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  1. #1

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    Default Laudamiel's formula for Community

    I am not a perfumer myself, but was intrigued by the fact that perfumer Laudamiel posted the formula for his perfume Community on his website:
    https://www.thezoo.nyc/shop#!/COMMUN...017/category=0
    (there is a photo of the formula pages).

    The perfume itself is a twist of a sporty citrus marine, the twist being that the citrus is strange, and the marine part is luckily subdued. Judging from the smell, it seems the formula could be used as a base for a perfume of the genre, allowing for twists and substitutions of the top notes.

  2. #2
    Super Member mattmeleg's Avatar
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    Default Re: Laudamiel's formula for Community

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I am not a perfumer myself, but was intrigued by the fact that perfumer Laudamiel posted the formula for his perfume Community on his website:
    https://www.thezoo.nyc/shop#!/COMMUN...017/category=0
    (there is a photo of the formula pages).

    The perfume itself is a twist of a sporty citrus marine, the twist being that the citrus is strange, and the marine part is luckily subdued. Judging from the smell, it seems the formula could be used as a base for a perfume of the genre, allowing for twists and substitutions of the top notes.
    Thanks,
    He has nice stuff! Very smooth formulas indeed.
    But I find them mellow, fairly modern, not radical...still, he is a billion times better than me,
    And I LOVE learning from copying, thinking about, memorizing and re-writing formulas.

    His volunteer formulas can almost be thought of as accords??? because they don't really have much huzzpuh to them...
    Still, they are a wonderful place to start your own formula with. And they teach one how to use modern musks and make very smooth combinations!

    Cheers
    Matt

  3. #3

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    Default Re: Laudamiel's formula for Community

    Indeed, I agree that Laudamiel seems to have the ability to take modern forms (marine, gourmand, woody-ambery), but make them better behaved and interesting.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Laudamiel's formula for Community

    Some of the good things to learn from his formula is 1. his quality control, .1 and .001 dilutions, 2. his delicate dosing, .1 .2 .4 .8, 3. usage of high impact materials that need these careful ways but add sparkle, 4. excellant high quality ingredients and decisions.

    I read somewhere this formula was meant to highlight financial aspects for European union so he could not use any bases like he normally would. Normal perfumes seem to be built on a lot of bases and bases that contain bases as a method to dose carefully and have incremental innovation.

    I've remade this perfume many times and never totally successfully as I don't have all of the items but I always learn a lot. He has obvious horizontal accords he was keeping in mind. The trick is to learn his dosing for some things and try them in your own creations, figure out why .8 instead of .4. He also has some subtle vertical accords and those are fun to play with as well. Once you have accords set up you can use them as bases and add them to other creations.

    Another thing to know about this perfumer is he known for tweaking his so/so drafts into amazing art when given the time spending I think he said he spends 50-75% of every day revising.

    Lots of great things to learn!

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Laudamiel's formula for Community

    Well, "delicate dosing" isn't a result of quality perfumery but of arithmetics. If three ingredients in an elaborate formula, say A, B, C, appear at the the ratios A : B @ 11 : 7 and B : C @ 17 : 13 then you will see only "delicate dosing" in your speed sheet once normalised.

  6. #6

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    Default Re: Laudamiel's formula for Community

    Quote Originally Posted by RSG View Post
    I read somewhere this formula was meant to highlight financial aspects for European union so he could not use any bases like he normally would.!
    I was browsing his formula, and indeed, I really like when he points out that some of the best materials come from places in the European Union, and yet the European Union/IFRA is shamefully restricting them. For instance: "The European Union is a great producer of some of the most refined lemon in the planet. New regulations would unduly impose a "fat free version of these". And he has a long lamentation about oakmoss.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Laudamiel's formula for Community

    The restrictions are supposed to protect people not EU.

  8. #8
    Super Member mattmeleg's Avatar
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    Default Re: Laudamiel's formula for Community

    Quote Originally Posted by RSG View Post
    Some of the good things to learn from his formula is 1. his quality control, .1 and .001 dilutions, 2. his delicate dosing, .1 .2 .4 .8, 3. usage of high impact materials that need these careful ways but add sparkle, 4. excellant high quality ingredients and decisions.

    I read somewhere this formula was meant to highlight financial aspects for European union so he could not use any bases like he normally would. Normal perfumes seem to be built on a lot of bases and bases that contain bases as a method to dose carefully and have incremental innovation.

    I've remade this perfume many times and never totally successfully as I don't have all of the items but I always learn a lot. He has obvious horizontal accords he was keeping in mind. The trick is to learn his dosing for some things and try them in your own creations, figure out why .8 instead of .4. He also has some subtle vertical accords and those are fun to play with as well. Once you have accords set up you can use them as bases and add them to other creations.

    Another thing to know about this perfumer is he known for tweaking his so/so drafts into amazing art when given the time spending I think he said he spends 50-75% of every day revising.

    Lots of great things to learn!
    Yes, I completely agree.
    Re-creating formulas over and over again is one of the best, if not the VERY best way of learning...
    At least for me now. At this current moment in my fascination with smellies.
    Matt

  9. #9

    Default Re: Laudamiel's formula for Community

    You can find the pdf version of the formula which is easier to read on his site along with a few other accords

    http://www.dreamair.mobi/fragrance-formulas

  10. #10

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    Default Re: Laudamiel's formula for Community

    Thanks for the link, much easier to read!
    cacio

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