Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 30 of 30
  1. #1
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    I have four samples from the Memo house:

    1. French Leather;
    2. Italian Leather;
    3. Russian Leather; and
    4. Shams Oud.

    Spraying fragrances from this house on paper in the shops, I liked them, but it was too much to absorb because there are so many of them, and I'd heard so little about them. One of my favorite perfume shops, Osswald, in New York City, gave me these samples, which I appreciate, and I wanted to make a thread with collected thoughts and impressions.

    Will sampling on skin at home confirm or debunk the positive impressions from sampling on paper in the shops?
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  2. #2

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    always best to sample on skin if possible

    Memo isn't a favourite House of mine though -- I find them totally overpriced for what they are (a notch above 'designer' imo)

    Good luck if you like them

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    19,916

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    I tested some at Osswald (and elsewhere too), and liked them as well. I think that skin will confirm your impression. That said, nothing of what I smelled was good enough to make me want to buy any, at those prices at least. In other words, nothing had enough sparkle or originality over an already crowded field. I think my favorite was African leather, but I don't remember the details.
    cacio

  4. #4
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    I've started with French Leather. The opening is nice. I am liking it.

    I'm always on the lookout for harsh, synthetic woods that I know will ruin something for me over time, if not during the first wearing. There is a slight risk of harsh, synthetic woods, a cedar-type smell in this case, keeping me from fully embracing this.

    "Cedar Essence" is listed as a note in the card - I like that the card agrees with what I thought I was smelling! Rose is the next note catching my attention.

    Here's the full list from the card: Lime, Pink Pepper, Juniper, Rose, Clary, Cedar, Styrax, Vetiver, Musk, Suede Accord.

    The name is French Leather, but the listed note is Suede Accord. I think I like it. It smells like human skin, clean and sweet, with just a touch of light sweat.

    Thumbs up for the opening. I've had it on less than an hour, and I'll update with impressions from later in the wearing, but it's been good so far. It's not mind blowing, but it's impressively agreeable, tasty even.

    Update: The cedar note (harsh synthetic woods) is coming close to ruining this for me. I like the rose and the suede, but I think I'll have to give it an upbeat neutral instead of a thumbs up. There are moments when the cedar is in place, it fits, and the fragrance works, and other moments when the cedar is all I smell, and it's not much better than wearing something like Dior Sauvage.

    Into the base, the rose starts smelling green, in a way that's interesting.

    Deeper into the base, the cedar has mostly burned off (yay!) and it's a nice rose fragrance.
    Last edited by Bavard; 15th May 2018 at 08:16 PM.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  5. #5
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    a notch above 'designer' imo
    I get on ok with designer fragrances, a bunch of them at least, so that almost reads as an endorsement to me.

    Anything overpriced is annoying, though, no question. I can get 100 ml of Egoiste for less than $100, so I like something that can compete at that level, or nearly so. Paying $150 for smaller production "niche" is ok, but much more than that can lose appeal.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  6. #6

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I get on ok with designer fragrances, a bunch of them at least, so that almost reads as an endorsement to me.
    Yes -- I sound like a snob but it was more related to the prices Memo feel fit to charge in comparison with 'designer' products

  7. #7
    Missing Oakmoss

    Bonnette's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    1,926

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    I've only smelled two of the ones on your list, Italian Leather and French leather. I thought they were nice, but not outstanding (have also smelled their Irish Leather, with the same response). They are well done, I just wouldn't choose them over other leathers.

  8. #8
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    Yes -- I sound like a snob but it was more related to the prices Memo feel fit to charge in comparison with 'designer' products
    Which I understand. I typically keep myself blissfully unaware of the pricing of things I'm sampling, as in this case.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  9. #9
    Basenotes Plus

    Cook.bot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Carolinas
    Posts
    2,960

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    About two years ago I got a huge discovery set from Memo (18 samples, twice what I'd ordered!) that included everything they made at the time. Not a single one of them inspired me to go back and test it a second time, especially after I saw their pricing: $4/ml at retail. Maybe I'll break out that set and follow along with you on this thread a bit and give them another try.

