Code of Conduct
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 45
  1. #1

    Default Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    For most of my life, I admired Mitsouko but didn't really consider making her mine. There were many other Guerlains that were my "identity in a bottle" types, and I mostly stuck to those. Plus, a couple of people close to me wore Mitsouko and I got the pleasure of second hand smoke, as it were. I am familiar with the vintage form starting from about 1960, and am aware of all the changes and reformulations and what has been lost. I still like Mitsouko and am starting to move into love for the scent. Right now, in the current formula, I'm partial to the edt over the edp. I also have a splash bottle of the edc (black and gold box) that I use with due respect.

    Up until the 2000's, there was a certain accord in Mitsouko (which to an extent is now missing) that I loved and found myself seeking out in other scents. It was part of the fruity-chypre formula that includes citrus, but not juicy, pulpy or bright. I always thought of it as dried bitter orange peel, ground to a powder and maybe mixed with incense. If any citrus facet can be somber, that was it. I always visualized portraits by Velasquez or Zurbaran on experiencing that note, something ornate, shadowed, not lighthearted - the scent of gravitas. I wore Quadrille for years and it occurs to me that I wore it because it also contained that note. I was on a parallel track to Mitsouko whether I knew it or not. There were other scents with that accord, like Cabriole by Arden, and believe it or not, Eau de Love by Love Cosmetics and I loved those too without realizing the DNA I was leaning into.

    So now here I am, starting to integrate Mitsouko into my life, and it seems so natural now and seamless. I look forward to a future with her, long may she last. Late to the party, but at least the party's still going on.

    And your path to Mitsouko? A headlong fall into it or a long winding trail?
    Last edited by Jardanel; 9th January 2018 at 06:55 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    I simply purchased it blindly because it was a classic Guerlain, and fortunately, I love it. I have a 100ml bottle of EdP that I purchased perhaps 3-4 years ago. I forget exactly whence I bought it. I also have a small bottle of extrait from c.1960s-1970s that I still have not opened. My bottle of EdP smells wonderful, but I have noticed that hours and hours after I have applied it, it suddenly starts to smell stale and unappealing. I do not know if it is my skin or the way the EdP is made or what, but if I wear it during the day, I find it impossible to go to bed at night without washing it off first.
    Fate gives all of us three teachers, three friends, three enemies, and three great loves in our lives. But these twelve are always disguised, and we never know which one is which until we've loved them, left them, or fought them.

    Gregory David Roberts

  3. #3

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Quote Originally Posted by Jardanel View Post
    It was part of the fruity-chypre formula that includes citrus, but not juicy, pulpy or bright. I always thought of it as dried bitter orange peel, ground to a powder and maybe mixed with incense. If any citrus facet can be somber, that was it. I always visualized portraits by Velasquez or Zurbaran on experiencing that note, something ornate, shadowed, not lighthearted - the scent of gravitas.
    This describes bergamot to me - bitter citrus with a resious underbelly.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    21,540

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Good guess about bergamot - among the many things that changed in perfumery, bergamot is one. It's probably brighter now. In Mitsouko, it goes with mossy, almosty incensy undertones.

    I wish I had more vintage Mitsouko. But I also want to try the very latest parfum, after the various re reformulations, discontinuations, and what else.

    cacio

  5. #5

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    What a beautiful description of your relationship with Mitsouko, Jardanel. It is hearing personal stories like this that makes Basenotes for me. Your description of the dried orange peel with the resinous underbelly is just perfect, and I know that I will think of that when I next wear it. Of all the perfumes in the world, it makes sense that it is something as standoffish as Mitsouko that causes so much angst and doubts on how to approach her. I saw one person on Fragrantica describing Mitsouko as a woman who is walking against the wind, her face scrunched up against the wind, her eyes inscrutable to passers-by, and I thought that was perfect. Still now, when I wear it, I feel like a woman off on her own and closed up in her own thoughts.

