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  1. #1

    Default What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I find the creative process of developing ideas for fragrances and subsequently formulating scents fascinating and thought I’d start a thread for us to share what kind of scents we are currently working on! It’s always interesting to see the creativity so many of you have.

    Currently, I’m working on several scents, all of which are works in progress:

    Marine fragrance - notes include: sea salt, marine notes, vetiver, bergamot, birch, mint, black pepper, cedar
    The thought behind this one is icy water on the high seas battering a wooden ship

    Woody incense fragrance - notes include: cedar, cardamom, sandalwood, incense, musk, tomato leaf, cypress, frangipani
    The thought behind this one is ancient Rome, cypress trees, greenery and flowers in the air, while incense burns inside an Imperial estate

    Woody gourmand fragrance - notes include: cedar, caramel, apple, chocolate, musk, woody notes
    The thought behind this one is carnival, theme park, fair

  2. #2

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Chypre fruity/marine fragrance - Salty ocean breeze, cabin by the sea, woody, rosy, resinous and fruity.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I've been working on a Hawthorn accord, that contains five proprietary molecules - plus common molecules, and lasts forever. I've never smelled Hawthorn flowers before, and there are some instances that people say they fairly stink, so this is a blind unsmelled slightly fantasy/best of what hawthorn can be accord. Joseph Colbourne in NYC says it's pretty good, and he knows Hawthorn blooms pretty well, so I'll take him at his word.

    The next unsmelled and slightly fantasy accord I'm working on is Cherry Blossom. I just started last night, so the first version isn't really even melded yet. And I should most likely smell it diluted, since it uses undiluted materials... I've smelled Cherry blossoms in person, at the San Francisco Japanese Garden, and admittedly, their scent profile and volume was quite minimal, even minuscule. I've been TRYING to get *some* Cherryblossom scent from Japanese stores, to have some idea of what they sell it as, but can't even find any to buy in Japanese enclaves I've been in, (LA and San Francisco). I had a LA friend travel to Tokyo for modelling, last week, but she was only there for a couple of days, and she didn't have time to look for any...

    But for a finished fragrance, I am trying to balance four seldom used notes, Plum, that Hawthorn base (above), myrrh, and peony. (Along with other filler and base notes and musks...)

  4. #4

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I've been working on a Hawthorn accord, that contains five proprietary molecules - plus common molecules, and lasts forever. I've never smelled Hawthorn flowers before, and there are some instances that people say they fairly stink, so this is a blind unsmelled slightly fantasy/best of what hawthorn can be accord. Joseph Colbourne in NYC syas it's pretty good, so I'll take him at his word.

    The next unsmelled and slightly fantasy accord I'm working on is Cherry Blossom. I just started last night, so the first version isn't really even melded yet. And I should most likely smell it diluted, since it uses undiluted materials... I've smelled Cherry blossoms in person, at the San Francisco Japanese Garden, and admittedly, their scent profile and volume was quite minimal, even minuscule. I've been TRYING to get *some* Cherryblossom scent from Japanese stores, to have some idea of what they sell it as, but can't even find any to buy in Japanese enclaves I've been in, (LA and San Francisco). I had a LA friend travel to Tokyo for modelling, last week, but she was only there for a couple of days, and she didn't have time to look for any...

    But for a finished fragrance, I am trying to balance four seldom used notes, Plum, that Hawthorn base (above), myrrh, and peony. (Along with other filler and base notes and musks...)
    Sounds very interesting! Good luck with the Hawthorn accord.

    I concur regarding cherry blossom... I have a Yoshino cherry tree in my front yard that I planted 10 years ago when my son was born and it’s beautiful when fully bloomed, yet extremely faint in odor and very fleeting. One day the tree was barren and almost overnight it was blooming with tiny, delicate white petals, and shortly thereafter they had all fallen to the ground. This is partly why I love them.
    Not fragrance related, but the National Cherry Blossom Festival in DC is really cool...all those cherry blossom trees in full bloom around the Tidal Basin is a sight to behold.

  5. #5

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Tried to upload a pic of the Yoshino cherry tree but BN isn’t cooperating.

