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  1. #1

    Default Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    I've yet to try anything from Zoologist and was wondering a) what people thought of the house (gimmick or quality etc) and b) stand outs from the range?

    Reading some of the descriptions and notes I'd consider some of them to be a little hard to wear but I appreciate the notes never really convey a full feel for the fragrance itself.

  2. #2
    Basenotes Institution rynegne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    I can see why people might find the brand gimmicky, however, I don't think the fragrances themselves are. I really enjoy Rhinoceros, it's a nice birchy leather fragrance.
    MadHat Scents

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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Quote Originally Posted by FlashingBlade View Post
    what people thought of the house
    Personally not a fan.
    Last edited by hednic; 10th September 2018 at 08:36 PM.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Gimmicky but worthy of checking out. Sometimes gimmicky is necessary to break thru. Sometimes it just adds an element of fun. They certainly aren't the only niche fragrance being cute or interesting with their names (ie Imaginary Authors, for one). Don't pre-judge the fragrances by their animal names. Read reviews and notes on Fragrantica and elsewhere and try some. I like some (Camel, Beaver, Elephant) while others not so much (Bat, Rhino). Enjoy!

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Excellent house. First rate in all respects.

    Creativity is paramount, so there are no boring scents in this line. Some are just flat-out brilliant, and some don't work for me, although "interesting".

    People who think this brand is "gimmicky" probably don't know their ass from a hole in the ground as regards perfume anyway.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Zino Davidoff by Davidoff

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Well, I have everything they've ever released so I guess I voted with my dollars... In my opinion, it's just an amazing house on every level and I really admire what Victor has accomplished in such a short amount of time. The way I understand it, he was combining two of his favorite hobbies with the branding of Zoologist; before he became deeply involved in collecting fragrances he was collecting animal figurines so putting the two together was a natural fit- not a gimmick that was hatched in some board room.

    As far as the juice goes... well, everything they have released is of the utmost quality in terms of materials, construction, performance, etc. Whether or not an individual likes the end result is as subjective as any other house. Imo, some of the scents are stunningly beautiful while some are arresting and challenging. All are balanced and well-blended. Nothing coming out of there is by rote and the perfumers he has hired are all pretty renown for their creativity and technical excellence.

    Some of favorites are Elephant, Civet, T-Rex, Rhino and Macaque. Viva Zoologist!
    Currently wearing: Triad by Bortnikoff

  7. #7

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Sure some can view it as gimmicky, but I personally like a clear idea or a theme for perfume brands, too each his own. However, no one can reasonably deny that they have some great fragrances made by great perfumers. And a broad range so everyone can find something for themselves. My favourite are Rhinoceros, Bat, Hummingbird and Moth.
    My current favourites:
    Areej le Doré - Atlantic Ambergris
    Dusita - Issara
    Le Labo - Patchouli 24
    Maître Parfumeur et Gantier - Santal Noble
    PEKJI - Battaniye
    Slumberhouse - Jeke
    Tauer - L'Air du Desert Marocain
    Tauer - L'Eau
    Currently wearing: Patchouli 24 by Le Labo

  8. #8

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Not gimmicky at all, despite what one may think initially regarding the house's aesthetic. Their animal inspired fragrances and bottles are all very tastefully and well done.

    They're for the niche fans, of course, but I think there's something for everyone within their increasingly large catalog. Their scents are generally creative, slightly daring, but ultimately pleasant for the most part.

