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  1. #1

    Default QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Week 13!

    No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Everyone is welcome to test, discuss, reminisce, and generally wax lyrical (or not!).


    This is the thirteenth week of a quest to test and discuss the top 100 (more or less) perfumes in The LIttle Book of Perfumes (Turin/Sanchez). There's a lot more information about the quest, lists of the perfumes, and an index to the weeks and perfumes we're covering on the stickied Week 1 thread.


    QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Index and Week 1 (Shalimar and Opium)
    Currently wearing: Homage Attar by Amouage

  2. #2

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    I can't stand No.5 EdT or EdP iterations, but I was lucky enough to try the Parfum a few months ago, and it is a very different animal.

    The aldehydes are toned down, and give just a little sparkle to the composition as opposed to going 'full soap' to my nose. Beneath this initial blast is a clean sheet of mixed florals, layered over something rather animalistic with an improper edge to it. It's highly abstract and picking out any notes isn't easy - it is a sum of its parts rather than being disjointed.

    Still, No.5 Parfum is not my cup of tea, though this is the version I can get along with unlike the others. Also, I'd happily give it another shot in the future.

  3. #3

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    I sprayed the parfum a couple of years ago at the airport. Very crisp and floral. Less heavy than the edp, but more substantial than the edt (which is lighter and simpler). I have a slightly older bottle that I will try again.

    Similarly, I will try again Gold. I don't have the current one, which felt lighter than older versions. But I think I have a sample of an older one.

    cacio

  4. #4

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Gold: I'm sniffing the sprayer of my sample, having just removed the cap. Initially I feel that it's kind of a Joy meets Rive Gauche. Or maybe a Tiffany meets White Linen. You get the idea, I think. Top a sweet floriental with a sharp aldehyde. I think it has some things in common with No. 5 EDP. But it's probably closer to Liu, if Liu were really concentrated. Maybe a Liu Parfum.

    The Rose is tart and sweet at the same time, like the rose in Tocade or Miss Charming by Juliette Has a Gun. I also think the base resembles Knowing. Anyway, I need to get to know it a bit better before I test it on skin.
    Last edited by Kotori; 9th January 2018 at 02:08 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  5. #5

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    I like your description of Joy meets RG. Gold definitely wanted to be a supercharged white-rosy floral.

    Are you smelling current or vintage?

    cacio

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    No. 5 is silk. Gold is satin. Both are smooth but Gold is heavier.
    JULY REFRESHERS
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  7. #7

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    I sprayed Gold this morning (vintage-ish bottle). Agree with what said so far. A beautiful abstract white floral, big but not overwhelming. There are tons of aldehydes and other clean materials, but they are balanced by jasmine with a little bit, but not too much, dirt. Some civet to help things bloom, a touch of incense and woods. Clean but not scrubbed clean, warm but not heavy. Just perfect.

    When I sprayed, I noticed a little bit of dreaded deterioration in the very top (perhaps some citrus gone bad), but after 15 minutes it was pure bliss. I have not tried the current version. I remember spraying it in store and finding it lighter and less substantial. But I need to try again.

    cacio

  8. #8

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Gold As a dedicated No. 5 wearer I expected this to be right up my street when I first tried it, and it totally was. A full bottle purchase followed swiftly. I think Turin calls this a huge floral, a well-deserved title. Gold is expansive enough to fill a room, and it has a way of almost physically filling my nose. I'm quite sure I have the reformulated version, but I made the mistake of spraying double my normal amount one morning and regretted it all day. It's a 3 sprays max kind of fragrance in it's current form, whatever people say about its diminished strength! The vintage version cacio is describing must be heavenly though, I hope I can get my hands on some one day.

    I'll leave the note description to others, but I will tell you something about my impression of this scent.

    Many reviewers describe Gold as the ultimate diamonds-and-furs-to-the-opera scent: extremely formal, sophisticated and ladylike, but I have a different experience. To me, Gold, though luxurious, is first and foremost exuberant. It conjurs op the image of a very well to do, upper class lady who doesn't care too much what people think of her. She knows the rules she's supposed to play by, but she also knows she can get away with bending them, and she happily uses that knowledge. If that makes her a little eccentric, so much the better. She's a woman well bred children at elegant parties gravitate towards because she's authentic and a tiny bit nuts. I like her a lot and I always feel great wearing her.

