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  1. #91
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Lyric Man 2008-2010 formula

    Another that I have an official carded sample from 2013/14 to compare to. Again, I find differences. My newer Lyric I would describe as a rose-forward masculine with spice, woods, and very minor resinous facets. In the modern stuff, I find a very prominent angelica note in the opening that carries into the heart. I quite like angelica (most of the time) and it is well integrated here.

    This angelica is absent from the sample pass version, I honestly can't smell it at all. It is also less woody (although neither are very woody). The 2008/10 version also seems to have a bit of a soapy feel which wasn't in my spray sample, and overall is more smooth/less-textured, and seems more rose-forward without the counterbalance of the angelica. All in all, it comes across as less complex. It still smells good, but I prefer the complexity of the 2013/14 stuff I have.

    All in all, they both smell nice but neither are my favorite from Amouage and despite being a lover of rose, neither would make a top 10 rose list. I cannot pin down what type of synth-wood is trying to be represented, but it smells like they were going for a mix of cedar and sandalwood.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    That's hard to reconcile.
    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    He is in denial
    I guess it's not that I don't like French dandy scents, I kind of consider Chanel Pour Monsieur to be one and love that, but Habit Rouge just doesn't align with my tastes at all...despite having notes of and being similar to other things I do like.
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

  2. #92
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Lyric Man is not one of my favorite Amouages or one of my favorite rose fragrances.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  3. #93
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Notes copy and pasted from the Chanuary thread.

    Cuir de Russie - Chanel (vintage 1950's parfum)

    Wearing Cuir de Russie today, vintage parfum circa 1950's. One of the generous items from the mixerscent sample pass, the first time I'm trying it in parfum form vintage or otherwise. Wearing it alongside another generous gift, a decant of Cuir de Russie (2014 EdT) from the Les Exclusifs line from the Canadian camel.

    There are certainly some differences, as one would expect. The vintage parfum is much more leathery, richer, less floral, and seems to lack the mellow aldehydic opening that the newer EdT does. Both are stunning in their own way. The parfum seems a little more unisex although I'd happily wear either. While I don't outright smell any animalics in the vintage parfum, I can imagine there some being there, contributing to the depth that it has.

    Either way - Cuir de Russie...now this is perfumery.

    No.19 - Chanel

    I liked this a lot in EdT form, but the parfum is on another level. It's really an amazing green scent. I think any male who avoids this because it's a Chanel named No.X is doing themselves a disservice - anyone could wear this, and it's one of the most approachable and streamlined green scents I've tried. I've had a hectic and entirely unrelaxing weekend so far, but it's hard to be salty when wearing this. I can't stop smelling my arm.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Lyric Man is not one of my favorite Amouages or one of my favorite rose fragrances.
    I'd say we're on the same page there.
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

  4. #94
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Chanel does good work. Even among the beauties in this pass, I thought Cuir de Russie and No. 19 were standouts.
    Some Favorites
    1. Antaeus/Antaeus Sport
    2. Chanel for Men/Chanel Pour Monsieur/Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree
    3. Chanel Bois Noir/Egoiste/Egoiste Concentree/Platinum Egoiste
    4. Fahrenheit/Fahrenheit Summer
    5. Patou Pour Homme/Patou Pour Homme Prive
    6. Habit Rouge edc/Habit Rouge edt
    7. Givenchy Gentleman (1974)
    8. Balenciaga Ho Hang Club
    9. Moschino Pour Homme
    10. Dior Homme/Dior Homme Intense
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  5. #95
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Tribute Attar

    Both versions in the pass, plus whatever version I was kindly sent by another Basenoter last year (who is in the pass, he can comment on which version if he wishes) all smell relatively the same after an hour. There are differences before that, mentioned at the end of the post.

    My first exposure to the much lauded Amouage Attars (which are mostly mukhallats and not attars, from what I understand) was with a blind buy of Badr Al Badour which sounded most up my alley - rose, oud, ambergris. It is, and was a fantastic buy. I thought, "If this is this good, I can only imagine how good Tribute must be." So hopes were high. When I first tried it, I didn't like it. I still don't love it. I suppose it's well made, but really not my style despite being full of notes I love.

