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  1. #1
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    Default Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    I just got an email about this - had no idea anything new was in the works. Anyone try it? I really like Feu Secret and have been wearing it a lot. At first I thought it was a little safe for him, but the more I wore it, the more it clicked how good it was. Still safe, but really interesting and fun to wear. Sandalwood wasn't listed as a note in Few Secret but it seems to compose a chunk of the base and I really like that part. Unsettled is described as a "creamy sandalwood scent..." so that immediately grabbed my attention. Anyway, this isn't a Feu Secret thread, so here is some info about Unsettled:

    NOTES:

    Bergamot :: China Black Tea :: Clary Sage :: Pineapple :: New Caledonian Sandalwood :: Labdanum :: Vanilla :: Ocean Breezes

    Little blurb about it from the website:

    Unsettled is a fresh, creamy sandalwood scent with a delicious tea and pineapple accord that recalls a beach holiday. It includes an absolute of China black tea and sustainably harvested sandalwood from New Caledonia.

    Click here for the link to his page.

    If anyone has tried this (deadidol, ClaireV, or the other folks who usually are on top on indie things) I would love to hear some first impressions.
    Currently wearing: Ho Hang by Balenciaga

  2. #2

    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Thanks for the info!
    I have found the paradox, that if you love until it hurts, there can be no more hurt, only more love.

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    Currently wearing: Homme de Grès by Grès

  3. #3

    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Sounds great. Thanks for the heads up! Seems like there is a 9ml sprayer option.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by checkmate View Post
    Thanks for the info!
    Ditto
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  5. #5
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Some very good releases previously from Bruno Fazzolari. I will certainly give this one a try. Expecting it to be interesting at the very least.
    Current Winter Favorites:

    1. House of Matriarch - Blackbird
    2. Brückner - Aoud 1
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    6. by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
    7. Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 - Mortal Skin
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  6. #6
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    ........... I really like Feu Secret and have been wearing it a lot. At first I thought it was a little safe for him, but the more I wore it, the more it clicked how good it was. Still safe, but really interesting and fun to wear. Sandalwood wasn't listed as a note in Few Secret but it seems to compose a chunk of the base and I really like that part. Unsettled is described as a "creamy sandalwood scent..."......
    Feu Secret is warm, relaxed, affable, clear and balanced. The turmeric really gives an unusual softness and life to woods. Perfumers should be all over that ingredient. Hell of a fragrance. The high quality edible and buoyant feeling iris, the whole fragrance balanced perfectly between melancholy and freshness. Hope the new fragrance gives some of that same style. I like this Fazzolari guy a lot.
    Last edited by pluran; 31st August 2017 at 11:38 AM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    I got the same email from them. I think it was created to celebrate some anniversary of a gallery. The New Caledonian sandalwood is most likely the Australian variety - round and creamy. I'm a bit concerned how the "ocean breezy" note would work. I hope it doesn't come out synthetic.
    Writing about the art of smelling good at ScentBound.co.

    "If a fragrance is too perfect or too pretty, it becomes boring. Fragrances – like people – have to have some kind of imperfection." - Frederic Malle
    Currently wearing: Sycomore (new) by Chanel

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentBound View Post
    I got the same email from them. I think it was created to celebrate some anniversary of a gallery. The New Caledonian sandalwood is most likely the Australian variety - round and creamy. I'm a bit concerned how the "ocean breezy" note would work. I hope it doesn't come out synthetic.
    I thought Fazzolari championed the synthetic elements of modern perfumery,to a remarkable effect (even if too much for me), and that's what made him subversive?
    Currently wearing: Ruh by Pekji

  9. #9
    Basenotes Institution rynegne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Typically, these are two different varieties of sandalwood. New Caledonian sandalwood isn't very sharp and has a sort of a heavy in the basenotes with a woody-syrupy thing going on while Australian is more aromatic and top heavy with a sharp woody/fresh aesthetic.

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentBound View Post
    I got the same email from them. I think it was created to celebrate some anniversary of a gallery. The New Caledonian sandalwood is most likely the Australian variety - round and creamy. I'm a bit concerned how the "ocean breezy" note would work. I hope it doesn't come out synthetic.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    I'm one of the strange ones who really likes Room 237 (it's the costus!), so I'll try anything he makes.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Feu Secret is warm, relaxed, affable, clear and balanced. The turmeric really gives an unusual softness and life to woods. Perfumers should be all over that ingredient. Hell of a fragrance. The high quality edible and buoyant feeling iris, the whole fragrance balanced perfectly between melancholy and freshness. Hope the new fragrance gives some of that same style. I like this Fazzolari guy a lot.
    Agreed, regarding both Feu Secret and the man who created it. On the strength of Au Delà Narcisse (des Montagnes), Lampblack, and Feu Secret alone, I consider him one of the most talented modern perfumers. Au Delà Narcisse is blindingly gorgeous, simply stunning, and stunningly simple...but really, no words can accurately express my reverence for it.

