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  1. #1

    Default QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDCI)

    Week 35: Promesse de l'Aube (MDCI) and Enlevement au Serail (MDCI)

    Everyone is welcome to test, discuss, reminisce, and generally wax lyrical (or not!).

    This is the thirty-fifth week of a quest to test and discuss the top 100 (more or less) perfumes in The LIttle Book of Perfumes (Turin/Sanchez). There's a lot more information about the quest, lists of the perfumes, and an index to the weeks and perfumes we're covering on the stickied Week 1 thread.

    QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Index and Week 1 (Shalimar and Opium)

    NOTE: - We have a housekeeping thread if you'd like to contribute to choosing which perfumes are paired throughout the Quest:

    Turin/Sanchez Quest HOUSEKEEPING

  2. #2

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Two very classic floral chypre. I got both a few years after they appeared and I think in a reformulated state.

    Enlevement is fruity (peach and more), but in no way fruity floral in the modern sense. Instead, very elegant, sweetish without being cloying, with mixed flowers (nothing really standing out, but a classic bouquet basedo on jasmine), and with a nice chypre structure underneath (but as said more a combination than pure oakmoss per se).

    Promesse has a citrusy top, then morphing into a beautiful floral bouquet (again centered on jasmine), and evolving into a distantly chypre base (actually more woody and ambery, but still elegant).

    I agree with Turin that these were the best in the MDCI lineup (depending on one's taste for Invasion Barbare). It's not clear what their state is. As said, I assume that they were reformulated after the first chypre incarnation. Promesse disappeared at some point but then returned last year when I bought it. Enlevement also seems to have disappeared at some point, but I had bought it earlier.

    cacio

  3. #3

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Promesse de l'Aube, this is a fascinating creature! It started off with a blast of sweet peaches and pollen laden florals (ylang!) over a chypre structure; an interesting clash between the straight laced, stiff backed base of the latter and the creamy, bossomy, ripe aspects of the former. It has a milky sweet quality that, in combination with the fruit and florals could have turned me off, but to my surprise, it didn't.

    As per usual, I stuck my freshly sprayed arm under my husband's nose and he immediately replied: "sandalwood". He is right, but it took a while for my nose to pick that up. An hour or two in, Promesse seemed to shed its chypre facade entirely, showing more than a fleeting resemblance to Samsara, my favorite sweet floral sandalwood. A few hours later, it all of a sudden smelled remarkably similar to Dune (Kotori, as our Quest's resident Dune expert, do you get that too?).

    Besides the actual scent, it also has in common with both Dune and Samsara an impressive longevity and some serious sillage. Although this is not usually my style of fragrance, I am thoroughly enjoying this today. It's perhaps best described as a sweet-milky-oriental-floral-chypre; something that shouldn't work, but does.
    Currently wearing: Calyx by Prescriptives

  4. #4

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Yellowtone

    great description of Promesse. If memory is correct, the first version, which I smelled, was definitely more bitter and chypre through the base. This one substitutes with woods.

    I don't get dune however, at least, the recent Dune edp that I have. To me, Dune has a peculiar sour Hershey chocolate drydown, which this one doesn't have. But I have not smelled vintage Dune or parfum, and presumably they have sandalwood.

    cacio

  5. #5

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    cacio maybe it is another aspect of Dune that I'm picking up on, and I must say Dune smells very nostalgic to me, so I may not have the most reliable or objective impression of that scent.

    Are you familiar with Ormonde Jayne's Tolu? That resembles Dune in a similar fashion as Promesse does.
    Currently wearing: Calyx by Prescriptives

  6. #6

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Yes, I own and like Tolu. To me Tolu is an oriental vanillic with a rich amber base. Definitely heavier than Promesse in the base. But again I don't get the similarity to Dune's Hershey's grittiness. Perhaps, as said, it's just a matter of which versions of Dune we are smelling.

  7. #7

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Oh dear, I can't for the life of me find my Enlevement au Serail sample anywhere! I'm 99.9% sure I had it in my quest sample box recently, but it's nowhere to be found...
    Currently wearing: Calyx by Prescriptives

  8. #8

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Promesse de l'Aube

    Yellowtone's description is spot on! I usually don't go for the fruity/peachy on chypre combination, but I've worn this twice this week and I have liked it each time. It is sharp in that French chypre way but the citrussy feel is somehow broadened and deepened by the fruit and florals. It's a very good 'polished' but fresh scent for work or play. It doesn't grab me by the nose like some of my favourites do (@yellowtone - I see you're in Jasmin T - now that's a grabber!), but it's beautiful and smooth.

  9. #9

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    I'm just getting back into town, and I want to grab the last dab of these two before I report in!
    Last edited by Kotori; 15th June 2018 at 03:38 AM.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  10. #10

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Quote Originally Posted by Ebenas View Post
    Promesse de l'Aube

    Yellowtone's description is spot on! I usually don't go for the fruity/peachy on chypre combination, but I've worn this twice this week and I have liked it each time. It is sharp in that French chypre way but the citrussy feel is somehow broadened and deepened by the fruit and florals. It's a very good 'polished' but fresh scent for work or play. It doesn't grab me by the nose like some of my favourites do (@yellowtone - I see you're in Jasmin T - now that's a grabber!), but it's beautiful and smooth.
    I am weirdly attracted by Promesse I must say! It's still on my jacket and although it smells kind of unlike-me, I keep sniffing it throughout the day. I don't know what's gotten into me!