    The rose I enjoy, the incense/tobacco/whatever it is, I don't. It smells like a lit menthol cigarette, which I find repulsive. I enjoyed Camel Filters very much when I smoked for a few years in my early 20's, but menthols are vile. Maybe it's the combo of patchouli and some type of incense, but this opens with a strongly mentholated smokey vibe that I really, really dislike.

    It later calms down to reveal some parched, cracked brown leather jacket type leather, which I like. There is a touch of woodiness, which I can see as being cedar, that pairs well with the rose, frank, leather, and now calmer smoke. From application to the 60 minute mark, this is a strong thumbs down. From 90 minutes on, it's a neutral to a mild thumbs up. I like nearly every listed note, but I only smell a handful and those that I do smell aren't exactly coming off a top-notch. As far as my tastes go, I'd never hype this.

    -- First version/Red Box --

    Much stronger menthol smoke, smells slapped together/disjointed and really rough for a while. My least favorite.

    -- Black Box Version --

    Less strong menthol smoke, maybe slightly less leathery in the dry down. Seems more finely tuned, as far as note proportioning. My second favorite version, and second least favorite version (aka the middle).

    -- Version I had prior to pass --

    Smells the most well-balanced and perhaps slightly less smoky than the other two. There is a more noticeable non-menthol unlit tobacco note in the drydown. I also find something mildly sweet in the opening and heart, which helps to round and balance things even further. My favorite of the three I've tried.
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

  6. #96
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Best menthol cigarette perfume ever, for my money - if there were any to buy.
    Some Favorites
    1. Antaeus/Antaeus Sport
    2. Chanel for Men/Chanel Pour Monsieur/Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree
    3. Chanel Bois Noir/Egoiste/Egoiste Concentree/Platinum Egoiste
    4. Fahrenheit/Fahrenheit Summer
    5. Patou Pour Homme/Patou Pour Homme Prive
    6. Habit Rouge edc/Habit Rouge edt
    7. Givenchy Gentleman (1974)
    8. Balenciaga Ho Hang Club
    9. Moschino Pour Homme
    10. Dior Homme/Dior Homme Intense
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  7. #97
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Best menthol cigarette perfume ever, for my money
    Are there others?


    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    It smells like a lit menthol cigarette, which I find repulsive. I enjoyed Camel Filters very much when I smoked for a few years in my early 20's, but menthols are vile.
    Interesting. If people are smoking and you're nearby, can you distinguish between the smell of a mentholated cigarette and a non-mentholated one?

    I've never noticed that I can.

  8. #98
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    Talking Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Are there others?




    Interesting. If people are smoking and you're nearby, can you distinguish between the smell of a mentholated cigarette and a non-mentholated one?

    I've never noticed that I can.
    When I was a smoker,when in the States, I always enjoyed Camels, however Salem's were de rigueur and totally my fave.

    For a while I smoked Kent and used to be able to nose the difference in tobaccos. A European friend told me that Kents were used as a medium of exchange in Romania.
    Last edited by purecaramel; 18th January 2018 at 02:01 AM.
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  9. #99
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    I'm back from a much needed vacation and will dive back in to the plethora of mixersamples. Fresh off a plane and not interested in thoughtful consideration of what I'm smelling, but I did dab on a tiny bit of the lauded Homage Attar - another lauded Amouage attar/mukhallat that I find simply okay. It's more floral than I had imagined. Full notes tomorrow, also keen on trying the "cloned" version of Iris Gris.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Interesting. If people are smoking and you're nearby, can you distinguish between the smell of a mentholated cigarette and a non-mentholated one?
    In a heartbeat, I find them easy to differentiate. I've begrudgingly bummed menthols while drinking/drunk in college and that probably helped with the second-hand ID skills. I never really liked smoking cigarettes, although Camels were sometimes delightful, but I really, really liked the social aspect of smoking outside bars. Fun times.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Homage Attar

    Jasmine, laundry musk, citrus, geranium (maybe slightly rosey), a touch of lemony frankincense, something like lily-of-the-valley...in other words, not at all what I expected. I assume the batch variation thing is real, and really drastic. I was not expecting it to be this floral at all. Well, I was expecting rose/oud/incense, so perhaps rose-floral, but this is more like a nicely done modern fresh high-end designer white floral.