  6. #6

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Working on a red wine accord, starting from a wine mash essential oil (yes, it exists). I haven't found a red wine note that I like in all the frags I've tried that contain it, so I figured I might as well try and do one myself. Also working on 6 different fragrances with very different concepts, to test my ability to make stuff that smells good. As for inspiration, 2 Are mythical beasts, one is an antique God, 3 are places.

  7. #7

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Currently working on a tobacco/leather accord. Styrax, tobacco absolute, ambroxan, kephalis, oakmooss, veramoss, castoreum, patchouli... I want it a little "cleaner" smelling than it is right now but am not sure how to get there from here. Also not sure what I want to blend it with once I'm happy with it. Haven't gotten that far in my brain/nose yet.

  8. #8

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I just completed two perfumes for my daughter's wedding that I began in the spring. A light simple "White Rose" and a green "Wood". Each Eau de Parfum takes advantage of Royal Hawaiian Sandalwood. The Rose also uses the elegant White Rose otto from Eden and R1 Musk. The wood contains Ambergris (3%) and Exaltolide as the musk.

    I really wanted to bottle them (200 in total) using a steel roller ball bottle to reduce the amount of sprayed perfume at the wedding, since each guest will receive one of the fragrances as a gift. I am very pleased with the outcome. I had some concern about roller balls until I saw how many perfume companies are doing sampler sets with roller ball vials. I was worried about evaporation, but I believe the lid is tight enough to contain any significant loss over time, and the amount of application is perfect.

    Both fragrance formulations met expectations and they improve with each day passing. I perhaps give you an idea of the response after the wedding is completed. I am curious how these very basic and simple formulation (no more than 20 ingredients in each) are received.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by julian35; 19th September 2018 at 09:45 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by julian35 View Post
    I just completed two perfumes for my daughters wedding that I started in the spring. A light simple "White Rose" and a green "Wood". Each Eau de Parfum takes advantage of Royal Hawaiian Sandalwood. The Rose also uses the elegant White Rose otto from Eden and R1 Musk. The wood contains 3% Ambergris and Exaltolide as the musk.
    Those look, and sound, awesome, Julian.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    This may sound odd, but...
    *I`m developing a fragrance without actually looking at the name of my materials.

    I have my materials laid out at 10% in dropper bottles.
    150 unnamed bottles. 150 mystery materials at 10% - 1%. These bottles, are however, numbered at the bottom. Each number corresponds to a materials list.
    (at the end of my creation process I will look at the bottles I use, and the materials list...only THEN will I know exactly what the accord is comprised of)


    I am making a perfume purely from instinct.
    I keep the names of the materials a mystery to myself....
    To keep my prejudices out of the way...as I construct accords.

    As I work, a perfume...a theme is beginning to take shape.
    I have also constructed an idea board, with collage and prints and photos.
    My room is COVERED in pictures!


    And at the moment I have accords of various woods (about 15 different wood materials)
    of fresh frankincense and animal musks accords
    rose and other florals


    I have not looked at the bottom of the bottles at all.
    I have NO IDEA what`s in my accords, I put my "mystery bottles" in small containers..and label it "accord1" accord 2 etc.

    I do not want my preconceived notions of what "should," go into my combinations -
    I do not want to stop myself from coming up with new, beautiful accords.

    Eventually a perfume will take place...
    Engaging ones self in these types of creative activities take a lot of time and experimentation.
    But in the end, I always come up with something original.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by mattmeleg View Post
    This may sound odd, but...
    *I`m developing a fragrance without actually looking at the name of my materials.

    I have my materials laid out at 10% in dropper bottles.
    150 unnamed bottles. 150 mystery materials at 10% - 1%. These bottles, are however, numbered at the bottom. Each number corresponds to a materials list.
    (at the end of my creation process I will look at the bottles I use, and the materials list...only THEN will I know exactly what the accord is comprised of)


    I am making a perfume purely from instinct.
    I keep the names of the materials a mystery to myself....
    To keep my prejudices out of the way...as I construct accords.

    As I work, a perfume...a theme is beginning to take shape.
    I have also constructed an idea board, with collage and prints and photos.
    My room is COVERED in pictures!