    My own journey with Mitsy mirrors yours in some ways. It can be a changeable, mercurial creature indeed, and is often a Janus face for me, one day revealing a soft, tender side that's quite likeable but closing up ranks against me the next. What I soon realized was that I was wearing more of the fruity chypres that are sister scents to Mitsouko than Mitsouko itself, simply because these other scents were less unstable on me and I felt I could depend on them more. A friendlier, more relaxed tone, perhaps. So, instead of Mitsouko I wore more Jubilation 25, Acqua di Parma Profumo, Femme, Shangi La, etc. In the last 8 months or so, I have started to wear Mitsouko itself a lot more than the others. It really has taken me a long time to stop being so cagey around that perfume and just wear it already. Now I find it kind of stern and sexy!

    Oof, the different versions, though. I swapped away my good 2014 EDP, missed it, and bought the 2016 one. Something about the bergamot is off - there is a smoky cuir de russie accord, with a strong, leathery ylang or something. It is very beautiful, but different to the harsh petrol-like vibe from the 2014 that I felt I was missing, an accord that smells a bit sour and gassy, like raw, warm rye bread dough on its second rising on a windowsill. The 2016 version is less offensively yeasty, but that opening, with its soapy, smoky ylang leather always makes me think I am smelling the wrong perfume. Funnily enough, a recent EDT is giving me pleasure!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Thanks Claire V.
    Enjoyed reading your thoughts and descriptions.
    Shangri La by Hiram Green is a personal favorite of mine as well - so beautifully crafted, so strong in character. The Mitsouko EDP I have has a slightly medicinal echo that I'm struggling with a bit - don't know the year.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    The later versions seem to incorporate a lot more iris - but not the expensive, typical-Guerlain kind....more like what would be used in Dior Homme. Not saying it's a bad thing, but it's less complex and nuanced and more in-your-face. It seems to have been ramped up to replace some of that bitter bergamot we've been discussing.

  8. #8
    Basenotes Plus

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    24,401
    Blog Entries
    39

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    My path to Mitsouko was very roundabout as well.

    I really did not get Mitsouko AT ALL for a long time. I read many opinions of the scent, but was most influenced by Mimi Gardenia and NTesla, who both loved it. I expected to smell what they did - and to be blown away, too - but whenever I sniffed Mitsouko in the Guerlain boutique, it just never seemed anything like what I expected. I was doing a Clara Peller imitation - "Where's the peach? Where's the smoke? Where's the chypre?" I thought it smelled OK, and somewhat Guerlainish, but certainly not great.

    My mistake, for starters, was not wearing it. But I also expected something rather brazen, and Mitsouko is far from brazen.

    Some time later, Guerlain gifted me a tester of Mitsouko EdT, when they were out of Aqua Allegorias and wanted to throw something in as a token of appreciation for a large order. I brought it home and it sat for a LONG time, untouched. Eventually I tried it - even wearing it - but still no dice. It just smelled weird and wrong. I could not believe that this was the great scent that people loved. I assumed that it had been completely destroyed by reformulations.

    Then, more recently, I read Claire's review of Mitsouko. When I read that she (of all people) found it enigmatic, I felt vindicated, that the scent was in fact a strange one. Looking through all the other BN reviews, I could see that Claire wasn't the only one. There were MANY people who spoke of difficulty finding a way in, of not "getting" the scent, or the like.

    After that, I tried ONE MORE TIME to wear it and see if it could click. And it DID - but not until I was well into the heart of the thing. The idea that got me over it was imagining my old relatives wearing it back when it was fairly new. Somehow, it all made sense when I did that. I could imagine the story of their lives - the scent BACK THEN - and it was like the scent made them young again, and I could see why people liked it.

    I have come to believe that the contrast of smoke and fruit was used to create the sense of inscrutability - of a distant place and time, and perhaps that is even one of the reasons actors loved it back in the old days. The scent may be designed to be what it is - strange and hard to fathom.

    I'm actually sniffing it right now - and thinking about how Japanese lady perfumer Akiko Kamei used smoke and yuzu in Caron's Le 3ème Homme - a scent that I have always loved. Perhaps that was a kind of heart-felt answer to Mitsouko. One thing I do know - the analogy helps me understand just how unisex Mitsouko is, if I approach it right. Right now, I get the chypre in a HUGE way, but for some reason it actually comes off masculine - as if there is a bit of spicy stuff in there - perhaps the resinous side mentioned by Jardanel, Dane and cacio.

