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  1. #1

    Default Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    With the electronic version of The Guide 2018 released, has anyone had an opportunity to run across any interesting tidbits?
    Currently wearing: L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

  2. #2
    Duke Hunt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    That Alaia got 5 stars.

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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Duke Hunt View Post
    That Alaia got 5 stars.


    I wanted to feel that way, but got more wow out of Wanted (1 star plus much scorn)!
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines

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    Duke Hunt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    The big one was Aventus @ 4 stars though.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Luca has caught on to the fact that Ellena didn't put much care into his Hermès stuff anymore at some point. I never thought much of the Jardin series to begin with, but Mr. Li is the first one to get a thumbs down here.

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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    Luca has caught on to the fact that Ellena didn't put much care into his Hermès stuff anymore at some point. I never thought much of the Jardin series to begin with, but Mr. Li is the first one to get a thumbs down here.
    YES. Nil made me wake up, buy it, and go back and collect Méditerranée, and I tolerated the overall oddity of Mousson for its wonderful magic moments. Toit was the first one where I hemmed and hawed, but eventually got it - I think - not kidding - have to check - - LOL. But M. Li just lost me. Unnecessary.
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines

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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    I remember he had been very positive on Alaia and negative on Li somewhere before (stylearabia perhaps?)

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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Parfums di Nicolai New York Intense. 'powdery biscuit' according to Luca Turin is apparently a 5-star masterpiece.

    Quote Originally Posted by Duke Hunt View Post
    The big one was Aventus @ 4 stars though.
    You can thank epapsiou for that. See Post #14 in old thread.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    ...


    You can thank epapsiou for that. See Post #14 in old thread.
    That thread is now hilarious in retrospect!
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines

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    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    That there are even a hell of a lot more things I want to sample than I expected.

  11. #11
    Super Member zachong's Avatar
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Parfums di Nicolai New York Intense. 'powdery biscuit' according to Luca Turin is apparently a 5-star masterpiece.



    You can thank epapsiou for that. See Post #14 in old thread.
    That sounds promising! I remember him saying about the original that even in the hands of a master perfumer it couldn't be saved from reformulations. Now I've got to hunt it down.

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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    That there are even a hell of a lot more things I want to sample than I expected.
    YES!

    This reminds me how the first guide changed my wardrobe. I tried many new fragrances based on a desire to sample all of the 5-star fragrances, and most of the 4-star scents, as well as the 1-star. I obtained many of them (including 1-star), always noting the truth of what Luca and Tania had written.
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines

  13. #13

    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    the 4 stars for Aventus was flagged up some time ago

    Monsieur Li is the only one I like from the Jardins -- oh well

  14. #14

    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Biggest surprise is that I don't recognize most of the perfume houses - I feel like an old man listening to Top 40.

    Sadly, I'm also at the point where I don't care to seek out the unknown.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    That there are even a hell of a lot more things I want to sample than I expected.
    Same here. I've started a list of perfumes to find while in duty free coming up. Several houses I've never heard of before (living in a rural area for 3 years will do that).
    Currently wearing: Mojave Ghost by Byredo

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post


    I wanted to feel that way, but got more wow out of Wanted (1 star plus much scorn)!
    Why? It's atrocious mall stink.

    Even here, more people talk about the stupid ammosexual bottle than what's contained therein.

    Garbage.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Bond-T by Sammarco

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    Biggest surprise is that I don't recognize most of the perfume houses - I feel like an old man listening to Top 40.

    Sadly, I'm also at the point where I don't care to seek out the unknown.
    Same here. A lot of houses I've never heard of before, and I thought I was reasonably up on this stuff.

    Seeking out the unknown used to be a lot more fun, but the realization that even if you find the latest new great thing, it's likely to be $250 for 50ml, or $10 for not even a 1ml sample. That's enough to give anyone pause.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Bond-T by Sammarco

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    Same here. A lot of houses I've never heard of before, and I thought I was reasonably up on this stuff.

    Seeking out the unknown used to be a lot more fun, but the realization that even if you find the latest new great thing, it's likely to be $250 for 50ml, or $10 for not even a 1ml sample. That's enough to give anyone pause.
    Yes and to add insult to injury, by the time you do finally pull the trigger it’s either been reformulated 10 times or suffering from “batch variation”.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    Same here. A lot of houses I've never heard of before, and I thought I was reasonably up on this stuff.

    Seeking out the unknown used to be a lot more fun, but the realization that even if you find the latest new great thing, it's likely to be $250 for 50ml, or $10 for not even a 1ml sample. That's enough to give anyone pause.
    Seriously - and the one sample I thought I would seek out sent me a message saying they won't ship to Canada. Sigh.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    It's what I said in another thread -- 'Niche' is becoming a con for most people

    Designer fragrances are a con to but it's costing us less to learn the lesson

  21. #21

    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    It's what I said in another thread -- 'Niche' is becoming a con for most people

    Designer fragrances are a con to but it's costing us less to learn the lesson
    Agreed.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    Same here. A lot of houses I've never heard of before, and I thought I was reasonably up on this stuff.