    It's not at all unpleasant, but sharing the spotlight for most talked about Amouage attar with Tribute, I expected to encounter something...more engaging and different, something opulent. I was not expecting orange blossom and white musk. Surely smells okay, but I'd never spring for it as something to wear.

    Elie Saab Neroli (first from the house I've tried)

    I mainly smelled notes of jasmine, orange blossom, and white musk. Pleasant, the grape jasmine-y aspect more floral than I'd like in a fresh citrus floral. Easy to wear, very smooth and polished, well-blended notes, but nothing mind-blowing. Oh, and where's the neroli?? Yes, orange blossom and neroli are both extracted from citrus blossoms, but neroli to me is less sweet and less floral with a character all its own. All I get from this one is orange blossom.


    Elie Saab Vetiver

    I'm a big fan of vetiver and will always go out of my way to try new vetiver-centric fragrances. There does seem to be a limited range of what perfumers can do with the theme, but it almost always at least smells good, even if it doesn't do much for me. I can't really put my finger on why I like this one so much, but I think it's excellent. It is smooth, fresh, and clean, much in the way Dior's Privée Vétiver is all of those things, but this manages to smell unique. They both share a citrus top too. There is something mildly spicy lingering underneath that works well with everything else. I prefer the Dior, but if I even found this for a good price I'd probably snatch it up. Like Neroli, the blending seems skillfully done and it shares a polished quality. Very nice.
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

  10. #100
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Welcome back IsoE.
    And now if someone can fix the bump issue in vintage forum. Really annoying.
    I guess time to bump this issue thread in the bug forum
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  11. #101
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Bumping this!!
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    Currently wearing: Ultima II by Ultima II

  12. #102
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Bam Bam boopiitty bap hip.
    Scarcity is an illusion. Unlearn it.
    Currently wearing: Ultima II by Ultima II

  13. #103
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Back on land, back home, and back to the mixer-scent's. Also back into a heaping pile of shit to do, so some of these after today might be pretty brief:

    Gold Man - Amouage (vintage khanjar bottle)

    One of the gold-standards in powdery luxurious fragrances. Gold is a proper name I suppose. I can see the point of view of those who dismiss this as pure baby powder and feminine, as well as the camp who think this is the best thing that Amouage has ever made. Floral (mostly white, hint of rose), powdery, a hint of something dirty, and some resins and musk later on. I don't really perceive it as woody at all, despite the listed sandalwood and cedar. Gold is certainly not in line with modern perfumery at all, it's also not something I'd wear on a regular basis, but I have had a small decant for a few years and when I am at home (alone - SWMBO hates this) and want luxurious powder, this hits the spot.

    Compared the the modern stuff, this is a little more nuanced and balanced. The newer stuff, which I just have a dab vial, is a little more full on powder with less interesting accompaniment, which is what makes the older stuff legendary. The newer still more than scratches the powder itch, though.


    Black Gold - Ormonde Jayne

    A pleasant and well-rounded woody oriental. Highly wearable, smells good, but doesn't really excite me. It strikes me as sharing aspects with Kilian's Incense Oud, which I think smells excellent despite being fairly linear - they're both woody incense scents with that "woody rose" note that I don't really think smells like rose per se (also prominent in Rose 31) but I still think smells really good. The Kilian is more dense and less nuanced, but I still find it more appealing overall in terms of the Guy Robert smell test. The Black Gold has a notable polished texture, which I can get behind. I don't think either scent smells of oud, not the typical synth blends nor the real thing...although the latter kind of goes without saying I suppose. This also has a very brief but very nice citrus salvo in the opening, which Incense Oud lacks, and I also find a prominent dry black peppery note as it starts to dry (think Honour Man).

    Overall, it smells quite good, but not good enough to get my heart racing or covet more. I found the performance a bit lacking.


    Petite Fleur Bleue - Godet (also known as Odeon)

    To date, this is the oldest perfume I've put my nose on. This is juice from the 1920's, which in and of itself makes my day. Almost 100 years old - how cool is that? To boot, it still smells amazing. I knew there were a few really old Godet's in this pass, and I was honestly skeptical about them still smelling decent, especially considering the materials used back then (i.e. many naturals). I've smelled my share of stuff from the 70's and 80's that has gone off, but I am a firm believer that if cared for correctly, many perfumes can stand the test of time. This reinforced my adherance to that theory. Anyway, I said I'd be brief.

