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  1. #1

    Post Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    I thought it might be fun to post this list dispelling the misconceptions I read most often about this brand’s fragrances.

    1. Molecule 01 is just Iso E Super

    Molecule 01 is actually Iso Gamma Super, an exclusive variant of Iso E of higher quality and with different scent characteristics. There are several Iso Es on the market of varying quality, supplied by different companies and obtained by different manufacturing techniques. Not all Iso E Super is created equal!

    2. Iso E Super is just one molecule

    Actually, Iso E Super (and Iso Gamma Super) is a mixture of different isomers (molecules with the same atoms but different arrangements.) Iso Gamma Super contains a higher content of the desirable gamma isomer resulting in a higher prized material with a superior scent profile.

    3. I can easily make my own Molecule 01

    Unlikely. Iso Gamma Super is a patented material, exclusive to International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF), and it is not sold to the public. You’ll find many accounts of people who tried and couldn’t quite replicate M01 at home. You might come close, and you might enjoy your creation just as much or even more, but it will not be the same.

    4. Molecule 02 is the same as Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume

    While both products are advertised as containing only Ambroxan, only Molecule 02 fulfils that promise.

    M02 contains 25% Ambroxan as its only perfume ingredient, while JHAG NAP contains less than 10% Cetalox, which is not the same. Ambroxan is a higher value material with a purer scent profile.

    JHAG also cheats by adding other perfume ingredients, such as Hedione and musk. This is why you find a lot of people comparing NAP to the drydown of D&G Light Blue for Women. NAP sits in an awkward middle ground, neither a singular component nor a complete perfume.

    5. Molecule 01 and 02 are overpriced

    Value is subjective and personal, but consider the following:

    • Ambroxan is a relatively expensive ingredient in perfumery, and at an overdose of 25%, M02 costs more than the formulas of many popular fragrances in the same price bracket.

    • Iso Gamma Super is an exclusive ingredient that cannot be purchased by the public. Not only is it more expensive to source than other forms of Iso E, it also makes M01 an exclusive product that cannot be easily replicated, and there is intrinsic value in that exclusivity if you enjoy the product.

    If you don’t care for a scent, then its value to you is low by default. But if you enjoy these scents, don’t be put off by anyone who claims you’re a sucker for buying them.

  2. #2
    Basenotes Junkie daioc's Avatar
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    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    A noble effort Can you do anything with:

    6. Molecule 01 smells a lot like standing next to a photocopier for an hour or two, or;

    7. Molecule 03 is a hideous thing and should never have got past testing

    ..?

    (I don't mind 1 and 2, really, and I still hope that some day they'll release one which is the synthetic oud note which Montale / Dior / AdP have all used)
    Last edited by daioc; 13th December 2017 at 09:16 PM.
    Currently wearing: Green Irish Tweed by Creed

  3. #3

    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    Quote Originally Posted by daioc View Post
    Noble effort Can you do anything with:

    6. Molecule 01 smells a lot like standing next to a photocopier for an hour or two, or;

    7. Molecule 03 is a hideous thing and should never have got past testing

    ..?

    (I don't mind 1 and 2, really, and I still hope that some day they'll release one which is the synthetic oud note which Montale / Dior / AdP have all used)
    Ha! I get fizzy cedar from M01 but it's interesting to read all the different perceptions of it. I've actually never smelled M03 (vetiveryl acetate), but it seems to have a very, uh, limited fanbase.

    I'm personally a huge fan of the fatty musk Muscone, used in Escentric 02 and Chanel Eau de Cologne. I always wondered what that would be like in isolation. Can't get enough of it!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    I find the Molecules gimmicky. I don't know why. To me it's a money grab disguised as a hip perfume.

  5. #5
    Dependent NickZee's Avatar
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    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    Quote Originally Posted by blxii View Post
    I find the Molecules gimmicky. I don't know why. To me it's a money grab disguised as a hip perfume.
    Yeah agreed, dry gimmicky. And that isn’t a myth, it’s an opinion that many people hold.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    Interesting observations by the OP on this house. Thanks for sharing.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    The first myth that came to my mind upon reading the heading was the myth that you can smell it. (Purely personal; I can't. )
    ​"It was foolish of her not to have bought a larger bottle."

    Dorothy Eden, The Time of the Dragon

  8. #8

    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Interesting observations by the OP on this house. Thanks for sharing.
    You’re welcome! Glad you found it interesting.