    And RIGHT NOW - with the scent smelling so clear and beautiful - I totally understand NTesla becoming completely infatuated with Mitsouko.
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines
    Currently wearing: Wanted by Night by Azzaro

  9. #9

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    I first tried Mitsouko in the late 80s, my first love was Shalimar. Smelt gorgeous to me warm exotic sensual. It was only when I started going online in the early 00s that I started reading how difficult it was for so many. I then started calling it the Diva as if it worked for you glorious if it did not then a total bitch to try to make it work.

    For me, it was the wonder of how they got the peach to work without that weird plastic synthetic note that every other perfume with so-called peach was. I believe Guerlain's is C15 or C5?

    My last bottle of the edp is wonderful and I believe 2013? I did go batch check and it was considered on here an excellent year. Also, have the cube parfum also gorgeous and the dreads of my edt from the early 00s.

    Strangely if asked my favourite Guerlain I have now stated Mitsouko.
    DONNA

  10. #10

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    I got given my first bottle of Mitsouko by my sister
    for my 21st birthday way back in to early 1970's. It came
    in a beautiful white and blue canister and because I wasn't
    a "perfumista" then and didn't know about M's reputation, I wore
    her with no preconceived ideas. I found her strange and rather exotic
    with a definite French feel that made me seem all grown up and
    sophisticated (I actually wasn't!) I didn't know about the individual notes
    but I did love wearing her. I also wore vintage Jicky in the same era but found
    that one leaned more to the masculine side and was edgier.

    Jump forward to a few years ago and I tried Mitsouko again. Had she had a complete
    personality transplant or did my nose remember her differently? Where was the gorgeous
    oakmoss in the drydown? Why did she smell somewhat mustier and not quite so vibrant?
    I do wear the newer version but it doesn't thrill me like it used to. Does everything have to be dumbed down these days?
    Last edited by kewart; 10th January 2018 at 09:15 AM.
    A woman without perfume is like a flower without a scent.
    Currently wearing: Plum Japonais by Tom Ford

  11. #11

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    It's definitely an inscrutable perfume, Red, and I think your journey is similar to a lot of people's out there. By the way, I am honored that my review was part of your process of unlocking Mitsouko's mysteries. Looking back at 2014, when I wrote the review, I remember blind buying Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, and Chamade, and finding them all so weird and borderline unlikeable. I was just starting to be seriously interested in perfume, but these particular perfumes were too big and too complex for me. Mitsouko was, of course, the hardest nut of all to crack. I found that forcing this rather tough, impenetrable perfume into an "inappropriate for Mitsouko" setting like a hike or a hot n' heavy date night had the effect of breaking the scent down a little, making it easier to understand its various nuts and bolts. The emotional connection came later, much later. I really like your theory of the smoke and yuzu in Third Man being a mirror of the effect in Mitsouko. That makes sense to me. Le Troisieme Homme, although beautiful and affecting, has a rather stern, brusque side that makes it appear forbidding (and a bit sinister) to me. Something about it makes me feel solemn and grey when I wear it, a feeling that is similar (sometimes) to the mood I'm in when wearing Mitsouko.

    Dane, thanks for clarifying about the iris - that would of course make more sense as to why I am smelling a kind of cuir de russie effect in the 2016 Mitsouko EDP. The combination with the ylang really adds up to dusty, soapy horse saddle to me. Not that that's a bad association, of course - as a former equestrian, I am a natural lover of the cuir de russie type leathers.

    Donna, love your take on Shalimar versus Mitsouko. I remember Shalimar being a challenge too, but right now, I can't really imagine what it was I found so difficult. They say that Shalimar is for outgoing, blond, sensual people, and that Mitsouko is for reserved brunettes and redheads. So how does this account for the fact that I love and wear both? I say meh to the stereotypes - people are more than just one thing! I was born a brunette but am now blond, I used to be far more outgoing and sociable in my youth but now I am more reserved, quiet, and bookish. A person can be all of those things, all at the same time, can't they? So I feel like I have the right to slip into the skin of either Shalimar or Mitsouko as the mood takes me. But yes, if pushed, I'd say that Mitsouko is my favorite Guerlain, but I'm surprised that I've arrived at this point. Shalimar is a bit shocked too!