    Compared to Gold, No. 5 is more of an introvert who looks cool and collected on the outside and who keeps her cards close to her chest. When you get to know her though...

    Ps: I love your comparison Trilby Lark, it's right on the money texture wise!
    Last edited by yellowtone; 10th January 2018 at 05:58 AM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Gold

    Wearing some from a sample kindly provide by yellowtone!

    This opens with exactly the whiff of aldehydes I did not like in my youth as they were too perfumey. Nowadays, I'm getting to like them more and more. It's a beautiful lush floral with a lovely sharp edge, and I can even get along with the almost mango like fruity hint.
    Currently wearing: Homage Attar by Amouage

  10. #10

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by Nastka View Post
    I can't stand No.5 EdT or EdP iterations, but I was lucky enough to try the Parfum a few months ago, and it is a very different animal.

    The aldehydes are toned down, and give just a little sparkle to the composition as opposed to going 'full soap' to my nose. Beneath this initial blast is a clean sheet of mixed florals, layered over something rather animalistic with an improper edge to it. It's highly abstract and picking out any notes isn't easy - it is a sum of its parts rather than being disjointed.
    Agreed; I don't adore the EDT or the EDP, but I received a sample of the vintage parfum this week and it's a beauty.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  11. #11

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I like your description of Joy meets RG. Gold definitely wanted to be a supercharged white-rosy floral.

    Are you smelling current or vintage?

    cacio
    Great question; I don't know. I've got whatever Notino is selling. I bought the sample from them.

    Quote Originally Posted by Trilby Lark View Post
    No. 5 is silk. Gold is satin. Both are smooth but Gold is heavier.
    Love the metaphor.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  12. #12

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    I’ve only smelled vintage Gold and it was some years ago-but it definitely made an impression. Definitely one of No.5’s descendants. Joy and L’Aimant came to mind, too. Gold’s floral heft makes it stand out from the pack. I feel the name is perfectly suited as this was not the diamond sparkle or champagne bubbles of No.5. It truly does gleam like gold. It’s absolutely stunning but I ultimately didn’t want it for my own wear. Only for a nitpicky little reason, though; I’m personally averse to roses as soapy as Gold’s. However, I find not a thing wrong with it from a critical standpoint. And I really wish this style would make a comeback.

    I’m wearing No. 5 extrait today, from a fairly current bottle. My only beef with the current is that it doesn’t last. Very fleeting. The composition is perfect to me, though. I don’t miss the dirtier musks, just the longevity. If it’s really the the aldehydes and floral heart you love (as it is for me) this scratches that itch. I find this extrait closer to the 80s Polge EdP than to EdT, though all are certainly 5. I have some vintages of No. 5 parfum that I’ll report on soon. They’re divine, of course. Still, I prefer my current bottle, simply due to freshness/lack of degradation. Gotta have that brand spankin’ new aldehyde sparkle. If only it would stick around longer! Unfortunately, those who loved 5 for the musks won’t find them here, or indeed any real drydown to speak of.

    ETA: I actually timed the modern No. 5 parfum today and I wasn’t kidding about brevity. I’ve had it on just over an hour and it’s done all it’s going to do. I can still smell it, but it has evolved into that No.5 gently sparkly floral powder accord (with ylang as the most prominent flower) and there it will stay. It really doesn’t evolve beyond that, just sort of trails off. I love it and don’t mind an afternoon top-up but I suspect No.5 wearers from previous eras would be mighty unhappy with this. I think they’d say it’s been gutted. This is not the 5 for strictly vintage lovers to seek out.
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 10th January 2018 at 01:20 PM.

  13. #13

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Perfumedlady

    sorry to hear about the longevity of NO 5. When I tested it 4 or 5 years ago, it was still very long lasting, though it's true that it did not have the sandalwood that it had before, it was a bit as you said, a sparkly floral.
    In a way, I agree with you that, good as it was, the sandalwood isn't the key to no 5, it's the abstract floral-aldehydic heart.

    cacio

  14. #14
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    PerfumedLady,

    That's such a shame! I wonder how the current EdP is. I'm reasonably content with the current EdT when I do wear it, so am wondering if layering it with the EdP would improve sillage and duration.

    Lack of longevity is my principal problem with almost all Chanel perfumes, except for Antaeus and Coromandel.

