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  1. #1

    Default QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Issey Miyake)

    Everyone is welcome to test, discuss, reminisce, and generally wax lyrical (or not!).

    This is the thirty first week of a quest to test and discuss the top 100 (more or less) perfumes in The LIttle Book of Perfumes (Turin/Sanchez). There's a lot more information about the quest, lists of the perfumes, and an index to the weeks and perfumes we're covering on the stickied Week 1 thread.

    QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Index and Week 1 (Shalimar and Opium)

    NOTE: - We have a housekeeping thread if you'd like to contribute to choosing which perfumes are paired throughout the Quest:

    Turin/Sanchez Quest HOUSEKEEPING
    Last edited by Ebenas; 21st May 2018 at 10:02 AM.
    Currently wearing: Prima T by Bruno Acampora

  2. #2

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Le Feu D'Issey I'm flying blind here, I have no knowledge of this scent. I was kind of assuming it was a masculine, but it clearly isn't. I'm getting lactonic fruity floral, orange and synthetic rose to be precise. In fact, if I had had to guess the origins of this fragrance, I would have said Lauder; it smells very similar to some of the more modern Lauder's we've been trying lately, Beyond Paradise and the likes. That's unexpected!

    The milky-sour opening had me crinkle my nose. It reminds me of when I was a child and had to drink buttermilk because my mother was having a health phase and decided that buttermilk was blood cleansing, or something to that effect. We got it fresh from a farm, delivered by a man wearing socks in his Birkenstocks. It came in little buckets, it was thick and very lumpy, and I hated it. Sometimes, my mother would try to get me to drink it by mixing in a bit of fruit syrup, but in my opinion, that only made it worse. I still dislike milk/fruit combo's to this day, they make me queesy, but I digress.

    An hour or so in, the sourness makes way for sweetness and more flowers, but it keeps having a strongly synthetic vibe.

  3. #3

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Le Feu d'Issey is definitely a strange one, and interesting because of that. I agree with yellowtone, it is the combination of a sourish gourmand and a synthetic floral. The initial impression is tarte au citron, that is, lemon but also cake and cream. But an inedible tarte au citron, because it's covered in some synthetic clean floral. When thinking about the name, I must say there is some truth, because the perfume is indeed warm, but not warm and comforting like amber. Not one I wear often (also because I have very little of it), but one I really like to own. Too bad that the eau had such a big success, while the Feu disappeared. Kudos also for the bottle, impractical but good looking.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Cool Water is a classic aquatic aromatic, timeless and glad to have an original release bottle in my collection.
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  5. #5
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    I once paid waaay too much for a sample of Feu d'Issey that I'm about 99.9% sure was off. It wasn't just weird, milky, synthetic, or whatever--it smelled like an aromachemical disaster, and then it disappeared. FWIW, deadidol (who I think knows his stuff) says in his review that FdI uses a truly remarkable amount of what appears to be real sandalwood-and I've always wondered if that might have contributed to its quick demise.

    Cool Water, on the other hand--it's so ubiquitous and so widely copied that I don't even know if I'm smelling it or something like it. Aquatics aren't quite as common as they used to be (although it seems like we're seeing something of a renaissance lately), so I don't catch whiffs of it like I used to. The men in my family were always fougere and oriental guys, and I never dated anyone who used it, so I don't have an intimate acquaintance with it. I probably need to revisit at some point just for reference.
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  6. #6

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    I agree that Cool water is a classic. Aquatic but balanced with aromatics. Not something I'd wear myself, but good and important. Unfortunately the next step was pure aquatic with tons of calone and what not.

    diamondsea:
    your description sounds like it was an off sample for sure. Strange as it is, it's not a chemical mess.

  7. #7
    The Devil in the Details
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Le Feu d'Issey is certainly the more unicorny of the two, but probably also the most interesting. Creed Green Irish Tweed might be the first fresh aquatic-like scent, but it was niche (back then) and very high-end, so Cool Water ends up as the de facto origin of the species for aquatics. What can I say that hasn't already been? It literally smells like cool water through what I'm sure is an arcane use of what were then cutting-edge synthetics. Meanwhile CK took that ball and ran with it while Davidoff tried to vary it up in later compositions, but before we knew it, everything was as clean, ascetic, linear, and to-the-point as Cool Water. We've never fully recovered from that pendulum swing, even if we do finally have more diversity in men's offerings than we had through much of the 90's and 00's. Thanks Cool Water.
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  8. #8
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Must find my sample
    Of my little unicorn
    Called Le Feu d'Issey!
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
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  9. #9

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Cool Water fits squarely into my two least favorite fragrance families: fougŤres and aquatics so, on paper, I should dislike it. However, I have a sentimental attachment to this fragrance because it was one of the 2 fragrances my husband wore when I met him. I never really warmed up to it on him unless he wore it in very dry, hot weather, where it becomes surprisingly sexy. He has now moved on to better things (I may have had something to do with that), but when he does break out this blue bottle every now and then it does bring back fond memories of those early days.