  12. #12
    Basenotes Junkie grayspoole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    762

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Such fascinating reflections on Mitsouko here! I also came to love Mitsouko by a circuitous route. After researching and collecting vintage perfumes for some time, of course I had to try Mitsouko, so I purchased a 2001 EDT and...I didn’t like it. Through misinterpretation of the name, I was expecting Mitsouko to be an “Oriental” perfume, something lush, balsamic, sultry. Instead, the EDT was a chypre (well...duh! you might say). Now, I love all chypres, including angular, green, bitter ones, but Mitsouko’s chypre structure was compromised, or so I thought at the time, by the addition of cloves and C14/Prunol (the “peach” that smells nothing like fresh peaches but like dried fruit leather or an ancient, dusty fruit pastille). And so, I didn’t wear Mitsouko.

    Fast forward to a summer’s day when we were taking a long car trip and I dressed in a hurry. At some point, as the complex bitter fruited fumes of Mitsouko wafted up from me, I realized “Oh no! I put on the Mitsouko!” (I think I was reaching blindly for my vintage Y EDT, in a tall skinny bottle vaguely similar the Mitsouko refill.) I believe I actually apologized to my family, who were in the car with me. As usual, they were bemused by my perfume talk but no one objected to the Mitsouko-scented atmosphere. As my panic subsided, and Mitsouko softened in the warm weather and revealed more seductive facets than before (I think I first tested it in the winter), I began to love Mitsouko (well..duh! once again, you are thinking).

    Since that thrilling day in perfume history, I have acquired a 1984 and a 2002 Mitsouko parfum, and I probably have enough Mitsouko. The vintage parfum turns into a richer incense than the vintage EDT, and I prefer it, but the way that the vivid bergamot opening of the EDT shades into the Prunol, oakmoss, and woods is still quite wonderful. The 1984 parfum might be better than the 2002, but that's just quibbling. I am curious about all of the recent Mitsouko reformulation/suspension drama but I haven’t had the opportunity to test and compare.
    Currently wearing: Métal by Paco Rabanne

  13. #13

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    It was pretty direct for me. Back in 2005-2006, a bunch of nice Guerlains were to be had for a song at the discount shops in Minnesota where I was living. I picked up Shalimar, Mitsouko, and Eau Legere all for tiny prices (around $20 each). I went back the next week and bought another Mitsouko, after opening and trying the first. It was love. She accompanied me to the opera and baseball games and fit right in wherever. She might be a bit self-absorbed, but she's not as stuffy as people think!
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.
    Currently wearing: Dune by Christian Dior

  14. #14

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Quote Originally Posted by ClaireV View Post
    Oof, the different versions, though. I swapped away my good 2014 EDP, missed it, and bought the 2016 one. Something about the bergamot is off - there is a smoky cuir de russie accord, with a strong, leathery ylang or something. It is very beautiful, but different to the harsh petrol-like vibe from the 2014 that I felt I was missing, an accord that smells a bit sour and gassy, like raw, warm rye bread dough on its second rising on a windowsill. The 2016 version is less offensively yeasty, but that opening, with its soapy, smoky ylang leather always makes me think I am smelling the wrong perfume. Funnily enough, a recent EDT is giving me pleasure!
    Good notes on the versions. I can't say I've exactly kept up (after all, I have the good stuff), but I was impressed by the 2017 EDT at EPCOT. it's almost right, and I would definitely wear it. I only do the EDT, though. I'd say I'm an EDT person more or less in general.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.
    Currently wearing: Dune by Christian Dior

  15. #15

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    I love this thread! Such interesting paths to Mitsouko.
    I was into perfumes for a while, but not ready for the complexity of Guerlain yet. I was seeking an evening scent, classy but not sweet. I discovered chypres, read The Turin and Sanchez guide, and decided I had to sample Mitsouko. Between the history and the description, I was so interested! I tried a sample and was blown away. Next chance I got to the big city, I picked up the extrait, and it’s been true love ever since. In fact, Mitsouko opened my eyes to the rest of the Guerlain classics. Also has resulted in me blowing lots of dolla bills on Guerlain.

