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  1. #901

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I’m not sure if it’s skin chemistry or what but on wearing Sir Winston again, I’m having the same problem I had with Zemfira: they’re both slightly too sweet for me.

  2. #902

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    After wearing all three of the last collection, this past weekend, I have to say Symphonie de Neroli is my favorite. Lovely white floral opening with that old Bortnikoff dna(Bonheur, coup de foudre, vetiver nocturne 1) with neroli being the dominant note for a bit before drying down to an ambergris vetiver and then getting progressively darker green into brown at the end, as the oakmoss pulls everything towards the earth. I think the last final puff of oud makes this one a really compelling evolution. Especially since it goes on with such buttoned up beauty and ends up so dark. This one very much feels like a continuation of his VN work, just without the creamy banana accord up top. I really like it. Anyone else have a grower from the Zemfira/Sir Winston/SdN trio?

  3. #903
    Basenotes Institution TNBLUEMIKE's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Symphonie is the grower for me out of this batch. Zemira is sweet but so captivating to me. Sir Winston is personally a dislike. I haven't come around to it like the first two. But to concur with your thoughts the more I wear Symphonie the more I like it.
    Currently wearing: Cavour 1 by Xerjoff

  4. #904
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I wore Oud Monarch last night, after a long while of forgetting about it. I must admit I am not a big fan of the cocoa note in mens orientals. I like a well done chocolate note, but I'm picky about them. I love Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens and Ummagumma by Bruno Fazzolari a lot but I detest popular favorites like Ore by Slumberhouse and Kokorico by JPG.

    I love the whiff of cacao in Oud Monarch - it totally works on skin in the context of the other swirl of heavy notes: May rose, Himalayan rose, Cinnamon, Tobacco, Oud, Civet, Castoreum, Labdanum, & Vanilla.

    The mid and base notes are so heavy to my nose that when I first spray this on I don't even *detect* the florals (that I so easily detect in other Bortnikoff scents).

    I must say though that this fades quick on my skin. I didn't go crazy with a heavy application but there are scents like Bonheur or Vetiver Nocturne that are so strong even when I unscrew the decant and rub the wet wand on my arm - whereas a full application of this one kind of faded. Anyone else have longevity issues with Oud Monarch?
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  5. #905

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I wore Oud Monarch last night, after a long while of forgetting about it. I must admit I am not a big fan of the cocoa note in mens orientals. I like a well done chocolate note, but I'm picky about them. I love Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens and Ummagumma by Bruno Fazzolari a lot but I detest popular favorites like Ore by Slumberhouse and Kokorico by JPG.

    I love the whiff of cacao in Oud Monarch - it totally works on skin in the context of the other swirl of heavy notes: May rose, Himalayan rose, Cinnamon, Tobacco, Oud, Civet, Castoreum, Labdanum, & Vanilla.

    The mid and base notes are so heavy to my nose that when I first spray this on I don't even *detect* the florals (that I so easily detect in other Bortnikoff scents).

    I must say though that this fades quick on my skin. I didn't go crazy with a heavy application but there are scents like Bonheur or Vetiver Nocturne that are so strong even when I unscrew the decant and rub the wet wand on my arm - whereas a full application of this one kind of faded. Anyone else have longevity issues with Oud Monarch?
    I tested both Oud Monarch and Oud Maximus '19 from decant sprayers. On my skin, longevity is about 6-8 hours more or less with Oud Maximus '19 stretching it a little longer. Personally, I enjoyed Oud Maximus's opening more than the one in Oud Monarch, but I prefer Oud Monarch's dry down.

  6. #906
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I wore Oud Monarch last night, after a long while of forgetting about it. I must admit I am not a big fan of the cocoa note in mens orientals. I like a well done chocolate note, but I'm picky about them. I love Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens and Ummagumma by Bruno Fazzolari a lot but I detest popular favorites like Ore by Slumberhouse and Kokorico by JPG.

    I love the whiff of cacao in Oud Monarch - it totally works on skin in the context of the other swirl of heavy notes: May rose, Himalayan rose, Cinnamon, Tobacco, Oud, Civet, Castoreum, Labdanum, & Vanilla.

    The mid and base notes are so heavy to my nose that when I first spray this on I don't even *detect* the florals (that I so easily detect in other Bortnikoff scents).

    I must say though that this fades quick on my skin. I didn't go crazy with a heavy application but there are scents like Bonheur or Vetiver Nocturne that are so strong even when I unscrew the decant and rub the wet wand on my arm - whereas a full application of this one kind of faded. Anyone else have longevity issues with Oud Monarch?
    Lasts for a very long time on my skin but I am an oversprayer. Lol
    Areej Le Dore. Bortnikoff. Some Slumberhouse, Some Fort and Manle.

