me and No. 19 does smell feminine. Habit Rouge is calm and relaxing. No. 19 is louder and more intriguing, a better option for being noticed.
    Interesting comparison and perspective on these.

    Bavard, I'm really enjoying your read.
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    (11) Amouage Gold Man - This is nice, for my tastes, but then I'm a fan of aldehydic florals: Dior Dior, Guerlain Vega, Guerlain Liu, Chanel No. 5, Chanel No. 22, Givenchy L'Interdit. It's arguably validating to have "Man" in the name. It is the only fragrance of this style that I can think of that's marketed to men, which is interesting. A thumbs up from me. My eight-year-old is only giving this one a thumbs sideways, but I don't think she's learned to appreciate aldehydes yet.

    It does get a bit animalic in the base, in a nice way, and the frankincense comes across nicely as lightly sweet.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (12) Amouage Epic Man - This is a strong, exciting fragrance. It reminds me slightly of Opium Pour Homme edp.

    I see Purecaramel has found a likeness to Moschino Pour Homme, and I wouldn't disagree with that.

    In my experience, Amouage is one of the most interesting houses on the market. This Epic Man doesn't quite resonate with me in a way that makes me want to have a bottle, but it's enjoyable. The Tribute Attar is by far the stand out for me of the four Amouages I've tried so far in this pass. From their regular line, I've liked Gold Man a little more than Epic Man and Dia Man. I feel like Epic Man could leave mixed impressions. It seems especially strong, and edgy, flirty with pungency.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (13) Adghal by Majid Muzaffar Iterji - An oud fragrance. I'm not a big fan of oud, so this is mostly lost on me. It's on the harsh side to my nose.

    Quote Originally Posted by purecaramel View Post
    Interji Adghal ( Adghal Majid Muzaffar Interji )

    Hmm! The approach here is about understatement and balance. This uses a blended Oud so it is layered richly with varnishes, camphour, hay and only whispers of barnyard and cheese. There is a medicinal rubber start that may be a light Synthetic boost. The Rose concentrates on the Lower registers of the note and almost acts as a billowing Canvas for the Oud.
    Purecaramel describes this one well. I agree that it smells like a combination of real and synthetic oud. If I wanted to get into oud, this is one I might give a few wearings. It has interesting moments during the development.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (14) Elie Saab Essence No. 7 - Neroli - This is another good one from this line. I'm not as excited as I was by the Vetiver, but I do like it. Whereas I arguably have this ground covered with Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale, the vetiver seemed to resonate with me in a way that makes me want a bottle, and this is good enough to make me want to try the whole line of Elie Saab Essences. This one would be nice to have in a 10-ml decant.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (15) Chanel Cuir de Russie Parfum (1950s) - This is my second time sampling vintage Chanel Cuir de Russie, and it's one of my favorites, a leathery floral with a dash of animalics to add some intrigue, and more of a unisex vibe than I get in the current version. This would be one of my most worn if I could get my hands on a few hundred milliliters.
    Last edited by Bavard; 27th December 2017 at 04:47 PM.

  21. #81
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    (11) Amouage Gold Man - This is nice, for my tastes, but then I'm a fan of aldehydic florals: Dior Dior, Guerlain Vega, Guerlain Liu, Chanel No. 5, Chanel No. 22, Givenchy L'Interdit. It's arguably validating to have "Man" in the name. It is the only fragrance of this style that I can think of that's marketed to men, which is interesting. A thumbs up from me. My eight-year-old is only giving this one a thumbs sideways, but I don't think she's learned to appreciate aldehydes yet.

    It does get a bit animalic in the base, in a nice way, and the frankincense comes across nicely as lightly sweet.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (12) Amouage Epic Man - This is a strong, exciting fragrance. It reminds me slightly of Opium Pour Homme edp.

    I see Purecaramel has found a likeness to Moschino Pour Homme, and I wouldn't disagree with that.

    In my experience, Amouage is one of the most interesting houses on the market. This Epic Man doesn't quite resonate with me in a way that makes me want to have a bottle, but it's enjoyable. The Tribute Attar is by far the stand out for me of the four Amouages I've tried so far in this pass. From their regular line, I've liked Gold Man a little more than Epic Man and Dia Man. I feel like Epic Man could leave mixed impressions. It seems especially strong, and edgy, flirty with pungency.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (13) Adghal by Majid Muzaffar Iterji - An oud fragrance. I'm not a big fan of oud, so this is mostly lost on me. It's on the harsh side to my nose.