    It really is a blue floral. Somewhere between love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena) and something like heliotrope with a touch of lilac. Beautiful, beautiful floral aroma. How it is so well preserved after all this time is beyond me. I'm also smelling a touch of animalics (musk and a mellowed out civet, perhaps) all resting on a totally smoothed out sandalwood-like base. As it dried the animalic component becomes a bit stronger but never overbearing, it just pairs so well with everything else that is going on. There is also something a touch green involved, like that snappy florists "flower stem green" that one finds here and there. Overall the quality of everything smells top-shelf. The blending, the materials, all of it. It's clearly a feminine scent, but I'm loving having it on...I mean perfume from the 20's....so cool!

    A big thumbs up, even if I try to keep my vintage hound bias in check. Very grateful to be able to smell something rare like this. It's like going back in time, way before I was born. I'm sniffing my hand and wondering who the original owner was. Wondering if they're still alive, wondering if a husband bought it for a wife, a daughter, a mistress...maybe a brothel madame bought it for herself. Was she pretty? Did this make her feel pretty regardless? Imaginary perfume time capsule - thanks mixerscent!
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

  14. #104
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Read with interest, IsoESuperman. Gold Man was my pick from those three. The Ormonde Jayne lasted a long time for me, and got interesting in the base. I liked it. You sound fonder of Petite Fleur Bleue than I was. I didn't get too excited by the Godets.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  15. #105
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Iris Homme - Satori

    In the opening I smell lemon and vetiver. Bracing, fresh, clean, and a little earthy (but not at all dirty). It sure smells good, but I like the drydown even more. A few minutes in a violet like iris note appears (the soft floral iris type, not rooty orris), it's restrained and quite pretty. The drydown is excellent. The iris softens and does eventually start to display rooty aspects, there are leftovers from the lemon top which smell citric and herbal, almost tea-like, and there is a very mellow and smoothed out sandalwood note. It's all very calm and restrained, very much what I imagine a Japanese perfume aesthetic to be all about, though I'm surely no expert on that front.

    The latest stages before it dies are woody and smell of black tea (dry, still in the bag) with a touch of lemon. I found the iris was essentially gone after a 4-5 hours. Despite it's quiet presence on skin, I found it lasted a good while even from a small application of a few drops. I like this quite a bit, I found it very calming to wear during a hectic week and I think it's up there with my favorites from the pass so far. An easy thumbs up. Interested to try more from this little discussed house.

    Adghal - Majid Muzaffar Itarji

    First time hearing of this house. From the name I'm guessing it's Swedish? Well, them Swedes sure know how to make a rose/oud...who knew?

    This is quite beautiful, and smells like real taifi rose and real oud, a politely barny variety (I'm guessing Burmese or Cambodi?), polite by my standards at least. There not much else going on other than the rose and oud, with the exception of a hint of sweetness. I don't perceive the sweetness as vanillic nor ambery, it's not at all cloying or sticky, but it kind of weaves in and out of the rose and oud, giving the overall composition a lift and some breathing room. In terms of more commonly known fragrances, it's in the realm of Dusita's Oudh Infini and Kilian's "actual" oud scent - Pearl Oud. I find this easier to wear than either of those. Surely less complex than either, and most definitely less plush and luxuriating than the Dusita. In terms of personal preference, I like Adghal better than both of them. It's less dense and more inviting.

    Excellent performance, beautiful composition, and in a world of boring rose/ouds (a genre I still enjoy), this is one of the better I've smelled.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Read with interest, IsoESuperman. Gold Man was my pick from those three. The Ormonde Jayne lasted a long time for me, and got interesting in the base. I liked it. You sound fonder of Petite Fleur Bleue than I was. I didn't get too excited by the Godets.
    The Ormonde Jayne is certainly nice, thoughtfully put together, structurally proportional - probably the easiest to wear out of the bunch. It just didn't tickle me. After I posted I looked it up, quite pricey too. For some reason I had it in my head that Ormonde Jayne was a cheaper (read: less expensive than average) niche brand out of the UK, priced like Lush...Black Gold is $586 on their website. Yikes! It's the exception, though. Many of theirs are around $150. Not Lush prices, but not outrageous.

