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  1. #181

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    I have finalized my base!

    Ingredient Amtv Con % Grams w/o Ethanol % in Final Product
    Iso E Super 17.00 100 17.0000 17.0000%
    Helvetolide 14.00 100 14.0000 14.0000%
    Timbersilk 10.00 100 10.0000 10.0000%
    Ambroxan 16.00 40 6.4000 6.4000%
    Lyral 7.00 100 7.0000 7.0000%
    Verymoss 11.00 50 5.5000 5.5000%
    Clearwood 5.00 100 5.0000 5.0000%
    Habanolide 2.50 100 2.5000 2.5000%
    Ambrettolide 2.50 100 2.5000 2.5000%
    Hedione hc 2.00 100 2.0000 2.0000%
    Patchouli Acetate 2.00 100 2.0000 2.0000%
    Vertofix 0.50 100 0.5000 0.5000%
    Ambrox Super 2.00 10 0.2000 0.2000%
    Ambergris essence 0.50 100 0.5000 0.5000%
    Leather Base 0.50 10 0.0500 0.0500%
    Vanillin 2.00 10 0.2000 0.2000%
    IBQ 0.50 10 0.0500 0.0500%
    Oak Moss 214 0.20 10 0.0200 0.0200%
    Isobutavan 2.00 1 0.0200 0.0200%
    Atlas Cedar 3.00 10 0.3000 0.3000%
    Birch Tar Oil 1.00 1 0.0100 0.0100%

    Here are the top note ingredients I am using. I am still constructing my top note accord:

    Bergamot EO
    DHM
    Coranol
    Vertenex
    lemon oil
    Siscuan Pepper
    limonene 65
    Alpha Damascone
    Citral
    Paradisimade
    Cis-3 Hex acetate
    Aldehyde Supra
    c-10
    AAG
    Allyl Cyclohexyl Prop
    Manzanate
    Allyl Heptoanate
    Berryflor
    Ethyl Caproate
    Florhydral
    ethyl butyrate
    Dynascone
    Ethyl Acetate
    pharaone


    And finally a few "blenders" and other components:

    Benzyl Acetate
    benzyl salicylate
    Cis 3 Hexenol
    Norlimbanol
    cassis Base

  2. #182

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Tuscaloosa, it seems your percentages add to about 75%; does that mean you're reserving about 25% for top notes and blenders?

  3. #183

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Correct Alysoun. And if the top doesn't stay around long enough or doesn't perform well, Ill adjust.

  4. #184

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    thx for the update of your project, very good to follow

    i'm wondering about the amount of verymoss, seems very hight to me, especially in combination with that amount of oak moss... is there a specific accord going on somewhere in the base that balances that out? would be interesting to hear!

  5. #185
    Basenotes Member nicotiro's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Quote Originally Posted by tuscaloosatanning View Post
    I have finalized my base!
    congrats tusca! great thread, so nice to learn all these bits. I'm looking forward to perfuming with aroma chemicals and look to these threads for the descriptions and combinations. never heard of creed until I joined basenotes. my perfume knowledge is very very limited, based on brands/perfumes I grew up with/ as a child.
    that said, congrats on your effort and thanks for showing us your progress / how you took suggestions.

  6. #186

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    My percentages are off in my spreadsheet . Ill update in a moment

  7. #187

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Quote Originally Posted by tuscaloosatanning View Post
    As you know, Im learning a lot and am still green. Open to any feedback. Here is what I have so far in my recreation. It is getting better and better!

