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  1. #31

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by Surfacing View Post
    Not to be negative or anything, but I don't expect much in terms of new releases from Aramis. Sure their old collection is good, but the constant flankers of Aramis ( original) have never really been received well. When a mainstream brand mentions tobacco, I read that as candy sweet tonka.
    I didn't want to be the one to break the enthusiasm, but yeah, this thread reads as if the last 10 years of Aramis flanker never happened. Modern Leather, Voyager, Impeccable, Gentleman, Black... not one of these received significant praise and most of them were in bargain bins within a year. I will sample if I get the chance of course, but I think with Aramis the best we can do is be thankful that the original still smells good and the Gentlemen's Collection is being well looked after. As far as new releases they've lost the plot trying to attract the younger crowd when they should be stealing customers away from Tom Ford.

  2. #32

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by Derbyman View Post
    Thanks dan, I had it in mind to look in John Lewis when I next had the chance. Disappointed to hear it is tonka-heavy as it's not a favourite note of mine when dialled up - especially in warmer weather (though the summer we're experiencing at present isn't anywhere near the typical UK summer, ie: rain...!). I'll still give it a try though when I see it. Cheers!
    No problem and no this definitely isn't your average UK summer! An overcast day here although the sun came out after 4pm. The shops I went in to were stifling!


    I've not long come home from a walk and the Tobacco Reserve drydown is becoming a skin scent - almost 7 hours after I sprayed it. It's certainly outlasted the Tom Ford patchouli absolu, which I sprayed on the other arm about 10 minutes before as I was leaving our House of Fraser branch.

    I'd say this is as sweet as the drydown of Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme on my skin.

  3. #33

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by Pauer_Haus View Post
    I didn't want to be the one to break the enthusiasm, but yeah, this thread reads as if the last 10 years of Aramis flanker never happened. Modern Leather, Voyager, Impeccable, Gentleman, Black... not one of these received significant praise and most of them were in bargain bins within a year. I will sample if I get the chance of course, but I think with Aramis the best we can do is be thankful that the original still smells good and the Gentlemen's Collection is being well looked after. As far as new releases they've lost the plot trying to attract the younger crowd when they should be stealing customers away from Tom Ford.
    Quite right! For me their best fragrances in the last few years have been some of the ones produced for the Ermenegildo Zegna Essenze line.
    I bought a reduced price Christmas gift set of Voyager the year it came out and have probably worn it twice. Black intrigued me initially the first time I wore it because it brought to mind a perfume one of my Mum's friends wore when I was younger. Modern Leather's inoffensive but I've not been tempted to buy a bottle.

  4. #34
    Dependent NickZee's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by dan86 View Post
    I spotted this in my local John Lewis branch today. I think Diamondflame is going to be disappointed because I find this very heavy on tonka a good few hours after I sprayed it on my arm.

    It's over 5 hours since I sprayed it on my arm and the sweet drydown is still going strong. The sweet tonka heavy stage developed quickly on my skin so it's been the most remarkable thing about the scent to my nose.

    It's a dry and humid summer evening in my part of the UK. The sweetness isn't what I would usually want this time of year. I think it is more suited to winter.

    It's worth trying.
    Unfortunately these days when fragrance houses list tobacco, tonka and/or coumarin, it’s all the same aromachemical.

    This tonka molecule has a hay like after-smell, and someone thought they were clever by marketing it as tobacco instead of the more accurate but not as catchy “imprecise attempt at synthesising coumarin”. For example, two pioneers in this field were Herod and Back to Black, both of which are tonka bombs.

    It also meant that fragrance houses could continue loading up men’s fragrance with this cheap tonka note but avoid the negative fragcomm reactions associated with “tonka bombs” which became so prevalent in the early 2010s. Tonka releases at this time were greeted with big sighs and eyes rolling back into their sockets.

    “Hey guys” they said...,”it’s not tonka, it’s your favorite, tobacco!”. It worked for a while and Herod took off to become a huge success with younger guys. They had discovered a gold mine, just say TOBACCO and wait for the $$$$ to come rolling in.

    Now every time I see both tonka and tobacco listed in new releases, I know what to expect
    Currently wearing: L'Oudh by Tauer

  5. #35

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Interesting stuff, cheers Nick. Never realised these were all the same thing. I suppose the effect is different depending on what other notes are present but the tonka/coumarin/sweet tobacco note is so readily identifiable once zoned in on I suppose it's difficult to get past it. After reading your post I did a bit of 'Google research(!)' and found that coumarin is sometimes added to tobacco (especially the sweet, aromatic varieties) as an aroma enhancer. What I'm now expecting from Aramis Tobacco Reserve is a Bogart Pour Homme type of thing where I was hoping for more of a Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Cuba/Aramis mash-up. Not gonna happen is it....!

