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  1. #751

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by StellaDiverFlynn View Post
    I have a sample of crocodile from JK. I haven't received my sample of Sir Winston, so can't comment on it yet. But the crocodile oil is very similar to the dry, almost acrid woodiness in L'Heure Exquise to my nose.
    Wow, that makes perfect sense. I HATED L’Huere. I think I’m very sensitive to the old crocodile. For what it’s worth, Sir Winston didn’t give me that same impression.

  2. #752
    Super Member ctboom's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    You're probably at least partially right here and I had the very same question; I believe there's a rule of thumb as far as perfume adulterations go, i.e. only add two drops of any other element into a finished perfume, say two drops of oakmoss to Mousse Illuminee (which is actually a tree-moss based fragrance). Then wait 1-2 months before further adulterations (should the initial drops turn out to not be strong enough to one's liking) to allow for the new agent to blend in and lose the jutting corners otherwise noticeable immediately after mixing. So, blending time can factor in to an overall impression but I hope more knowledgeable minds will chime in.


    Quote Originally Posted by wood&leather View Post
    I'd like to coattail this question with a statement/question.

    I didn't think it was the aging of individual notes that caused the changes we noticed in koh-i-noor, baikal gris, bonheur. I thought it was the aging of the notes together in a single concoction that created the perceived stronger and more mature aroma. (Full disclosure this logic is based on complete "broscience" and zero actual science).

    I think this is an interesting distinction to make, because well, how do we then bank on Antiquity changing at all? A lot of people (me included) were all "yeah, BG and KiN changed a ton after 6 months of maturity". Antiquity has notes from 1930... lol. Brb just a smooth century of maturation, no big deal hahahah

    we need a scientist/formal nose in here.
    Last edited by ctboom; 17th October 2019 at 07:33 PM.
    Currently wearing: Jeke by Slumberhouse

  3. #753
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by StellaDiverFlynn View Post
    I have a sample of crocodile from JK. I haven't received my sample of Sir Winston, so can't comment on it yet. But the crocodile oil is very similar to the dry, almost acrid woodiness in L'Heure Exquise to my nose.
    Believe it or not I’ve yet to break into my sample of L’Heure Exquise but I don’t get any dry acrid woodiness from Sir Winston. Perhaps the bouya oil proportion was minuscule or perfectly counterbalanced.
    “...too many among us die at thirty and are buried at eighty.” - Robin Sharma

  4. #754
    Basenotes Institution pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Oud Monarch is an excellent oriental. Rich, easy to wear, smells f***cking great, good weight, never heavy or syrupy, subtle but adequate radiance, never suffers from the tiresome affability this genre often creates. I expected a muskier drydown, but it’s long-lasting, fairly mesmeric, and keeps its quiddity until its gone. It lacks a little hip action due to the good but relatively generic drydown, but I’d be glad to own it. Those first forty-five minutes or so are fairly sublime.

    It's not an Oud Maximus or a Vetiver Nocturne, but I rarely want orientals, so it must be good.

  5. #755
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Oud Monarch is an excellent oriental. Rich, easy to wear, smells f***cking great, good weight, never heavy or syrupy, subtle but adequate radiance, never suffers from the tiresome affability this genre often creates. I expected a muskier drydown, but it’s long-lasting, fairly mesmeric, and keeps its quiddity until its gone. It lacks a little hip action due to the good but relatively generic drydown, but I’d be glad to own it. Those first forty-five minutes or so are fairly sublime.

    It's not an Oud Maximus or a Vetiver Nocturne, but I rarely want orientals, so it must be good.
    Great description and IMO it keeps getting better.

    It's right up there with those 2 for me.

  6. #756
    Basenotes Institution pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by 911LambMelb View Post
    Great description and IMO it keeps getting better.

    It's right up there with those 2 for me.
    It's good. It can be a little cloying.
    Last edited by pluran; 20th October 2019 at 10:26 PM.

  7. #757

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    100% agree pluran. Monarch was a slow grower on me, for all the reasons you mentioned. But now it’s one of my favs. With Max and Nocturne for sure.

  8. #758
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Khabib is really nice too.

  9. #759

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Khabib is really nice too.
    Yup. Amazing.

  10. #760
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I decided to wear Musk Khabib today. Wow, this is just so lush and opulent but not overly so...it reminds me really of the Amber Cologne but even better. Wow. Last time I wore this, it wasn't nearly as deep. It has gotten a LOT better. Now I can't focus and just have to keep noticing it. It is MAGNIFICENT, have you tried it recently? What is you experience?