    I now have a 2004 EdT, 2013 extrait, and a precious and powerfully mossy 1994 EdT. The extrait is so so easy to love.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    It took me a while to tame Mitsouko, the resinous note maybe. But I persisted because chypre are my favourites, Rochas Femme is probably my favourite scent ever. Funnily, I eventually gave up on other classic Guerlain (Jicky, L'heure bleue, Après l'Ondée) and could never warm to Shalimar. I also love Chant d'arômes (latest version is very weak unfortunately) and Samsara. I could easily wear Chamde, Nahema or Habit rouge. Anyway Mitsouko is my favourite now. The dry down is lovely.
    Currently wearing: Samsara by Guerlain

  17. #17

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Unexpectedly, Mitsouko was the first fragrance I liked and bought from Guerlain, a house I have a hard time understanding. I feel I've now started to scratch the surface a little, but when I first started developing an interest in perfume I didn't get it at all. I remember going to the Guerlain counter with a list of all the classics, and being utterly confused by most of them. I tried them all on paper (which may have been a mistake), and only Shalimar I "got" straight away, probably because I have smelled it before, but it's clearly not my style. Nahema and Samsara I did not like at all on paper, Chamade was ok, but not great, and Apres L'Ondee did not register in my brain at all back then. That left Mitsouko, which I could make heads nor tails of, but I did find it somewhat intriguing. The SA gave me a sample of the EdT, which I found myself coming back to over and over, and when the sample was finished I actually missed it and bought a bottle. Mitsouko is still coming into focus the more I wear it; a mysterious and melancholy beauty.

    My sister, on the other hand, seems to understand Guerlains much better than I do, and immediately bought herself a bottle when she first smelled Mitsouko on me. According to her it smells of autumn leaves.
    Currently wearing: No. 19 by Chanel

  18. #18

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Quote Originally Posted by yellowtone View Post
    Mitsouko is still coming into focus the more I wear it; a mysterious and melancholy beauty.
    Quite a few people describe Apres L'Ondee and Heure Bleue as melancholy. However, that description is lost on me. I do not find any perfume melancholy, but I do seem to reach for Mitsouko most often on grey, cool, misty or rainy days. Somehow, it seems apropos on such days, but I still do not think of such days or Mitsouko as being melancholy. Nature seems to be resting on those days--renewing herself as 'twere. It does not feel sad so much as it feels...well, eternal and somehow soothing. It is difficult for me to explain those days, but I do not dread them. On the contrary, I welcome them. They are restful, yet I would not describe Mitsouko as restful per se. It just seems to work well for me at such times.
    Fate gives all of us three teachers, three friends, three enemies, and three great loves in our lives. But these twelve are always disguised, and we never know which one is which until we've loved them, left them, or fought them.

    Gregory David Roberts

  19. #19

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    21,540

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    I guess the melancholy description for HB or AO is because they are probably the best examples of the Guerlain soft focus, plus they have iris and heliotropin, described by Turin as minor chords. It's not deep melancholy, more like a quiet haze. I do share the description a bit, especially for Apres l'ondee.

    cacio

  20. #20

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    I think we need a word other than melancholy to describe them. What should it be?

    Although it is one of my most favourite perfumes ever, and quite possibly the only one I would keep if forced to leave every other one behind, I find that I do not wear L'Heure Bleue very often, but I wore it this past week after a fairly long hiatus, and I fell head over heels in love all over again. L'Heure Bleue is pure magic, and I have been happily under her gorgeous, dreamy spell for some years now.
    Fate gives all of us three teachers, three friends, three enemies, and three great loves in our lives. But these twelve are always disguised, and we never know which one is which until we've loved them, left them, or fought them.

    Gregory David Roberts

  21. #21

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    I've really enjoyed reading everyone's experiences with Guerlain and Mitsouko! Mitsouko was an instant love for me. While I was in my late teens I was always searching for the deepest, darkest scent I could find. One day I discovered Guerlain, through Shalimar. It had the richness/roundness I was looking for, so I slowly began to explore the other Guerlains.

