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  1. #1
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    Default Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    I've just received four Bruno Fazzolari samples:

    1. Feu Secret (2017)
    2. Ummagumma (2017)
    3. Unsettled (2017)
    4. Fontevraud (2018)

    From previous sampling, I enjoyed Fazzolari fragrances, but gave them a bunch of neutrals:

    Thumbs Up
    1. Au Del Narcisse Des Montagnes (now Au Dela Narcisse) (2014) - Great fragrance, vintage-esque and Chanel-esque, to my nose.
    2. Au Dela (2013) - Similar to Au Dela Narcisse, although I think I liked Au Dela Narcisse even more.

    Neutral
    1. Monserrat (2013) - Complex, feminine shampoo.
    2. Five (2013) - Nice opening and top, promising fragrance, but uses something I don't like in the base.
    3. Room 237 (2015) - Interesting, bordering on outrageous, smells a bit like a hospital.
    4. Cadavre Exquis (2016) - Artsy, pungent opening that crossed the line into cloying for me, nicer candy and woods in the base.

    Thumbs Down
    1. Lampblack (2013) - Harsh, perhaps an acquired taste.

    I'll post smelling notes on the new samples below. Feel free to discuss all things Fazzolari. Here's a thread from Deadidol for background reading: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/380...ari-Discussion

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Following with interest, as I've yet to dip my toe much into these waters, despite prodding from a Rhode Island hyrax and a Canadian camel.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Just got an Ummagumma sample this week myself. Looking forward to test driving it.

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Feu Secret - Beautiful, wonderful opening. It reminds me of Le Labo Iris, which I love. The Le Labo reminds me of wet hay. The opening of Feu Secret reminded me of being around horses, but a more beautiful, cleaner version of the smell. Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur is another fragrance that comes to mind, which, like Feu Secret, gives me images of a beautiful day outdoors in the country. I also get associations with Guerlain Habit Rouge and Hermes Equipage.

    Feu Secret has floral sweetness, and a tiny bit of floral sharpness, and a faint menthol note (like in Vicks VapoRub), and a tiny bit of peppery spice, but the menthol note is faint and distant and buried by the warm, earthy iris (orris root) note that reminds me of hay, and (from the listed notes) by the birch tar giving this a leather smell. Thumbs up for the opening stages of this.

    I'm not immediately drawn to purchasing a full bottle. It's beautiful and artistic. I want to celebrate the artistry, so that gives me an impulse to support the work by buying a bottle, but it's not the kind of fragrance I'm used to wearing, and it might be striking me as more feminine than masculine, so I would have to think more about whether it's something I might wear at all often. I'll have to store the sample away and come back to it later to see how it fits.

    It's definitely an exciting sampling experience. I'll be spritzing it on others to give them a chance to experience it and to hear their reactions.

    As it develops, the menthol-type note comes more to the fore. It makes the fragrance more unique, and possibly more challenging, although it could be something that grows on me.

    Into the base, the vanilla becomes more prominent, and it has some similarity to Dior Homme Intense with the vanilla and iris combination.

    The wood in this starts to fall apart in the base, about five hours in, giving me the kind of cloying, pixelated smell I sometimes get from remnants of laundry detergent in dry clothes - a bad laundry smell (see Frederic Malle bases for good laundry smells).

    I'll have to wear this a second time to get a better feel for it. I loved the top; got the feeling that it had a lot of potential during the mid; and felt like the woods had turned against me in the base. I want to give it a thumbs up for the initial stages, but if the woods turned on me again during a second wearing, I'd have to give it a neutral.
    Last edited by Bavard; 22nd June 2018 at 01:58 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Monserrat - bright, green, fruity/floral musk; commonplace but attractive.
    Lampblack - grapefruit and cypriol with inky vetiver; innovative but not personally compelling.
    Room 237 - plastic atop a soapy musk, not too unconventional; eventually bland.
    Seyrig - aldehydic soapy green floral; straightforward, retro nod, somewhat run of the mill but well done.
    Five - citrus, woods, tinged with metallic hues; compelling and convincing, but my bottle is somewhat less citrusy and a tad more metallic/vaguely oceanic than my sample.
    Au Dela - another soapy green floral, though no aldehydes; good.
    Au Dela Narcisse - a darker spin on Au Dela with narcissus to make for a brilliant floral composition; among the best recent florals I've smelled (together with Adjatay off the top of my head)

    I tried Cadavre Exquis but can't remember much, apart from remembering it as a 'niche' version of something like Prada Candy. Haven't tried the others, very keen to try Feu Secret and Ummagumma.