  6. #36

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by NickZee View Post
    Unfortunately these days when fragrance houses list tobacco, tonka and/or coumarin, it’s all the same aromachemical.

    This tonka molecule has a hay like after-smell, and someone thought they were clever by marketing it as tobacco instead of the more accurate but not as catchy “imprecise attempt at synthesising coumarin”. For example, two pioneers in this field were Herod and Back to Black, both of which are tonka bombs.

    It also meant that fragrance houses could continue loading up men’s fragrance with this cheap tonka note but avoid the negative fragcomm reactions associated with “tonka bombs” which became so prevalent in the early 2010s. Tonka releases at this time were greeted with big sighs and eyes rolling back into their sockets.

    “Hey guys” they said...,”it’s not tonka, it’s your favorite, tobacco!”. It worked for a while and Herod took off to become a huge success with younger guys. They had discovered a gold mine, just say TOBACCO and wait for the $$$$ to come rolling in.

    Now every time I see both tonka and tobacco listed in new releases, I know what to expect
    Interesting. I’m not sure what to make of this. The tonka used in something like Herod, to me, is very different than the tonka used in a true tonka bomb like Allure Homme Sport or Eau Extreme. In fact, Herod smells pretty much like tobacco to me, whether or not it’s tonka creating this smell I honestly don’t know, but I never thought of Herod as a tonka bomb. I can’t say for other modern releases, though I could see it happening in something like Hanae Mori HiM...I don’t doubt what you’re saying, just questioning whether it’s as direct a substitute as you’re saying, particularly in Herod (and B2B as well) which, if it is indeed tonka, they did a wonderful job of disguising it and fooled some pretty serious noses. I’m curious, when you smell Herod does it smell like tobacco to you or tonka? I’m wondering because I’ve heard some other members question Herod’s tobacco as well. And although it may not contain any actual tobacco Absolute, I always thought it smelled pretty much like tobacco, i.e., a good interpretation of it (and as you know, most notes are merely synthetic interpretations) What’s your take on the tobacco in Herod? Well disguised tonka? Poorly disguised? Was this brought to your attention or something you noticed immediately?

  7. #37

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    I agree ive never thought of herod as a tonka bean scent ever so im pretty confused. Im not a note monster by any means so I dunno about all the different kinds of potential tonka as a note, or different tonka mixes whatever. But certainly when I think of tonka bean there are certain fragrances where it comes off as different to me. And herod ive never thought of as any kinda tonka bean scent period.

    I agree that eau extreme is a big tonka bean scent, and the tonka in that reminds me of something like sublime vanillas tonka. Where as say something like one million prives tonka is similar to pure tonka. Gonna stop there as tons more examples of course but... Sometimes you get that sorta potentially thick powdery almost potentially funky smell. And other times its more of a yummy buttery kinda mix. I can see herod as being yummy because it has tobacco(or at least what ill take as tobacco)and that vanilla with the cedar in the dry down makes it smell "chewy" in a sense. But I certainly have never gotten that I recall any kind of tonka powdery vibe from it what so ever.

  8. #38
    Dependent NickZee's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    When I think of tobacco I think of Frapin Speakeasy, Miller Harris Feuilles De Tabac, Tom Ford Tobacco Oud or Tobacco Vanille and Rania J Habanero. I also get tobacco in sweeter scents like Pure Havanne. Heck, even Dolce & Gabanna The One gives me a tobacco fix, albeit a small one.

    But I struggle to get these sort of tobacco notes in Herod. What I do get is a slight hay note that is typical of synthesised coumarin. I say hay, you say tobacco. If you ever try and buy fragrance materials, you will see each synthetic materials has 10+ notes listed because they don’t neatly fit into just one note. They can be viewed from a number of angles, some more convincing than others.

    Herod’s Tobacco note has always been a point of debate, I don’t think I have raised anything new in my post. Granted there is not a consensus view (there is never a consensus view in the fragrance community), but there has always been debate. Maybe batch variations have something to do with it.
    Currently wearing: L'Oudh by Tauer

  9. #39
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by NickZee View Post
    When I think of tobacco I think of Frapin Speakeasy, Miller Harris Feuilles De Tabac, Tom Ford Tobacco Oud or Tobacco Vanille and Rania J Habanero. I also get tobacco in sweeter scents like Pure Havanne. Heck, even Dolce & Gabanna The One gives me a tobacco fix, albeit a small one.

    But I struggle to get these sort of tobacco notes in Herod. What I do get is a slight hay note that is typical of synthesised coumarin. I say hay, you say tobacco. If you ever try and buy fragrance materials, you will see each synthetic materials has 10+ notes listed because they don’t neatly fit into just one note. They can be viewed from a number of angles, some more convincing than others.