    And at the moment I have accords of various woods (about 15 different wood materials)
    of fresh frankincense and animal musks accords
    rose and other florals


    I have not looked at the bottom of the bottles at all.
    I have NO IDEA what`s in my accords, I put my "mystery bottles" in small containers..and label it "accord1" accord 2 etc.

    I do not want my preconceived notions of what "should," go into my combinations -
    I do not want to stop myself from coming up with new, beautiful accords.

    Eventually a perfume will take place...
    Engaging ones self in these types of creative activities take a lot of time and experimentation.
    But in the end, I always come up with something original.
    How do you avoid prejudice if you can identify the smell? Unless you're saying that you're unfamiliar with all the materials you own.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I'm working on a smell that conveys innocence, loyalty and comfort, without any overtly sweet, woody or musky materials. This is what I wrote in my original brief. The trouble with trying to convey emotion through smell is that you never really know when you've arrived. I keep saying to myself, I guess this is right. It's ticking the boxes but I know it's not quite there yet. It could take years. Like many of us I'm sure, I'm a perfectionist, and it's not worth doing unless it's fucking stellar.

    Also working on a cologne with a diffusive, soft, iris aspect. It's not a distinctive idea and I doubt the smell will be either, I guess I want to keep it classical in tone.

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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    PK said "...I'm working on is Cherry Blossom""
    Me too,inspired by "Sakura" of Dior/Demachy (many isopropoxyethyl salicylate, i suppose.. )
    and work for a tubereuse perfume centered on a fireco....

  14. #14

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by campfiresmell View Post
    How do you avoid prejudice if you can identify the smell? Unless you're saying that you're unfamiliar with all the materials you own.
    Yeah I agree it's a neat idea and all but I know what material I have to an 85% certainly without even looking, the only tough ones would be the soft ambers and various waxy materials I can barely differentiate from.

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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by campfiresmell View Post
    How do you avoid prejudice if you can identify the smell? Unless you're saying that you're unfamiliar with all the materials you own.
    You raise a very good point.

    I try my best to avoid pre-selecting materials in my accords (this is by no means a "perfect system,") by combining materials via chance.
    Example, I dip 3 scent strips into 3 mystery bottles.
    I place these scent strips on my little scent strip holders aka "roach clips," and allow them to dry for about 2 minuets.
    I then place these 3 materials underneath a 2 litre coke bottle that has had its bottom cut out...
    I lift the coke bottle lid, smell, and I write my observations about this mystery accord.

    At this point in the process my intention is NOT to come up with a finalized idea. Rather, just sketches.
    I try coming up with new words, and new ways of expressing my interpretation of this mystery accord.
    I make notes, draw pictures and think of as many associations as I can.

    As a game with myself,
    I also try and guess the materials I`ve selected... and sometimes I guess correct, sometimes incorrectly.

    All of these notes I keep in a journal book written in a language that is not exactly english.
    I`m coming up with a new language that unique to these accords.
    And no... I do not share this vocabulary with anyone.

    The above system is NOT perfect, not at all. And of course judgements have to be made as one proceeds along the road of selection.
    And I have not yet come up with a perfect scent vocabulary....

    But the above process is the best I can do to try to come up with new combinations.
    *Give it a try, you may enjoy it. You may not?

    The above creative process was inspired by my trips to Kyoto and the card and incense games I used to play with Miko-san,
    a geisha friend of mine. I lived in Japan for a decade. Kyoto, if you have not been there, is a cultural hotbed which has refined the art of understatement, subtlety and nuance.

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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by SharpLess View Post
    Yeah I agree it's a neat idea and all but I know what material I have to an 85% certainly without even looking, the only tough ones would be the soft ambers and various waxy materials I can barely differentiate from.
    You may be able to suspend clear definitions if you create accords without looking at the names on the bottles.
    In this manner, the accord is made up of SOMEWHAT mysterious materials, the larger, the more complex the accord - the more difficult it will be for one to actually guess what is
    exactly within an accord.