  10. #10
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Maybe I'll break out that set and follow along with you on this thread a bit and give them another try.
    Yes, please! Notes on these four would be great. I'm bummed about the cedar note in French Leather. It's stronger than the other notes, and keeps coming forward to spoil the fun. The rose and the suede are interesting, but they're getting drowned out.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  11. #11
    Basenotes Institution
    sjg3839's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    37,728

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Out of the one's I sampled, I really enjoyed Irish Leather. Nice berry note in that one.
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26148387.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26148387-7393.jpg"> Carven L'Eau Intense by Carven</a></div>

  12. #12
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Reside in McLean, Va., Manhattan NYC, Manuel Antonio Costa Rica & Búzios Brasil
    Posts
    241,892

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post

    Will sampling on skin at home confirm or debunk the positive impressions from sampling on paper in the shops?
    Should confirm. You were given samples of all nice ones IMO. Happen to own them all.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  13. #13
    Dependent Diddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Bayou Country
    Posts
    3,772

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    I've enjoyed Irish Leather, Italian Leather, and Eau de Memo of the few I've tried. I tried Luxor Oud, which has a nice berry note, but it wasn't very memorable for me. OK but nothing special. I also like the berry note in Irish Leather. Italian Leather has one of the most enjoyable vanilla notes I've encountered, and I'm not much of a vanilla fan due to it mostly being presented like a cheap vanilla candle. And Eau de Memo, while pedestrian by BN standards, was a very enjoyable clean fragrance. It is a fresh leather that is wearable in my hot humid climate. FWIW, I've been complimented every time I've worn Eau de Memo, unsolicited and by people other than friends and family. It is easy for most people to enjoy, and simply smells nice. Overall, I'd say that the house produces nice fragrances. I'll likely buy a full bottle of Eau de Memo and split an Italian Leather with someone. I haven't smelled the entire line but that's my thoughts thus far. Value will be subjective to each individual. For me, if I like something and can afford it, I will purchase with no regrets.

  14. #14
    Dependent RedRaider430's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    5,698

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    I bought 4 Memos after sampling, including African Leather, Italian Leather, Irish Leather and Shams Oud. I wound up selling the Irish Leather because I found it too similar to Italian Leather, and I couldn't justify owning both of them.

    I didn't really find any of their "leather" scents to be a conventional leather smell. They definitely have leather in them, but they all seem to be blended well with the other notes and take off in their own direction. I didn't think "leather" was a particularly fitting name for any of them.

    I love the tomato leaf note of Italian Leather. It sounds like a strange note to use in perfumery, but I found it very pleasant and definitely different. It smells like....well, a tomato leaf! I found it delightful. I have nothing else like it.

    African Leather is probably one of their most sampled/popular scents....at least, I would think. It's a warm, sweet and spicy scent that some might interpret as a little gourmandish. People either seem to really like this one, or not. It's one of my favorites. I always enjoy it when I wear it.

    Shams Oud also seems to be one of Memo's most popular scents...based on reviews. Seems like all the reviews are at least semi-positive. It's another warm, rich and spicy scent, and much more friendly and wearable than many ouds. I mainly enjoy wearing it in cooler weather.

    As far as prices, yes, they are rather expensive, and that is precisely why everyone should buy them from an authorized dealer in France.
    Basenotes sales: Tiffany for Men Concen, de Bachmakov, Atelier Vetiver Fatal, Tiffany for Men mini, 17 Cuba Paris frags, L'Essence de Cerruti, Reyane Insurrection, numerous popular SAMPLES! http://www.basenotes.net/threads/419...ples-amp-More!

    Crystal Flacon sales: Prelude to Love, Noir de Noir, SAMPLES! http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=626
    Currently wearing: Blend 30 by Dunhill

  15. #15

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    About two years ago I got a huge discovery set from Memo (18 samples, twice what I'd ordered!) that included everything they made at the time. Not a single one of them inspired me to go back and test it a second time, especially after I saw their pricing: $4/ml at retail. Maybe I'll break out that set and follow along with you on this thread a bit and give them another try.
    I wouldn't bother. Been there, done that, didn't care for any of them enough to revisit either.

    There was a horrible synthetic base running through all of the samples I tried, and like RedRaider, I didn't find the leathers merited the title. I've smelled more leather in a bouncy castle.

    On the plus, their presentation is nice.
    Last edited by Suspended; 16th May 2018 at 03:08 PM.
    Currently wearing: Jicky by Guerlain

  16. #16
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Italian Leather - This 2013 release has a nice initial blast that reinforces the brand's reputation for nice openings that smell good on paper in the shop. Fairly quickly on skin, it has moved on to the woody aroma chemical that reminds me of roasted peanut butter. I have smelled it in half a dozen perfumes or more - the one I always remember is Olympic Orchids Woodcut (2014). At this point, less than five minutes in, it feels like a one-trick fragrance, and my interest is minimal. I'll see how it develops.

    Update: Wearing this longer, it reminds me of the Xerjoff fragrances that smell similar to each other, from the Join the Club line, for example, which I don't like. Memo has managed to replicate the Xerjoff signature, or Xerjoffinade. (I'm thinking of Xerjoffs such as Richwood, Ivory Route, 40 Knots, Comandante, and Naxos.)

    The base is inoffensive, sweet vanilla.