    Ingredient Amount Concentration % Grams w/o Ethanol % in Final Product
    Timbersilk 6.000 100 6.0000 5.0094%
    Iso E Super 22.000 100 22.0000 18.3678%
    Ambroxan 27.000 40 10.8000 9.0169%
    Helvetolide 20.000 100 20.0000 16.6980%
    Hedione HC 3.000 100 3.0000 2.5047%
    Clearwood 5.000 100 5.0000 4.1745%
    Dynascone 10.000 10 1.0000 0.8349%
    Habanolide 2.500 100 2.5000 2.0872%
    Lyral 7.000 100 7.0000 5.8443%
    Ambrettolide 3.500 100 3.5000 2.9221%
    Bergamot 5.000 100 5.0000 4.1745%
    Ambergris 1.500 100 1.5000 1.2523%
    Verymoss 10.000 50 5.0000 4.1745%
    Vanilla 0.200 100 0.2000 0.1670%
    Patchouli Acetate 1.000 100 1.0000 0.8349%
    Top note accord 1.500 100 1.5000 1.2523%
    Oak Moss Absolute 7.000 10 0.7000 0.5844%
    Lilial 3.000 100 3.0000 2.5047%
    Lapsang Tincture 0.0000 0.0000%
    Muscone 0.600 100 0.6000 0.5009%
    Norlimbanol 5.000 20 1.0000 0.8349%
    Dorinia SA E 0.800 10 0.0800 0.0668%
    Alpha Damascone 0.600 10 0.0600 0.0501%
    Fixateur 505 0.600 100 0.6000 0.5009%
    Paradisimade 0.300 10 0.0300 0.0250%
    Javanol 0.500 10 0.0500 0.0417%
    Linalool 0.500 100 0.5000 0.4174%
    Cashmeran 1.200 100 1.2000 1.0019%
    Precyclemone B 0.100 100 0.1000 0.0835%
    Cis 3 Hex 0.200 10 0.0200 0.0167%
    Cosmone 0.300 100 0.3000 0.2505%
    Amyl Salicylate 0.300 100 0.3000 0.2505%
    Cedramber 0.200 100 0.2000 0.1670%
    Trimofix 0.150 100 0.1500 0.1252%
    Hedione 8.000 100 8.0000 6.6792%
    Ethyl Vanillin 0.300 50 0.1500 0.1252%
    Cade oil 0.050 10 0.0050 0.0042%
    Pyralone 2.700 10 0.2700 0.2254%
    Safraleine 0.600 10 0.0600 0.0501%
    Floralozone 0.200 10 0.0200 0.0167%
    Amber Extreme 3.000 10 0.3000 0.2505%
    Allyl Heptoanate 0.200 100 0.2000 0.1670%
    Vertofix 0.900 100 0.9000 0.7514%
    DHM 4.000 100 4.0000 3.3396%
    Ambrox Super 5.000 20 1.0000 0.8349%
    cassis Base 0.700 100 0.7000 0.5844%
    limonene 65 0.100 100 0.1000 0.0835%
    Grisalva 0.900 20 0.1800 0.1503%
    173.200 119.78 69.1542%
    A great attempt here

    Just a couple of observations. Dynascone and pyralone are extremely powerful so I would reduce the amount you are using. I would use 0.05% dynascone and 0.1-0.15% pyralone (closer to 0.1% would probably be better - go towards the 0.15% if you want to imitate earlier batches of aventus).

    Is it me or is there methyl anthranilate in aventus too?

  8. #188

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Deleted
    Last edited by SharpLess; 6th March 2019 at 05:31 AM.

  9. #189

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Deleted
    Last edited by SharpLess; 6th March 2019 at 05:31 AM.

  10. #190

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    I have finished my formula. I have learned a lot. I have a very good fragrance completed. I need to learn my materials better and how they interact. I'm moving on from this project. I'm going back to creating several accords that I neglected to pursue this. I donate this amateur attempt of one of my favorite fragrances of all time. I'm not sorry I tried to recreate Aventus. It's my favorite scent and I'm dumb enough to think I could get close. Well, this is as close as I can get. The sillage is immense and it projects through concrete walls. I ended with my concentrate at 28%. Its a beast. Learn from my many mistakes and if I may offer some advice: Don't try to replicate a scent note for note agonizing over your dram bottles when something "smells off". Create accords, create bases, be unique, be inspired by something then make your own mark. Here you go friends: If anyone sees anything that looks ridiculous let me know. I would love to send a few ml's to some trained noses here free of charge in hopes I could get some feedback. Let me know.