    Edit: Coco EdP has good duration as well in my experience.
    Last edited by freewheelingvagabond; 10th January 2018 at 03:15 PM.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    PerfumedLady,

    That's such a shame! I wonder how the current EdP is. I'm reasonably content with the current EdT when I do wear it, so am wondering if layering it with the EdP would improve sillage and duration.

    Lack of longevity is my principal problem with almost all Chanel perfumes, except for Antaeus and Coromandel.
    Freewheeling, I recently wore new No. 5 EdP and it lasted 10+ hours.
    JULY REFRESHERS
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  16. #16

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by Trilby Lark View Post
    Freewheeling, I recently wore new No. 5 EdP and it lasted 10+ hours.
    I happen to have a brand new EdP; agree it has excellent longevity. But it's a bit different composition; freewheeling. The opening is less fizz, more angular than other versions. The heart is the recognizable heart of 5 made weightier, yet smoother with incense, leather and vanilla, with sandalwood-y (definitely synthetics are in use, but done well) drydown. You might really like it; seems a predecessor of Samsara to me (will save more thoughts on that for the other No.5 Quest thread). And by all means, layer away! No.5 is great for that. I'd think EdT + EdP would pack a punch.

    Winter weather is a bit kinder to this parfum than warmth, cacio. It's a heart-of-5 skin scent by now; with the synthetic civet base (again, not the same as natural but nicely handled) coming forward a tad more. In summer, the florals start out more blousy, which is awfully pretty, but it fades completely faster. To me, it's fantastic. What it won't do under any circumstances, though is announce one's presence (unless just applied) or display the rich development and plush animalics of vintage. None of this affects my enjoyment in the least. It's still one of the most gorgeous things I've ever smelled. I wear it out and about and save the vintage for when I have nothing particular to do and can really pay attention to it. I see a use for both but others may not.
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 10th January 2018 at 07:36 PM.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    I happen to have a brand new EdP; agree it has excellent longevity. But it's a bit different composition; freewheeling. The opening is less fizz, more angular than other versions. The heart is the recognizable heart of 5 made weightier, yet smoother with incense, leather and vanilla, with sandalwood-y (definitely synthetics are in use, but done well) drydown.
    PerfumedLady, you make some fine distinctions here. I think you have explained why I enjoyed wearing the EdP this week when I previously disliked No. 5.
    JULY REFRESHERS
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  18. #18

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Gold

    Second full day - I've emptied my sample completely. Gold has brought me through the day - and still radiates softly with a creamy base that still has hints of the florals, with some lovely iris keeping things lively over the warm base.

    I have come to love these 'classical' perfumes which I guess were just not my style when I was young and wanted only sharp greens. For me, the best of the bunch is Acampora Prima T, a slightly less refined floral but beautiful. Although, there are many I haven't sampled yet!
    Currently wearing: Homage Attar by Amouage

  19. #19
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Gold

    Influenced by the high praise given Gold in The Little Book of Perfumes, it was one of the first perfumes I purchased when I first joined Basenotes. It smells very Old School high perfumery and is not one I wear casually. I save it for dressy occasions. I don’t wear it often but it serves an important function in my wardrobe. My sister is a flashy dresser who could pull it off for everyday wear. My style and comfort level is more understated.
    JULY REFRESHERS
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  20. #20
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ebenas View Post
    I have come to love these 'classical' perfumes which I guess were just not my style when I was young and wanted only sharp greens.
    Oh dear. Do you think that lusting after sharp greens is a sign of immaturity? If so, I may be entering adolescence at a very advanced age.

  21. #21

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post

    ETA: I actually timed the modern No. 5 parfum today and I wasn’t kidding about brevity. I’ve had it on just over an hour and it’s done all it’s going to do. I can still smell it, but it has evolved into that No.5 gently sparkly floral powder accord (with ylang as the most prominent flower) and there it will stay. It really doesn’t evolve beyond that, just sort of trails off. I love it and don’t mind an afternoon top-up but I suspect No.5 wearers from previous eras would be mighty unhappy with this. I think they’d say it’s been gutted. This is not the 5 for strictly vintage lovers to seek out.
    I had the same experience with the current extrait, which started to dissapear before I had left the store I was visiting! That's why I sought out some vintage extrait, which is also softer than the EdT ever was, but lasts a good 6 hours on me.