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Ummagumma - It opens with a food-like accord, with a hint of frankincense in the background, maybe. The food dish is sweet and spicy, mostly sweet. Maybe a sweet cinnamon.

    It's not a great opening. Maybe interesting, but not very wearable, and not something I can imagine wanting to spend a lot of time with.

    Some warmth and maybe some smoke start to appear after a few minutes. The hint of smoke is a promising development. If it develops as a smoky frankincense with a little sweetness, the opening could seem ok in retrospect.

    I only gave this one a couple hours. It wasn't something I was excited about - too far out of my comfort zone, maybe exciting for someone looking for something different. I could give this a second wearing before reviewing it, but based on my first wearing it's a neutral, bordering on thumbs down.
    Last edited by Bavard; 21st June 2018 at 09:16 PM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Fun thread, Bavard. Bruno Fazzolari is one of the few independent perfumers making perfumes that this vintage geek finds interesting, modern, and wearable. I'm enjoying reading your reactions and everyone's comments.

    I tested Fazzolari's earlier group of perfumes some time ago, and I believe used up some of the samples fully (or so I think, I will check).

    Montserrat
    Jimmy
    Lampblack
    Five
    Au Dela

    Out of that group, Au Dela was my hands down favorite. It reminded me strongly of vintage Miss Dior, my favorite perfume of all time. I had to admit that I didn't need Au Dela since I have a quite lot of vintage Miss Dior.

    Then I started noticing the positive reviews for Au Dela Narcisse, and after testing it (thanks to Cacio), I picked up a bottle. I've been wearing ADN often this Spring. It is a gorgeous floral, absolutely worthy of comparison to other narcissus/hyacinth oriented florals that I also enjoy wearing, especially Y, Chamade, Ysatis, Leonard by Leonard (all vintage), and Ostara. Just for fun, I recently applied vintage Ysatis to one arm and Au Dela Narcisse to the other and went to work. They are indeed similar at the outset, with beautiful notes of narcissus and hyacinth, albeit with Ysatis wafting creamy gardenia as well, which is not present in Au Dela Narcisse. In the very late dry down, the modern amber finish of Au Dela Narcisse was unmistakeable, and I was surprised to learn that it is ultimately a much heavier scent than the vintage Ysatis EDT, which had dried to lighter traces of floral notes and some moss. But Au Dela Narcisse remains balanced, elegant, and smooth, giving evidence of the Fazzolari's taste and restraint, and it did not devolve into the all-too familiar clunky, chunky woody amberchemicals.

    More recently, I acquired samples of Feu Secret 2017 and Ummagumma 2017. I tested Feu Secret again and again, wondering if it would be THE modern iris for me, but something didn't click. That search continues, with Cuir Plein Fleur, Le Labo Iris, and Heeley Iris de Nuit remaining in the running. Ummagumma was also not made for me, too much of a gourmand. I'll have to test them again and report back.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    I have so far tried Ummagumma and Unsettled. I liked Ummagumma quite a lot, but it reminded me too closely of Slumberhouse Ore, which I already have. Not identical by any means, but if I was hankering for a dirty, spicy dry gourmand...I've already got that covered. I expected to like Unsettled quite a lot due to the notes pyramid and the praise, so I picked up a decant as a blind buy. Unfortunately I seem to be partly anosmic to it. The scent was just too weak for me to pick up much.
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  9. #9

    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Excited to see your thoughts on Unsettled and Fontevraud. I have mixed feelings on both. Cool concepts, somewhat questionable results.