    I was wearing the Godet as I posted. Much later on in the wear, I was less impressed than I was for the first 3 hours. I still love the opening and the woody mid, the quality of the ingredients grabbed me. I do admit that I'm likely swayed because I thought it was just awesome to wear something almost 100 years old. I recall others having a hard time smelling the Godet Chypre, this is one of the next on my list.

    And speaking of the list, I believe I have only 4-5 more to go. For small housekeeping updates, the package will be going to cacio next as opposed to Cook.bot. We discussed off-forum.
    Last edited by IsoESuperman; 22nd February 2018 at 10:47 PM. Reason: quiet/quite
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

  16. #106
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    I did like Black gold. Like XXV but different. The price difference between black gold and similar fragrance is too much for me to make it FBW.
    Itarji is nice. But then again I have too many of them Swedish concoctions.
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  17. #107
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Iris Gris - Legendary Fragrances (not Jacques Fath)

    As a huge fan of nearly all things iris and orris-centric fragrances, I was obviously excited to try this. I know it's not the original but I've no expectation that I'll ever smell that original in my lifetime. Iris Gris, the original Jacques Fath release from 1946 – ultra rare and bordering on extinct, is something of a perfumery legend. Many life-long perfume nuts consider it the benchmark in iris and it's one of the most popular things at the Osmothèque. This is a recreation/reproduction/etc. which is supposed to be very much in the ballpark. I did my best to temper my expectations to sniff it.

    Well, it smells beautiful and is well-executed iris perfume, but I wasn’t blown away. What’s weirder is that I had big time déjà vu…and déjà vu from a 2017 release, nonetheless. More on that later.

    This is a very pretty and easy to wear iris scent. Buttery/velvety smooth and luxurious. It is a milky and slightly sweet presentation of orris, almost like if one imagines orris butter tea with a tiny pinch cane sugar and splash of 2% milk. That’s not to say that it smells of milk, but the lactic quality of the orris is highlighted. Orris butter is the star and in the opening it is a bit doughy, barely carroty, and as mentioned, it’s milky. I don’t smell peach or apricot, though there is that light airy sweetness I mentioned, so maybe there is some fruity aldehyde or something making that happen. Maybe that's what is doing the lactic thing to the orris too...C-14/peach lactone?

    Regarding that déjà vu, this smells somewhat similar to the new Imaginary Authors scent, O’Unknown – a fragrance based around orris butter and black tea…probably where my “orris butter tea” analogy came from now that I think about it. Honestly, to me, saying they smell somewhat similar is kind of an understatement. I have them both on right now I think they’re 90% identical. My description of Iris Gris is the previous paragraph is basically what I’d say about the 2017 IA release.

    O’Unknown is basically LF Iris Gris with the Imaginade or Authorade or whatever you want to call their house signature accord in the base, plus a bit more of a black tea note. Truth be told, I like O’Unknown a little better.

    I understand at this point in time, very few people have probably smelled both fragrances, as one is a very (outrageously?) expensive and fairly rare reproduction, and the other is a new American indie release. But I’d love to hear from anyone else who has tried them both…especially if you think they’re nothing alike.

    Even if you don’t think they’re 90% similar, the fact that O’Unknown smells at least like a nod to Iris Gris is practically undeniable. Interestingly enough, I’ve heard no talk about this being the case. None from IA press materials during the release, none from the fragrance community. For all I know, Josh Meyer has never even smelled Iris Gris and had no intention of doing so. That would be hilarious and amazing if that were the case. Then again, claiming your new perfume smells like something on a mile-high pedestal to die-hard fragrance aficionados is potentially a recipe for disaster. Maybe Josh was just waiting to see if anyone would notice. Well Josh, I noticed. And I like yours better.