    I wore my 70s extrait today, and it is heavenly. I would reccommend this to anyone who can't stand aldehydes but still wants the no. 5 experience, like Nastka!

    Quote Originally Posted by Trilby Lark View Post
    Gold

    Influenced by the high praise given Gold in The Little Book of Perfumes, it was one of the first perfumes I purchased when I first joined Basenotes. It smells very Old School high perfumery and is not one I wear casually. I save it for dressy occasions. I don’t wear it often but it serves an important function in my wardrobe. My sister is a flashy dresser who could pull it off for everyday wear. My style and comfort level is more understated.
    I actually love the mismatch of wearing this with tattered tshirt & jeans when doing chores around the house or out grocery shopping, it makes even the cereal aisle a little glamorous!

  22. #22

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Oh dear. Do you think that lusting after sharp greens is a sign of immaturity? If so, I may be entering adolescence at a very advanced age.
    Not at all! I think the mark of maturity is realising that there are 'ands' as well as 'ors' - I can now happily like both!
    Currently wearing: Homage Attar by Amouage

  23. #23

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by yellowtone View Post
    I actually love the mismatch of wearing this with tattered tshirt & jeans when doing chores around the house or out grocery shopping, it makes even the cereal aisle a little glamorous!
    Absolutely! My perfume is often the only glamorous thing about me, and it definitely lifts all situations!
    Currently wearing: Homage Attar by Amouage

  24. #24

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Sharp greens (ie Cristalle) are of course as "old-smelling" as aldehydic florals right now, when Sephora shelves are filled with pink syrups and white floor cleaners.

    cacio

  25. #25
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by yellowtone View Post
    I actually love the mismatch of wearing this with tattered tshirt & jeans when doing chores around the house or out grocery shopping, it makes even the cereal aisle a little glamorous!
    I’ve done this myself occasionally, not often. It’s fun when done intentionally. Just to be ironic.
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  26. #26

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Gold - Skin Test

    I took the plunge. Initially my eyes burned. Then my sinuses, a bit. Then my mouth filled with the metallic taste of a copper penny. A No. 5 on steroids, they say. Yes, probably. It is most certainly on enhancements of some kind. I do not think we will be friends.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  27. #27

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by yellowtone View Post
    I actually love the mismatch of wearing this with tattered tshirt & jeans when doing chores around the house or out grocery shopping, it makes even the cereal aisle a little glamorous!
    That's my favorite way to wear Mitsouko.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  28. #28

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ebenas View Post
    Not at all! I think the mark of maturity is realising that there are 'ands' as well as 'ors' - I can now happily like both!
    Must it all be either less or more,
    Either plain or grand?
    Is it always 'or'?
    Is it never 'and'?
    That's what woods are for:
    For those moments in the woods...
    Oh, if life were made of moments,
    Even now and then a bad one--!
    But if life were only moments,
    Then you'd never know you had one.
    First a witch, then a child, then a Prince, then a moment--
    Who can live in the woods?
    And to get what you wish, only just for a moment--
    These are dangerous woods..
    Let the moment go..
    Don't forget it for a moment, though.
    Just remembering you had an 'and,' when you're back to 'or,'
    Makes the 'or' mean more than it did before.
    Now I understand--
    And it's time to leave the woods.


    -"Moments in the Woods," Into the Woods by Stephen Sondheim
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    That's my favorite way to wear Mitsouko.
    I like to wear Mitsouko with my taffeta track suit, especially at Starbucks. I show ‘em what retro style really is!
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  30. #30

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 13 No. 5 Parfum (Chanel) and Gold (Amouage)

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    Must it all be either less or more,
    Either plain or grand?
    Is it always 'or'?
    Is it never 'and'?
    That's what woods are for:
    For those moments in the woods...
    Oh, if life were made of moments,
    Even now and then a bad one--!
    But if life were only moments,
    Then you'd never know you had one.
    First a witch, then a child, then a Prince, then a moment--
    Who can live in the woods?
    And to get what you wish, only just for a moment--
    These are dangerous woods..
    Let the moment go..
    Don't forget it for a moment, though.
    Just remembering you had an 'and,' when you're back to 'or,'
    Makes the 'or' mean more than it did before.
    Now I understand--
    And it's time to leave the woods.


    -"Moments in the Woods," Into the Woods by Stephen Sondheim
    I know what I'm rewatching tonight!
    Currently wearing: Homage Attar by Amouage

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