    I found Fontevraud the more interesting of the two - you just don't expect a big hit of serious, bitter moss to follow such an exuberant sour-tropical opening. It's like stumbling across a raucus fruit market in the Louvre. I've committed to giving Unsettled another go in the warmth. It seemed a little thin for much of its evolution, and I'm hoping warmer air will bring out more smooth sandalwoody warmth.

    I need to break my sample of Feu Secret out again. I gave it one wear, but may have gone a little too light with it, because it didn't seem to reveal its - ahem - secrets during that wear for me. It just seemed like a nice but somewhat bland iris to me at the time, and I didn't get much of the menthol and birch tar counterpoints. I had just recently sniffed New Sibet, which is a rather extreme take on iris, so my nose may still have been off balance from that (P.S., you should try New Sibet if you haven't, it's a trip).

    I love Ummagumma a lot, and to Jux's point, there are some similarities with Ore. I'm finding that I enjoy a well made dry-gourmand ambery things quite a lot, and I have both. Ore is woodier, and heavier on the dry chocolate and has this big, solid feel to it. Ummagumma is more ambery, a little spicier, tighter feeling, and more versatile to me. I adore the opening and did from the start!
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 21st June 2018 at 04:33 PM.
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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Unsettled - The listed notes are Bergamot, China Black Tea, Clary Sage, Pineapple, New Caledonia Sandalwood, Labdanum, Vanilla, and Ocean Breezes.

    It smells surprisingly floral to me for something with no floral notes. I find the opening and mid of this nice and agreeable, wearable. It's not grabbing me during this first wearing as something exciting, but it would be appropriate, and harmless, to wear for a day or an evening at the beach. I would go with a heavy application to immerse myself in it - a larger dose might provide the excitement I'm missing.

    At moments, it strikes me as something artsy, and at other moments, it strikes me as a typical fragrance from Sephora, something from Stella McCartney, say, which I like, but which probably isn't what Fazzolari was going for.

    There's something in the base of this I don't love - a typical synthetic woods type smell - but at the same time it goes fairly quiet, so it's not too bad. It still smells like a beach fragrance though most of the base. Overall, it's mostly a success, borderline neutral/thumbs up - probably neutral because the base wasn't great.
    Last edited by Bavard; 21st June 2018 at 09:30 PM.

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Fontevraud - This has a big flavor. It's not familiar. Bonus points for smelling like something new and different.

    The listed notes are Bergamot, Guava, Pear, Rose, Oakmoss, Opoponax, Patchouli, and Amber. Is it guava giving this its unique character? I can imagine rose, patchouli, and oakmoss in the mix, plus fruit.

    I get a feeling of tea from this. It almost comes across as a nice cup of herbal tea. There's also a hint of powder to it. It's increasingly sweet as it develops.

    This has the feel of quality ingredients in the early stages. It's interesting, but not gripping.

    Overall it has the feeling of potential, but I wouldn't be confident recommending it, and the base is just ok.
    Last edited by Bavard; 21st June 2018 at 09:21 PM.

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Summary

    These are complex, interesting, and different enough to make me want to try them at least a second time. My order of preference was Feu Secret, Fontevraud, Unsettled, and Ummagumma. The first three are probably upbeat neutrals (possibly a thumbs up for Feu Secret), and Ummagumma is borderline thumbs down.

    Feu Secret - Lovely, exciting opening, but the wood base took a bad turn on my skin. The opening of this was the best thing from the four fragrances.

    Fontevraud - Interesting, powdery, fruity fragrance with potential to possibly grow on me, but it didn't quite wow me.

    Unsettled - Interesting beach concept fragrance that mostly works, but another one that didn't quite wow me, and it turned somewhat harsh in the base.

    Ummagumma - Experimental gourmand fragrance with sweetness, spice, and something like frankincense in the background - it didn't seem easily wearable.

    Overall, these weren't a hit with me, similar to recent sampling of the Memo house and Mancera, which didn't click with me either. I had better luck with recent sampling of Etat Libre d'Orange and Parfums de Nicolai.
    Last edited by Bavard; 21st June 2018 at 10:12 PM.