    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    I did like Black gold. Like XXV but different. The price difference between black gold and similar fragrance is too much for me to make it FBW.
    Itarji is nice. But then again I have too many of them Swedish concoctions.
    Interesting, JXXV didn't even cross my mind. The Itarji is really good stuff. Unfortunately I think it's sold out and was a one-off production. I've already got my fair share of rose/oud perfumes anyway.
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

  18. #108
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Truth be told, I like O’Unknown a little better.
    Wow. Now I'm tempted to order a sample of the I.A. so I can have it in hand by the time this pass gets to me.

  19. #109
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Wow.
    My thoughts exactly. The last thing I was expecting Iris Gris to smell like was an Imaginary Authors release. Granted, this is just me. I may be the the only person in this camp...and perhaps LF Iris Gris is not at all like the original Fath. Either way, I think O'Unknown smells terribly similar to the Legendary version.
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Chypre - Godet

    Aptly named stuff, it is very much a classic and minimalistic chypre. A touch soapy, warm labdanum, mossy, a little dirty (barely), and chypre-y. Not striking me as having unusually high quality materials or beauty, as did Petit Fleur Bleue, but it still smells nice. It is quite smooth and easier to wear than some of the hissy/pissy green chypres from the 70’s. If there used to be citrus top notes here, I don’t smell them anymore. Not surprising, considering it’s almost 100 year old juice.

    The chypre structure was often used as building blocks and often the labdanum ends up as a background matrix instead of a detectable note. Here however I find it as obvious as the oakmoss is. It's neat to be able to pick it up in this stripped down presentation. I'll probably never smell the original Coty Chypre, but I'm glad to have the opportunity to get my nose on this instead.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Vol de Nuit - Guerlain (vintage parfum - 60's?)

    Vol de Nuit is what I think of when people mention "classic Guerlinade". That warm, vanillic, softly powdery (iris, heliotrope, both?), lightly spiced, balsamic, oriental signature.

    L'Heure Bleue (heavier on heliotrope) and Shalimar (...everyone knows Shalimar) also exemplify it IMO, but Vol de Nuit is what comes to mind for me. Probably because it is the only one of those I own and wear. I'm lucky to have an early 1990's parfum concentration spray, the little 8ml ones. The notes listed here on BN appear to better represent the modern EdT formula, which I have smelled but only at Guerlain counters. The vintage parfum from my wardrobe and from the pass do not seem to contain the citrus salvo up top that the EdT has.

    What I get off the bat with the vintage parfum is a unisex green floral accord, presumably galbanum/narcissus/oakmoss, overlaid on Guerlinade. This is how it begins and it ends pretty much the same way - just attenuate the green floral part and amplify the Guerlinade. I don't say things like this often, but vintage Vol de Nuit parfum is a timeless milestone in the art of perfumery. It's not something I want to wear all the time, or even often really, but every time I do I can't help but end up with a shit-eating grin on my face and half shaking/half nodding my head thinking "...wow". It's so finely tuned and focused without being austere or stuffy. Vol de Nuit is engaging, a living breathing bonafide perfume - the kind of perfume they don't really make anymore. I wouldn't disagree with anyone who calls it anachronistic, but I couldn't abide the notion that it is boring or sloppy.

    I wore mine and the mixersample side by side. The only difference I get between them is mine seems to have a more prominent green floral accord, of which also sticks around for a bit longer. Both are beautiful, both are Vol de Nuit clear as day.

    If I ever end up in the poor house and have to sell my possessions, this will be tied up in a red bandana on the end of my hobo stick. I don't wear it much now, I doubt I'd wear it much then. But I sure as shit will always treasure having it around.
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Nicely done Iso.
    Though I am sure that that bandanna at the end of the hobo sick will also contain Or Black.
    Last edited by epapsiou; 7th March 2018 at 11:25 PM.
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    I also appreciate Vol de Nuit. I agree that it's a kind of centerpiece Guerlain - Habit Rouge is a little like it, L'Heure Bleue is a little like it, Shalimar is a little like it.

    For Vol de Nuit edt vs parfum - I might like the overall ride from the edt more, although the parfum becomes really nice in the base.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Nicely done Iso.
    Though I am sure that that bandanna at the end of the hobo sick will also contain Or Black.
    Thanks. And you are correct

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I also appreciate Vol de Nuit. I agree that it's a kind of centerpiece Guerlain - Habit Rouge is a little like it, L'Heure Bleue is a little like it, Shalimar is a little like it.