    Though I don't particularly wear anything from the house as my style doesn't always align, they're good for the niche industry and deserve to be thought of as a serious house.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    I liked Camel and Bat, but the line in general isn't my thing. I'd be interested in seeing what they could do maybe with an apex predators line.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    I smelled T-Rex today and beast isn't the word... it was a monster of an animalic opening. It's like a movie where all the main characters get killed in the intro and you spend the rest of the movie figuring out why. That's more what I was thinking as far as an aggressive scent apex predator line... but when push came to shove... I couldn't deal with it.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    What other perfume brand has introduced three pretty good fragrances so far this year - 2018 - Hyrax, Moth and Tyrannosaurus Rex!?? Zoologist is doing great work in my opinion. There are going to be preferences, but all of the fragrances I have tried consistently of good quality. Of course some I don't like - but on balance it is probably the better new fragrance brands there is. Bottles and artwork are great. Nice mix of artisanal perfumers who are doing the perfume work - some of the best new talent in perfumery! My preferences are: Nightingale, Rhinoceros, Macaque, Elephant, Moth, T-Rex and Camel.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzlepuff View Post
    What other perfume brand has introduced three pretty good fragrances so far this year - 2018 - Hyrax, Moth and Tyrannosaurus Rex!?? Zoologist is doing great work in my opinion. There are going to be preferences, but all of the fragrances I have tried consistently of good quality. Of course some I don't like - but on balance it is probably the better new fragrance brands there is. Bottles and artwork are great. Nice mix of artisanal perfumers who are doing the perfume work - some of the best new talent in perfumery! My preferences are: Nightingale, Rhinoceros, Macaque, Elephant, Moth, T-Rex and Camel.
    Agreed.

    Amazing what can be done when commercial calculations don't stomp all over the creative aspects, for a change.

    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Zino Davidoff by Davidoff

  13. #13

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Conceptual art doesn't equal gimmicky art.
    Zoologist is a conceptual driven brand, just as a vast majority of perfumes are conceptually driven - Mitsouko for example isn't a story to accompany the smell, it's a concept that the smell is a part of - Zoologist isn't worse off for unifying this series of concepts under a totalizing concept.
    Zoologist has a great variety of fragrances, and I can't imagine folks smelling through the line and actually thinking the quality and composition isn't there.
    Civet, Nightingale, Hummingbird, Beaver, and Bat are without a doubt masterpieces whose character is rarely seen or heard outside of the brand.
    God bless Victor and his lovely brand.
    I bought T-Rex blindly minutes after it was available to pre-order on luckyscent, as Antonio is one of the greatest perfumers alive today in my estimation, and Victor as a CD has been consistently amazing with the variety, quality, and thoughtful releases.
    I don't quite think it's fair to judge the brand just because Victor is exceptional at marketing. :P
    YT: Jess AndWesH

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    In my opinion, Zoologist Perfumes is one of the best niche brands around, with respect to creativity, quality, and value. I appreciate how Victor Wong curates the line while creating a platform for showcasing the work of talented indie perfumers (Shelley Waddington, Antonio Gardoni, Ellen Covey, Tomoo Inaba, et. al.). The compositions are sophisticated and seem to rely on the intelligent use of up to date aromachemicals and naturals. The concepts and execution are always interesting and unusual, and none of them seem to contain large, unmodified glugs of ambroxan, Iso E Super, Timbersilk, et. al. Some time ago, I rambled on (and on) about Rhinoceros here:

    http://fragrancedaily.com/warm-leatherette/

    I feel that Zoologist perfumers are allowed to design compositions that are not brutally “value engineered” down to lowest possible cost per kilo. The perfumes do not feel watered down, and they wear with the longevity and sillage of vintage perfumes.

    All that said, this vintage geek is still looking for the Zoologist composition that really feels like “me.” I have tested everything so far except Moth, Elephant, Hyrax, and T. Rex, and I have samples of the last two on their way. Civet comes pretty close.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    In my opinion, Zoologist Perfumes is one of the best niche brands around, with respect to creativity, quality, and value. I appreciate how Victor Wong curates the line while creating a platform for showcasing the work of talented indie perfumers (Shelley Waddington, Antonio Gardoni, Ellen Covey, Tomoo Inaba, et. al.). The compositions are sophisticated and seem to rely on the intelligent use of up to date aromachemicals and naturals. The concepts and execution are always interesting and unusual, and none of them seem to contain large, unmodified glugs of ambroxan, Iso E Super, Timbersilk, et. al. Some time ago, I rambled on (and on) about Rhinoceros here:

    http://fragrancedaily.com/warm-leatherette/

    I feel that Zoologist perfumers are allowed to design compositions that are not brutally “value engineered” down to lowest possible cost per kilo. The perfumes do not feel watered down, and they wear with the longevity and sillage of vintage perfumes.