    Trying it on myself for the first time is weird, I'm not supposed to smell like this! The aquatic notes are less prominent on me, and I get more of the herbal sweetness.

  10. #10

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    I tested Cool Water at an Ulta rather recently as part of this quest and it was clearly an off bottle. Iíll try again as I find it. Definitely an important piece of work, it has an opacity that the newer aquatics donít have. I always enjoyed smelling it on guys when I was younger and I appreciated guys who wore it or one of its many copies rather than some of the invasive ones like Drakkar Noir. I remember my youth area always reeking of one of these two.

    The only time it was in our house growing up was as the feminine version on one of my brotherís longtime girlfriends. She also wore Tommy Girl. I remember Cool Water for women as similar, but fruitier. Anyway, I guess we werenít really aquatics people. We courted orientals, mostly.

    Notably, I love and and body washes with names like Waterfall, which are clear descendants of Cool Water.

    I feel like Cool Water is the aquatic prototype that launched a thousand aquatics...
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  11. #11

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Quote Originally Posted by thediamondsea View Post
    I once paid waaay too much for a sample of Feu d'Issey that I'm about 99.9% sure was off. It wasn't just weird, milky, synthetic, or whatever--it smelled like an aromachemical disaster, and then it disappeared. FWIW, deadidol (who I think knows his stuff) says in his review that FdI uses a truly remarkable amount of what appears to be real sandalwood-and I've always wondered if that might have contributed to its quick demise.
    I also paid too much for a clearly stale sample which was just about empty. It was one of only two times I’ve gotten a refund from an eBay seller. I’m not sure what it was supposed to smell like, but what I’m getting is a sour milk oriental fougere with a weird off top note that was probably fruity at some point. Ew.

    It dries down to maple syrup, sandalwood, and baby vomit.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  12. #12
    Dependent thediamondsea's Avatar
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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Quote Originally Posted by Kotori View Post
    I also paid too much for a clearly stale sample which was just about empty. It was one of only two times I’ve gotten a refund from an eBay seller. I’m not sure what it was supposed to smell like, but what I’m getting is a sour milk oriental fougere with a weird off top note that was probably fruity at some point. Ew.

    It dries down to maple syrup, sandalwood, and baby vomit.
    Yum!

    My sample was also nearly empty. Hmmm. Tbh, I tried it soooo long ago (after I first read the Guide, but before I joined Basenotes) that I can't remember much in particular except that even then I knew what perfume that had turned smelled like. I've often wanted to revisit it, but as unicorns go, it's fairly low on my priority list. FWIW. I do see a little new old stock come and go on eBay. Also, isn't there something like an Eau version (Eau de Feu d'Issey?)? Actually, I think it's a legere, or something like that. It appears to be marginally easier to find. Has anyone smelled that? And, ultimately, of those of you that have, do you agree with LT's assessment of its greatness? (Also, LT says that Etro's Etra smells like a somewhat less compelling version of Feu. I haven't smelled it, either, but I've always kinda wondered. Cacio, can you speak to this?)
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  13. #13

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    The eau de feu d'issey, or whatever is called, has a little of the structure of the feu, but lighter and covered in a light aquatic mix. Not bad, but it's not a substitute for the real thing. I have not tried Etra-so that sounds interesting. I remember smelling a Jo Malone of the English dessert line, lemon tart or something like it,

    Sour milk oriental fougere could well be a description of Feu. But not the off note on the top.

  14. #14

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    I have been a pretty slack quester over the last few weeks - combination of work (thesis almost there!) and travel. Luckily I tried Le Feu D'Issey a while ago (thanks to cacio!), and had the sense to note my impressions, so I guess that's half my homework... (cut and pasted)

    I didn't think I'd get to try this one - it's been discontinued for ages.

    It goes on sweet and fruity syrupy - something like mango/pineapple, but not in that awful thin fake fruity smell I smell everywhere. It wouldn't be an instant love for me on the opening, but I'll wait and see!

    A few moments later, I'm getting the rose now - and the creamy feeling. It's something like Turkish delight and opal fruits in cream, and a little like soft chewy rhubarb and custard sweets from my childhood. I guess it's a fruity rose. It has a certain shampoo smell, but richer and deeper. It's a delicious oddball

    Next morning, I can still smell some sweetish creamy woods with a strong note of crumbly sandalwood.
    Currently wearing: Prima T by Bruno Acampora

  15. #15

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Currently wearing: Prima T by Bruno Acampora

  16. #16

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    I used to own Etra by Etro. I don't think it's very similar to Feu d'Issey, but then again, my sample has clearly turned.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  17. #17

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    Cool Water

    Smells well blended but far too fougere shrieky for me, sadly.
    Currently wearing: Prima T by Bruno Acampora

  18. #18

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 31: Cool Water (Davidoff) and Le Feu d'Issey (Miyake)

    If it’s shrieky, it might have gone off. That happens to the Cool Water testers a lot these days.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

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