    For Vol de Nuit edt vs parfum - I might like the overall ride from the edt more, although the parfum becomes really nice in the base.
    Agreed, definitely centerpiece material. I also agree that it shares similarities with Habit Rouge and interestingly enough, I still strongly dislike HR in spite of that. I'd like to give the EdT a full wearing, perhaps side-by-side with the vintage parfum. My experience with the EdT is limited to the Guerlain corner of the Bergdorf perfume shrine.
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    If I ever end up in the poor house and have to sell my possessions, this will be tied up in a red bandana on the end of my hobo stick. I don't wear it much now, I doubt I'd wear it much then. But I sure as shit will always treasure having it around.
    ^ ^ This is going into my permanent chapbook of "The Best of Basenotes."

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Cuir de Russie - Godet

    Classical oldschoolary in a bottle with a surprisingly modern twist, or at least what smells like it. Opens similar to an old-school Russian leather chypre flanker of Fahrenheit. Brown, well-worn, slightly smoky leather with a petrolish violet leaf impression. For the first 5 minutes or so, the hissy violet leaf note appears to gain in volume. On the spectrum of Russian leathers, this is somewhere in the middle in terms of intensity/ease of wearing. Not really too animalic or smoky or anything, falls into a goldilocks zone of mossy leather chypres. I get the feeling there were probably some top notes that have been attenuated significantly over the past 90 years. Along with the leather impression there are some dark florals, all laid on a chypresque base.

    I liked it well enough, but it didn't move me. I found the Fahrenheit connection interesting, considering it is the Diors' senior by ~60 or so years.

    Emeraude - Coty (parfum, 1950's)

    The godmother of Shalimar, the original vanillic oriental, so it is told. It came out a few years earlier and was surprising similar, adding to the notion that Guerlain is excellent at perfecting previously efforts in perfumery.

    I've previously tried vintage Emeraude when a friend sent a decant of EdT concentration from the 70's or 60's, greenish juice. This is dark brown parfum that's a little older. The problem with having almost 700 decants/sample is that sometimes they go missing - unfortunately my EdT is nowhere to be found for comparison. From memory, the parfum is much heavier and less overtly vanillic. It has a gauzy, almost waxy texture to it. Definitely a classic Shalimar-type scent, but somehow Shalimar is also not something I have a sample of to compare to. It actually shares some similarities to Vol de Nuit to me, and to an extent Habit Rouge. I guess best to say it smells like Guerlinade - powdery, custardy, not-too-sweet vanillic amber. I don't get anything too floral here. There's something smoky about it, like wood smoke and musk. It takes on a quality I can only describe as "rubbery" as it dries...jasmine indoles? I guess someone might call it dirty, but it's quite tame compared to some other vintage animalics.

    I don't recall being crazy about the EdT and I can't say I love this either, but it keeps my interest and from what I remember, I'd say I prefer this to the EdT. Surely a well-balanced perfume and one I'd enjoy to smell on someone else. The powder is not too powdery, the vanilla not too sweet. Just not my style.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    ^ ^ This is going into my permanent chapbook of "The Best of Basenotes."
    Glad you liked it Another to file under "scented drifters". I guess I should make reviews out of some of these and actually contribute to the directory a bit.

    ***Housekeeping***

    The final scent is Nombre Noir, the legendary Shiseido and the first perfume Serge Lutens created commercially. I took notes but just need to type them up and post, then the package will finally be on its way to cacio.
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Bump.
    Someone fix vintage forum bumping
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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Nombre Noir - Shiseido

    Nombre Noir is charming. I find it downright pretty. I don’t think it is off-the-charts amazing or innovated in terms of structure, but I do think it is a skillfully balanced and pleasing fragrance. In the opening I mostly detect a mossy dark rose/patchouli mix. Considering the year it was released (1981), the restraint of all three main notes is admirable. In fact I’d even call it delicate. It has plenty of substance but is never close to heavy or overbearing.