    Herod’s Tobacco note has always been a point of debate, I don’t think I have raised anything new in my post. Granted there is not a consensus view (there is never a consensus view in the fragrance community), but there has always been debate. Maybe batch variations have something to do with it.
    Agree with you. Herod is more confectionery, pastry like, than tobacco. Dry ISO-E super, pepper and a cherry like osmanthus doesnt count.
    Speakeasy is a good example of tobacco absolute.
    Odori Tabacco is also excellent but unobtainium now.

    Tobacco is earthy, leathery, pungent. Not "yummy".
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  10. #40
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    The beauty of fragrances - to each their own perception.
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  11. #41

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Ah if that "yummy" comment is supposed to be a shot at what I said, I do find tobaccco fragrances often to smell yummy, comfortable and relaxing. Hell I remember when I was talking to daniel when he was making his barista line he said he was purposely using a particular fruity tobacco when he made it

  12. #42

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Is this available in the US? Can’t find it at any department store

  13. #43
    Dependent RichMan'sOldSpice's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by ahmad-a View Post
    Aramis has launched Aramis Tobacco Reserve, a new fragrance for men.

    A new interpretation of an iconic classic, Aramis Tobacco Reserve epitomises the Aramis man in every way; alluring, sophisticated and complex.

    Created as an eau de parfum for heightened intensity, a masculine heart of bold, tobacco leaf is enveloped by Clary Sage and the subtle sweetness of Tonka Bean.

    Additional notes include cassis, nutmeg, orris and oakmoss


    This could be awesome! I love tobacco and iris and tonka. Cassis was in tobacco oud if I remember correctly. Anyone get a chance at this one yet?

    This is one I would like to try, just based on their description and my enjoyment of Aramis' other men's fragrances (Havana, Tuscany, Original Aramis..).

  14. #44

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    I finally got to try this last week. There's certainly an amount of tonka/coumarin as NickZee and others suspected but I have to say I really liked it. It has a cosiness and a comforting smell which took me aback a bit. It gave me a sense of deja vu - probably a personal thing but really gave me a sense of comfort and well-being. Weird! The other aspect which took me by surprise was that in the drydown there is a note which really reminded me of Mancera Red Tobacco. It's the slightly scratchy tobacco-type note which screams out in the Mancera but in the Aramis, underpinned with the sweetish tonka, it gave a surprising serious tobacco element to the scent. I'd quite like a bottle of this...damn...!

  15. #45
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Interesting fragrance as so it seems but (as far as I noticed after quick search) pretty difficult to get here.....
    My Top '11' :

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    - YSL: Kouros (Fraîcheur)
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    - Amouage: Interlude

  16. #46
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by Derbyman View Post
    I finally got to try this last week. There's certainly an amount of tonka/coumarin as NickZee and others suspected but I have to say I really liked it. It has a cosiness and a comforting smell which took me aback a bit. It gave me a sense of deja vu - probably a personal thing but really gave me a sense of comfort and well-being. Weird! The other aspect which took me by surprise was that in the drydown there is a note which really reminded me of Mancera Red Tobacco. It's the slightly scratchy tobacco-type note which screams out in the Mancera but in the Aramis, underpinned with the sweetish tonka, it gave a surprising serious tobacco element to the scent. I'd quite like a bottle of this...damn...!
    Do you feel this is a better release than Aramis Modern Leather, the reviews are all over the place on that one most say original Aramis is far superior.

  17. #47

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    How does it compare to Lynx Tobacco & Amber?

  18. #48
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by raygsoko View Post
    The beauty of fragrances - to each their own perception.
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  19. #49
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by Derbyman View Post
    I finally got to try this last week. There's certainly an amount of tonka/coumarin as NickZee and others suspected but I have to say I really liked it. It has a cosiness and a comforting smell which took me aback a bit. It gave me a sense of deja vu - probably a personal thing but really gave me a sense of comfort and well-being. Weird! The other aspect which took me by surprise was that in the drydown there is a note which really reminded me of Mancera Red Tobacco. It's the slightly scratchy tobacco-type note which screams out in the Mancera but in the Aramis, underpinned with the sweetish tonka, it gave a surprising serious tobacco element to the scent. I'd quite like a bottle of this...damn...!
    Thanks for reporting back Derbyman
    Currently wearing: L'Oudh by Tauer

  20. #50

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by speckmann0706 View Post
    Do you feel this is a better release than Aramis Modern Leather, the reviews are all over the place on that one most say original Aramis is far superior.
    I like it much more than Modern Leather which I found very ordinary and uninspiring from the admittedly brief testing I gave it. Saying that I think a lot of people may feel the same about Tobacco Reserve. It just appeals to me in some weird nostalgic way like I've smelled it somewhere before back in time.