  7. #907

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I'm starting to think that Bortnikoff is the snobby non-plus ultra as layering tools.
    Winston is amazing, but so unfinished. You can take that juice and layer it with other things and make masterblends.
    Same with Symphonie.

  8. #908

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by Proust_Madeleine View Post
    After wearing all three of the last collection, this past weekend, I have to say Symphonie de Neroli is my favorite. Lovely white floral opening with that old Bortnikoff dna(Bonheur, coup de foudre, vetiver nocturne 1) with neroli being the dominant note for a bit before drying down to an ambergris vetiver and then getting progressively darker green into brown at the end, as the oakmoss pulls everything towards the earth. I think the last final puff of oud makes this one a really compelling evolution. Especially since it goes on with such buttoned up beauty and ends up so dark. This one very much feels like a continuation of his VN work, just without the creamy banana accord up top. I really like it. Anyone else have a grower from the Zemfira/Sir Winston/SdN trio?
    Im currently testing that trio. I posted review for Winston in Fragrantica, and I will update my SdN review into an extensive one as well. Im not excited about Zemfira but will also post a review.

  9. #909
    Basenotes Member High Barnet's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Anyone else have longevity issues with Oud Monarch?
    Yes. Checking again and again (from samples), but the opening is always gone too soon, and with it, all the aspects I enjoy in these short moments (as you detail, rose, cinnamon, tobacco, oud,...). For me it quickly becomes a light, pleasant, waxy floral skin scent...very nice, but barely there, and certainly not the "King of Oud," at least not on my skin. I keep trying, as I know it is almost gone. In any case, Russian Oud is everything I wish this one was.

    PS Borneo 1834 and Ummagumma have become favs too, but so has Ore...
    Currently wearing: Baie de Genièvre by Creed

  10. #910
    Basenotes Member High Barnet's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by High Barnet View Post
    Yes. Checking again and again.
    Emptied my sample sprayer of Oud Monarch this morning. About 10, mostly sparse, sprays. But, in total, a much larger dose than any prior wearing, and it really paid off. A very enjoyable wear all day, and the family expressed disappointment that I was still fragrant upon returning from work 12 hours later. Shouldn't take over application (my perspective), to achieve these results, but still, if you can afford to be so liberal with a $350/50ml scent, then this is a great one.
    Currently wearing: Baie de Genièvre by Creed

  11. #911
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    May need more of Oud Monarch to really test its limits but I found the sample somewhat underwhelming; I didn’t bother getting more. Think I’m OK without it.

    Also interested to note earlier comments about seemingly ‘unfinished’ compositions. Is that observation based on a personal preference for classically structured 3-tiered fragrances with distinct well-separated phases of development?

    As with music, I don’t believe there is a single best way to compose a fragrance. Sir Winston wears quite linear on me too but that is a bonus as I LOVE the main ambergris-tobacco-tuberose accord. I don’t find it unfinished as I don’t have preconceived notions about what the perfumer sought to create. Appreciate it for what it is.
    “...too many among us die at thirty and are buried at eighty.” - Robin Sharma

  12. #912
    Basenotes Institution pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Never too heavy, sweet or syrupy, excellent depth, richness, amplitude, longevity. I don’t like many sweet orientals, but Oud Monarch has become one of the few fragrances I wear with any consistency.

    Always glad to have Vetiver Nocturne, Bonheur and Oud Maximus around as well.

  13. #913

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    May need more of Oud Monarch to really test its limits but I found the sample somewhat underwhelming; I didn’t bother getting more. Think I’m OK without it.

    Also interested to note earlier comments about seemingly ‘unfinished’ compositions. Is that observation based on a personal preference for classically structured 3-tiered fragrances with distinct well-separated phases of development?

    As with music, I don’t believe there is a single best way to compose a fragrance. Sir Winston wears quite linear on me too but that is a bonus as I LOVE the main ambergris-tobacco-tuberose accord. I don’t find it unfinished as I don’t have preconceived notions about what the perfumer sought to create. Appreciate it for what it is.
    I totally agree with your evaluation of Sir Winston. I find this fragrance to convey a very refined and gentlemanly presence due to the combination of notes but particularly the inclusion of tobacco. Up until the tuberose abd ambergris it had a more unisex profile. The beauty of this fragrance is in the simplicity of the scent allowing these few notes to shine. You csn really see how the ambergris plays the main role here and how well it is used with the tuberose. Longevity is also outstanding on my skin as it lasts all day. It is also very wearable.

  14. #914
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I spent 4 days hanging out in NYC this week, so I went to Luckyscent and got my nose on all the Bortnikoff's they had on the shelf. I bought a bottle of Baikal Gris and today I'm wearing Musk Khabib from the sample I got while there. Musk Khabib seems rather linear, but that's OK because I think it's smells incredible. I already want it, Sir Winston, and Vetiver Nocturne 19. I really liked Oud Maximus 19 as well. It had quite the opening funk.

