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  1. #1
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    Default Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    A lot of artisan perfumery in the U.S. is composed in the perfume oil format, which I have been exploring more lately. It brings up a few questions:

    (1) Why do folks opt for carrier oils over alcohol? Are they easier to blend?

    (2) Is it just me, or do these scents often end up "tinny" or a bit head-achey? Something thin and wanting in the base. Have other people noticed the same thing? And do you think this is a result of poor scents, or the fact it is an oil and not another medium?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    The Bruno Acampora oils that I have tried have been deep, wonderfully rich, diffusive, and decidedly untinny. :-)

    I cannot, however, speak to any other oil-based scents, since these are the only ones I've worn.
    Currently wearing: No. 19 by Chanel

  3. #3

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    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    Probably you'll get more response to this if you post in the DIY forum, but my take is:

    1) in the US, this is probably driven by the desire to appeal to the organic/no chemicals crowd as well as to the aromatherapy crowd. "Essential oils" seems to have an unconscious appeal in that regard.
    2) This has to do with the perfumer's skills and preferences. Arabian perfumery is also alcohol free and in oil medium, and it's deep and long lasting.

    cacio

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    I have only tried a relatively few oils. What bothers me most about the ones I have tried is not what might be perceived to be lacking in them as much as the way that they feel on my skin
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    I haven't been all that pleased with the oils that I've tried lately. All of them were bought to complement the edt/edp form of a fragrance, both for portability and to extend or oomph up the overall impression of the scent. You would think that the oil form would be more concentrated, but it's not always the case. For instance, I have several Oritigia scents in both their edp spray form and the oil roll-on. The oils are ok but they don't deepen or improve the performance so much. Also have several Ava Luxe oils and am not fond of them. I do agree, however, that the Bruno Acampora oils are a whole other class of product. I have the Azzurro di Capri in a spray extrait, and it is heavenly. I also have a couple of samples of the same scent in the perfume oil, and it's terrific - it has just a bit of difference from the extrait, enough to want just the merest dab on the wrist on top of the extrait. The two combined in this manner are an exquisite way to experience AdC from every facet. Bruno Acampora really does make the others look like amateurs.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    The only oils I bought back in the day where from DSH she did her own and also dupes of Chanel Cuir de Russie,Carons which where AWESOME. All her perfume oils rich deep and very long lasting on the skin.

    Now with the new postal regulations in the US/UK she can only ship oils not her regular perfumes. So perhaps it is to do with selling and shipping.
    DONNA

  7. #7

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    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    Oils are my preferred medium for scents.

    Just like alcohol based/there's good ones and bad ones. Many are total shit and smell like your child mixed it in kindergarten class.


    Once I tried the good ones, I started disliking the diluted alcohol ones.

    Most of my collection now is attars/ mukhallats/ and oil based in general.

    I'm not against synthetics but my nose likes real deer musk, real ambergris, real oud, etc....

    Once you start using the real deal/, oil seems to be the preferred medium

    An example of a company doing great alcohol is Areej Le Doré - but note their ingredients are the real deal.

    One other positive for me. I found the best place for me to apply fragrances is my hair. It lasts longer and I get whiffs of myself without having to over apply and knock others down. Oil goes better with hair than alcohol.

    I don't feel the oils to be greasy or sticky and like the slower evaporation.

    It's an evolutionary process - after 52 years of this hobby, led me to enjoy good oils. Now I can't go back.

    When you live in a place with average afternoon humidity is in the 30% range/alcohol is the enemy for perfume.
    Last edited by thebeck; 22nd September 2017 at 02:17 PM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    Quote Originally Posted by thebeck View Post
    Oils are my preferred medium for scents.

    Just like alcohol based/there's good ones and bad ones. Many are total shit and smell like your child mixed it in kindergarten class.


    Once I tried the good ones, I started disliking the diluted alcohol ones.

    Most of my collection now is attars/ mukhallats/ and oil based in general.

    I'm not against synthetics but my nose likes real deer musk, real ambergris, real oud, etc....

    Once you start using the real deal/, oil seems to be the preferred medium

    An example of a company doing great alcohol is Areej Le Doré - but note their ingredients are the real deal.

    One other positive for me. I found the best place for me to apply fragrances is my hair. It lasts longer and I get whiffs of myself without having to over apply and knock others down. Oil goes better with hair than alcohol.

    It's an evolutionary process - after 52 years of this hobby, led me to enjoy good oils. Now I can't go back.
    And if your nose is happy who gives a shit about the rest of the real deer.