  11. #761
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    I decided to wear Musk Khabib today. Wow, this is just so lush and opulent but not overly so...it reminds me really of the Amber Cologne but even better. Wow. Last time I wore this, it wasn't nearly as deep. It has gotten a LOT better. Now I can't focus and just have to keep noticing it. It is MAGNIFICENT, have you tried it recently? What is you experience?
    Wore it last week. I agree its very well done.

    Who knew that years ago, when I was so disinterested in musk-prominent scents, that I would be buying several of them from this brand and Areej le Dore.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  12. #762

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Oud Maximus i can work with, but Musk Khabib is a scrubber for me. Every time i revisit it for a wrist spray it's just too skanky and i instantly want to wash it and wear something else.

    I say that very much enjoying the animalics of the OG Siberian Musk. There's just something with Musk Khabib that doesn't sit well. Everytime I visit Vetiver Nocturne I enjoy it, but L'heure Exquise never sat well with me. basenotes, weara

    Ultimately i appreciate Dmitry's versatility and experimentation. He doesn't just settle on one dna and ride that out. He's experimenting with different concentrations, wearability/skankness. Each collection successfully scratches the curiosity bug, and i ultimately think that's what i'm looking for.
    Don't stank.
    Currently wearing: MEM by Bogue Profumo

  13. #763
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Agreed maybe Russian Adam gets more hype but Dmitry's scents are in my mind and enjoyment much better composed. Musk Khabib was a tough one at first to enjoy but as time has past I'm beginning to come around a little like Sir Winston in the new series. Perhaps both won't receive as much attention for me as some of his other offerings but I'm glad they were developed. I am also glad others enjoy them as premier offerings from the house.

  14. #764

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    My musk Khabib is more soapy than skanky. With musk cologne having more skank for me. That’s interesting that you get more musk out of Khabib.

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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I don’t get any soapiness from Musk Khabib. And it isn’t skanky to me at all.

  16. #766

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Gotta love the artisnal nature of our hobby. If I didn't know any better, i would have thought i bought "a fake". However the backup bottle I just acquired (on the left) was clearly filled in a bottle left over from the Oud Maximus / Oud Monarch days.





    Musk Cologne was released separately weeks (if not months) after Amber Cologne. You can see this slight different in gold plate sizing in the stock images of Amber/Musk cologne on Bortnikoff's website. This could be avoided if he just decided on a single bottle size/provider and stuck with it. Oh well, doesn't really bother me one way or another. Just gave me a chuckle.
    Don't stank.
    Currently wearing: MEM by Bogue Profumo

  17. #767

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    I don’t get any soapiness from Musk Khabib. And it isn’t skanky to me at all.
    Well I’m talking muskiness. I only really see musk as clean musk or dirty musk. So: soap or skank. Musk Khabib is clean musk to me and musk cologne is slightly dirtier(closer to Siberian Musk than Khabib is). Florals are often soapy for me as I grew up around a mother who used Santa Maria Novella floral soaps: carnation, neroli, rose, violet. Any non-indolic floral mixed with freshie scents(citrus, mint etc) gives me soapy vibes. Which isn’t a bad thing. I love clean and fresh as much as skanky and dirty.

    Of musk Khabib and musk cologne which do you perceive more floral and which more musky?

  18. #768
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Musk Cologne is to me more floral than Musk Khabib. The florals in Musk Cologne stick around a bit more prominently to my nose. Musk Khabib is more vanillic and less floral. The florals balance out the vanilla and are not prominent to me.

  19. #769

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Musk Cologne is to me more floral than Musk Khabib. The florals in Musk Cologne stick around a bit more prominently to my nose. Musk Khabib is more vanillic and less floral. The florals balance out the vanilla and are not prominent to me.
    Interesting! Not at all my experience with it but that’s what I love about this hobby. So many different perceptions.

  20. #770
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Musk Cologne is to me more floral than Musk Khabib. The florals in Musk Cologne stick around a bit more prominently to my nose. Musk Khabib is more vanillic and less floral. The florals balance out the vanilla and are not prominent to me.
    I agree ^
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

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  21. #771
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    I decided to wear Musk Khabib today. Wow, this is just so lush and opulent but not overly so...it reminds me really of the Amber Cologne but even better. Wow. Last time I wore this, it wasn't nearly as deep. It has gotten a LOT better. Now I can't focus and just have to keep noticing it. It is MAGNIFICENT, have you tried it recently? What is you experience?
    Amazing. This was initially my least favourite from the third collection. Tried it today. It's denser but the florals have died down a little. I don't find it skanky. Maybe it feels dense compared to Musk Cologne?