    After about an hour, I start to pick up on an airy, lightly sweetened tannic red wine vibe. Presumably from the rose and woods, maybe the light clove-spiced carnation too. A sandalwood/rosewood base lightly (again, that word 'light') supports everything in a complimentary fashion. Unlike my vintage-loving cohort, I do not find much of a connection to Ho Hang Club. Then again, I don't find a HHC/Antaeus commonality either.

    Nombre Noir seems to be famous for two reasons. Reason one, and probably the lesser, is that it is the first commercial perfume that Serge Lutens helped breathe life into, as far as I know. The second, and likely the reason it now goes for $2000/15ml is that Luca Turin basically creamed his pants over Nombre Noir…is what some lesser, cruder, truly classless person might say. He fawned, prices rose. It's all your fault, Luca.

    I like Nombre Noir perfectly well. If I were able to find a 10ml decant for say $40, I’d be all over it. But in this dark rose chypre genre of yesterday, I’ll take L’Arte di Gucci any day. If I were to break it down into a single, do-no-justice sentence, I’d say, “A woodier, softer, lighter, less rosey L’Arte di Gucci”. I was able to smell this once before, and this will likely be the last time I do. It’s been real Nombre Noir, I won't forget our time together but I’ll miss a good cup of coffee before I miss you.
    ____

    And that's (finally) a wrap. I'll bundle everything up tomorrow and (finally) ship it off to cacio on Friday or Saturday. Thanks again mixerscent and purecaramel! And thanks for bumping epapsiou. Poor neglected glitchy vintage forum.
    Currently wearing: Cologne 352 by Ex Nihilo

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    The second, and likely the reason it now goes for $2000/15ml is that Luca Turin basically creamed his pants over Nombre Noir…is what some lesser, cruder, truly classless person might say. He fawned, prices rose. It's all your fault, Luca.
    And yet, in a possible validation of the wisdom of the hive mind, the golden glow of the Cloak of Turin could not be stretched to encompass Beyond Paradise, which can be had for <$40 an ounce. Saints be praised.

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Nombre Noir - Shiseido

    Nombre Noir is charming. I find it downright pretty. I don’t think it is off-the-charts amazing or innovated in terms of structure, but I do think it is a skillfully balanced and pleasing fragrance. In the opening I mostly detect a mossy dark rose/patchouli mix. Considering the year it was released (1981), the restraint of all three main notes is admirable. In fact I’d even call it delicate. It has plenty of substance but is never close to heavy or overbearing.

    After about an hour, I start to pick up on an airy, lightly sweetened tannic red wine vibe. Presumably from the rose and woods, maybe the light clove-spiced carnation too. A sandalwood/rosewood base lightly (again, that word 'light') supports everything in a complimentary fashion. Unlike my vintage-loving cohort, I do not find much of a connection to Ho Hang Club. Then again, I don't find a HHC/Antaeus commonality either.

    Nombre Noir seems to be famous for two reasons. Reason one, and probably the lesser, is that it is the first commercial perfume that Serge Lutens helped breathe life into, as far as I know. The second, and likely the reason it now goes for $2000/15ml is that Luca Turin basically creamed his pants over Nombre Noir…is what some lesser, cruder, truly classless person might say. He fawned, prices rose. It's all your fault, Luca.

    I like Nombre Noir perfectly well. If I were able to find a 10ml decant for say $40, I’d be all over it. But in this dark rose chypre genre of yesterday, I’ll take L’Arte di Gucci any day. If I were to break it down into a single, do-no-justice sentence, I’d say, “A woodier, softer, lighter, less rosey L’Arte di Gucci”. I was able to smell this once before, and this will likely be the last time I do. It’s been real Nombre Noir, I won't forget our time together but I’ll miss a good cup of coffee before I miss you.
    ____

    And that's (finally) a wrap. I'll bundle everything up tomorrow and (finally) ship it off to cacio on Friday or Saturday. Thanks again mixerscent and purecaramel! And thanks for bumping epapsiou. Poor neglected glitchy vintage forum.
    Your reviews have been utterly enlightening and hilarious--a wonderful combo!
    Currently wearing: Jubilation 25 by Amouage

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    Default Re: Mixerscent Attar and deep Vintage Sample Pass

    Bump
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    Currently wearing: Ultima II by Ultima II

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