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  1. #31

    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    Every month I see at least half a dozen new 'niche' lines. More often than not, there are 'note dominant' scents: patchouli, a rose, an amber, a musk, a vetiver - you know what I mean. Many of these smell alright, but where is the complexity?

    I was just thinking of vintage Patou pour Homme, and marvelling at the complexity of it. How all the individual notes are seamlessly blended. Ditto for so many of the classics - Habit Rouge, Heritage, Bandit, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Kouros, Bel Ami.

    Where are those incredibly complex blends today that create something more than the sum of their parts? I can think of a few such as M, New York Intense (well, this borrows the structure of New York so it already has an advantage) and Une Fleur de Cassie.

    I tried Habit Rouge Dress Code today, such a muddled mess next to Habit Rouge!

    Perceiving similar layers and levels of complexity in the deceptively simple and strong One Man Show-especially the vintage version but still available inexpensively today, as much as in Furyo by the same house or Ungaro II by another one
    Currently wearing: L'Occitan by L'Occitane

  2. #32

    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nastka View Post
    [...] (consensus is that Mitsuoko and Jicky have been improved?) [...]
    Sorry, but you gotta be kidding...

  3. #33

    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by smeller View Post
    Sorry, but you gotta be kidding...
    She did say (in effect) "compared to five years ago".
     Sale: Vintage masculines, feminines. (New items added Fri. 5/25) 
    This year's sale has drawn to a close. I hope to have another next year. Thanks to all who made purchases, and to those who dropped by for a look.

  4. #34

    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by RoRo View Post
    She did say (in effect) "compared to five years ago".
    Oh, my bad! I see now, I'm trully sorry. Thank you for pointing my misreading.

    I'm still very sceptic about today's Jicky and Mitsouko, but kudos for Guerlain. The bar was set very high for these and many other classics. If their current versions can still impress us basenoters, that's remarkable.

  5. #35

    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by smeller View Post
    Oh, my bad! I see now, I'm trully sorry. Thank you for pointing my misreading.

    I'm still very sceptic about today's Jicky and Mitsouko, but kudos for Guerlain. The bar was set very high for these and many other classics. If their current versions can still impress us basenoters, that's remarkable.
    You make a good point in that last sentence.
    In fact, I haven't smelled the current versions of Jicky or Mitsouko. I do know that Natska is not the first to comment that the latest reformulation of Mitsouko is a noticeable improvement. Now I'm curious to smell both.

  6. #36
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    If anyone is looking for vintage style scents as regards Guerlainesque complexity combined with the quality of high-end naturals I can only repeat my recommendation of Annette Neuffer. This is the kind of stuff that keeps me in perfume. I interviewed her on basenotes a while ago, but there wasn't much resonance at the time.
    A sample pass could be in order.

  7. #37
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    I was shocked when I found out how much better perfume used to be (and thrilled to pick up a bunch of older perfume, roughly 1996 and earlier), but I've gotten used to it, and I sometimes encounter more recent fragrances that are nice. Percentage-wise, it seems much harder to find interesting newer releases or reformulations that are on par, but there's an element of a hunt to it that's fun. I am interested in trying to familiarize myself more with the current market, which is huge, to know where the best perfumes are coming from. It helps that I already have enough favorite vintage fragrances to last me a lifetime.

  8. #38
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I was shocked when I found out how much better perfume used to be (and thrilled to pick up a bunch of older perfume, roughly 1996 and earlier), but I've gotten used to it, and I sometimes encounter more recent fragrances that are nice. Percentage-wise, it seems much harder to find interesting newer releases or reformulations that are on par, but there's an element of a hunt to it that's fun. I am interested in trying to familiarize myself more with the current market, which is huge, to know where the best perfumes are coming from. It helps that I already have enough favorite vintage fragrances to last me a lifetime.
    I think that this is much my view on the subject.
    Scarcity is an illusion. Unlearn it.
    Currently wearing: Ultima II by Ultima II

  9. #39
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    It helps that I already have enough favorite vintage fragrances to last me a lifetime.

    Probably true for me as well, but that terrified little voice inside me keeps crying out "But...but what if I live longer than expected, and I run out of Diorama before I run out of heartbeats?!?"

  10. #40
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    ...that terrified little voice inside me keeps crying out "But...but what if I live longer than expected, and I run out of Diorama before I run out of heartbeats?!?"
    Horrible thought! How many bottles of Diorella do you have? If only one, best to buy another. I know I'm profligate, but when I find two bottles of a glorious vintage at do-able prices, I quite often buy both. Even the fantasist in me who imagines living to be 120 can relax, and the approaching-70 me can feel good about wearing what I love.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    "But...but what if I live longer than expected, and I run out of Diorama before I run out of heartbeats?!?"
    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    Horrible thought!
    I know!

    Imagine the scene in the doctor's office: "Well, Ms. Cook.bot, it's only a small tumor, and we believe that with a brief course of treatment you'll be right as rain and good for many more years."

    Me: "Nope, sorry Doc, no therapies for me. I expect my last 60mls of Diorama to be gone by the end of this year, and I'm going with it."

