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  1. #1
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    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
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    Default New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    tabac_vert_1.jpg

    "A rich, vintage-inspired fragrance for the perfect gentleman."

    Tabac Vert is a unisex scent which evokes fragmented images of the old world; wood paneled parlors, soft leather chairs and fine cigars.

    This is a turn-of-the-century style formulation and contains over 40% natural essential oils and absolutes, including oakmoss not constrained to IFRA levels.

    Notes include tobacco, cedar, pepper, bergamot, amber and sandalwood.

    The perfumer is Manuel Cross. More information can be found here:

    https://www.etsy.com/shop/RoguePerfumery

    Fellow Basenotes member Bigsly has reviewed Tabac Vert and other fragrances by Rogue Perfumery here:

    https://bigslyfragrance.wordpress.co...ay-no-to-ifra/

    I have not sniffed this one yet, but will do so very soon.
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines
    Currently wearing: Wanted by Azzaro

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Appreciate the info on this new release.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  3. #3
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    Diamondflame's Avatar
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Too bad they don’t ship to my corner of the world...

  4. #4

    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    I like this one a lot. Very much an old-school formulation. Kudos to Manuel!

  5. #5

    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    I remember seeing this mentioned before, sounds interesting, I may very well order a sample or two from his Etsy page

  6. #6
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    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Appreciate the info on this new release.
    You're welcome!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Too bad they don’t ship to my corner of the world...
    Good news - I looked on the page and he's added a line:

    "If you are outside of the US, please contact me and we can discuss international shipping."

    I think there's a contact link right there. I'm presuming that he can use FedEx, DHL or the like. USPS has basically ceded international fragrance shipping to them.

    Quote Originally Posted by cologne connoisseur View Post
    I like this one a lot. Very much an old-school formulation. Kudos to Manuel!
    Bigsly likens it to "Vintage" Tabarome by Creed - and that is a fave of mine. Really looking forward to my first sniff this week.

    Quote Originally Posted by SmellYouLater View Post
    I remember seeing this mentioned before, sounds interesting, I may very well order a sample or two from his Etsy page
    I came very close to blind-buying this on the bottle alone. Now, I'm going to decide based on testing, between the 3 initial releases.
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines
    Currently wearing: Wanted by Azzaro

  7. #7
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Thanks, Red. Samples are on the way! Yippee!!

  8. #8
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Thanks, Red. Samples are on the way! Yippee!!
    WOO-HOO!!!

    There you go - customer service!
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines
    Currently wearing: Wanted by Azzaro

  9. #9
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    How about getting this house and fragrances in the BN directory?
    Currently wearing: Vert des Bois by Tom Ford

  10. #10
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Quote Originally Posted by Bangkok Hound View Post
    How about getting this house and fragrances in the BN directory?
    Hopefully soon! I would do a submission of the fragrances if the house were added!
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines
    Currently wearing: Wanted by Azzaro

  11. #11
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    OK - just had my first sniff of this one - on paper. Stream-of-consciousness review.

    There is definite, unmistakable, powerful, old-school magic in this. It's definitely the oakmoss, too. It amplifies the tobacco in a very "retro" way. It gives the tobacco accord a sharp, clean edge that mimics the gentle, pitch-perfect sharpness of leaf tobacco. The musks are soapy and quaint, too.

    Bigsly was SPOT ON with his likening this to Creed Vintage Tabarome. This is the closest thing to VT that I've ever smelled. But it's not identical - it feels less retro - more like a modern fragrance. I think the characterization of "vintage-inspired" is precisely what this is. It's its own beast. It's not mimicking vintage - it's simply inspired by it - aspiring to the same values.

    It's a strong fragrance, too. I did not put that much on the paper, and it is just roaring off. But it's very well balanced, and not "wall of scent" powerhouse - just substantial, like they used to be. NOT Amouage. Much more like Creed, though not Creed.

    You can really see what the oakmoss does here - the FULLNESS of its effect which is so lacking in modern fragrances that don't have it in decent quantity. The sharpness and cleanness of the chypre note here is unmistakable, and now I can see how the sharpness of oud has been an interesting but very inexact substitute for the sharpness of oakmoss, accompanied by all the woody and oily oud character that is difficult to pare away. Oud is to oakmoss as screwdriver is to needle. You can do a lot with a screwdriver, but when you need a big needle, a screwdriver is a poor substitute.

    This is not an amateurish fragrance, and while I know that Manny worked with known formulas as a starting point, so does every student of perfumery. There were a lot of ways to mess this up, and he didn't do any of them. It's perhaps a wee bit soapier than I would prefer, but as I observe the scent, I think it was a smart choice to provide a gentle but continuous contrast at the exact level he did, which evokes interest. This smells like a Vintage Tabarome flanker or re-release, possibly with the barest touch more tobacco, or a slightly different tobacco, and maybe even a bit more masculine than VT, which I always thought was slightly effeminate. VT uses some different tricks that make it seem authentically older. This one feels like it's not trying to be old, just give a nod to the old. VT always struck me as 19th century. Tabac Vert seems 1950's meets 2018. The image used in the card is basically exactly the feeling of it - multiple tones of sepia. There's something NOW and something dated that would fit right in with Marilyn Monroe, '50's cars, and those old Chanel ads. It's old Americana but still upscale. "Fancy."

    There is a lot of naturalness here, but not the rough and strong, pipe-tobacco, rustic naturalness of many tobacco scents. It reminds me a LOT of Alt-Innsbruck Eau de Cologne, only amped up massively in some weird way and then turned into a chypre. Imagine Alt-Innsbruck with projection and longevity! So two groups of people I would recommend this to are fans of Vintage Tabarome and fans of Alt-Innsbruck. The latter I'm taking to include the wet-shaver crowd, because this seems like something for them. The soapy character is one form of "barbershop", and I will bet they like this. The soapy part is very nice.