    All that said, this vintage geek is still looking for the Zoologist composition that really feels like “me.” I have tested everything so far except Moth, Elephant, Hyrax, and T. Rex, and I have samples of the last two on their way. Civet comes pretty close.
    Well stated.

    I'm very much in the same boat, too. I admire the brand and what they're attempting to do, establishing their own little niche of creative quality in a sea of overpriced mediocrity. But I have yet to find something I'd want a full bottle of, something that speaks to me.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Zino Davidoff by Davidoff

  16. #16

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    From my sampling they make quality scents and it can be detected. I've sampled about half of them and while they weren't for me they are well crafted. I did like Camel and will revisit it sooner or later

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarce View Post
    I'm very much in the same boat, too. I admire the brand and what they're attempting to do, establishing their own little niche of creative quality in a sea of overpriced mediocrity. But I have yet to find something I'd want a full bottle of, something that speaks to me.
    Isn’t this the primary reason many of us have such oversized wardrobes? That endless search for personal holy grails. But I know where you’re coming from. I too am looking for my first Zoologist full bottle as I’ve come to appreciate their artistry and point of view. I fear I’m in danger of becoming a collector.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    I need that t rex, that bottle and presentation alone makes it a must have for me
    Currently wearing: Jardin d'Amalfi by Creed

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Quote Originally Posted by flmmkrz View Post
    I need that t rex, that bottle and presentation alone makes it a must have for me
    Wait ‘til you smell it! It’s bombastic fightin’ juice yet really well balanced and very interesting throughout it’s entire development. I love it.
    Currently wearing: Triad by Bortnikoff

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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    I've sampled the entire line and I'm of the opinion that Zoologist is doing a great job. I love their concept and the look of the bottles. I also think the perfumes are consistently interesting, although the only full bottle I have at this point is Rhinoceros. I have a sample of T-Rex on right now. The opening is extremely aggressive, and to me unpleasant. It has since toned down a bit into a strange smell. I read that the perfumer started off thinking about plastic dinosaur toys from his childhood as an inspiration and then scrapped that idea. However, from what I'm smelling I suspect that isn't entirely true. It smells to me like those toys smelled if they came to life. There's definitely an animalic aspect in there but also like that really hard plastic they used to make those toys with. There's also some cade in there which gives a slight suggestion of Jeke, which Is a perfume I much prefer to this one. I guess it's conceptually interesting, and I can respect it but I'm not finding it particularly appealing as a perfume, especially in its first 30 mins. Two Zoologists that I'm currently considering as maybe FBW for me are Camel and Moth. Camel appealed to me immediately, but Moth is growing on me. I also return to Civet every once in a while.

  21. #21

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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Quote Originally Posted by Oud Dude View Post
    Wait ‘til you smell it! It’s bombastic fightin’ juice yet really well balanced and very interesting throughout it’s entire development. I love it.
    T Rex is very nice. One spray - Two tops. Spray at least 30 minutes before you leave your house, otherwise you'll be knocking people down.