    I haven't tested out Zemfira and SDN properly yet, but it seems that the entire third collection (plus Musk Cologne) are all through and through winners. Amber Cologne.. Oud Monarch... Musk Khabib. All brilliant.

    Fourth collection I only really dig Sir Winston but admittedly haven't spent much time with the other two fragrances. They're nice but as it stands I enjoy the previous collection more. Let's see how I feel after I give Zemfira and SDN full wearings this week.

  22. #772
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by 911LambMelb View Post
    Amazing. This was initially my least favourite from the third collection. Tried it today. It's denser but the florals have died down a little. I don't find it skanky. Maybe it feels dense compared to Musk Cologne?

    I haven't tested out Zemfira and SDN properly yet, but it seems that the entire third collection (plus Musk Cologne) are all through and through winners. Amber Cologne.. Oud Monarch... Musk Khabib. All brilliant.

    Fourth collection I only really dig Sir Winston but admittedly haven't spent much time with the other two fragrances. They're nice but as it stands I enjoy the previous collection more. Let's see how I feel after I give Zemfira and SDN full wearings this week.
    I keep trying to like Zemfira but I am struggling with it. I'm sort of picky about rose soliflore scents. But I'm gonna hold on to it and see how it ages.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  23. #773

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I keep trying to like Zemfira but I am struggling with it. I'm sort of picky about rose soliflore scents. But I'm gonna hold on to it and see how it ages.
    My impression of Zemfira was that it was sooooo sweet. Not a jammy rose, per se. Almost a sugar rose.

  24. #774
    Basenotes Institution TNBLUEMIKE's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I really enjoy Zemfira named after a Russian rock star. It really is a clean sparkling rose scent that is really beautiful to my senses. It isn't in the normal brash mode that Dmitry is known for but he has been enjoying the lighter touch with his recent ventures with colognes and these seem to be a extension of this theme along with Symphonies.

  25. #775
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by Proust_Madeleine View Post
    My impression of Zemfira was that it was sooooo sweet. Not a jammy rose, per se. Almost a sugar rose.
    Yes! I agree 100%. Too sweet for me.

  26. #776
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by Jcelello View Post
    Yes! I agree 100%. Too sweet for me.
    Quote Originally Posted by Proust_Madeleine View Post
    My impression of Zemfira was that it was sooooo sweet. Not a jammy rose, per se. Almost a sugar rose.
    I think I like sweet rose scents. I love and own Rose Flash by Tauer and also just finished a bottle of Tauer's Rose Delight Body Oil (which reminded me of the smell of Turkish Delight) and loved it.

    There's something else about Zemfira that I'm struggling with. Can't put my finger on it yet. But I'm patient...I'll see how this one smells in a months time.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  27. #777

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I think I like sweet rose scents. I love and own Rose Flash by Tauer and also just finished a bottle of Tauer's Rose Delight Body Oil (which reminded me of the smell of Turkish Delight) and loved it.

    There's something else about Zemfira that I'm struggling with. Can't put my finger on it yet. But I'm patient...I'll see how this one smells in a months time.
    Interesting! I love Tauer’s roses and agree they are sweet, though also incense balances that a bit. I must admit I only sampled Zemfira once from my spray vial so I may be missing the effect that comes with a full wearing.

  28. #778
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Zemfira is to me a typical rose oud, nothing horrific about it, nothing amazing either. It’s pretty nice because I like rose oud, but I don’t pick up on it being too anything. I wish it had more personality. Maybe it will become better over time.

  29. #779

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Zemfira is to me a typical rose oud, nothing horrific about it, nothing amazing either. It’s pretty nice because I like rose oud, but I don’t pick up on it being too anything. I wish it had more personality. Maybe it will become better over time.
    This has got me thinking. Rising Phoenix's "Musk Rose Attar", and Roja's " Aoud Musk" are two of my favorite fragrances.


    I see an opportunity here for Dmitry to play with a "punchier" musk rose. I found areej's W&P too soft and "aromatic". I'd love to see a Musk Rose from either house that has the "body" of Malik Al Taif.
    Don't stank.
    Currently wearing: MEM by Bogue Profumo

  30. #780
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Gave Zemfira a full wearing today.

    I found the rose to be pretty sweet but also green. It smells similar to Rising Phoenix Rose Otto actually. I think the atlas cedar and prominent sandalwood give the frangrance a green woody sweetness if that makes sense. The oud is very soft in comparison.

    I find it to be very different and pleasant but still not in that super special category.




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