    Also interesting to note that Unsettled was, in part, inspired by a 1938 Jean Patou release called Colony which was apparently a pineapple scent. I've never smelled Colony, but I'm hoping it's closer to whatever it smelled like than another certain (in)famous modern pineapple scent. Either way, a creamy sandalwood/black tea/pineapple/labdanum fragrance sounds potentially excellent. Instead of a sample, I might go for the 9ml "chapbook" just because it looks kind of cool and is only $38. I have a feeling I'll end up with a full bottle, though.

    Really looking forward to trying this.
    Currently wearing: Ho Hang by Balenciaga

  12. #12

    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Early impression is that this one's a durable, real sandalwood — buttery, rich, and a tad leathery (not peanutty at all). The pineapple note is very tastefully done, smelling nothing like you-know-what. It doesn't come off quite as complicated as some of his older scents, but it's clear that a lot of thought went into finessing the main materials. The tea note is the trickiest to spot, but it seems to work as a bridge between the pineapple and the sandalwood. If you've been searching for an authentic sandalwood that radiates warmth, this one's definitely worth a look as that's what the scent's all about.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    Agreed, regarding both Feu Secret and the man who created it. On the strength of Au Delà Narcisse (des Montagnes), Lampblack, and Feu Secret alone, I consider him one of the most talented modern perfumers. Au Delà Narcisse is blindingly gorgeous, simply stunning, and stunningly simple...but really, no words can accurately express my reverence for it.

    Also interesting to note that Unsettled was, in part, inspired by a 1938 Jean Patou release called Colony which was apparently a pineapple scent. I've never smelled Colony, but I'm hoping it's closer to whatever it smelled like than another certain (in)famous modern pineapple scent. Either way, a creamy sandalwood/black tea/pineapple/labdanum fragrance sounds potentially excellent. Instead of a sample, I might go for the 9ml "chapbook" just because it looks kind of cool and is only $38. I have a feeling I'll end up with a full bottle, though.

    Really looking forward to trying this.
    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Early impression is that this one's a durable, real sandalwood — buttery, rich, and a tad leathery (not peanutty at all). The pineapple note is very tastefully done, smelling nothing like you-know-what. It doesn't come off quite as complicated as some of his older scents, but it's clear that a lot of thought went into finessing the main materials. The tea note is the trickiest to spot, but it seems to work as a bridge between the pineapple and the sandalwood. If you've been searching for an authentic sandalwood that radiates warmth, this one's definitely worth a look as that's what the scent's all about.
    Thanks for that great info. Looking forward to it. Like those ones that make me happy. Really refreshing.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Early impression is that this one's a durable, real sandalwood — buttery, rich, and a tad leathery (not peanutty at all). The pineapple note is very tastefully done, smelling nothing like you-know-what. It doesn't come off quite as complicated as some of his older scents, but it's clear that a lot of thought went into finessing the main materials. The tea note is the trickiest to spot, but it seems to work as a bridge between the pineapple and the sandalwood. If you've been searching for an authentic sandalwood that radiates warmth, this one's definitely worth a look as that's what the scent's all about.
    Thanks deadidol, always appreciate your early impressions. I felt the same way about Feu Secret when I first smelled it. I was worried it marked a departure into safer, less complicated compositions, but after a dozen or so wearings I realize I just hadn't grasped how nuanced it was. There is a lot of subtle depth hidden in the incredible balance. If Unsettled is in a similar vein, I'll be a happy camper.

    I ordered the 9ml chapbook over the weekend, I'll post my impressions here once it arrives.
    Currently wearing: Ho Hang by Balenciaga

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Order arrived on Monday, I wore it that evening and as my SOTD today. Initial impressions - not my thing and I'm a bit disappointed (mainly due to the mental image I had of what it was going to be) but it is solid for what it is. As with all initial impressions, they are subject to change, sometimes wildly.

    I've myself to blame for assuming it would be something that it is not, but Unsettled is very "un-Bruno" in my opinion, and a marked departure from the rest of his work. [*note - I felt similarly when I first tried Feu Secret, which I now love*] What it is, from what I've been able to ascertain, is a tropical woody scent. The pineapple is not too sweet, but it is very prominent (and I agree with deadidol, it smells nothing like the Creed), as in front & center prominent during the opening and for a while afterwards. There is also a green woody/figgy note that comes across as dry and coconutty, as fig notes sometimes do. New Caledonian sandalwood is listed as a note, and I happen to have a sample of New Caledonian sandalwood oil so I wore that on my other hand while I wore Unsettled. I don't find the NC sandal oil to smell green/figgy, so that must be coming from somewhere else or from a combination of things. What I don't initially smell is labdanum, black tea, nor clary sage - but the pineapple, vanilla, and woody notes are there for sure. It smells of quality but is lacking the depth and evolution I've come to expect from the line.

