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  1. #1

    Default Absolute beginner to perfumery creation

    So I've recently been reading into the world of perfumery and I'm almost ready to make my first purchase from Perfumer's Apprentice. I've found another member that was kind enough to post his formulas online for his own fragrances. I'm going to use these as starting points for education before trying my own hand at making a fragrance. In his formulas he has things listed as EO, PO/FO, absolute, AC, and tincture (Essential Oil, Perfume Oil/Fragrance Oil, Aroma Chemical respectively). I was wondering how much of an impact it has if I substitute Fragrance Oils in instead of Essential Oils. Is there a noticeable difference in something simple like bergamot? My cart on Perfumer's Apprentice only has Fragrance Oils and Aroma Chemicals. I'll also be substituting absolutes with pre-made accords of the same fragrance. I understand that there might be different intensities to the scents as well as the tenacity.

    After I kind of have a grasp of these stuff I'm going to try to make a unisex Oriental inspired green tea scent. I'm thinking Green tea/white tea/lemon/pineapple top, White floral/Asian floral mids, Warm base of patchouli and amber. I plan on most of the scent to live in the mids but I have no idea how it will turn out since I'm uneducated. If anyone has some insight on estimated amounts of each that might help me from wasting a lot of oil. Any and all info is greatly appreciated! Oh first time poster here! Any recommendations on Aroma Chemicals is appreciated as well. There's literally too much to read on it and my brain is melting.

  2. #2
    Basenotes Plus
    pkiler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Southern California

    Default Re: Absolute beginner to perfumery creation

    Yes, lots to read, but keep at it. Your questions are legion, . . . .

    My first response to your proposed fragrance of teas and oriental base... well, you have the ultra light top, and the heaviest possible bottom. The vanilla will come up from the bottom all the way to the toppy tea...
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Absolute beginner to perfumery creation

    That is some great info right there. I was honestly afraid of that. So might need to re-evaluate the use of an amberish accord all together. Maybe I'll start off with something a little more simple like woody notes. Would you happen to know if essential Oils and fragrance oils are interchangeable?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Absolute beginner to perfumery creation

    Maybe I'll add a very small amount of a spice accord into it.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Absolute beginner to perfumery creation

    Quote Originally Posted by Vcburkh View Post
    Would you happen to know if essential Oils and fragrance oils are interchangeable?
    They are not.

    A fragrance oil may be a diluted essential oil or it may be a mixture but it is usually not disclosed what it is. I strongly suggest you stick to essential oils to learn perfumery. The formulas on that site are done by a professional who understands the limitations of fragrance oils and yes, essential oils are more expensive but that is perfuming.

  6. #6
    Super Member

    Join Date
    Jun 2015

    Default Re: Absolute beginner to perfumery creation

    invest money for buying e.o. and absolute,
    To know the real raw materials of reference.
    Forget the fragrances and perfumed oils.
    Study one by one by taking notes on the notes you hear...
    study and read and buy materials (naturals and A.C., )......
    start from the most important (for E.O./absolute : bergamot fcf,sandalwood, rose, Jasmine, cedarwood atlanta and virginia, vetiver, cistus, patchouli,oakmoss athranol free, vanilla bourbon,tonka beansetc,etc.etc... for A.C. iso e super, hedione, 2 or 3 ionones, galaxolide-habanolide-velvione-ethylen brassilate-exaltolide, ambroxan, ethyl linalol,PEA, hydroxycitronellal, sandalmysore core, cedramber, , etc,etc,etc,....for A.C. list is very long....)

  7. #7

    Default Re: Absolute beginner to perfumery creation

    If you research in other threads and understand the weakness of fragrance oils you will not use them. If you still want building blocks to play with then go to and buy her perfumery accords. Her pink pepper is amazeballs, the pineapple cognac is great, the herbal moss is addictive.

    I am going to leave a list of base note items I think could be appropriate to what you want to accomplish.
    raspberry ketone
    honey materials like phenyl acetic acid, phenethyl phenyl acetate
    For beginners, I recommend aldehydic accord or depending on how ambitious you are? Buy an assortment of your own, dilute them, and make your own appropriate accord.
    benzyl benzoate
    immortelle essential oil can be nice as it smells honey and herbal
    iso e super
    clear wood or high-quality patchouli
    white musks
    Vetiver bourbon
    phenethyl dimethyl carbinol

  8. #8

    Default Re: Absolute beginner to perfumery creation

    Thank you guys so much for the input! I'm going to get a combination of EO, PO, and AC. My original cart on perfumer's apprentice had a whole lot of things I wanted to tinker with but I think I'd be better off getting more expensive ingredients and trying to make something I'd wear. luckily I've found a few sites and even threads here that have info on ACs so I can break down what I'm going to order on my first batch. I'll keep you guys posted on what I order and what I'm trying to achieve. After I've had a little experience recreating a couple formulas and taking notes I'll try to create my own formula. If I can get something half decent I'll post my formula on here and hopefully help someone that is going through what I'm about to go through haha.

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