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  1. #31
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    pkiler's Avatar
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    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by vd86 View Post
    Really?
    I always thought its produced exclusively only for Geza Schön and his molecule 01 fragrance
    Incorrect. Certainly not just for one perfumer, Iso Gamma Super is used in MANY fragrances... But is not available for sale outside of IFF.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  2. #32

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Incorrect. Certainly not just for one perfumer, Iso Gamma Super is used in MANY fragrances... But is not available for sale outside of IFF.
    Ok I didnt know that, I thought its only used in Molecule01
    But Timbersilk is closer to it than the regular iso e super, is that correct?

  3. #33

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Guys,

    can someone help me?

    Im trying to recreate the drydown of Fierce.
    I dont care about the opening and the middle, I dont like it that much at all.
    For me, its all about the drydown.

    What would I need to create this clean-sexy smelling Fierce drydown? Iso E Super, Musk and Oakmoss, Sandalwood ??

  4. #34

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Guys,

    I found something very interesting.

    https://loe.org/images/content/10052...agranceRpt.pdf

    44 Page PDF about chemicals in fragrance.
    Fierce is included.

    Go to page 29 and you will see what they found.

    To my surprise, there seems to be NO galaxolide in Fierce.

    But where is ISO E Super in this list?

  5. #35

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    I’ve seen that PDF. Makes one think it’s not a complete list. You’d think there were more chems in it than what’s listed there as that doesn’t seem very complex. If it is a full list minus iso e or iso gamma super the complexity must come from Christophe’s dilutions and blending techniques.

  6. #36

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Hm.. yeah.
    Why is there no ISO E Super listed when it makes 48% of the original Fierce formula ??
    Or im blind ??

    Strange

  7. #37

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by vd86 View Post
    The original formulation fierce is 48% ISO E Super, according to multiple sources.
    Obviously that's just for the fragrance component, not including the fact that it's also dissolved in alcohol.

    I'm pretty sure in the later formulations they've toned down the amount of ISO E Super (although they've also changed other stuff that makes it not as good).


    Quote Originally Posted by vd86 View Post
    To my surprise, there seems to be NO galaxolide in Fierce.
    I'm not surprised. I can't stand galaxolide, way too stuffy.


    As for the "grapefruit"-like note I seem to detect, I don't know what that is, but I got a bottle of cheap knock-off Fierce ("Blaze" by Preferred) and it does a fairly good job of replicating that note, whatever it is. (However the knock-off is still obviously inferior to the original concerning the rest of the fragrance)

  8. #38

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by parker25mv View Post

    As for the "grapefruit"-like note I seem to detect, I don't know what that is, but I got a bottle of cheap knock-off Fierce ("Blaze" by Preferred) and it does a fairly good job of replicating that note, whatever it is. (However the knock-off is still obviously inferior to the original concerning the rest of the fragrance)
    I have a bottle of Blaze as well. It’s definitely missing a number of Fierce aspects. The best knockoff I have ever smelled is Raw Power body spray by Designer Imposters, which I don’t think is even available anymore. It was spot on for Fierce.

  9. #39

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by parker25mv View Post

    I'm pretty sure in the later formulations they've toned down the amount of ISO E Super (although they've also changed other stuff that makes it not as good).

    Yes, they did.
    I have a 2016 Fierce and a Vintage Fierce with the red lettering from the mid 2000s.
    They smell quite different.
    The Vintage drydown is godly and smells high quality, the 2016 Drydown smells average, synthetic and a bit metallic.
    You can smell that there is definitely less Iso E Super in the 2016 Drydown.

    But for the musk part. What kind of musk is used in Fierce, if its not Galaxolide?
    EDIT: Found it. Its Cashmeran.


    See here for some pics of my 2 bottles
    https://imgur.com/a/qgF6z81
    Last edited by vd86; 22nd July 2018 at 01:04 AM.

  10. #40

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    I honestly can’t say I’ve ever smelled cashmeran in Fierce.

  11. #41

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Well, they found it tho. Check the PDF.

  12. #42

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by vd86 View Post
    Well, they found it tho. Check the PDF.
    1600 micrograms/g, comes to 0.16% in the formula. This isn't the first time I've seen Cashmeran dosed at <1% with noticeable effects. Makes sense, especially in such a transparent mixture as Fierce.


  13. #43

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    It seems to be very strong.
    No idea what it smells like though.

  14. #44

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by runstile View Post
    1600 micrograms/g, comes to 0.16% in the formula. This isn't the first time I've seen Cashmeran dosed at <1% with noticeable effects. Makes sense, especially in such a transparent mixture as Fierce.
    What other formulas have you seen using that small dosage? Also, (maybe a dumb question) how does one drop that small an amount of a material into their formula?

  15. #45

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    I don't know about Fierce, but with their latest fragrance named "Hollister", I definitely get loads of Cashmeran and Iso E Super. (In fact that may be all it is... )

  16. #46

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    What fragrance do you mean? There is no fragrance called Hollister. Hollister is another brand, but it belongs to A&F.