    Purecaramel describes this one well. I agree that it smells like a combination of real and synthetic oud. If I wanted to get into oud, this is one I might give a few wearings. It has interesting moments during the development.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (14) Elie Saab Essence No. 7 - Neroli - This is another good one from this line. I'm not as excited as I was by the Vetiver, but I do like it. Whereas I arguably have this ground covered with Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale, the vetiver seemed to resonate with me in a way that makes me want a bottle, and this is good enough to make me want to try the whole line of Elie Saab Essences. This one would be nice to have in a 10-ml decant.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (15) Chanel Cuir de Russie Parfum (1950s) - This is my second time sampling vintage Chanel Cuir de Russie, and it's one of my favorites, a leathery floral with a dash of animalics to add some intrigue, and more of a unisex vibe than I get in the current version. This would be one of my most worn if I could get my hands on a few hundred milliliters.
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    (16) Guerlain Vol de Nuit Parfum (vintage) - I had sampled what I think was an early 2000s edt of Vol de Nuit, and I've tried the edt tester at the Guerlain counter at Bergdorf Goodman a couple times this year.

    I was a big fan of the early 2000s edt. The current edt in the shop smells too light in the cloud of perfume in the air for me to get any strong sense of it, other than thinking it's light.

    This parfum version of Vol de Nuit isn't hitting the spot as much as I thought it might. The amplified note in this version isn't my favorite part of mix. It's nice, but it's not working for me as well as some others I've tried in this pass.

    Update: As it develops, the vintage parfum starts to get really nice. I was disappointed in the opening, but the mid is fantastic.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (17) Amouage Lyric Man - This one was a shocker for me the first time I sampled it a couple years ago. This older version seems better, and I'm more open to this kind of feminine shampoo smell than I was then. I would give it a neutral now - it develops ok, and it's not too different from the Stella McCartney florals I recently sampled from Sephora and didn't mind.

    My eight-year-old has chimed in with a vote of confidence for the base of this.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (18) Amouage Homage Attar (red box) - This smells like a typical, classic masculine. I'm disappointed that I can't place exactly what classic men's fragrance or fragrances it's reminding me of - it's so familiar it's bugging me. Reading reviews didn't help, people are describing it as an oud fragrance, which I don't get at all. To me, it's a shaving cream and/or barber shop type classic, and well done.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (19) Amouage Tribute Attar (red box) - This is just about the same / the same as the version of Tribute Attar that came in a black box. I'm wearing this one a few days later, and it seems slightly different, but it could be my imagination. If I were shopping, I think I might want to go for the black box version. This red box version is giving me an association with an ash tray that I wasn't getting from the black box version. Both versions make me smell like a cigarette smoker, but the black box version gave me impressions of rich, smoky tobacco, without the ash tray image popping into my head. Otherwise they're similar, or the same, and I like them nearly equally, with just a slight preference for the black box version.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (20) Shiseido Nombre Noir - This is a beauty. It's reminding me of Hang Hang Club, as it did the last time I had a sample, and today, the rose note is reminding me of the rose in Chanel No. 19. Nombre Noir is well put together and restrained in way that would make me confident to wear it anywhere, a woody rose and carnation.

    The best part of this is the opening and early stages. The base doesn't have the same magic, to my nose, especially by vintage standards - an unspectacular laundry type smell. I find Ho Hang Club and No. 19 more interesting in the base. This is a little like Ho Hang Club in the base, but lighter and with less conviction.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (21) Godet Chypre - This starts nice, but the best of it seems over within a few minutes. It gets quiet and a little rough. It's fleeting, too quickly developing. During the opening few minutes, it's an interesting chypre, but it settles into a quiet, soapy, woody note, with vanilla and incense, that's just ok; however, the base that's established in the second phase of this is nice and long lasting, and makes a nice skin scent in its own right.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (22) Godet Petite Fleur Bleue - I'm definitely detecting a house style from these Godets, an alternative to Guerlain. The Guerlain options (L'Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Shalimar) are a little better executed, I think, based on my sampling, but these Godets are interesting and fun to wear. The wood note in this lacks polish or refinement, to my nose.

    - - - Updated - - -

    (23) Amouage Rose TRO Attar - I gather TRO stands for Turkish rose otto, and that rose otto is just another term for the oil extracted from rose petals, equivalent to rose oil or, indeed, rose attar, meaning this perfume has an especially redundant name, along the lines of Rose Turkish Rose Oil Oil, and why not with such a strong rose smell. Turkish rose oil smells delicious, so this is easy to like. From the Amouage attars, I think Tribute from the black box is my favorite. As lovely as this rose attar smells, there are other rose perfumes that could scratch a similar itch, such as Annick Goutal Rose Absolue, perhaps. This rose attar smells familiar from one of more of the samples in the Retro Roses sample pass, where I sampled the Goutal.