    Quote Originally Posted by NickZee View Post
    Thanks for reporting back Derbyman
    You're welcome. Your info re. Coumarin/Tonka really made me want to try it. Cheers!
    Last edited by Derbyman; 11th September 2018 at 08:01 PM.

  21. #51

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Sounds like I'm better off picking up backups of Havana.
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  22. #52
    Basenotes Junkie peter4ptv's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    I just received today, got it few days ago from Macys online the 3.7 oz bottle + 2 free gifts TF and Dior samples with VIP code discount and free shipping cost me total 64.37$
    Very nice niche quality, it was about time for something good from Aramis.
    Very potent, is been 8 hours on my forearms and I still get nice aura around me from 4 sprays, I think 2 sprays will work perfect.
    I like the tobacco oak mos fragrance combination, I bit tired of tobacco and patchouli, nice creamy tobacco dry down with just the perfect sweetness.
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  23. #53
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by manicboy View Post
    Sounds like I'm better off picking up backups of Havana.
    I just bought another bottle today. $17 for one of the best intense tobacco experiences going around.
    Currently wearing: L'Oudh by Tauer

  24. #54
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Tried it today. Unfortunately the tobacco here is same as Tom Ford Tobacco Vanilla and 18.21 - cloying and meh. I guess it is more tonka and less tobacco.
    The good news is that the intensity is muted and balanced by dry woods which does make it smell like dry tobacco leaf.
    I don't see much similarities with Aramis classic.
    All in all not bad and if you like this kind of tobacco it is better and cheaper that what is available.
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  25. #55

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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Tried it at Macy's yesterday. On paper only. The impression is that of a dry, hay tobacco. Today the paperstrip has more of a sweetish tonka (but not particularly sweet), which is still nice. I'll want to try on skin, but so far, simple and good, certainly better than most recent flankers.

    cacio

  26. #56
    Basenotes Junkie peter4ptv's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Tried it today. Unfortunately the tobacco here is same as Tom Ford Tobacco Vanilla and 18.21 - cloying and meh. I guess it is more tonka and less tobacco.
    The good news is that the intensity is muted and balanced by dry woods which does make it smell like dry tobacco leaf.
    I don't see much similarities with Aramis classic.
    All in all not bad and if you like this kind of tobacco it is better and cheaper that what is available.
    I like original Aramis and I cannot stand tf tobacco vanilla very cloying for me also, I do not find any similarity at all to this two.
    The Tonka tobacco note is well balanced perfect sweetness with the oak moss and sage giving nice earthy woody dry down.
    Anything with Tonka is very cloying for me and I was a bit worried buying blind this one, but I am happy with it now.
    Very similar sweet tobacco smell like the one when you first walk in a cigar shop, even this one I think is more like a pipe tobacco.
    Now I have had it more than a few times, I am sure the most you need is no more than one spray it is extremely strong.
    The other day I spray it on paper and just a very little touch my fingers, just from that I was feeling the tobacco aura around me for hours.
    I just read on Fragrantica review that someone with 4 sprays cannot feel anything after half an hour I am not sure what he was testing but when I first received I did 4 sprays on my forearms and I was smelling it for a few days after few showers, I am glad I did not did 4 sprays closer to the nose was going to be deadly. For me Scent is around 6.5/7 out of 10 and projection, silage and longjivity is way way above 10.
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  27. #57
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyG View Post
    Which, quite frankly, is the most ridiculous and redundant thread on Basenotes. Even more so when you keep referring back to it in this fashion.
    Then you should let me know since I am the one responsible for the thread.
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  28. #58
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    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    I think that thread is a great idea. Prevents the cluttering we had especially on FFD.
    I do have a question:
    When folks (mostly hednic) posts new fragrances in that thread does BN automatically adds it to Database? Curious cause he does a lot of work getting pics and details and would be shame if it was not used.
    Quote Originally Posted by furrypine View Post
    Then you should let me know since I am the one responsible for the thread.
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  29. #59

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    A very nice addition to the Aramis line. Sniffed it at Harrods and Selfridges last week. Surprise, it’s now widely available in the States. On my shopping list for this weekend.

  30. #60

    Default Re: New Fragrance: Aramis Tobacco Reserve

    Now in wide release, I sampled Aramis Tobacco Reserve at Harrods, then again at Selfridges, and bought a full bottle immediately upon return to the States. Be patient. A little harsh up front, but it quickly dries down to a spicy tobacco scent that’s vaguely reminiscent of the much costlier Creed Royal Oud. Definitely worth a quick sample spray on your next stroll through the mall. Answering my own question from earlier in this thread: only a very distant cousin to Lynx Tobacco & Amber — which remains a good scent, especially considering its bargain basement price, approximately one-tenth the price of Aramis Tobacco Reserve. Go ahead and buy both.

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