    (@ebenas, yes I received an impulsive Bruno Acampora sample order yesterday and couldn't wait to try Jasmin T, holy smokes!!!)
    Currently wearing: Calyx by Prescriptives

  11. #11

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    I'm not picking up any Dune, but maybe I've never let Enlevement Au Serail dry down that much. It should be noted that I don't pick up a sour milk chocolate accord in Dune, either. Rather, it smells to me like the smell of hot sand and very warm skin. I only wear vintage. Couldn't stand the modern on my skin, so I started buying from eBay. Maybe the accord is more apparent in the modern because of the attempt at synthetic sandalwood?
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  12. #12

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Enlevement Au Serail

    Topnotes of Robitussin transition quickly into Luden's cough drops with a supporting heart of what I take to be Jasmine. The overall idea appears to be derivative of Lolita Lempicka and Lou Lou by Cacharel. Later we transition to a more floral heart and I think I detect some tuberose in there somewhere, and maybe some violet. Regardless, it certainly smells purple. In fact, I am mildly reminded of "grape" drink. A loud floriental that seems to sashay into the forefront from another decade in a poofy satin party dress and block heels. It eventually softens to a magenta-colored fruity floral carrying something of the base of a "serious perfume." Throughout its development, I never seem to lose the cherry syrup of the opening, but it does become something chypre-like after some time.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  13. #13

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Promesse l'Aube

    First dab is an immediate sigh of pleasure. God, this is gorgeous. Despite what the notes may say, I smell Narcissus/daffodil, peach, and something fuzzy. The base reminds me of Allure EDT for women. Sharp, yet fuzzy, and very Spring. There is a rubbery note to the daffodil that is both accurate and daring. A hyper-realistic riff on the ideas from Vol de Nuit, but without the Guerlinade, and with none of the powder. Vol de Nuit if it had been made by Chanel. Or Allure with daffodils.

    It has a very peachy transition moment that is noteworthy and not the dried peach of Mitsouko, but rather peaches from a can.

    When I was a small child, I often wished that the sparkling citrusy sweetness of 7-Up could be bottled into a perfume. I think I even dabbed some on at some point, hoping for the best. Promesse de l'Aube brings all this to mind in the drydown, which is reminiscent of Ylang Ylang in a vase of 7-Up.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  14. #14

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Haha, thanks for that mental image Kotori, it's lovely! And I agree with your fizzy sweet citrus point, it's a defining feature of this scent.
    Currently wearing: Calyx by Prescriptives

  15. #15

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Kotori

    great images. I don't get cough syrup or the fruitchouli in Enlevement. But there is certainly fruit. Simply, it's much more elegant and chypre to my nose.
    I'll go back to Promesse and see whether I get narcissus. The florals are quite abstract and complex, so I'll probably get it if I pay attention.

    As for Dune, warm, gritty sand is exactly the impression I meant with Hershey chocolate. To those not used to them (eg Europeans), Hershey chocolate appears peculiarly gritty and sour. As you say, the note is probably stronger in the current version.

    cacio

  16. #16

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    I found both to be lovely, but loving chypres and chypre riffs as I do, I was hoping for more moss or wood or patch, or seaweed even, in the base that would identify them to me as chypres. Enlevement comes off more as a chypre to me than Promesse, which as I said is as difficult to characterize as Vol de Nuit. But whatever Vol de Nuit is, I think Promesse de l’Aube is, too. I was expecting to love Enlevement au Serail based on the comparisons to Mitsouko in reviews, but it didn’t hit me that way at all. Much more like a Lou Lou, which is gorgeous, but not something I’d wear. Promesse de l’Aube, on the other hand, though it does come off to me as the meeting point between Vol de Nuit and Allure EDT, and though I concede that’s rather a cheap trick to create the offspring of two incredibly well-loved and popular perfumes and then add 7-Up, just made my wish list.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  17. #17

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Kotori

    great images. I don't get cough syrup or the fruitchouli in Enlevement. But there is certainly fruit. Simply, it's much more elegant and chypre to my nose.
    I'll go back to Promesse and see whether I get narcissus. The florals are quite abstract and complex, so I'll probably get it if I pay attention.

    As for Dune, warm, gritty sand is exactly the impression I meant with Hershey chocolate. To those not used to them (eg Europeans), Hershey chocolate appears peculiarly gritty and sour. As you say, the note is probably stronger in the current version.

    cacio
    It’s too bad the daffodils have long stopped blooming this year or we could compare to the real thing. But do tell me what you think when you revisit.

    I never thought of Hershey’s as gritty. It’s not my favorite and I’ll admit there’s an odd sour note I no longer enjoy. I don’t really see the connection to Dune, but maybe that’s good... Dune is one of my life’s simple pleasures and perhaps it’s best not to analyze those too heavily.
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  18. #18

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    I tested Promesse again to see if I get narcissus. Smelling up close, there is indeed something greenish but warm, and there is a certain bitterness behind the sweetness of the citrus. Whether actual narcissus or it's the impression coming from the combination of ingredients I don't know. I looked at the stated pyramid and they don't list it (they do list ylang yland and jasmine). But we know that is not very indicative. It does have soft ambers, as does Vol de Nuit.

  19. #19

    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    Thanks for humoring me. It's probably just the combination of notes suggesting it, but it's a strong impression for me. Whatever it is, it's nice! And I like Vol de Nuit a lot, but because of its powderiness, I'm never sure when to wear it. Promesse de l'Aube, on the other hand, feels like it could be worn anytime. When do you find yourself wearing it?
    My only regrets in life are the people I haven't stood up for,
    and the perfumes I've thrown away.

  20. #20

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    Default Re: QUEST: Turin/Sanchez top 100 (ish!) - Week 35 : Promesse de l'Aube and Enlevement au Serail (MDC

    It was very hot today in DC-so probably not ideal for this weather. But otherwise, it feels a bit citrusy so it works well for most of the year.

    cacio

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