    The comment from Purecaramel that this may have a cintronella note resonates. Maybe that's a natural part of the rose oil, but I do smell a hint of cintronella oil.

    - - - Updated - - -

    That wraps up my sampling of this pass. It has been brilliant. I love a top 5 list.

    Quote Originally Posted by sciencegirl View Post
    Ooo, it’s so hard to choose. Let me try...
    (1) Chanel 19 - complex, rich, with nice moss and iris. So well blended.
    (2) Vol de Nuit - I’m a sucker for classic Guerlain and am happy with the current formulations. This vintage felt so cohesive and deep, I guess because of the magic ingredients. The moss is super.
    (3) Amouage Gold man - it was so complex, classy, and it evolved beautifully
    (4) Ormonde Jayne black gold - another complex beauty...it was one of those ones where I didn’t even want to try to discern notes, I just wanted to bask in it.
    (5) Godet Chypre - I really liked that fizzy opening!

    Thank you for asking, Purecaramel! I’m curious - which were your top 5?
    Quote Originally Posted by purecaramel View Post
    (1) Chanel Cuir de Russie well, the animalics and the composition is just Epic.
    (2) Amouage Rose TRO This Rose had me feel like I was falling backwards into Paradise. Eye Roller.
    (3) Vol de Nuit. Contemporary in this is one of my faves. In Vintage it's the Moss that puts this into Masterpiece territory pour moi.
    (4) OJ Black Gold The Orange Zabaglione grabs me and it's movement I find Symphonic.
    (5) Elie Saab Vetiver I really admire the Polish and elegance of this.
    (6) Satori Iris Homme leaning into this reveals a masterful balance and angular architecture. Art.

    These are the ones, that if I was flush, would snap up first.
    Mine includes (1) Elie Saab Vetiver, (2) Chanel Cuir de Russie, and (3) Tribute Attar. Habit Rouge doesn't feel like it counts in my case because I have the exact same bottle and wear it fairly often, so for the final two spots I'll go for (4) Chanel No. 19 and (5) Shiseido Nombre Noir. Vol de Nuit and Gold Man are honorable mentions.
    Last edited by Bavard; 31st December 2017 at 07:05 PM.

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    The pass has arrived safe & sound, and considering the entire state has been shut down for the past two days due to the blizzard, arrived at a good time for sampling. I took a quick peek at the goods and am astounded by the generosity of mixerscent for providing all of this. Anyone who willingly puts that much Nombre Noir in a vial and sends to off into the world is a saint...in the fragrance world at least. Not to mention Nombre Noir plus all of these other rarities. And anyone towards the end of the pass who is concerned that there might not be enough left, let me assure you that there is plenty to go around. There are incredibly generous pours.

    mixerscent - thank you. Sincerely, thank you.

    I haven't properly tested anything yet (although I have tried some of these before) but I did find the Khanjar version of Dia Man and take a quick sniff. Dia is a personal favorite of mine and I have both the older plastic cap (2010, I believe) and modern stuff (2015) to compare to. At a quick glance, the older Khanjar juice definitely smells different and is clearly a lighter color. This will be one of the first things I test.

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Your notes on Nombre Noir and Dia Man should be interesting with the previous experience for comparison. The Nombre Noir was the same, as far as I could remember. Do you have any drops left from the other sample?

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    (15) Chanel Cuir de Russie Parfum (1950s) - This is my second time sampling vintage Chanel Cuir de Russie, and it's one of my favorites, a leathery floral with a dash of animalics to add some intrigue, and more of a unisex vibe than I get in the current version. This would be one of my most worn if I could get my hands on a few hundred milliliters.
    Oh, man, that vintage CdR! I spend way too many of my waking hours searching for the perfect (and affordable) bottle.

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Your notes on Nombre Noir and Dia Man should be interesting with the previous experience for comparison. The Nombre Noir was the same, as far as I could remember. Do you have any drops left from the other sample?
    The spray sample of Nombre Noir is bone dry, but I kept it so it can be opened and sniffed. It has been excessively parafilmed and teflon-taped to preserve what vapor may be left. I'll dig it out when it's Nombre Noir time for sure.
    ________
    ________
    ________

    I have started to dive it, first with a few from Amouage. In general, it's a house I enjoy.