    Quote Originally Posted by FiveoaksBouquet View Post
    The first myth that came to my mind upon reading the heading was the myth that you can smell it. (Purely personal; I can't. )
    I know that for some people it takes multiple attempts to smell these, or applying sparingly and not too close to your nose. That said, some people are truly anosmic to some of the bigger molecule ingredients. I smell both 01 and 02 as very subtle and delicate, and then others perceive them as loud and overbearing!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    Escentric Molecules could include this pamphlet in each box...

    Regards, Pipi

  10. #10
    Dependent clamnole's Avatar
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    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    Interesting. While I've only sampled 01, and didn't really get much out of it, I personally find the whole idea of a synthetic single note a bit "anti-compelling", if there is such a term. While I know there are many fragrances that are heavy synthetic or pure synthetic these days, it seems to me that the Molecule fragrances lack the human art form of design. Just my unknowledgeable opinion.

    However, I always fall back to "if you like something, let that be your guide".

    Thanks for sharing what you know. Very interesting.
    Currently wearing: Reflection Man by Amouage

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    I've tried all the Escentric Molecule fragrances and wore Molecule 01 a few times until I realized that it clung so fiercely to my shirt that even after washing and drying it, the entire load of laundry was scented with Molecule 01. I like long lasting scents, but that was a bit much.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    The tastes and sensitivities of each person are obviously different.
    I am happy that many people enjoy such unique fragrances (I speak basically of those considered Molecules).
    Personally 01 it is a scent that I find terrible; I am hypersensitive, I get a headache and I detect a very unpleasant odor of ketone.

    In my opinion, everything I see (and smell) about this brand is tremendously biased, gimmicky ... not worthy of attention or spending any money on it.

    It seems very good to me that everyone sells what they want and each one buys what he wants.

    What does not seem so good to me, as a general consumer, is that they want to tease me.
    And as a consumer, gentlemen, I have the right to claim.

    I just entered the EM website, and I can already find the phrase: "Art & Chemistry".

    You bottled alcohol and the variety that is Super Iso E, gamma beta or alpha, a compound discovered and patented in the 70's by someone who was not you and who throughout the decades has been used enormously in a multitude of fragrances!!
    Could you tell me what art requires this? Many things may be required, but art! Sell ​​bottles without a cap, this must be art then.

    Now I move to another page, "About", where the following is commented:

    Schoen began to experiment, creating fragrances that contained Iso E Super in unheard-of proportions. One night I went further. Heading out for a drink with a friend, I have suggested they spritz on nothing but the aroma-molecule itself.

    The effect was immediate. No sooner had they sat down at a bar, than a woman came up to ask about their fragrance. As Schoen talked with her, it became clear that the connection between the fragrances she liked was also a large dose of Iso E Super. Schoen realized he was on to something.


    Here we find one of the oldest, sexist and pathetic resources in the world of perfumery; that concept that likes so much - especially in men - to have a chick-magnet at their disposal, an infallible and irresistible pheromone totem.

    I am done.

    I just want to recommend you 2 nice and interesting articles:
    https://www.fragrantica.com/news/The...mery-7729.html
    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.hk/200...ults-geza.html

    Regards, Pipi
    Last edited by Pipistrello; 15th December 2017 at 03:39 AM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    Quote Originally Posted by Pipistrello View Post
    The tastes and sensitivities of each person are obviously different.
    I am happy that many people enjoy such unique fragrances (I speak basically of those considered Molecules).
    Personally 01 it is a scent that I find terrible; I am hypersensitive, I get a headache and I detect a very unpleasant odor of ketone.

    In my opinion, everything I see (and smell) about this brand is tremendously biased, gimmicky ... not worthy of attention or spending any money on it.

    It seems very good to me that everyone sells what they want and each one buys what he wants.

    What does not seem so good to me, as a general consumer, is that they want to tease me.
    And as a consumer, gentlemen, I have the right to claim.

    I just entered the EM website, and I can already find the phrase: "Art & Chemistry".

    You bottled alcohol and the variety that is Super Iso E, gamma beta or alpha, a compound discovered and patented in the 70's by someone who was not you and who throughout the decades has been used enormously in a multitude of fragrances!!
    Could you tell me what art requires this? Many things may be required, but art! Sell ​​bottles without a cap, this must be art then.

    Now I move to another page, "About", where the following is commented:

    Schoen began to experiment, creating fragrances that contained Iso E Super in unheard-of proportions. One night I went further. Heading out for a drink with a friend, I have suggested they spritz on nothing but the aroma-molecule itself.

    The effect was immediate. No sooner had they sat down at a bar, than a woman came up to ask about their fragrance. As Schoen talked with her, it became clear that the connection between the fragrances she liked was also a large dose of Iso E Super. Schoen realized he was on to something.