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Fun thread, Bavard. Bruno Fazzolari is one of the few independent perfumers making perfumes that this vintage geek finds interesting, modern, and wearable. I'm enjoying reading your reactions and everyone's comments.

    I tested Fazzolari's earlier group of perfumes some time ago, and I believe used up some of the samples fully (or so I think, I will check).

    Montserrat
    Jimmy
    Lampblack
    Five
    Au Dela

    Out of that group, Au Dela was my hands down favorite. It reminded me strongly of vintage Miss Dior, my favorite perfume of all time. I had to admit that I didn't need Au Dela since I have a quite lot of vintage Miss Dior.

    Then I started noticing the positive reviews for Au Dela Narcisse, and after testing it (thanks to Cacio), I picked up a bottle. I've been wearing ADN often this Spring. It is a gorgeous floral, absolutely worthy of comparison to other narcissus/hyacinth oriented florals that I also enjoy wearing, especially Y, Chamade, Ysatis, Leonard by Leonard (all vintage), and Ostara. Just for fun, I recently applied vintage Ysatis to one arm and Au Dela Narcisse to the other and went to work. They are indeed similar at the outset, with beautiful notes of narcissus and hyacinth, albeit with Ysatis wafting creamy gardenia as well, which is not present in Au Dela Narcisse. In the very late dry down, the modern amber finish of Au Dela Narcisse was unmistakeable, and I was surprised to learn that it is ultimately a much heavier scent than the vintage Ysatis EDT, which had dried to lighter traces of floral notes and some moss. But Au Dela Narcisse remains balanced, elegant, and smooth, giving evidence of the Fazzolari's taste and restraint, and it did not devolve into the all-too familiar clunky, chunky woody amberchemicals.

    More recently, I acquired samples of Feu Secret 2017 and Ummagumma 2017. I tested Feu Secret again and again, wondering if it would be THE modern iris for me, but something didn't click. That search continues, with Cuir Plein Fleur, Le Labo Iris, and Heeley Iris de Nuit remaining in the running. Ummagumma was also not made for me, too much of a gourmand. I'll have to test them again and report back.
    Great post, as always, Grayspoole. I love the kind of comparison wearing you did with Au Dela Narcisse and Ysatis, and enjoyed reading your findings. Au Dela Narcisse is still my clear favorite of the Fazzolari fragrances, with the discontinued Au Dela second.

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    Au Dela Narcisse - a darker spin on Au Dela with narcissus to make for a brilliant floral composition; among the best recent florals I've smelled (together with Adjatay off the top of my head)
    I'll keep an eye out for Adjatay.

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by polarbird View Post
    Just got an Ummagumma sample this week myself. Looking forward to test driving it.
    I think someone who thinks that fragrance releases smell too much like each other, and who wants something truly niche, and unique, would come into sampling Ummagumma with the right mindset.

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by Juxtapozbliss View Post
    I have so far tried Ummagumma and Unsettled. I liked Ummagumma quite a lot, but it reminded me too closely of Slumberhouse Ore, which I already have. Not identical by any means, but if I was hankering for a dirty, spicy dry gourmand...I've already got that covered. I expected to like Unsettled quite a lot due to the notes pyramid and the praise, so I picked up a decant as a blind buy. Unfortunately I seem to be partly anosmic to it. The scent was just too weak for me to pick up much.
    Slumberhouse is my next house to sample.

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Following with interest, as I've yet to dip my toe much into these waters, despite prodding from a Rhode Island hyrax and a Canadian camel.
    I tend to agree with Basenotes icons IsoESuperman and Purecaramel on most things. I don't think I'm feeling quite the same resonance for Fazzolari, though.

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Excited to see your thoughts on Unsettled and Fontevraud. I have mixed feelings on both. Cool concepts, somewhat questionable results.