    Rose TRO (background/rambling in first paragraph, sniffing notes in second)

    This is the first item I ever added to the "wishlist" in my wardrobe. In fact I recall it being the first action of any type I took after creating my BN account, although it had been on my radar for a few years prior. Naturally, I was very excited to try it in this pass. I am a fan of (almost) all things rose, and this had "grail" potential written all over it. What got me into this hobby back in 2004/5 was being given a trio of fragrances, one of which was a vintage splash of Aramis 900 (other two were Fahrenheit and Caron 3rd Man/Troiseme Homme) which changed my outlook on something I previously associated Nautica, CK One, Axe etc. with - wearing fragrance. One of my first purchases was a vintage bottle of No.88, so essentially masculine roses and Fahrenheit are what started this whole thing for me. I believe I'll always love, or at least have a soft spot for rose notes. Turkish Rose Otto cannot disappoint, right?

    While it takes time before I'm ready to call something grail, I think Rose TRO absolutely beautiful, stunning, crystal clear, rich rose scent that is among the best I've ever smelled. As ClaireV notes in her review, this is a chemical-free steam distillation of rose, as opposed to absolutes and CO2. Like distilling agarwood, it is an expensive and low yield process, relative to the amount of what goes in. To me it smells like a mix of bright red, dark red, deep pink, green, and white. It's a very multifaceted experience, at various times being sharp and citric (others mentioned a citronella vibe, which I can see) and then being plush, rounded, soft, smooth/creamy, and deep. Throughout the life on skin, something green and stemmy makes an occasional appearance, which adds depth and a snappy sharpness. Overall I found it more round than sharp.

    This is a very strong product, both on skin and in the air. It perfumed my entire house for over 24 hours after opening the package (very minor leakage - not a huge crisis, more on that later) and just taking the top off the vial left some on my fingertips, which perfumed me until I showered. I went to a relatives house for dinner and after being inside for 30 seconds or so, everyone there was asking what perfume my girlfriend had on...which is not a surprise I guess, as there are probably not many bearded white guys in rural S.New England wearing rose oils, not that I've encountered at least. I don't know a ton about how rose otto wears, but as previously mentioned I'd be surprised if the pure thing would be this big and long lasting. It's entirely possible there is some kind of well-disguised fixative blended in here for the rose to latch onto, although I could care less in terms of enjoyment. This stuff smells amazing. I'm strongly considering a tola.

    As for comparisons with other scents, what came to mind (from memory) were Malle's Une Rose and Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose. Clean, simple, big red rose. It's a strong start, I really like this a lot.

    ***Housekeeping:

    Regarding the leakage - the glass threading on the vial chipped a bit, which I believe was the culprit. This may have been due to pressures exerted by the cap from the outdoor/indoor temperature flux, as the rubber stopper inside the cap on a few vials that I looked at was partially sucked into the vial itself. Anyone who cans/jars their own veggies is familiar with the physics of this. It was about 7F / -14C here when I got the parcel from my mailbox. Either way, there is still an ample amount for further testing and I'd expect there to be leftovers when this pass wraps up. 15-20 additional people could each get a couple of wearings from this. I'm using plastic pipettes to transfer to skin, and a pencil tip sized drop was plenty for full evaluation - again, this is a pure distillation and very potent stuff. I can't imagine anymore than 0.05-0.10ml leaked out, as no paper was wet, just some discoloration on the printed label.

    As far as the chipped glass, I carefully wiped away the few chips that were present on the rim of the vial and inside the cap, but I'd advise future participants to use caution after skin application so ensure there aren't any microshards in the liquid itself. I'm 99% sure there isn't (checked with bright flashlight) but better safe than sorry. ~~~Best I can tell, all other vials are 100% intact~~~

    Epic Man 2009-2010 formula

    I have tried Epic previously and have an official spray vial from 2013/14 to compare it to. Prior to testing this, Epic has been a favorite from this house. The opening of Epic Man is among my favorite of any modern fragrance...if hard pressed to rank, it would easily fall within a top 20. For the most part I find this 2009-2010 bottling fairly similar to the 2013/2014 that I have, except for a few differences.

    Opens with a dry spice salvo dominated by pink pepper, cardamom, and cumin, sharp balsamic/coniferous woods, resinous unlit frankincense, and touch of a medicinal oud reconstruction - I think it's absolutely brilliant. There's a lot going on but it's not overly busy, I love the big hit of that signature Amouage frankincense, it works really well here. Overall I perceive it as a very dry fragrance. It's one that without fail whisks my imagination to somewhere exotic, a dry desert-like climate. Jubilation XXV is often lauded as their "opulent" masculine, but I think Epic out-opulents JXXV. At least I find it more exciting. Both this and JXXV have brilliant openings but a base that I find less than desirable, although I'd take the base of Epic over JXXV any day.

