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  1. #1

    Default Reference Fragrances for Odd Notes

    I was hoping we could start a thread seeking to understand notes that pervade and evade perfumery by way of referent perfumes.
    I think, for example it would be helpful to have one for Deer Musk, Civet, Castoreum, Gardenia, Hyrax, and Styrax and the like.
    I've been told, for example, that Serge Lutens MKK is a good reference for Deer Musk despite not actually having Deer Musk in it.
    I've also been told that between Dior's Leather Oud and Papillion's Salome Civet is easily discernible.
    Hyrax for example is found in Tropic of Capricorn by Olympic Orchids.
    Jardin de Borneo Gardenia is for sure the best Gardenia soliflore I've ever smelled.
    What do you all think?
    YT: Jess AndWesH

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Oct 2007
    Reside in McLean, Va., Manhattan NYC, Manuel Antonio Costa Rica & Búzios Brasil

    Default Re: Reference Fragrances for Odd Notes

    Panorama is good if you want a wasabi note in your fragrance.
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  3. #3
    Dependent Roky's Avatar
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    Jun 2015

    Default Re: Reference Fragrances for Odd Notes

    Eau d'Ikar by Sisley is one of the very few fragrances with a mastic note.

  4. #4
    Rogue Perfumery
    Manuel's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
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    Default Re: Reference Fragrances for Odd Notes

    Look to Comme Des Garcons for "dust on a light bulb" :-D
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  5. #5
    Super Member grayspoole's Avatar
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    Feb 2014

    Default Re: Reference Fragrances for Odd Notes

    While I think this is a great idea in principle, Shadowartisttxl, I think such a list will inevitably be a personal one, since our perception of individual notes can vary so widely, and the effect notes can change so much in relation to other notes in a composition. In other words, your reference gardenia may be Sultan Pasha’s Jardins de Borneo, which I enjoyed testing very much, but mine may be Dame Gardenia Soliflore, or perhaps I would single out the gardenia notes within the structure of my beloved vintage Miss Dior.

    That said, it’s always fun to discuss reference perfumes, so here are some of mine:

    Civet - Paco Rabane La Nuit (for women) or vintage Schiaparelli Shocking extrait
    Deer Musk: Areej Le Doré Siberian Musk
    Hyrax: Bogue Maai
    Castoreum: vintage Miss Balmain extrait
    Styrax: Cuir de Lancome

    And then there is the question of defining what is an "Odd" note. All the above notes are quite traditional for perfumery, I would say. Meanwhile, I was quite pleased that I could identify shiso leaf in Apoteker Tepe's Anabasis, which was a new one for me. I'll have to check out the wasabi in Panorama to round out the Japanese culinary theme.

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