    I found Fontevraud the more interesting of the two - you just don't expect a big hit of serious, bitter moss to follow such an exuberant sour-tropical opening. It's like stumbling across a raucus fruit market in the Louvre. I've committed to giving Unsettled another go in the warmth. It seemed a little thin for much of its evolution, and I'm hoping warmer air will bring out more smooth sandalwoody warmth.

    I need to break my sample of Feu Secret out again. I gave it one wear, but may have gone a little too light with it, because it didn't seem to reveal its - ahem - secrets during that wear for me. It just seemed like a nice but somewhat bland iris to me at the time, and I didn't get much of the menthol and birch tar counterpoints. I had just recently sniffed New Sibet, which is a rather extreme take on iris, so my nose may still have been off balance from that (P.S., you should try New Sibet if you haven't, it's a trip).

    I love Ummagumma a lot, and to Jux's point, there are some similarities with Ore. I'm finding that I enjoy a well made dry-gourmand ambery things quite a lot, and I have both. Ore is woodier, and heavier on the dry chocolate and has this big, solid feel to it. Ummagumma is more ambery, a little spicier, tighter feeling, and more versatile to me. I adore the opening and did from the start!
    I'll look for New Sibet. Funny that Ummagumma is the one you like. I'm right there with you on Unsettled and Fontevraud. They're both ok - not quite great, but I will give them a second wearing at some point. I can imagine smelling them on someone else, and having my interest piqued from that point of view.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Surprising comments about Lampblack. Fazzolari's most praised and recognized scent, and perhaps his most conventional, even with the morphing from industrial cleaner opening. I would think anyone who likes an inky vetiver with citruses would enjoy that one. Certainly never boring.
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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I'll look for New Sibet. Funny that Ummagumma is the one you like. I'm right there with you on Unsettled and Fontevraud. They're both ok - not quite great, but I will give them a second wearing at some point. I can imagine smelling them on someone else, and having my interest piqued from that point of view.
    Hah, I was just as suprised that you found Ummagumma to be the oddest and most niche-y of the group! In fact (I wrote at much more length about this in the Ummagumma thread that IsoE started), my overriding impression is how straightforwardly attractive and versatile it is, within the gourmand-amber category. It's basically a comfort scent for me!

    Gave Feu Secret another go the other night and did get more of kick out of it than I previously had: much more of the cool-warm feeling with unconventional spices. Still need to spend more time with it, but yes, it's well done and rewards focused attention.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    Surprising comments about Lampblack. Fazzolari's most praised and recognized scent, and perhaps his most conventional, even with the morphing from industrial cleaner opening. I would think anyone who likes an inky vetiver with citruses would enjoy that one. Certainly never boring.
    I do appreciate the artistry of Lampblack, but place it in the same mental category as Tom Ford Noir Anthracite (not that they smell the same - they just bring the same feeling to mind): modern-industrial-ugly, but with a certain dark aesthetic appeal. Something to have around for reference and occasional wearing when in the mood, but not something with which I feel much connection.
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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    I love Feu Secret and have a bottle, but I'm a sucker for iris. I expected to love Au Dela Narcisse and didn't - I kind of liked it but it seemed a bit sharp and almost department store floral. But I have a sample and will give it a proper wear, and may come back to say that was a terrible misjudgment. If Ummagumma carried on like its opening I would have bought it but I wasn't keen on what it settled down to.
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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    I love, worship and adore Au Dela Narcisse, I have rarely had such an emotional reaction to a perfume, I feel strangely comforted knowing such a beauty is being made in this time.
    I have also tried Feu Secret, which I think is very good but not for me, and Ummagumma, which really sings on my skin and I love it and can't be without it.
    And Au Dela is wonderful, and even Jimmy I would love to have a bottle of as a happy, care free spring scent.

    All in all, this guy is my financial ruin!

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    Default Re: Four Fazzolari Samples from 2017 and 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    Surprising comments about Lampblack. Fazzolari's most praised and recognized scent, and perhaps his most conventional, even with the morphing from industrial cleaner opening. I would think anyone who likes an inky vetiver with citruses would enjoy that one. Certainly never boring.
    Lampblack smelled like a dead ringer for CdG Black to me.

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