    I could almost give this a thumbs down, but the base smells so harmless, I gave it a neutral.
    Last edited by Bavard; 17th May 2018 at 02:59 PM.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  17. #17

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    it feels like a one-trick fragrance, and my interest is minimal. I'll see how it develops.
    This! I found there was no development, just that hummmm, like a perfume version of white noise.

    Bavard, do you detect any leather in their leathers?
    Currently wearing: Jicky by Guerlain

  18. #18
    Basenotes Plus

    Cook.bot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Carolinas
    Posts
    2,960

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Italian Leather -
    it has moved on to the woody aroma chemical that reminds me of peanut butter. I have smelled it in half a dozen perfumes or more
    I'd love to know which WAC achieves that effect. Maybe someone in the DIY forum would know.

  19. #19
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Quote Originally Posted by Suspended View Post
    This! I found there was no development, just that hummmm, like a perfume version of white noise.

    Bavard, do you detect any leather in their leathers?
    From French Leather and Italian Leather, the two I've tried, I can imagine the listed suede accord in French Leather, during the first hour, but Italian Leather does not strike me as a leather fragrance.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  20. #20

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Thanks for sharing the impressions with us, so far having had some of the best experiences from this house, aside from the ones already mentioned, with Siwa, Lalibela, Kedu, Inle, Luxor Oud and Moon Safari, all repeatedly tested on skin rather then on paper

  21. #21
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Russian Leather - This is much more of a classic-smelling men's fragrance, a fougere, or lavender fragrance, although they specify that it uses lavandin rather than lavender. Again, the best part was the first few seconds. After that, it's complex and challenging, which can be useful, but it's too sharp-smelling, harsh even, for my tastes. I can imagine a hint of leather, in the background.

    I am impressed by how different French Leather, Italian Leather, and Russian Leather have been from each other. That diversity is not something I had picked up on in the shops. Of these three, French Leather is my preference. Even with the cedar note that bothers me, French Leather had a nice first hour and was far more unique and innovative, in my experience. I think I'm going to give Italian Leather and Russian Leather thumbs down.

    Update: Thumbs down would be too harsh. They're nice in the top, have rough moments during development, but they have some good moments in the base.

    I eventually appreciated Russian Leather quite a bit more than Italian Leather, and almost as much as French Leather.
    Last edited by Bavard; 16th May 2018 at 09:21 PM.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  22. #22
    Dependent RedRaider430's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    5,698

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Basenotes is a continual testament to how we all smell things totally differently.

    Italian Leather.....roasted peanut butter? It's as if you are describing a totally different fragrance from what I smell.

    Russian Leather and French Leather were two of my least favorites among the "leathers". Russian I didn't like at all, and French was much too feminine for my nose. I ruled both of those out immediately.

    Well, hednic, looks like it's still just you and me that like this house.
    Basenotes sales: Tiffany for Men Concen, de Bachmakov, Atelier Vetiver Fatal, Tiffany for Men mini, 17 Cuba Paris frags, L'Essence de Cerruti, Reyane Insurrection, numerous popular SAMPLES! http://www.basenotes.net/threads/419...ples-amp-More!

    Crystal Flacon sales: Prelude to Love, Noir de Noir, SAMPLES! http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=626
    Currently wearing: Blend 30 by Dunhill

  23. #23
    Basenotes Plus

    remik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    The Internet Tubes
    Posts
    6,504

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Nah, you are not the only two - let me join you guys - I like this house, too.

    I've tried Italian, French and African Leather, Shams Oud, and Kedu. I loved the novelty of the tomato leaf, it's very well done and smells super natural, but ultimately I didn't want to smell like a green tomato plant. I really don't get the peanut butter comment - I suspect the poster may have had a bad sample, or completely wrong sample. French Leather was nice on first spray and the first 30 minutes, I almost bought a bottle on the spot, but then it turned super rosy on me - and you know how I feel about rose (or rather - how my SO feels about anything with rose - I'm basically forbidden from wearing rose scents).

    So that leaves African Leather and Shams Oud, which I love and own both, and think they are both great.

    I've tried Kedu a while back from a sample either Josie @OsswaldNYC or LuckyScent sent me, and the only thing I remember is my little note I wrote down - I liked the fresh and light flowery tone and the sesame note, but I honestly do not remember much more than that now. I should still have this sample somewhere here - I'll look for it and give it another go.
    Currently wearing: Vétiver by Christian Dior

  24. #24

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    I don't know about the whole line because I haven't tried them yet, but I do have Quartier Latin from this house. I got a sample of it in an order from somewhere and I'm really pleased that I did. It got under my skin and I bought it. It's a fragrance that I really value in my collection because it's a beautiful example of wood all the way. It smells both natural and synthetic at the same time. Interestingly it really doesn't have that bullish, screechy, nails on a blackboard synthetic woody dry down. The absence of that is notable. It has a very convincing sandalwood note too. I really like it.