  17. #17

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    No by all means you do you that's an awesome idea, and yeah the more stuff you use obviously the more complex and perhaps confused you would be removing the bias of knowing what materials you would normally rely on thus creating a more sensual accord. I am just saying I only have a little less than 100 materials at the moment so if I tried it I wouldn't be removed from the bias, I know my current materials pretty well.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by SharpLess View Post
    No by all means you do you that's an awesome idea, and yeah the more stuff you use obviously the more complex and perhaps confused you would be removing the bias of knowing what materials you would normally rely on thus creating a more sensual accord. I am just saying I only have a little less than 100 materials at the moment so if I tried it I wouldn't be removed from the bias, I know my current materials pretty well.

    100 materials - given that they are fairly different from each other.
    Will give you a near infinite number of combinations to experiment with.

    Creative types, like artists and scientists examine seemingly mundane objects and situations, objects and situations that most everyone else
    simply walk by without giving a second thought...But creative types, they look deeply into these familiar situations,

    Until the familiar becomes unfamiliar.
    Take the familiar, and make it unfamiliar - this is what I call "unstuck-ness," its a state of mind, play.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by SharpLess View Post
    No by all means you do you that's an awesome idea, and yeah the more stuff you use obviously the more complex and perhaps confused you would be removing the bias of knowing what materials you would normally rely on thus creating a more sensual accord. I am just saying I only have a little less than 100 materials at the moment so if I tried it I wouldn't be removed from the bias, I know my current materials pretty well.
    I believe I concentrate tremendously on the process because I have zero intention of creating finished perfumes...
    let alone becoming a professional perfumer.

    In fact, I would`t even know when a perfume becomes "finished."
    Some simple essential oils, or synthetic materials smell more like a complex perfume than some commercial perfumes.

    Unless the objective is very clear, for example to create a VERY hyperrealistic scent - and actually achieving that particular goal...
    To me its all subjective. And a lot of what people consider "good," perfume is merely fashion. Marketing. Culture.
    There are market trends, and they express themselves in formulas, in patterns... but again, the process more than any finished result - matters most to me.

  20. #20

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by mattmeleg View Post
    I believe I concentrate tremendously on the process because I have zero intention of creating finished perfumes...
    let alone becoming a professional perfumer.

    In fact, I would`t even know when a perfume becomes "finished."
    Some simple essential oils, or synthetic materials smell more like a complex perfume than some commercial perfumes.

    Unless the objective is very clear, for example to create a VERY hyperrealistic scent - and actually achieving that particular goal...
    To me its all subjective. And a lot of what people consider "good," perfume is merely fashion. Marketing. Culture.
    There are market trends, and they express themselves in formulas, in patterns... but again, the process more than any finished result - matters most to me.
    A perfume is never finished, there is no rule or law of nature stating a blend of aroma chemicals have reached superior state, maybe with quantum computers could we even begin to calculate such things, even then I doubt there is a right or wrong answer. However, when I make my perfume I am already thinking about the next material I am going to try before I even reach for something, it's already in my head. Once I don't have any more of the pre-conceived notions that means I am either out of materials to add or satisfied with the blend. But you are certainly getting the gears turning in my head to try new things, perhaps blindfolded perfuming (dangerous and risky) but sense of smell can be boosted dramatically that way. Craziness

  21. #21
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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I also have stacks of playing cards with all my materials written on them. One single card, one single material. I bring these work, on the bus or train at morning commute.

    I construct accords using my material cards...
    I don't get to smell them, I just build them in my head.

    So I to recap,
    I build accords without knowing which materials are in them, purely from my sense of smell.

    I also build accords with material cards....cards that force me to use my imagination. Purely from scent memory, without smell.

    This is a 2 pronged effort,
    One pure scent, one purely from memory

    Both are vehicles as a means to learning more about my materials.

  22. #22
    Super Member Godmu's Avatar
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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I'm working on:

    1/ something (loosely) based on
    Gucci Pour Homme I and Gucci Pour Homme II,
    2 of my favorite perfumes.
    Not a recreation, merely an impression

    2/ a frankincense "overloaded" juice

    3/ a funeral scent
    not the evaluation of decay, but the procession to the graveyard, and the gathering afterwards
    'Today I'm a star. What will I be tomorrow? A black hole?'
    — Woody Allen

  23. #23

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by Godmu View Post
    a funeral scent
    not the evaluation of decay, but the procession to the graveyard, and the gathering afterwards
    I'm intrigued. What's that going to consist of/smell like?