    I first came upon Mitsouko through the Parfum de Toilette, and it really felt like the deepest, darkest, most complete scent I had smelt. To me it smelled like a forest feels: deep, calm, mysterious, infinite. I fell in love immediately, and in the years after, Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue would alternate as my favourite Guerlain, depending on my mood. As I continued my perfume journey, though, I began to love Mitsouko more and more; I never tire of the perfection of its earthy and mossy notes mixed with its more intimate, skin-like nuances.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Quote Originally Posted by chypre View Post
    I've really enjoyed reading everyone's experiences with Guerlain and Mitsouko! Mitsouko was an instant love for me. While I was in my late teens I was always searching for the deepest, darkest scent I could find. One day I discovered Guerlain, through Shalimar. It had the richness/roundness I was looking for, so I slowly began to explore the other Guerlains.

    I first came upon Mitsouko through the Parfum de Toilette, and it really felt like the deepest, darkest, most complete scent I had smelt. To me it smelled like a forest feels: deep, calm, mysterious, infinite. I fell in love immediately, and in the years after, Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue would alternate as my favourite Guerlain, depending on my mood. As I continued my perfume journey, though, I began to love Mitsouko more and more; I never tire of the perfection of its earthy and mossy notes mixed with its more intimate, skin-like nuances.
    Coincidentally, a lovely lady gifted me a bottle of the PDT formulation this past week. I have not had the chance to try it yet, but I certainly look forward to wearing it on the next grey, rainy day. I am not sure how old is my bottle, but I would guess possibly 1980s as it is a splash bottle. I imagine it will smell very similar to the EDP.
    Fate gives all of us three teachers, three friends, three enemies, and three great loves in our lives. But these twelve are always disguised, and we never know which one is which until we've loved them, left them, or fought them.

    Gregory David Roberts

  23. #23

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Quote Originally Posted by Oriane View Post
    Coincidentally, a lovely lady gifted me a bottle of the PDT formulation this past week. I have not had the chance to try it yet, but I certainly look forward to wearing it on the next grey, rainy day. I am not sure how old is my bottle, but I would guess possibly 1980s as it is a splash bottle. I imagine it will smell very similar to the EDP.
    Wow, how generous of her, I hope you love it! I found it quite close to the vintage parfum myself, do let us know your impressions!

  24. #24

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    This describes bergamot to me - bitter citrus with a resious underbelly.
    It just occurred to me that Must de Cartier, when it first came out in the 1980's, and especially in its stronger concentrations, also had that bitter-powdery-dried citrus note to it. Must de Cartier was a little much for me at that point in time so I didn't wear it, and I do not like the current version at all. But I'm counting it in my personal tally as a parallel Mitsouko.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Two things jump out at me from this thread, namely that (a) many people find Mitsouko to be difficult at first but then move on to an enduring love, and (b) that experiences vary widely according to the concentration one first comes across. I was struck by Cacio's luck at being introduced to Mitsouko through the 1980's PDT, because that version is the deepest, mossiest, and even most "evilly Mitsouko" of them all. I struggled with the 2014 EDP version, finding it to be overwhelming and full of odd notes like stale peanut oil, unripe peaches in formaldehyde, etc. But once I discovered other versions, I discovered other sides to Mitsouko and found a way "in". For me, the gateway versions of Mitsouko were the cube perfume tester I lucked out on through eBay (voluptuous, golden peach, not as gassy/sour as the 2014 EDP) and a 1990's EDT tester all the way from Singapore (seller Xman who is a Basenoter) that still has oakmoss on the bottle (bright, spaced out, very little peach, mostly oakmoss and woods). A vintage umbrella parfum I acquired later shocked me with the still lurid brightness of its bergamot topnote. The pinnacle of the Mitsouko experience, though, remains for me the 1980's PDT. Oriane, you got VERY lucky!!!! It's Mitsouko in technicolor. Very 80's in volume, though, so apply conservatively!