    Seeking out the unknown used to be a lot more fun, but the realization that even if you find the latest new great thing, it's likely to be $250 for 50ml, or $10 for not even a 1ml sample. That's enough to give anyone pause.
    I know in the next year I'm gonna have to tighten my perfume budget. I often sit on buying certain perfumes until I'm absolutely sure I want to spend the cash on a full size. Even buying samples has become a belt tightener.
    Currently wearing: Mojave Ghost by Byredo

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    Why? It's atrocious mall stink.

    Even here, more people talk about the stupid ammosexual bottle than what's contained therein.

    Garbage.
    Why not? It's the best of generic masculine fragrance and the best of cleaning products in one scent!
    There is no beauty / That cannot be more abused / To beauty's effect.
    / blog:// https://cologniac.com / raging for the machines

  24. #24

    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    1) I am surprised there are no entries for Le Labo or House of Matriarch.
    2) I was surprised about Areej le Dore's low scores at first, but than I thought that Mr. Turin probably sniffed a lot of real deer musk and high quality ouds, so it's not such a novelty for him and the compositions themselves aren't that great I guess
    3) I am sad surprised ELdO's Une Amourette got low score, I think it's great
    4) I am happy surprised Orto Parisi line was bashed, I think they're terrible and overhyped af!
    5) I am happy surprised Mr. Turin is a fan of smoky fragrances, it is my favourite genre

  25. #25

    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Duke Hunt View Post
    That Alaia got 5 stars.
    Alaia deserves 5 stars. *blows raspberry*

    Two big surprises for me:
    1) Hermès Twilly getting 5 stars (not that I dislike it, just rather unexpected!) and
    2) Hermès Twilly being listed among the top ten masculines.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    I've been perusing the new guide for a couple of days now and here are some impressions.

    1. Francis Kurkdjian's creations are apparently not Luca's bag. At all.
    2. The Aventus rating, though obviously controversial, is to me not all that surprising.
    3. Serge Lutens is out and Luca loves trashing his creations.
    4. Roja Dove, too, is relegated to the nether regions of Luca's review scale. I mostly agree.

    In general, I get the feeling Luca leans towards high ratings for houses and fragrances that push the artistic envelope. Which is not surprising.

    What is surprising, is the glaring omission of so many houses and perfumes. You may think that the guide is a large update, but I cannot understand why so many houses and perfumes are simply missing. Despite being readily available.

    Examples: Le Labo, Xerjoff, Boadicea the Victorious, etc.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    So is the 4 star Aventus review high or low?

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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Why not? It's the best of generic masculine fragrance and the best of cleaning products in one scent!
    Not to mention it's also a nifty floor wax AND a commercial grade paint remover..
    Only the fool would take trouble to verify that his sentence was composed of ten a’s, three b’s, four c’s, four d’s, forty-six e’s, sixteen f’s, four g’s, thirteen h’s, fifteen i’s, two k’s, nine l’s, four m’s, twenty-five n’s, twenty-four o’s, five p’s, sixteen r’s, forty-one s’s, thirty-seven t’s, ten u’s, eight v’s, eight w’s, four x’s, eleven y’s, twenty-seven commas, twenty-three apostrophes, seven hyphens and, last but not least, a single!

    Go ahead. Test the veracity of this (1960s I think) pre-computer generated masterpiece of self-referential sentences.
    Currently wearing: Unforgivable by Sean John

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    I'm still processing (and only up to letter D), and I'm trying not to skip ahead to looks at some of my pet loves and pet peeves to see if they get mentioned. (Although I did skim the 5 star ratings just to make sure that nothing inexpensive I've been thinking about buying made the cut; because, FWIW, I actually love Alaia (and I also love the Blanche variation); so I had to pull the trigger on a tester bottle sooner than I had planned. I literally watched the Fragrancenet inventory drop from 6 to 1 within 2 hours today.

    One very pleasant surprise was in the dedications: congratulations, Pluran--your name is in lights.

  30. #30
    Basenotes Institution Darjeeling's Avatar
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    Default Re: Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    the 4 stars for Aventus was flagged up some time ago

    Monsieur Li is the only one I like from the Jardins -- oh well
    thats ok. I quite like it too. Enough to get a small decant. Still prefer Nil. I can understand how Li could be viewed as a generic, cynical pitch to the Asian market.
    1. No, never blind buy (I do, but do as I say, not as I do. I'm taking no responsibility for your fragrance gambling).
    2. Get them both. You're a Basenoter and you know you're going to end up purchasing them both eventually.
    3. Yes, it has been reformulated.
    4. Looking for a signature scent? You've come to the wrong place.




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