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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Quote Originally Posted by thebeck View Post
    T Rex is very nice. One spray - Two tops. Spray at least 30 minutes before you leave your house, otherwise you'll be knocking people down.
    I agree. T-Rex gets the “two sprays under the shirt only rule” if I’m leaving the house.
    Currently wearing: Triad by Bortnikoff

  23. #23

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    I like this line, and admire what they are releasing - very unique fragrances, all by different and talented perfumers. What I have tried so far (Bat, Hummingbird and Rhino) have been fun and refreshing, but ultimately not purchase-worthy. I find their catalog of scents a bit exhausting and wish they had released far less fragrances and focused on quality over quantity.
    Currently wearing: Oud Wood by Tom Ford

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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Only creation I've sampled is Civet and it was just this week. Out of the 15 samples I received it is on the top of the to buy list. The bottle size and price point is really nice for niche imho. Looks like everything they've made got a mention in this thread which makes me think I'm going to need to sample everything,happily.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Quote Originally Posted by tinfoilhat View Post
    Only creation I've sampled is Civet and it was just this week. Out of the 15 samples I received it is on the top of the to buy list. The bottle size and price point is really nice for niche imho. Looks like everything they've made got a mention in this thread which makes me think I'm going to need to sample everything ,happily.
    I agree, Civet is very good. I think some people have the mistaken idea that it's some kind of animalic monster though when it's anything but. What civet (civetone) there is in it is very subdued, but conceptually and what is produced is very strong. A ton of notes which seem to come and go throughout. First-rate execution by the perfumer Shelley Waddington, someone whose work I'm not familiar with. She also did Hummingbird.
    Most worn:

    Black Comme des Garçons, Borneo 1834 Serge Lutens, Patchouli Santa Maria Novella

    Currently wearing: Zino Davidoff by Davidoff

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Aventurier View Post
    I like this line, and admire what they are releasing - very unique fragrances, all by different and talented perfumers. What I have tried so far (Bat, Hummingbird and Rhino) have been fun and refreshing, but ultimately not purchase-worthy. I find their catalog of scents a bit exhausting and wish they had released far less fragrances and focused on quality over quantity.
    I am a big fan of Zoologist and own many of their scents. Love the pace of new releases at some three a year - always something to look forward to and at price points my wallet can survive. There are 14 scents plus 2 reformulations over about five years as I understand it. Hope you find the opportunity to try more than three of the product line. They aren't mainstream and it is possible none may be to your tastes. I would not be able to subscribe to the notion of Victor focusing on quantity over quality. His entire business model and product line speaks to the opposite. 2018 was a brilliant year with Moth, Hyrax, and T-Rex. Waiting impatiently for 2019 and Chameleon...

  27. #27

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    I got T-Rex from the lucky scent sample pack...It's probably the worst one of the bunch.
    Normally I don't like the fact that lucky scent doesn't send samples in spray vials but in dabber vials, but with this one, it actually makes a lot of sense.
    Just my personal opinion, but it smells like the back of my grandmother's car after she has dropped all of her friends off from Bingo.
    Just an incense and cigarette smoke bomb...
    Add some depends and fart notes to complete the aroma, lol, maybe some coffee and donut burps as well.
    Not something I would ever wear in a million years.
    I do think the house has some nice ideas and presentations though, but at the end of the day, I really don't care what the bottles or labels look like, I care about what the juice smells like...and this one in particular is pretty offensive to me :O

  28. #28

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    T-Rex really needs a little time. Yes, the first hour or so is very strong, and may be too much for some people, but it develops beautifully and calms down considerably.
    Antonio Gardoni creates great movement in his perfumes, and while I don't think this is as good as MEM or MAAI, it's certainly my favourite from Zoologist.
    Civet is great too,

  29. #29

    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Quote Originally Posted by MrPod View Post
    T-Rex really needs a little time. Yes, the first hour or so is very strong, and may be too much for some people, but it develops beautifully and calms down considerably.
    Antonio Gardoni creates great movement in his perfumes, and while I don't think this is as good as MEM or MAAI, it's certainly my favourite from Zoologist.
    Civet is great too,
    You know, I suppose it's better than the litany of watered down scents that go for hundreds of dollars yet barely last an hour (cough BY KILIAN cough cough) :P

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Zoologist - Thoughts and Comments

    Definitely worth a try.




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