    It's very well done for what it is, but I came in expecting a more obvious sandalwood and so far (which isn't very far) I'm not getting a lot of sandal until about 8 hours in. Deep into the drydown it is quite obviously there and smells fantastic (and the performance is great although it wears close) but I'm not too keen on waiting that long for the good stuff. It's definitely creamy, but more like Pina Colada creamy than sandalwood creamy. While I've smelled Mysore, Australian, Hawaiian, and New Caledonian, I'm by no means a sandalwood expert so take my assessment with a grain of salt.

    So, Bruno does tropical - I just don't really like tropical. And it is tastefully tropical, I'll give it that. As it pertains to the brief and Nevada Museum of Art exhibition it was originally created for, it makes sense. But for anyone who was hoping for something edgy or original along the lines of Room 237 or Lampblack, or correct and striking like
    Au Delà & AD Narcisse, this might catch you off-guard. Still, worth seeking out for any Fazzolari fans, if for nothing else than to see what a tropical detour smells like.

    I try not to complain when a band only plays stuff from a new album at a show. I'm sure it gets boring to play that one massive hit from your first album over and over and over. Fans booed when Dylan plugged in at Newport Folk Fest in 1965, but he played hundreds of acoustic sets afterwards. For the time being, I'll roll with it and see where it goes.
    Currently wearing: Ho Hang by Balenciaga

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    For the time being, I'll roll with it and see where it goes.
    Well, for someone who DOES like tropical and is always alert to any non-sweet versions of it, your exhaustive analysis made this sound very attractive, IsoE. And a tropical with green/woody/fig tones (which I love about Ninfeo Mio) sounds just the ticket to me.

    I have yet to explore many Fazzolaris and I think this will be at the top of my list when I get to them this winter.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Well, for someone who DOES like tropical and is always alert to any non-sweet versions of it, your exhaustive analysis made this sound very attractive, IsoE. And a tropical with green/woody/fig tones (which I love about Ninfeo Mio) sounds just the ticket to me.

    I have yet to explore many Fazzolaris and I think this will be at the top of my list when I get to them this winter.
    Absolutely recommended sampling to anyone who is looking for something tropical but doesn't want the same old trope, Unsettled nails that. Rest of the line goes without saying Recommended sampling for anyone who wants to try anything but doesn't want the same old!
    Currently wearing: Ho Hang by Balenciaga

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Well, for someone who DOES like tropical and is always alert to any non-sweet versions of it, your exhaustive analysis made this sound very attractive, IsoE. And a tropical with green/woody/fig tones (which I love about Ninfeo Mio) sounds just the ticket to me.

    I have yet to explore many Fazzolaris and I think this will be at the top of my list when I get to them this winter.
    No don't. IsoE is too kind. I think he has never bashed a fragrance in his life. Not even IRL.
    There are better Fazzolaris out there. All the ones we sampled at Twisted Lily were better than Unsettled. There , I said it
    I like this house and I'd rather you start exploring this house with his better creations.
    Last edited by epapsiou; 14th September 2017 at 03:35 AM.
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  19. #19
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    No don't.
    There , I said it
    So bossy! I will if I want to, so nyah-nyah.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Wow. I was hoping it wasn't going to be a genuinely tropical frag, but between the pineapple AND fig (a nemesis-note for me), I'll skip this one. I really loved Au Dela and thought Room 237 was fun. Still need to try the Au Dela Narcisse, but I'm afraid I'll be disappointed since the original version really did it for me.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Wow. I was hoping it wasn't going to be a genuinely tropical frag, but between the pineapple AND fig (a nemesis-note for me), I'll skip this one. I really loved Au Dela and thought Room 237 was fun. Still need to try the Au Dela Narcisse, but I'm afraid I'll be disappointed since the original version really did it for me.
    I wouldn't call it a "genuinely" tropical fragrance, as to me, those word equate to an overly sweet fruity mess - this is not that. My take on it might have been wordier/ramble-ier that deadidol's, but consider his take on it too, which contains no mention of a figgy/coconutty vibe.

    I hope you wouldn't discount trying Unsettled just because my first impression wasn't the best. If you love Au Delà and Room 237, I'd recommend trying the entire line, including this. I bet you'd find more that scratch an itch for you.
    Currently wearing: Ho Hang by Balenciaga

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Bruno Fazzolari - Unsettled (A new one)

    Quote Originally Posted by IsoESuperman View Post
    I wouldn't call it a "genuinely" tropical fragrance, as to me, those word equate to an overly sweet fruity mess - this is not that. My take on it might have been wordier/ramble-ier that deadidol's, but consider his take on it too, which contains no mention of a figgy/coconutty vibe.

    I hope you wouldn't discount trying Unsettled just because my first impression wasn't the best. If you love Au Delà and Room 237, I'd recommend trying the entire line, including this. I bet you'd find more that scratch an itch for you.
    Tigerlily Pefumery in SF carries Fazzolari so I think I'll go have a sniff!

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