  17. #47

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Does anyone have a GCMS of Fierce they’d be willing to share?

  18. #48
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    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by JBChi33 View Post
    Does anyone have a GCMS of Fierce they’d be willing to share?
    Sorry, I've not seen one.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  19. #49

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Thanks, PK. Seems like nobody has. :/

  20. #50
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    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by vd86 View Post
    Guys,

    I found something very interesting.

    https://loe.org/images/content/10052...agranceRpt.pdf

    44 Page PDF about chemicals in fragrance.
    Fierce is included.

    Go to page 29 and you will see what they found.

    To my surprise, there seems to be NO galaxolide in Fierce.

    But where is ISO E Super in this list?

    Life is too short to worry about things like "chemicals."
    There SOOOO MANY other more dangerous things in this world.
    Like eating too much. smoking. driving. drinking alcohol. and dumb people.

    "hormone disrupting chemicals," haha.... well, that sounds promising.
    STEROIDS ARE AWESOME!

  21. #51

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    You know, I'm wondering if there could be a hint of Pamplefleur in the formula. The smell of Pamplefleur strongly reminds me of the sort of pungent and cedary grapefruit note I seem to be able to pick up in Fierce.
    Would probably only be a tiny hint.

    Or maybe 5-mercapto-6-undecanone (although I've never smelled it), and that might be it because the type of smell seems to be just a little more sulfurously pungent to me than I think Pamplefleur could be.
    Last edited by parker25mv; 13th October 2019 at 04:20 PM.

  22. #52

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Apparently I'm not the only individual to notice the "grapefruit" connection.

    Some excerpts from a review by Zealot Crusader, June 6, 2019 :

    "These were the ozonics of the 90's retrofitted with additional sweet fruity tones and sharp woody musks into an almost neon glow to grab one's attention, and Fierce became arguably the flagship fragrance of that early 2000's ilk. It was a briefly-lived genre of "radioactive grapefruit" as I like to describe it, but despite the profusion of scent that once greeted the A&F shopper at the door, Fierce is actually one of the gentler examples of the style when worn on skin, although that isn't to say this is overall a gentle fragrance."

    "Vibrant and sweet citrus notes combined with airy florals and a marine note to announce the rest of the composition, which was essentially a hybrid dandy fougère and aquatic freshie infused with enough Iso E Super to kill a horse by accident. Petitgrain, lemon, orange, and grapefruit are all married to dihydromyrcenol and jasmine hedione in the solar flare top, with a bouquet of dry rose, muguet, cardamom, and clary sage in the heart to give Fierce the airy feel it has once the nuclear sweet tarts and citrus dies down. Soft and powdery cashmeran with vetiver, oakmoss, white laundry musk, and rosewood ride on that backbone of potentially nose-blinding Iso E Super, which attributes to the vibrance from afar, but can make Fierce feel deceptively quiet on the wearer. The overall aura of Fierce is really anything but once it settles down, as the citrus and aromachemicals are what makes this scream, but once they get tuned out, there is a rather unisex dandy floral under it all, sandwiched between the blaring top and sharp synthetic woods base."

    http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancere.../26122434&rt=3


    (Personal note: I don't really notice so much dihydromyrcenol in this, so you should try to keep that to a minimum, if you include it at all. Dihydromyrcenol is a scratchy fake lime smell. Your fragrance might even be better without it.)

  23. #53

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by parker25mv View Post
    You know, I'm wondering if there could be a hint of Pamplefleur in the formula. The smell of Pamplefleur strongly reminds me of the sort of pungent and cedary grapefruit note I seem to be able to pick up in Fierce.
    Would probably only be a tiny hint.

    Or maybe 5-mercapto-6-undecanone (although I've never smelled it), and that might be it because the type of smell seems to be just a little more sulfurously pungent to me than I think Pamplefleur could be.
    Gonna get me some Pamplefleur ASAP. Thanks for the recommendation!

  24. #54

    Default Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by JBChi33 View Post
    Gonna get me some Pamplefleur ASAP. Thanks for the recommendation!
    Pamplefleur is a bit of a mouth-puckering rhubarb smell, very slight fake vetiver nuance. I wouldn't describe as a clean grapefruit, more like blood orange edible zing, or guava, leaning much more towards grapefruit though. But may have different effects at lower concentrations. It's more a Ruby Red grapefruit, seems to simulate the pungent characteristic of grapefruit thiol.

    It's like the "dirtier" more seductive, pungent, slightly more orange-grapefruit version of methyl pamplemousse, I would say.
    (The two synthetics are leaning towards two different sides of grapefruit, I would say)


    Again, I'm not 100% sure Fierce actually contains Pamplefleur, but it seems like the same sort of grapefruit effect to me. At the very least it would help approximate the overall feeling of the smell.
    Again, I suspect there could be a hint of thiols in Fierce, though I could be wrong, and I don't think that's something any of you need to worry about. (Maybe grapefruit mercaptan, 5-mercapto-6-undecanone, or tiny traces of dimethyl sulfide, I don't know)




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