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  1. #31

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by Surfacing View Post
    Not to be negative or anything, but I don't expect much in terms of new releases from Aramis. Sure their old collection is good, but the constant flankers of Aramis ( original) have never really been received well. When a mainstream brand mentions tobacco, I read that as candy sweet tonka.
    I didn't want to be the one to break the enthusiasm, but yeah, this thread reads as if the last 10 years of Aramis flanker never happened. Modern Leather, Voyager, Impeccable, Gentleman, Black... not one of these received significant praise and most of them were in bargain bins within a year. I will sample if I get the chance of course, but I think with Aramis the best we can do is be thankful that the original still smells good and the Gentlemen's Collection is being well looked after. As far as new releases they've lost the plot trying to attract the younger crowd when they should be stealing customers away from Tom Ford.
    Currently wearing: Patchouli by Floris

  2. #32

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by Derbyman View Post
    Thanks dan, I had it in mind to look in John Lewis when I next had the chance. Disappointed to hear it is tonka-heavy as it's not a favourite note of mine when dialled up - especially in warmer weather (though the summer we're experiencing at present isn't anywhere near the typical UK summer, ie: rain...!). I'll still give it a try though when I see it. Cheers!
    No problem and no this definitely isn't your average UK summer! An overcast day here although the sun came out after 4pm. The shops I went in to were stifling!


    I've not long come home from a walk and the Tobacco Reserve drydown is becoming a skin scent - almost 7 hours after I sprayed it. It's certainly outlasted the Tom Ford patchouli absolu, which I sprayed on the other arm about 10 minutes before as I was leaving our House of Fraser branch.

    I'd say this is as sweet as the drydown of Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme on my skin.

  3. #33

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by Pauer_Haus View Post
    I didn't want to be the one to break the enthusiasm, but yeah, this thread reads as if the last 10 years of Aramis flanker never happened. Modern Leather, Voyager, Impeccable, Gentleman, Black... not one of these received significant praise and most of them were in bargain bins within a year. I will sample if I get the chance of course, but I think with Aramis the best we can do is be thankful that the original still smells good and the Gentlemen's Collection is being well looked after. As far as new releases they've lost the plot trying to attract the younger crowd when they should be stealing customers away from Tom Ford.
    Quite right! For me their best fragrances in the last few years have been some of the ones produced for the Ermenegildo Zegna Essenze line.
    I bought a reduced price Christmas gift set of Voyager the year it came out and have probably worn it twice. Black intrigued me initially the first time I wore it because it brought to mind a perfume one of my Mum's friends wore when I was younger. Modern Leather's inoffensive but I've not been tempted to buy a bottle.

  4. #34
    Dependent NickZee's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by dan86 View Post
    I spotted this in my local John Lewis branch today. I think Diamondflame is going to be disappointed because I find this very heavy on tonka a good few hours after I sprayed it on my arm.

    It's over 5 hours since I sprayed it on my arm and the sweet drydown is still going strong. The sweet tonka heavy stage developed quickly on my skin so it's been the most remarkable thing about the scent to my nose.

    It's a dry and humid summer evening in my part of the UK. The sweetness isn't what I would usually want this time of year. I think it is more suited to winter.

    It's worth trying.
    Unfortunately these days when fragrance houses list tobacco, tonka and/or coumarin, it’s all the same aromachemical.

    This tonka molecule has a hay like after-smell, and someone thought they were clever by marketing it as tobacco instead of the more accurate but not as catchy “imprecise attempt at synthesising coumarin”. For example, two pioneers in this field were Herod and Back to Black, both of which are tonka bombs.

    It also meant that fragrance houses could continue loading up men’s fragrance with this cheap tonka note but avoid the negative fragcomm reactions associated with “tonka bombs” which became so prevalent in the early 2010s. Tonka releases at this time were greeted with big sighs and eyes rolling back into their sockets.

    “Hey guys” they said...,”it’s not tonka, it’s your favorite, tobacco!”. It worked for a while and Herod took off to become a huge success with younger guys. They had discovered a gold mine, just say TOBACCO and wait for the $$$$ to come rolling in.

    Now every time I see both tonka and tobacco listed in new releases, I know what to expect

  5. #35

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Interesting stuff, cheers Nick. Never realised these were all the same thing. I suppose the effect is different depending on what other notes are present but the tonka/coumarin/sweet tobacco note is so readily identifiable once zoned in on I suppose it's difficult to get past it. After reading your post I did a bit of 'Google research(!)' and found that coumarin is sometimes added to tobacco (especially the sweet, aromatic varieties) as an aroma enhancer. What I'm now expecting from Aramis Tobacco Reserve is a Bogart Pour Homme type of thing where I was hoping for more of a Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Cuba/Aramis mash-up. Not gonna happen is it....!

  6. #36

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by NickZee View Post
    Unfortunately these days when fragrance houses list tobacco, tonka and/or coumarin, it’s all the same aromachemical.

    This tonka molecule has a hay like after-smell, and someone thought they were clever by marketing it as tobacco instead of the more accurate but not as catchy “imprecise attempt at synthesising coumarin”. For example, two pioneers in this field were Herod and Back to Black, both of which are tonka bombs.