    Ingredient Amount Concentration % Grams w/o Ethanol % in Final Product

    Hedione 16.00 100 16.0000 17.8991%
    Helvetolide 14.00 100 14.0000 15.6617%
    Timbersilk 10.00 100 10.0000 11.1869%
    Bergamot 9.00 100 9.0000 10.0682%
    Ambrox Super 4.00 100 4.0000 4.4748%
    Iso E Super 4.00 100 4.0000 4.4748%
    Hedione hc 4.00 100 4.0000 4.4748%
    Ambroxan 9.00 40 3.6000 4.0273%
    Clearwood 3.00 100 3.0000 3.3561%
    Lyral 3.00 100 3.0000 3.3561%
    Linalyl Acetate 2.50 100 2.5000 2.7967%
    DHM 2.50 100 2.5000 2.7967%
    Ambrettolide 2.25 100 2.2500 2.5171%
    Patchouli Acetate 2.00 100 2.0000 2.2374%
    Orange EO 2.00 100 2.0000 2.2374%
    Coranol 2.00 100 2.0000 2.2374%
    Pink Pepper 1.60 100 1.6000 1.7899%
    Petitgrain 1.50 100 1.5000 1.6780%
    Patchoulol 1.00 100 1.0000 1.1187%
    Vertofix 1.00 100 1.0000 1.1187%
    Ethyl Linalool 1.00 100 1.0000 1.1187%
    Linalool 0.50 100 0.5000 0.5593%
    Verymoss 1.00 50 0.5000 0.5593%
    Lime 3.00 10 0.3000 0.3356%
    Clary Sage 0.20 100 0.2000 0.2237%
    Manzanate 2.00 10 0.2000 0.2237%
    Vanillin 0.40 50 0.2000 0.2237%
    Dynascone 1.00 10 0.1000 0.1119%
    Citral 2.00 5 0.1000 0.1119%
    cassis Base 1.00 10 0.1000 0.1119%
    Allyl Heptoanate 0.50 10 0.0500 0.0559%
    IBQ 0.50 10 0.0500 0.0559%
    Alpha Damascone 0.50 10 0.0500 0.0559%
    Pineapple Accord 4.00 1 0.0400 0.0447%
    Norlimbanol 2.00 2 0.0400 0.0447%
    muscone 3.00 1 0.0300 0.0336%
    paradismade 0.50 5 0.0250 0.0280%
    Cis 3 Hexenol 2.00 1 0.0200 0.0224%
    Z-11 2.00 1 0.0200 0.0224%
    Oranger Crystals 1.00 2 0.0200 0.0224%
    Cashmeran 2.00 1 0.0200 0.0224%
    Labdanum 0.10 5 0.0050 0.0056%
    Birch Tar 0.50 1 0.0050 0.0056%

  11. #191

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    It does smell really good you guys..

  12. #192
    Basenotes Plus
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    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    I transferred it to my excel sheet, and reformatted it a bit, here's the file...
    http://pkperfumes.com/wp-content/upl...to-try-out.pdf

    Thanks for Posting it, Tuscaloosatanning!

    ooops, one tiny mistake... on the Clary Sage line, that 0.20 is the weight in column 2, ignore that...
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  13. #193

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Good job tusca, my formula looks quite similar but I have about 15 other things and took different routes in terms of musks and a lot more fruity ACs and naturals interplaying. Thank you for sharing with us on your journey, you can really see how much you've grown by reading through the forum and seeing the amounts change and new additions, a great learning experience I bet. I deleted many of my posts on here because a lot of what I was doing was wrong and misleading. I have learned far more since and am embarrassed to even look back and read my older posts, my older formulas were also complete washers, now I have something that sits nicely on the skin albeit still a little rough. I can just about imagine how yours smells in a 15% solution, I will say I used far less DHM because I don't notice much of it in Aventus, but I do use a trace of it for fruity lift purposes and inter-playing with the mids, a touch of Linalyl Anthranilate also does wonders with the Coranol/Linalool core structure.