  24. #24
    Super Member Godmu's Avatar
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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    i'm going for a green airy opening (the early morning misty path in the outskirts, to the burial ground)
    accompanied by some white florals
    going to a somewhat earthy ending

    (still in early stage)
    'Today I'm a star. What will I be tomorrow? A black hole?'
    — Woody Allen

  25. #25

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by Godmu View Post
    going to a somewhat earthy ending
    Yes... aren't we all.

  26. #26
    Super Member Godmu's Avatar
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    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by julian35 View Post
    yes... Aren't we all.
    lol
    'Today I'm a star. What will I be tomorrow? A black hole?'
    — Woody Allen

  27. #27

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    Quote Originally Posted by julian35 View Post
    I just completed two perfumes for my daughter's wedding that I began in the spring. A light simple "White Rose" and a green "Wood". Each Eau de Parfum takes advantage of Royal Hawaiian Sandalwood. The Rose also uses the elegant White Rose otto from Eden and R1 Musk. The wood contains Ambergris (3%) and Exaltolide as the musk.

    I really wanted to bottle them (200 in total) using a steel roller ball bottle to reduce the amount of sprayed perfume at the wedding, since each guest will receive one of the fragrances as a gift. I am very pleased with the outcome. I had some concern about roller balls until I saw how many perfume companies are doing sampler sets with roller ball vials. I was worried about evaporation, but I believe the lid is tight enough to contain any significant loss over time, and the amount of application is perfect.

    Both fragrance formulations met expectations and they improve with each day passing. I perhaps give you an idea of the response after the wedding is completed. I am curious how these very basic and simple formulation (no more than 20 ingredients in each) are received.
    love that!

  28. #28

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I'm currently working on about 10 fragrances, here and there, some with much more progress than others.

    My main focus right now is a "forest floor" perfume, damp, resinous, aromatic, and obviously woody. It's actually coming along really well, but I'm thinking of ways to increase sweetness a bit (coumarin, bicyclonolactone, florals, fruity notes) as it is bone dry right now, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. I've got raspberry ketone ~1.25%, I have in inventory Dulcinyl and a lot of pineapple ACs (wasn't what I was going for) and also some Berryflor.

    Notes are:
    sichuan pepper, bergamot, galbanum, "wet earth" (geosmin)
    black tea, geranium, saffron, iris, leather
    cedar, pine, incense, vetiver, patchouli, angelica, musk

    Also working on an incense/lily/musk (a la Passage d'Enfer) and just ordered some Olibanum Coeur that I hope fits the bill for a stronger incense than my 3 in the current accord (olibanum EO, Bois d'Encense, olibanum resinoid). I'm using Velvetone (dimethyl alpha ionone) at IFRA max to try and boost diffusion, along with musks (just received a sample of Musk R1 which I'm going to switch with Velvione). I'm using Vertofix, considering adding a touch of Cedramber to help boost it. Right now it is just kind of flat and needs something. I guess I could add a trace of Amber Xtreme and see what happens! I'm amazed at how strong/tenacious Lisylang is, just a trace is needed to give character from top to bottom along with other LOTV ACs.


    Putting the finishing touches on a rose/blackcurrant/ambergris, and a citrus/fruity/ozonic/musk/amber


  29. #29

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    icy wind, waiting for summer ocean and flower in a cozy cafe
    Opera Снимок_2018-09-21_213555_www.instagram.com.jpg

    christening - incense and baby smell
    Opera Снимок_2018-09-21_214558_yandex.fr.jpg

  30. #30

    Default Re: What fragrances are you working on at the moment and the thoughts behind them?

    I normally work on a number of different accords and perfumes. Accords often made from something I experienced like a "tropical forest at night in the rainy season" one I'm working on now with decaying spicy wood, green lush vegetation and wet soil, or something I have a need for like a cigar accord I wanted to use in a "cigar box" perfume for a (cigar aficionado) friend.
    The latest perfume was a bit of good luck really since I had a mango accord I already given up on but decided to have another go at. It turned out really nice and inspired to a Escada-like perfume that turned out pretty good too. It was all done in two or three days. Now just waiting for it to mature to see where it goes.




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