    It also meant that fragrance houses could continue loading up men’s fragrance with this cheap tonka note but avoid the negative fragcomm reactions associated with “tonka bombs” which became so prevalent in the early 2010s. Tonka releases at this time were greeted with big sighs and eyes rolling back into their sockets.

    “Hey guys” they said...,”it’s not tonka, it’s your favorite, tobacco!”. It worked for a while and Herod took off to become a huge success with younger guys. They had discovered a gold mine, just say TOBACCO and wait for the $$$$ to come rolling in.

    Now every time I see both tonka and tobacco listed in new releases, I know what to expect
    Interesting. I’m not sure what to make of this. The tonka used in something like Herod, to me, is very different than the tonka used in a true tonka bomb like Allure Homme Sport or Eau Extreme. In fact, Herod smells pretty much like tobacco to me, whether or not it’s tonka creating this smell I honestly don’t know, but I never thought of Herod as a tonka bomb. I can’t say for other modern releases, though I could see it happening in something like Hanae Mori HiM...I don’t doubt what you’re saying, just questioning whether it’s as direct a substitute as you’re saying, particularly in Herod (and B2B as well) which, if it is indeed tonka, they did a wonderful job of disguising it and fooled some pretty serious noses. I’m curious, when you smell Herod does it smell like tobacco to you or tonka? I’m wondering because I’ve heard some other members question Herod’s tobacco as well. And although it may not contain any actual tobacco Absolute, I always thought it smelled pretty much like tobacco, i.e., a good interpretation of it (and as you know, most notes are merely synthetic interpretations) What’s your take on the tobacco in Herod? Well disguised tonka? Poorly disguised? Was this brought to your attention or something you noticed immediately?

  7. #37

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    I agree ive never thought of herod as a tonka bean scent ever so im pretty confused. Im not a note monster by any means so I dunno about all the different kinds of potential tonka as a note, or different tonka mixes whatever. But certainly when I think of tonka bean there are certain fragrances where it comes off as different to me. And herod ive never thought of as any kinda tonka bean scent period.

    I agree that eau extreme is a big tonka bean scent, and the tonka in that reminds me of something like sublime vanillas tonka. Where as say something like one million prives tonka is similar to pure tonka. Gonna stop there as tons more examples of course but... Sometimes you get that sorta potentially thick powdery almost potentially funky smell. And other times its more of a yummy buttery kinda mix. I can see herod as being yummy because it has tobacco(or at least what ill take as tobacco)and that vanilla with the cedar in the dry down makes it smell "chewy" in a sense. But I certainly have never gotten that I recall any kind of tonka powdery vibe from it what so ever.

  8. #38
    Dependent NickZee's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    When I think of tobacco I think of Frapin Speakeasy, Miller Harris Feuilles De Tabac, Tom Ford Tobacco Oud or Tobacco Vanille and Rania J Habanero. I also get tobacco in sweeter scents like Pure Havanne. Heck, even Dolce & Gabanna The One gives me a tobacco fix, albeit a small one.

    But I struggle to get these sort of tobacco notes in Herod. What I do get is a slight hay note that is typical of synthesised coumarin. I say hay, you say tobacco. If you ever try and buy fragrance materials, you will see each synthetic materials has 10+ notes listed because they don’t neatly fit into just one note. They can be viewed from a number of angles, some more convincing than others.

    Herod’s Tobacco note has always been a point of debate, I don’t think I have raised anything new in my post. Granted there is not a consensus view (there is never a consensus view in the fragrance community), but there has always been debate. Maybe batch variations have something to do with it.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by NickZee View Post
    When I think of tobacco I think of Frapin Speakeasy, Miller Harris Feuilles De Tabac, Tom Ford Tobacco Oud or Tobacco Vanille and Rania J Habanero. I also get tobacco in sweeter scents like Pure Havanne. Heck, even Dolce & Gabanna The One gives me a tobacco fix, albeit a small one.

    But I struggle to get these sort of tobacco notes in Herod. What I do get is a slight hay note that is typical of synthesised coumarin. I say hay, you say tobacco. If you ever try and buy fragrance materials, you will see each synthetic materials has 10+ notes listed because they don’t neatly fit into just one note. They can be viewed from a number of angles, some more convincing than others.

    Herod’s Tobacco note has always been a point of debate, I don’t think I have raised anything new in my post. Granted there is not a consensus view (there is never a consensus view in the fragrance community), but there has always been debate. Maybe batch variations have something to do with it.
    Agree with you. Herod is more confectionery, pastry like, than tobacco. Dry ISO-E super, pepper and a cherry like osmanthus doesnt count.
    Speakeasy is a good example of tobacco absolute.
    Odori Tabacco is also excellent but unobtainium now.

    Tobacco is earthy, leathery, pungent. Not "yummy".
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  10. #40
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    The beauty of fragrances - to each their own perception.
    "And I am a weapon of massive consumption
    and its not my fault its how I'm program to function"
    Currently wearing: Orage by Louis Vuitton

  11. #41

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Ah if that "yummy" comment is supposed to be a shot at what I said, I do find tobaccco fragrances often to smell yummy, comfortable and relaxing. Hell I remember when I was talking to daniel when he was making his barista line he said he was purposely using a particular fruity tobacco when he made it

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