    Definite niche quality. If there were an Anthropologie for guys, and no restrictions on oakmoss, this would be in it, next to the vintage inspired accessories for men. It's very addictive, too - really don't want to stop smelling this stuff.

    Now, as it burns down on paper, I note that it's basically holding its form.

    The tobacco notes are showing decent longevity so far, staying strong against the musk, which is a must for me. The oakmoss is falling off very gently - totally unlike these modern things with barely any in them, where the half-life of the chypre note is measured in minutes, not hours. It's almost feeling like the soap notes are subsiding, but I'm not sure if that's them or me, showing some olfactory fatigue on the large musk molecules. The old-school character is staying put - thankfully. The tobacco notes may even be getting stronger, relatively speaking, to the whole.

    Note - this is ON PAPER, so it's going to be like clothing, where I will wear this. I personally don't believe in wearing non-IFRA stuff on skin. Somebody else will have to do a skin review. I prefer clothing anyway for scents which degrade on skin. My skin is murder on oakmoss, so I've just learned not to put anything with oakmoss on skin, if I want any kind of longevity. But that is also how I get a full 8 hours of chypre goodness out of things like Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme.

    Bottom line, I think this is FBW for me, personally, but I need to check out the other scents first to see if I want to get the vetiver, Le Canotier. I'm leery of Chypre-Siam with its nitro musks, but I'm also very curious, and look forward to trying that, too. But again, there is NO WAY I will ever wear that one on skin.

    I will review another one of these in the next day or two.

    Very nice! 4 stars, once I get it into my wardrobe.
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines
    Currently wearing: Wanted by Azzaro

  12. #12

    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    I'm intrigued, to say the least. Thanks for the extensive review, too!

  13. #13
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Wow. Sounds like a winner to me. I'm a fan of Vintage Tabarome and I love soapy scents. Can hardly wait for my sample...

  14. #14
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    I'm intrigued, to say the least. Thanks for the extensive review, too!
    You're welcome! It was a pleasant surprise. Bottom line - extreme truth in advertising. A gentle yet rich, fine tobacco experience. And much respect for Bigsly's nose, too.

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Wow. Sounds like a winner to me. I'm a fan of Vintage Tabarome and I love soapy scents. Can hardly wait for my sample...
    I'm very happy, but you may be even happier. I suspect that the tobacco experience is richer if worn on skin. I'm just guessing there, but it is probably more dynamic on skin, like most scents are.

    What I would really love to have would be a glass or crystal "perfume locket" that would match the bottle, and that I can carry in my pocket, wetted down with the fragrance. So I may prowl Etsy looking for such a thing, or something that would function the same. People make some astounding knick-knacks these days.

    One last note - the base is excellent. Staying natural is the big take-home message - plenty of tobacco, still very much in balance. Again, that's paper, but so many scents can't even manage that much maintenance of character. We're talking 14 hours later on paper and still awesome. Even some chypre blowing off!
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines
    Currently wearing: Wanted by Azzaro

  15. #15

    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    I just ordered all the samples from Etsy. They now ship worldwide. I am so excited.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Quote Originally Posted by Parfum de peau View Post
    I just ordered all the samples from Etsy. They now ship worldwide. I am so excited.
    Great!

    I revisited my samples, and the thing I love is that all of these are substantial. They actually have some real strength, and even moreso, longevity.
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines
    Currently wearing: Wanted by Azzaro

  17. #17

    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    I’d like to add that I have sampled, and then subsequently purchased, this scent. It is in fact very close to VT, just more dry and less sweet (I know VT isn’t sweet, but somehow TV is less sweet). VT is blended better and a little more lush, but Tabac Vert comes close at a fraction of the price. My suggestion is that if you are interested in VT, before you go trying to buy one of those overpriced bottles, check Rogue Perfumery out on etsy, and get a sample. I’m not a betting man but if I had to bet, I’d bet that you won’t be disappointed.

  18. #18

    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    He also has a scent called L’Umineee or something like that which smells similar to Zoologist Camel and Xerjoff Malesia, but better than both. ‘M surprised to not see anything on basenotes about that scent given how good it is.

  19. #19
    Basenotes Plus

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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Quote Originally Posted by litworth View Post
    I’d like to add that I have sampled, and then subsequently purchased, this scent. It is in fact very close to VT, just more dry and less sweet (I know VT isn’t sweet, but somehow TV is less sweet). VT is blended better and a little more lush, but Tabac Vert comes close at a fraction of the price. My suggestion is that if you are interested in VT, before you go trying to buy one of those overpriced bottles, check Rogue Perfumery out on etsy, and get a sample. I’m not a betting man but if I had to bet, I’d bet that you won’t be disappointed.
    Agreed - and that is without even considering the questions of freshness and oakmoss levels (versus aging bottles of VT from the reduced oakmoss era).

    Quote Originally Posted by litworth View Post
    He also has a scent called L’Umineee or something like that which smells similar to Zoologist Camel and Xerjoff Malesia, but better than both. ‘M surprised to not see anything on basenotes about that scent given how good it is.
    Just saw those newer scents on his website!
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines
    Currently wearing: Wanted by Azzaro

  20. #20

    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Currently waiting for my sample of Tabac Vert to arrive. Eager to try it!

  21. #21

    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    Edit, found the more appropriate thread.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    And still not in the Basenotes Directory. Surely if there's time and space for Dua and Alexandria then there should be enough for Rouge Perfumery as well.
    Currently wearing: Vert des Bois by Tom Ford

  23. #23

    Default Re: New: Rogue Perfumery - Tabac Vert EdT

    ^Agreed!




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