  9. #9

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    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post
    And if your nose is happy who gives a shit about the rest of the real deer.
    I care if the musk is legally obtained, as is the case for Siberian Musk. I don't believe in breaking the law.
    Last edited by thebeck; 20th September 2017 at 05:42 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    Quote Originally Posted by thebeck View Post
    I care if the musk is legally obtained, as is the case for Siberian Musk. I don't believe in breaking the law.
    Not going to start this old argument again. Legally killing an endangered animal (i.e in a country where it is legal), in a cruel and barbaric way is OK, of course. Doing the same thing in a country where it is illegal is not OK. Makes perfect sense.

    Please don't respond as I will not reply. Respond, of course, I will not reply.

  11. #11

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    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post
    Not going to start this old argument again. Legally killing an endangered animal (i.e in a country where it is legal), in a cruel and barbaric way is OK, of course. Doing the same thing in a country where it is illegal is not OK. Makes perfect sense.

    Please don't respond as I will not reply. Respond, of course, I will not reply.
    Wow, I thought I was talking about why I like oils and then you posted on #8 - "And if your nose is happy who gives a shit about the rest of the real deer".
    I didn't even know where that came from. I felt the need for a polite response which I thought was a positive one. Evidently my response didn't please you.

    I hope the next time you respond to one of my posts that it is about the forum posting subject matter. In this case the subject matter was about likes and dislikes of oils as a carrier - for which was never mentioned in your response. I surely didn't intend to discuss the pros and cons of legally obtained deer musk - that is discussed in other forums for which I don't participate.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    Stands up and applauds David Ruskin!!!

    And no I will also not comment more on that subject as we really don't want thebeck's thread closed.
    DONNA

  13. #13
    mnaonbn
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    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    Mod, please delete.
    Last edited by mnaonbn; 15th October 2017 at 11:45 AM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    If you were to compare the same fragrance in ethanol and in a fixed oil such as Almond or Castor oil you would probably find the alcohol sample to be stronger and more diffusive; whilst the oil based one would probably last longer on skin. Skin feel is nasty using fixed oils; greasy and sticky. The main problem with ethanol appears to be transportation.

    A good oil based fragrance will be as good as an alcohol based fragrance.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post
    If you were to compare the same fragrance in ethanol and in a fixed oil such as Almond or Castor oil you would probably find the alcohol sample to be stronger and more diffusive; whilst the oil based one would probably last longer on skin. Skin feel is nasty using fixed oils; greasy and sticky. The main problem with ethanol appears to be transportation.

    A good oil based fragrance will be as good as an alcohol based fragrance.
    Thanks for that explanation, David. Could you answer something that's been puzzling me? In the indie perfume oil community, there is a perception that perfume oils (ones using carrier oils like bran, coconut, castor, etc.) need to rest when you get them, that their scent only settles and becomes itself after 3-7 days of resting in a dark cupboard. The theory being that these oils suffer from "mail shock". This is a widespread belief in this particular community, with most people insisting that the scent of the oil on day 1 out of the mail will be considerably different from its scent on day 7, or even months down the line. I remember seeing one person on a Fragrantica board saying that it was because there is no alcohol in the oils, so the compounds/naturals/synthetics needed time to settle, especially after a long journey.

    But in the sub-community around attars and mukhallats, there is no mention of resting oils. There seems to be no corresponding belief in this community that the oil-based format is affected by the mail system, air travel, etc. I have never had an attar or mukhallat smell or behave differently from one day to the next, although I suppose if the attar is sandalwood-based, there would be some deepening of the aroma over time (usually years).

    I would really like to know what the truth is - do oil-based perfumes need to rest and do they change so dramatically with time? Is it possible for air travel to shock a perfume oil into smelling one way on day 1 and another on day 7? Is it to do with the fact the concentrated perfume oils often contain more synthetics and different carrier oils than attars or mukhallats that contain more natural materials, or a greater concentration of them, and are usually in sandalwood oil rather than a carrier oil?

  16. #16

    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    I have done a little work with oil based fragrances so cannot claim to be an expert; however, I cannot see any reason why the arresting process should have any effect at all. Seems to me to be an attempt to inject some New Age nonsense into the use of these products.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    So far, only experienced fragrance oils mainly from budget or at least inexpensive Middle Eastern houses, quite easy to find as well.

    And while having not enough knowledge and experience to answer point (1), regarding point (2) had personally very little to no experiences like this, since their performance was generally good without any allergic reactions nor "off", unbalanced, poorly crafted etc. notes.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Perfume oils leaving something to be desired?

    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post
    I have done a little work with oil based fragrances so cannot claim to be an expert; however, I cannot see any reason why the arresting process should have any effect at all. Seems to me to be an attempt to inject some New Age nonsense into the use of these products.
    Thanks David, I appreciate your answer.




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