    The opening of Epic goes on for a good while (relative to most scents), for maybe 30 minutes or so, during which time I am utterly captivated. Both the old and new are fairly similar up until this point, with the older being a little more rounded and quieter, while the newer feels like the woods are a little more "spiky" and high-pitched - could simply be attributed to age. I'm also comparing a spray (new) to a dab/dropper (older from mixerscent), so please keep that in mind. I've surely experienced scents differently with a change in application technique/amount.

    Where I find they diverge a bit more is in the heart and base. The older version starts to allow a mellow, non-iodine-y saffron to show through and has a waxy, slightly smoky leather note that mimics the effect of castoreum, a castoreum replacer perhaps. The newer version lacks the saffron and the leather is much more intensely smoky, like a dry, cracked, well-worn brown leather jacket that has been to a bonfire or two, plus there is a faint floral element like rose or geranium which I can't really pick up in the older one. Again, the older feels rounder, but it could just be age/maceration/etc. Despite those differences, they're still pretty similar.

    The base of the newer version is where I find the biggest differences. It feels much sharper, and much louder. The woods become splintery dry and borderline astringent. Neither version is tricking my nose into thinking it is smelling an all-natural fragrance or mukhallat, but the newer Epic smells more synthetic-forward to me. The newer also lasted much longer on my skin, however due to the greater volume of spray application, I don't believe I can definitively nor objectively say one lasts longer than the other. Dabbing nearly always involved less material and muted performance.
    _______

    ***A quick general note on comparing "versions". It is something I enjoy doing and do often, however it surely has its limitations - note that "versions" is in quotations. One person smelling what is essentially the same scent side-by-side is hardly evidence of a reform. Aside from the fact that fragrances slowly alter over time (at least I believe they do, but that's another thread entirely) it's easy to smell differences, real or imaginary, when you're looking for them. Add to that previous bias of having read others state the differences they've detected and what you're left with is hardly a 100% objective comparison. I do my best to be objective, but I won't pretend there are subjective elements at play as well. Just my 2 cents on the matter

    Also, not every one of my posts/sniffing notes will be tl;dr like this one. I've had an unusually large amount of free time this weekend, and both Rose TRO and Epic are fragrances I was either really excited about or previously familiar with.
    Last edited by IsoESuperman; 7th January 2018 at 10:31 PM. Reason: inevitable typos

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Are you going to transfer the Rose Attar to a different vial?

    The same fragrance can smell different on my left wrist versus my right wrist, so I agree there are limitations to comparisons, which means you need to be smelling extra carefully, which I know you always do.

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Habit Rouge (vintage Eau de Cologne)

    First and foremost, I've tried pretty much every version of Habit Rouge (non-flankers) and I can honestly say that I do not enjoy wearing any of them. I certainly do have the utmost respect for what Habit Rouge is, especially in vintage EdC format, but I think the most straightforward thing to say is that I do not like Habit Rouge. Feel free to dock some points from my vintage hound membership card.

    This opens like almost all other versions, with citrus and powder. What sets this apart is the dose of moss, which greets me almost immediately. The vint. EdC is perhaps the best formulation for note separation, in that it's easier to pick this or that out from the rest. Citrus (lemon and orange, mostly), vanilla, florals (a lightly clovey carnation mostly, and rose), woods (sandal and rosewood), oakmoss, and a soft leather note showing up later on.

    It all blends well and creates a distinctive scent which IMO is pretty much peerless. Classic Guerlain and a masculine pillar. The embodiment of French dandyism, and it couldn't be further from the type of thing I like to wear. It has my attention, admiration, and deserves all the accolades and love that it gets. Despite all that, I didn't like it the first time I tried it and I don't like it now. Maybe someday I'll crave this style, but right now that is hard to imagine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Are you going to transfer the Rose Attar to a different vial?
    I'm considering it. I don't have any screw top vials at the moment, but need to put in an order for decants anyway so I could pick some up. It seems small enough that PTFE tape and parafilm would do the trick to mend the current container, but it would have to be done each time it moves on to the next person. Will contact mixer and see what his thoughts are.

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    The embodiment of French dandyism, and it couldn't be further from the type of thing I like to wear.
    That's hard to reconcile.

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    That's hard to reconcile.
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    It, like nature, does not give a shit
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