    Edited to add this: there's a very useful thread (started by, I believe, Kotori?) that lists and talks about all the descendants of Shalimar. Perhaps we could do the same here. Jardanel's mention of finding Must de Cartier to have a Mitsouko-like bitterness/resinous citrus topnote made me wonder if we all come across Mitsouko's descendants every now and then, if even just a similar "feel". For example, I tested Iris 39 by Le Labo recently, and agree completely with Kotori's review which mention's a Mitsouko-like cassia or cinnamon note. I am not sure if it's a common note or more a similarly cool, remote, standoffish character (at least in the first half) that links them, but I think there's something there.

    More obvious contenders for status of Mitsouko descendants would be: Jubilation 25 (Amouage), Profumo (Acqua di Parma), Femme (Rochas), Shangri La (Hiram Green), Attrape-Coeur (Guerlain), 31 Rue Cambon (Chanel), Enlevement au Serail (Parfums MDCI), but maybe also Diorella and Parfum de Therese (in a way?). In terms of temperament, we could possibly add Onda (Vero Profumo) to the list, as well as Ella (Arquiste) for its green, sweaty floral chypre feel and ambergris drydown, and Kimonanthe (Diptyque), with its spicy, cooked peach note. Grayspoole and others, please chime in!
    Last edited by ClaireV; 17th January 2018 at 08:32 PM.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    I believe Mockingbird by Zoologist is similar, but with plum blossom (or is it plum?). Also, Encens Chypre by Sultan Pasha attars is sort of an homage to Mitsouko.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    ClaireV, I do consider myself honoured to receive such a wonderful gift or any gift for that matter because it is really the thought that counts.

    You think 31 RC is descendant of Mitsouko? Really? I do not find them similar at all. I have always suspected Madame Rochas may be similar, but I have never sniffed that one.

    I find Mitsouko to be one of the most unisex in Guerlain's stable. In fact, I often think it leans slightly more to the masculine end of the spectrum with L'Heure Bleue occupying the opposite end of the spectrum. I find 31 RC to be fairly unisex, too.
    Fate gives all of us three teachers, three friends, three enemies, and three great loves in our lives. But these twelve are always disguised, and we never know which one is which until we've loved them, left them, or fought them.

    Gregory David Roberts

  28. #28

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Quote Originally Posted by Oriane View Post
    ClaireV, I do consider myself honoured to receive such a wonderful gift or any gift for that matter because it is really the thought that counts.

    You think 31 RC is descendant of Mitsouko? Really? I do not find them similar at all. I have always suspected Madame Rochas may be similar, but I have never sniffed that one.

    I find Mitsouko to be one of the most unisex in Guerlain's stable. In fact, I often think it leans slightly more to the masculine end of the spectrum with L'Heure Bleue occupying the opposite end of the spectrum. I find 31 RC to be fairly unisex, too.
    Any discussion of the unisex-ability of Mitsouko always brings up, for me, the image of Sergei Diaghilev wearing it. Reportedly it was a favorite of his. Just imagine what Mitsouko must have smelled like in 1925! Those fur-collared coats he's always pictured in would have been permeated. Can't you just imagine him directing Nijinsky and wafting Mitsouko sillage all around?

  29. #29

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Oh yes! How wonderful. And now that you've mentioned Diaghilev, how can we not mention the Roja Dove! Agree thoroughly on it's unisexiness, by the way.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Creeping up on Mitsouko - my roundabout path

    Quote Originally Posted by Jardanel View Post
    Any discussion of the unisex-ability of Mitsouko always brings up, for me, the image of Sergei Diaghilev wearing it. Reportedly it was a favorite of his. Just imagine what Mitsouko must have smelled like in 1925! Those fur-collared coats he's always pictured in would have been permeated. Can't you just imagine him directing Nijinsky and wafting Mitsouko sillage all around?
    Yes, yes!!!
    Fate gives all of us three teachers, three friends, three enemies, and three great loves in our lives. But these twelve are always disguised, and we never know which one is which until we've loved them, left them, or fought them.

    Gregory David Roberts




Similar Threads

  1. I think I'm on a dangerous path here.
    By durf in forum Just Starting Out
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 18th August 2010, 09:02 AM
  2. Path to niche enlightenment?
    By Scentronic in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 15th August 2006, 12:50 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000