  25. #25
    Newbie
    Diamondflame's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    12,603

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    I own and enjoy Russian Leather for its old-school Polo-like vibes and Irish Leather for its green, aromatic take on the leather genre. I still can’t find the leather though. And there is something undeniably synthetic in the backbones that grates on my nerves a little, almost similar to those I find on Bond No.9s.

    I like Moon Fever and Kedu too but I’m kinda wary of the house’s base. I gotta agree with Kaern about its ‘just a notch above designer’ status, scent-wise. Their price tags came as a shock.

    Comparable to Xejoff? Nope. Not even close.

  26. #26
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Shams Oud - This is a nice, modern woods fragrance. This one bucks the trend of losing its best moments within the first minute. This opens up and gets nicer after a few minutes. The listed notes include pepper, ginger, and saffron, giving it some spicy bite; cashmeran, tonka, and labdanum, giving it some sweetness; and the oud accord which is coming across as a nice wood (but nothing like oud as I know it).

    This is reminding me of something (or more than one thing) that I can't place. Patchouli is not listed in the notes on the card, but to me it has the character a woods and patchouli fragrance. The wood note in this is nice. The sweetness is barely there, it's more woods and spice, but the sweetness is adding to its softness and roundness. (At moments, the sweetness smells more forward, and throws off the balance, detracting from the smoky woods).

    This is slightly smoky in a nice way. It's one of the most easily wearable fragrances I've tried that's marketed as Oud. Thumbs up.

    I would recommend this, memory permitting, to someone looking for a smoky wood fragrance, and could imagine it working its way into the rotation if I had a bottle (subject to further testing to see if the sweetness in this is too much).
    Last edited by Bavard; 17th May 2018 at 04:02 PM.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  27. #27
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    That finishes my Memo house sampling. It's quite different from the impression I had in the shop where I felt they were similar to each other. These smell nothing like each other. Shams Oud is the only one I'm interested in wearing again, and I gave it a thumbs up, although I think it could be better with slightly less sweetness, if that could be done without changing anything else. The other samples are destined to go unfinished and I gave them neutrals. I did like the first hour of French Leather, and I thought Russian Leather became ok after some development. Italian Leather was a mix of things I don't like, except the vanilla base which was ok.

    Order of Preference
    1. Shams Oud
    2. French Leather
    3. Russian Leather
    4. Italian Leather
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  28. #28
    Dependent RedRaider430's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    5,698

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Don't know if it's your kind of fragrance, but I'd be interested in hearing what you think of African Leather, too. If I had to guess, I'd say that's probably their most popular one.
    Basenotes sales: Tiffany for Men Concen, de Bachmakov, Atelier Vetiver Fatal, Tiffany for Men mini, 17 Cuba Paris frags, L'Essence de Cerruti, Reyane Insurrection, numerous popular SAMPLES! http://www.basenotes.net/threads/419...ples-amp-More!

    Crystal Flacon sales: Prelude to Love, Noir de Noir, SAMPLES! http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=626
    Currently wearing: Blend 30 by Dunhill

  29. #29
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
    Bavard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    4,580

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    Quote Originally Posted by RedRaider430 View Post
    Don't know if it's your kind of fragrance, but I'd be interested in hearing what you think of African Leather, too. If I had to guess, I'd say that's probably their most popular one.
    I'd be curious to try it. It's nice to see a line generating interest and discussion. The three leathers I tried are similar in name and packaging only, so I wouldn't have an idea what to expect from African Leather.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  30. #30
    Moderator

    cazaubon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Montréal and San Diego
    Posts
    4,107

    Default Re: Sampling fragrances from the Memo house

    I have five from this house: Irish Leather (a gift, probably wouldn’t have bought it for myself), Granada (also a gift), Shams Oud, Quartier Latin and Manoa. The Manoa is a very nice opoponax scent, well worth sampling. I like their French Leather Rose scent (presumably French Leather with the rose amped up) but the price is totally ridiculous, over $700 USD, which I would never pay. African Leather was my favourite of the regular leather series. Overall I don’t find the house too compelling, most of them have a base I don’t care for, plus the price is too high for me to justify.

Similar Threads

  1. [International] Memo, LM Parfums, House of Matriarch
    By RarePerfume in forum Items for Sale
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 22nd March 2018, 07:10 PM
  2. House of MEMO
    By salim96 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 18th July 2017, 11:54 AM
  3. Niche House Sampling Suggestions
    By SmellyFinger in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 21st June 2014, 01:12 PM
  4. Keiko Mecheri -- Which Fragrances in This House Are Worth Sampling
    By Scentfanatic1631 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 12th January 2013, 03:32 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000