  12. #42
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Imagine the scene in the doctor's office: "Well, Ms. Cook.bot, it's only a small tumor, and we believe that with a brief course of treatment you'll be right as rain and good for many more years."

    Me: "Nope, sorry Doc, no therapies for me. I expect my last 60mls of Diorama to be gone by the end of this year, and I'm going with it."
    LOL! I almost made a joke along those lines in my earlier post. Exactly!

  13. #43

    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    As a lover of vintage perfumes, their sophistication and complexity. I think the problem lies in the industry itself; in the new trends in perfumery such as gourmands, aquatics and sport scents, which opened the doors to hundreds of similar products, with mediocre outputs, that consequently reflected on guiding the tastes of the consumers to praise mediocrity, also the booming, unstoppable, nonreactive marketing trending towards ''flankers'' along with false labeling of ''Eau de perfume'' and ''Intense''; that in many cases you find them weaker than the original or non related to the original Item, also the excessive use of Oud, to the extent that made it predictably accepted to any perfume to be followed by an oud based flanker, in older days it would take more than five years or longer for any brand to produce their new item, nowadays it is minimized to weeks that also led great noses to participate in creating more over of the same uninspired products.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    I don't buy nor seek out vintage scents for the most part as many Basenoters do, but have so many in my collection simply because I'm old and bought them back in the 50s, 60s and 70s when they first appeared and have maintained them until today. Love them all, wouldn't want to be without them, and they have and hold a special place in my collection.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  15. #45
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    I don't buy nor seek out vintage scents for the most part as many Basenoters do, but have so many in my collection simply because I'm old and bought them back in the 50s, 60s and 70s when they first appeared and have maintained them until today. Love them all, wouldn't want to be without them, and they have and hold a special place in my collection.
    Yes, exactly the same here. I reached a time when my children had gone out into the world that I could afford to spend some money on things for myself, and having a lifelong love of perfume I started to buy things people were reviewing well at the time (having realized around 2000 that my personal favorites were no longer touching me in their modern formulae) I spent more money and time than I care to recall before I came to terms with the fact that I don't liked all that many post-millenial fragrances. I was spoiled by the time in my life that I kept house for a wealthy perfumista who generously allowed me to test all of her treasures, as well as giving me many small flacons of extraits and so on that I would never have known otherwise. I don't like the hunt, and having lived through the 70s I don't see it as a romantic time - but I love the chypres, orientals and floral aldehydics women wore in my time. Thank goodness for BaseNotes, the Internet, Raiders of the Lost Scent; now I look in my perfume closet each day and say "You're so lucky".

    I'm happy when I do find modern perfumes that I can love for sure. There just aren't as many of those as there are vintages that grab me. One of the bright points of being old for me is that I lived in a time when the most amazing perfumes were easily available, and no one minded if you wore them!
    *Back to lurking*

  16. #46
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    This is true as far as it goes.

    But IFRA doesn't, so far as I understand it, have the power of law, so, insofar as their specifications are the root cause of the ruination, there's no reason, du jure, to ascribe to their numbers.

    IFRA is akin to obtaining a UL listing for a tool or appliance: it's not a requirement for sale, it's (merely) a disadvantage in the marketplace.

    But: well, yeah, for *tools,* that's true — I have to posit that it (or any analog, like IFRA) won't appreciably help perfumes — which begs the question: why do they hew so closely? Someone here may have their head wrapped around that one. I surely don't.

    As for the limits imposed by the EU, that's a bit trickier. Then again, we have the King of the USA endorsing cannabis legalization (last I heard) so change can happen. But when?

    /AC

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    I do blame IFRA, because manufacturers must comply or die. Malle has said that perfumery is DONE. You can't construct a masterpiece from a boatload of aromachemicals that are generated by five or six big laboratories. I don't fault perfumers, whose hands are tied by an industry that is akin to Big Pharma. Sorry, we'll have to agree to disagree on this one.
    Last edited by AceyMan; 14th June 2018 at 02:24 PM. Reason: Removed extra word

  17. #47
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by AceyMan View Post
    which begs the question: why do they hew so closely? Someone here may have their head wrapped around that one. I surely don't.
    I’ve read that it’s related to keeping in good standing with insurance companies / maintaining insurance coverage.

  18. #48
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ... ?

    Quote Originally Posted by theladymay View Post
    I'm happy when I do find modern perfumes that I can love for sure. There just aren't as many of those as there are vintages that grab me. One of the bright points of being old for me is that I lived in a time when the most amazing perfumes were easily available, and no one minded if you wore them!
    *Back to lurking*
    How wonderful, I’m happy to have caught the tail end of it. I grew up in France in the 80’s with 5 aunts in my family I’ll always remember at the holidays when we’d all get together, they’d all smell so good..Ysatis, Coco, Arpege, N5, Opium, Poison etc.. It was glorious. What a sad time we’re in as a society for us.
    Yesterday I stepped in an elevator that was smelling really really good, a lady was there and I complimented her perfume assuming it was hers, she replied it wasn’t and she hated the stuff and went on about how places should be scent free because this and that...

  19. #49
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    Default Re: In praise of vintage perfumes ...

    No matter how good a modern release is, it seems like the base notes can never be quite as good as vintage fragrances, with oak moss and animalics.

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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000