    I went to Saks later that day and Bortnikoff/ALD are making everything else seem inconsequential.

    Thank you to everyone in these two threads for turning me on to these two.

  15. #915
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by bklow View Post
    I spent 4 days hanging out in NYC this week, so I went to Luckyscent and got my nose on all the Bortnikoff's they had on the shelf. I bought a bottle of Baikal Gris and today I'm wearing Musk Khabib from the sample I got while there. Musk Khabib seems rather linear, but that's OK because I think it's smells incredible. I already want it, Sir Winston, and Vetiver Nocturne 19. I really liked Oud Maximus 19 as well. It had quite the opening funk.

    I went to Saks later that day and Bortnikoff/ALD are making everything else seem inconsequential.

    Thank you to everyone in these two threads for turning me on to these two.
    Congrats! Musk Khabib is amazing. And I love the “colognes” — and all of the rest really. They are magnificent.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  16. #916
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by bklow View Post
    I went to Saks later that day and Bortnikoff/ALD are making everything else seem inconsequential.
    I’ve definitely been feeling this sentiment myself.
    Currently wearing: Sir Winston by Bortnikoff

  17. #917
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by bklow View Post

    I went to Saks later that day and Bortnikoff/ALD are making everything else seem inconsequential.

    Thank you to everyone in these two threads for turning me on to these two.
    Same thing happened to me.
    A lot of perfumes sting my nose now- the heavy synthetics aren't for me anymore.
    Areej Le Dore. Bortnikoff. Some Slumberhouse, Some Fort and Manle.

  18. #918
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by Proust_Madeleine View Post
    After wearing all three of the last collection, this past weekend, I have to say Symphonie de Neroli is my favorite. Lovely white floral opening with that old Bortnikoff dna(Bonheur, coup de foudre, vetiver nocturne 1) with neroli being the dominant note for a bit before drying down to an ambergris vetiver and then getting progressively darker green into brown at the end, as the oakmoss pulls everything towards the earth. I think the last final puff of oud makes this one a really compelling evolution. Especially since it goes on with such buttoned up beauty and ends up so dark. This one very much feels like a continuation of his VN work, just without the creamy banana accord up top. I really like it. Anyone else have a grower from the Zemfira/Sir Winston/SdN trio?
    Quote Originally Posted by TNBLUEMIKE View Post
    Symphonie is the grower for me out of this batch. Zemira is sweet but so captivating to me. Sir Winston is personally a dislike. I haven't come around to it like the first two. But to concur with your thoughts the more I wear Symphonie the more I like it.
    Wearing Symphonie de Neroli. It is incredibly complex. It is so much more than about neroli.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  19. #919

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by TNBLUEMIKE View Post
    Symphonie is the grower for me out of this batch. Zemira is sweet but so captivating to me. Sir Winston is personally a dislike. I haven't come around to it like the first two. But to concur with your thoughts the more I wear Symphonie the more I like it.
    I am quite the opposite. I really dislike SdN and love Sir Winston. I feel the sweatness of the neroli doesnt complement the tuberose as well. It really enhanced that "bad breath" or "silava" smell of the tuberose. It feels really offputting when I wear it. It is one of those fragrances where I cant get past that association, much like Siberian Summer, sadly, to the detriment of my enjoyment

  20. #920
    Basenotes Institution TNBLUEMIKE's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by jcbuitrago View Post
    I am quite the opposite. I really dislike SdN and love Sir Winston. I feel the sweatness of the neroli doesnt complement the tuberose as well. It really enhanced that "bad breath" or "silava" smell of the tuberose. It feels really offputting when I wear it. It is one of those fragrances where I cant get past that association, much like Siberian Summer, sadly, to the detriment of my enjoyment
    Understand completely as everyone has a different take on these precious gems. Siberian Summer is another surprise that knocked my socks off that you quoted above. The good news is we have two excellent composers that are sharing their talents with us to decide which compliments our particular senses.
    Currently wearing: Cavour 1 by Xerjoff

  21. #921

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Winston works well in cooler weather and outside where it can breathe
    Zemfira I can't get behind as it's mostly a soliflore to me
    Symphonies de neroli is a real winner but it does kinda tread a well used genre

  22. #922

    Default Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Quote Originally Posted by TNBLUEMIKE View Post
    Understand completely as everyone has a different take on these precious gems. Siberian Summer is another surprise that knocked my socks off that you quoted above. The good news is we have two excellent composers that are sharing their talents with us to decide which compliments our particular senses.
    Sorry. I noticed I said tuberose but was actually thinking ambergris.




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