    Here we find one of the oldest, sexist and pathetic resources in the world of perfumery; that concept that likes so much - especially in men - to have a chick-magnet at their disposal, an infallible and irresistible pheromone totem.

    I am done.

    I just want to recommend you 2 nice and interesting articles:
    https://www.fragrantica.com/news/The...mery-7729.html
    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.hk/200...ults-geza.html

    Regards, Pipi
    Hey Pipi,

    Thanks for your thoughts. Those 2 are great articles I’ve read before but didn’t mind reading again.

    I always shudder to think some people perceive these as loud and unpleasant because I mostly wear these (in an office) in order NOT to offend anybody. But I guess there’s that risk with just about anything.

    With regard to the brand… yeah, I get it. I can totally see the cynic’s angle on it, and I’m quite a cynical person.

    I’ll give you my take. I think the ‘art’ component of ‘art and chemistry’ refers to the Escentric set from the brand, which you probably know are the complete compositions in the line. In every interview I’ve seen with Geza Schoen, he’s careful to point out that all he did with the Molecule set is just bottle something, there was no creation involved, no talent. Only the original idea to do it. It was always expected the Escentric fragrances would be the best sellers, but it was the Molecules that took on a life of their own.

    With regard to the backstory and the anecdote about attracting women, I think your point is perfectly valid. Especially within the current cultural climate, that passage comes off tone deaf at the very least. I don’t know any of the people involved, and I make no effort to defend them. All I will say is that everything I’ve seen or read of the creator, he doesn’t seem to embody that. He’s often spoken about his fascination with Iso E as an attractant, both in men and women, and a big part of perfumery and often the task for perfumers is to create scents of attraction. His ‘Beautiful Mind’ series, made in collaboration with a world memory champion and a classical ballet dancer, was created as a protest of the crass depiction of women in perfumery marketing and in wider pop culture. You can find out more about that line here: https://www.luckyscent.com/brand/496...ul-mind-series

    To be clear, I’m not saying you’re wrong about anything. I just wanted to add what I knew to the conversation.
    Last edited by TrimmTrabb; 15th December 2017 at 05:12 AM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    I love it, and wasn't about to attempt to make my own. I considered it though, so good to know that I wouldn't have been getting the same Iso E Super.
    About the toner smell-this is exactly what I get when I've been heavy handed. And by that, I mean more than 2 or 3 "mist"- spritz from arms length. I still cannot wrap my head around people claiming you can drench yourself in this! Please do not.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    I like Iso E Super and I liked Escentric Molecules, just not enough to want to own a full bottle. I will get by with my Iso E Super prominent fragrances in my wardrobe (like Bang).
    "A man has made at least a start on discovering the meaning of human life when he plants shade trees under which he knows full well he will never sit. "

    -- D. Elton Trueblood

  16. #16

    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I like Iso E Super and I liked Escentric Molecules, just not enough to want to own a full bottle. I will get by with my Iso E Super prominent fragrances in my wardrobe (like Bang).
    There's a video of an interesting presentation by Yann Vasnier, the perfumer behind Bang, where he talks a bit about the creative process and the formula behind it. Marc Jacobs wanted a strong black pepper, and Yann's proposal won over the competition by using Givaudan's patented Pepperwood, a pepper note that lasts long into the dry-down. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A2MoVygXss

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    Quote Originally Posted by TrimmTrabb View Post
    There's a video of an interesting presentation by Yann Vasnier, the perfumer behind Bang, where he talks a bit about the creative process and the formula behind it. Marc Jacobs wanted a strong black pepper, and Yann's proposal won over the competition by using Givaudan's patented Pepperwood, a pepper note that lasts long into the dry-down. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A2MoVygXss
    Thank you!
    "A man has made at least a start on discovering the meaning of human life when he plants shade trees under which he knows full well he will never sit. "

    -- D. Elton Trueblood

  18. #18
    Basenotes Member Hayling's Avatar
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    Default Re: Top 5 misconceptions about Escentric Molecules

    Very informative
    My current top 10:

    I. Ambre Nuit ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ VI. Instant Crush
    II. Oud Bleu Intense⠀⠀⠀⠀VII. Battito d'Ali
    III. Nefs ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ VIII. Angelique Noire
    IV. Rosendo Mateu 5⠀⠀⠀ IX. Bouquet Ideale
    V. Bois Doré ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀X. Acqua e Zucchero
    Currently wearing: Instant Crush by Mancera




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