  14. #194

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Quote Originally Posted by tuscaloosatanning View Post
    It does smell really good you guys..
    Amazing great work, how do you think it smells different to Aventus out of interest? (it probably smells better than it to me, i'm not an aventus fan lol)

  15. #195

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Thank you Paul for the sheet! Im so thankful for you guys. PLEASE let me send you are and sharp a sample. Im sending a few out on Tuesday. If you are willing to smell it and give me feedback. I appreciate the help along the way. Thank you so much.

  16. #196

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Great job Tuscaloosa. It has to feel good to call it done. Congrats and thanks for sharing everything along the way.

  17. #197
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    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Followed this project from beginning to end. Bookmarked, favourited, bought the tee-shirt!
    IF you are in any way dissapointed with the final result (and i dont think you are) then please don't be, for what you have shared and the ammount of learning you have passed on to others via this post is frankly incalculable. You've bared your soul for the passion of the craft, a rarity today.

    Bravo! Encore!

    All the best for your future experiments.

  18. #198

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Quote Originally Posted by GrahamR View Post
    Followed this project from beginning to end. Bookmarked, favourited, bought the tee-shirt!
    IF you are in any way dissapointed with the final result (and i dont think you are) then please don't be, for what you have shared and the ammount of learning you have passed on to others via this post is frankly incalculable. You've bared your soul for the passion of the craft, a rarity today.

    Bravo! Encore!

    All the best for your future experiments.
    Couldn't agree more!

  19. #199

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    Hopefully my final question on this thread and I will send the samples out to those who messaged me. The top smells good, the base smells good, but there is something that shows up about 45 minutes in that smells tart or slightly rotten. I'm struggling to identify what it is. It smells tart for about 30 minutes then the base takes over. I laid out the chems that I thought could be the culprit. I may mix one more time without these chems, then add one at a time after a week or two of maceration.
    Here is what I am thinking:
    Alpha Damascone at .05% - This is the most likely in my opinion. Strong,
    Isobutyl Quinoline at .05% - This is so hard to work with, but I LOVE the smell of it. It can overwhelm the fragrance though. Alone, it doesn't smell tart or fruity rotten, it smells vegetal, green, leather. I know IBQ-2 is found in Aventus and has a different profile so Im not sure whether more IBQ is needed or less.
    Citral at .11% - I hate the smell of this stuff but I know it supports my bergamot and orange. Could this small of an amount make it go south?
    Cassis Base at .11% - This has the scent profile of the possible culprit but again can .11% throw it off?

    BTW, unless it takes a while for oranger crystals to macerate and calm down, I am going to remove Oranger C.

    I really cant wait to get feedback when you guys get your nose on it instead of just seeing the formula.
    Thanks,
    Adam Lewis

  20. #200

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    It's the DHM! Nah not likely but I really think It could be one of your naturals have gone bad. Most synthetics don't go sour from my experience (as of yet all of mine are still relatively new), or it could be a blend of synthetics creating a strange aroma. The only way to know is to put your suspects diluted on the skin isolated and see which one does go sour, that's all I can suggest.

  21. #201
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    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    could be the citral... you could also try some citral diethyl acetal as part of your citral portion... oops, no one but my nemesis PW sells it in small amounts...
    Maybe I should buy a kg, and send half to Christine...
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  22. #202

    Default Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    I certainly notice Citral in Aventus, specially my batch 17Y02, also tested a 1% dilution on my skin and it stayed linear and didn't go sour at all so it's something else. I got mine from Susan at CP.




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